danielle_original.pdf

Danielle

By: BurdaStyle

http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/danielle

We chose the crushed velvet for this creation to give it a fuller effect. A regular velvet or any other

plain fabric would give you a cleaner line. Experiment with different colors or a trim for the border

underneath the bust and end up with a completely different style.

Materials

velvet, crushed velvet

Step 1

1 Front Piece in Selvage 1x

2 Front Placket in Selvage 1x

3 Front Skirt Piece in Selvage 1x

4 Back Piece 2x

5 Back Placket 2x

6 Back Skirt Piece 2x

7 Sleeves 2x

8 Front Trimming in Selvage 1x

9 Back Trimming 2x

Sizes 2 to 12 (EU 34 to 44)

Fabric needed

Embroidered dupioni Silk, 54â“ (135 cm) wide

Sizes 34,36: 64â“ (160 cm),

Size 38: 72â“ (180 cm),

Sizes 40,42,44: 76â“ (190 cm) long

Pleated Organza Inset with velvet band, 1 1/2â“ (4 cm) wide

Sizes 34,36: 32â“ (80 cm),

Sizes 38, 40: 36â“ (90 cm),

Sizes 42,44: 40â“ (100 cm) long

Satin : 56â“ (140 cm) wide,

Sizes 34,36, 38: 52â“ (130 cm)

Sizes 40,42,44: 56â“ (140 cm) long

Chiffon: 56â“ (140 cm) wide; 4â“ (10 cm) long for all sizes

22â“ (55 cm) fusible bias tape, 36â“ (90 cm) wide

1 seam zip, 34â“ (60 cm) long, special sewing foot

Elastic band: Â¼â“ (7mm) wide, 28â“ (70 cm) long

Step 2

The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:

The patterns are printed out with a thin frame. Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that they fit together (see

additional page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin

with the left lower sheet and then tape the frame lines together precisely.

Step 3

ADJUST PATTERN SIZES

Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers

and skirts according to the hip width. Change the pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate from the Burda-size chart. Cut out

the pattern according to your size.

Refer to our â“Adjust patterns for mixed sizesâ“ technique

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5â“ 6â“ (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces along the lines

marked “lengthen or shorten here”. This way the proper fit is maintained. Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line to the

same degree.

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines

To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.

To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Blend the side edges.

Step 4

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (â“ â“ â“ â“) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being the center of the pattern piece, but never a cut edge or seam. The piece

should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting

diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should

be placed on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and

the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown extending over the fold of the fabric in the cutting

diagram should be cut last from a single layer of fabric .

Step 5

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average:

1 5â”8" (4 cm) for hem, 5/8â“ (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the lines and signs of the

pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric. Instructions can be found in the packaging.

Sewing

While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are facing.

Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right side of the fabric using basting stitches.

Interfacing

All pieces that are depicted as grey areas on the copy paper should be cut as interfacing with the same grain

direction as the fabric pieces. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric pieces for which they

are needed.

Step 6

Darts

Fold the front piece, the back pieces and the back skirt pieces so that the dart lines meet, right sides facing.

Pin dart lines onto another and stitch, starting at the lower front and back piece edges (i.e. the upper skirt

edge) and ending at the tip. Tie thread ends. (a) Iron darts to the front middle and back middle.

Pleats

Fold the front skirt pieces at the middle pleating line, right sides facing. Pin pleating lines from above,

stopping at the pleating mark. Stitch. (b)

Fold skirt piece apart and lay pleats so that the pleat middle meets with the seam. Pin the pleats to the upper skirt piece edge. ©

Step 7

Attaching the Plackets

Pin the front placket right sides facing onto the front pieces (seam number 1), place the back plackets onto the back pieces (seam

number 3). Stitch. (a)

Pin the lower placket edges right sides facing onto the corresponding upper skirt pieces edges. Stitch. (b) Iron seam allowances into

the plackets and de-baste

Shoulder and Side Seams

Place back pieces onto front pieces, right sides facing, pin shoulder and side seams. Stitch. © Iron seam allowances apart and

de-baste.

Step 8

Seam Zip and Back Middle Seam

De-baste the seam allowances of the dress edges in the back. Mark slit end with small cuts (a)

Place opened zip onto the right side of the fabric of the back slit, facing up. Space between the zip band edge and the seam

allowances edge should be 5 mm. Pin the upper end of the zip to the edge of the seam allowance. The bottom end of the zip

overlaps at the marked end of the slit. Place sewing foot onto the zip so that the spiral in the notch lies to the right of the needle (b)

Stitch zip coming from above until you reach the marked end of the slit. Close zip. Place the other band of the zip onto the front slit

Open zip. Place the sewing foot onto the upper end of the zip so that the spiral in the notch lies to the left of the needle. (d)

Coming from above, stitch zip until you reach the marked end of the slit, then close zip. Place skirt pieces below the zip onto each

other, right sides facing, pin the left side seam coming from below until you reach the marked end of the slit, placing the lower end of

the zip loosely towards the seam allowance. Stitch seam. Trim seam allowance.

Step 9

Adding the Trimming to the Neckline

Place the back trimmings right sides facing onto the front trimming, pin shoulder and side seams. Stitch. (a)

Fold apart and iron seam allowances. De-baste the lower edge of the trimming. Pin trimming onto the neck

line, right sides facing. Seams and seam lines meet. Fold the back edges of the trimming to the outside,

about 5mm from the slit edges, pin to the neck lineâ“s edge. Stitch along the neck lineâ“s edge. Trim seam

allowances, cut at the rounded edges (b)

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