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5
Shop Projects
Each Built from One Sheet of Plywood!
Tool Tote - Sawhorse - Workbench - Wood Bin - Wall Cabinet
PLUS: 7 SHOP SECRETS
Working with Plywood
Dread the thought of moving, storing, or cutting a large
sheet of plywood? Learn a few of the techniques we
use to make working with plywood hassle free.
From
ShopNotes
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 1 of 10
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
SHOP PROJECT
Tool Tote
————————————————————————————————————
As much as I enjoy woodworking in
my shop, I find that I spend almost as
much time working on projects
around the house. And because that
usually involves carr ying tools to
where I’m working, it’s nice to have
something to carr y them in. That’s
where these tool totes come in. Each
tote is open on one side to make it
easy to load and unload your tools.
And a narrow cleat along the front
edge of the opening prevents small
items from falling out.
Not only does the tote hold an
armful of tools, but it’s just the
right height for sawing the end off
a board. In fact, you can make a pair
of them to use as mini-sawhorses. And
when you want to take a break, the
tote makes a great little stool.
The tool totes are so small that you
only need half a sheet of
3
/
4
" plywood
to build a pair of them (see cutting
diagram below). To build the tool
totes, start by cutting the
ends (A)
to
size as shown in Figure 1. The “feet”
can then be cut out on the ends using
a band saw or a jig saw.
After you’ve finished making the
end pieces, you can set them aside
while you cut out the
bottom (B)
,
back (C),
and
front cleat
(D)
of the tote. There’s
nothing out of the ordi-
nar y here — I simply cut
the pieces out according
to the cutting diagram.
Assembly –
The tool
totes are assembled with
yellow glue and screws. To
make sure ever ything
lined up accurately, I dr y
clamped all the pieces
together first and then
drilled the pilot holes for
the screws. Then I
removed the clamps, glued
the pieces together, and
added the screws. I started
by screwing the bottom
and back together and then adding
the front cleat.
The bottom/back assembly gets
sandwiched between the two end
pieces. Again, I used screws and glue
to attach the ends.
Top –
The last piece to add is the
top. The
top (E)
also doubles as the
“handle” for the tool tote (see photo
above). So after cutting this piece to
size, you’ll need to cut out an opening
in the center. I made this slot by
simply drilling a starter hole at each
end point of the opening and removing
the waste in between with a jig saw.
Then for a more comfortable grip, I
eased the edges by sanding them
lightly.
To attach the top, I used some
metal corner braces (see photo in
margin). These are just screwed to
the inside faces of the end pieces and
then to the underside of the top, as
you can see in Figure 1b.
{
Corner Braces.
These metal corner
braces provide a
quick and easy way
of securely attaching
the top of the tote.
1
FIGURE
a.
b.
From
ShopNotes
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 2 of 10
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
SHOP PROJECT
Folding Sawhorse
————————————
1
FIGURE
Sawhorses are a necessity in just
about any shop. But these sawhorses
are a little different in that they fold
up for storage. This makes it easy
to carr y them anywhere and they
don’t take up much room when they
aren’t being used. But don’t let the
folding design fool you — these saw-
horses are plenty sturdy for just
about any task.
Legs –
Before you start cutting
out the pieces for the sawhorses, it’s
a good idea to take a close look at
the cutting diagram at right. In order
to get all the pieces for two saw-
horses out of a single sheet of ply-
wood, you’ll need to do some careful
laying out before you start cutting.
And because of the shape of the legs,
you’ll need to cut these pieces out
to rough size with a jig saw and then
sand the edges smooth. Or you can
trim them with a router and a
straightedge guide.
Ends –
After you’ve cut the
legs
(A)
to size, you can start making the
ends. If you take a look at Figure 1,
you’ll see that each end is actually
made up of two separate pieces that
are hinged in the middle, as well as to
the legs. This is what allows the saw-
horse to fold up.
After cutting out all the
ends (B)
they can be attached to the legs with
piano hinges. (You’ll need to cut the
a.
{
Piano Hinge.
Also known as
“continuous” hinges,
piano hinges are
used to attach the
ends to the legs of
the sawhorse.
hinges to length first.) It’s a lot easier
to attach each half of the end to a
leg of the sawhorse first. Then the
two halves are connected with
another piano hinge.
Top –
The top of the sawhorse is
nothing more than a narrow, rectan-
gular piece of plywood. The
top (C)
rests on the legs of the sawhorse — it
isn’t permanently attached. But to help
lock the top in place, a couple of
cleats
(D)
are screwed directly to the under-
side of the top.
To use the sawhorse, simply open
it up by pulling the legs apart and
folding out the ends. Then set the top
in place so the cleats fit securely
between the legs.
From
ShopNotes
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 3 of 10
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
SHOP PROJECT
Cut-Off Bin
——————————————————
Dealing with short cut-off pieces of
lumber is a problem that just about
ever y woodworker has to face. No
matter how neat you tr y to stack the
cutoffs, it doesn’t take long for a
small pile to turn into a mountain.
And this makes it almost impossible
to sort through the cutoffs to find a
piece that you can use.
Which is exactly why you need a
storage bin like the one you see
here. It’s fairly small, so it doesn’t
take up much space. But it holds a
lot of cutoffs. And dividers inside the
bin allow you to sort the cutoffs,
making it easier to find that one
piece that you’re looking for.
Construction –
To build the cut-
off bin, start by cutting the
front (A)
,
back (B)
, and
bottom (C)
to size (see
the cutting diagram below). After cut-
ting out these pieces, you can glue
and screw them together. The bottom
is trapped between the front and back
to create a U-shaped assembly. But
when you’re doing this, make sure
that the ends of the pieces remain
flush.
Dividers –
The next step is to add
the
dividers (D)
. These three pieces
are all identical. They are cut to fit in
between the front and back of the bin.
After cutting the pieces to size and
cutting the taper on the front edge of
each piece, the two end dividers can
be glued and screwed in place so that
they are flush with the ends of the
front, back, and bottom of the bin. The
center divider separates the space
inside the bin into two equal sections.
This divider is centered between the
two ends and then glued and screwed
in place.
Interior Dividers –
The last
pieces to make are the two interior
dividers (E). These pieces help to
separate long and short cutoffs by
dividing the bin into smaller com-
partments. The interior dividers are
centered between the front and the
back of the bin. After cutting them to
size, they’re attached with corner
braces (Figure 1a).
Most of the time, this cut-off bin
will probably just sit in a corner of
your shop. But you may want to move
it occasionally to clean behind it. The
only problem is that once it’s loaded
up with lumber, moving it is no simple
task. So to make things easier, I added
some casters to the bottom. (I use two
fixed casters and two swivel casters.)
As you can see in Figure 1b, the
casters are just screwed in place near
the corners.
1
FIGURE
a.
b.
{
Casters. To make
the cut-off bin easier
to move around, I
added casters to
the bottom.
From
ShopNotes
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 4 of 10
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
SHOP PROJECT
Workbench
———————————————————
{
Shelf Pins. The
adjustable shelf is
supported by
spoon-style shelf
pins like the ones
shown here.
This workbench is just the right size
for working on small projects. It can
be set against the back wall of the
garage without taking up too much
space. And it has some storage room
below the top for your tools. Even if
you already have a full-size workbench
in your shop, this bench makes a great
“backup.”
Joinery –
Like the other plywood
projects, there isn’t any complicated
joiner y on this bench. It’s put together
with screws and butt joints. But the
trick is to assemble ever ything in a
specific order and cut the parts to fit
as you go along.
I started by cutting out the
ends
(A)
and
back (B)
of the bench (Figure
1). Then I used a jig saw to cut away
the waste and create the “feet” on the
bottom of the two ends. I also drilled
some shelf pin holes in the right-hand
end piece.
After screwing the ends to the back,
you can cut the
fixed shelf (C)
to fit in
between the ends. Once you’ve posi-
tioned this piece between the ends,
you can screw it in place.
Top –
The
top (D)
is cut to size
and attached to the ends with corner
braces (Figure 1a). Then you can
cut the
divider (E)
to fit in between
the top and the fixed shelf. Before
attaching the divider, however, you’ll
want to drill some shelf pin holes to
match the ones in the end of the
bench. Then you can screw the
divider to the fixed shelf and attach
it to the top of the bench with a
couple of corner braces.
Finally, I cut an
adjustable shelf
(F)
to fit in the space between the
divider and the end of the bench.
1
FIGURE
a.
From
ShopNotes
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 5 of 10
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
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