sukienka_ze_wstawka_w_talii_-_opis.pdf

PATTERN

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

1 Front piece 2x

2 Back piece 2x

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far

as necessary. Even out the side edges.

3 Front yoke 1x

4 Back yoke 2x

CUTTING

5 Front skirt panel 2x

6 Back skirt panel 2x

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut double,

with the fold line forming the centre line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting

diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

7 Sleeve 2x

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints :

The patterns are printed out on 30 sheets with a thin frame.

Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that

they fit together (see extra page with the overview of the

prints). Cut off the single sheets on the upper and right edge

along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower sheet and

then glue the parts in the frame lines together precisely.

Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table:

Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size,

trousers and skirts according to the hip width. Change the

patterns according to size (inches or cm) if necessary, to fit your

measurements if they deviate from the Burda-dimension table.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how

the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the

right side of the fabric. For double layers of fabric, the right

sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the left

side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram,

extending over the fold of the fabric, should be cut last from a

single layer of fabric.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on

an average:

5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and seams. Use BURDA carbon

paper to transfer all pattern lines and markings to the left side of

the fabric pieces. You will find instructions in the packet.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If you

are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size

at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". Thus the fit is

preserved. Extend all pattern pieces along the cutting lines for

the same length.

Lining

Cut the lining pieces 1 to 6. Cut the pieces 5 and 6 bias. See

pattern

Interlining

Cut lining according to drawing and press it onto

the left fabric side.

SEWING

When sewing the right fabric sides are

facing.

Transfer all lines on the pattern using a basting

stitch to the right fabric side.

DRESS

Seams at upper piece, shoulders and sides

Position the front piece on top of the back piece

right sides facing. Baste the shoulder seams (seam

1), The shoulder seam of the back needs to be

bunched up slightly to fit the front. Prevent pleats.

Baste the side seams (seam 2). Stitch seams. Press

allowances apart.

Neckline / piping

1) Baste the right side of the piping strap onto the

neckline; the strap is now positioned on the

allowance. At the end of the neckline allowance

(at the cross line), the piping strap has to be folded

in a bias way. Stitch the piping narrowly along the

piping strap, using a one sided edge-stitch-foot.

Front center seam

2) Position front pieces on top of each other, the

right sides facing; stitch the center seam and over

the piping, DO NOT stitch over the piping.

Secure thread ends. Press allowances apart.

Position the piping onto the neckline, fold

allowances inwards, baste (2a).

Double stitching of the front piece

3) Double stitch the front piece from * to *

twice and parallel using large stitches. Tighten the

under threads to the length of the front yoke.

Knot thread ends. Distribute the width equally.

Yoke / side seams

Position back yokes onto the front yokes the right

sides facing, baste side seams (seam 3) and stitch.

Press allowances apart.

Stitch the piping onto the top and bottom yoke

edge according to the text and drawing 1. The flat

straps are positioned onto the allowance. Apply

yoke onto the top and bottom edge, fold

allowance in towards the inside, baste.

Stitch yoke onto the front piece

4) Baste the yoke onto the bottom edge of the

front piece, the left yoke side facing the right front

piece side (seam 5). Side seams meet. Stitch the

yoke closely along the piping using a one-sided

edge stitching foot.

SKIRT / front center seam

Position front skirt panels with the right sides

facing, baste center seam and stitch. Trim

allowances, neaten altogether and press sideways.

Side seams

Position back skirt panels onto the front skirt

panels right sides facing, baste side seams (seam 4)

and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten altogether and

press inwards into the back skirt panels.

Stitch the yoke onto the upper skirt edge

Baste the yoke onto the upper skirt edge right

sides facing (seam 6); side seams meet. Stitch yoke

closely along the piping using a one-sided edge

stitching foot (see drawing 4).

Zipper

We were using a seam covered zipper that appears

as invisible on the right side.

5) Open zipper and pin it’s right side onto the

allowances of the inner (left fabric side) edge.

Start doing so from the upper neckline edge. The

zipper teeth have to be very exactly positioned

onto the marked slit edges. Stitch the zipper along

the edge of the fabric. Make sure to sew as close

to the zipper teeth as possible; using a special

zipper foot. Stitch the other part of the zipper

onto the other slit edge (5a). Stitch along the slit

edges from the top down to the slit signs (arrows).

Since the zipper teeth have the tendency to roll in,

the special zipper foot will keep them flat. It is an

advantage if the zipper is longer than the slit. If

you are done attaching the zipper, close it.

Back center seam

6) Position back pieces on top of each other right

sides facing, stitch the center seam, keeping as

close to the slit as possible. Slightly pull the

zipper. Secure thread ends. Neaten allowances

and press them apart.

Hem

7) Fold and press allowances. Stitch the folding

edge using a narrowly adjusted zig zag stitch. Trim

the allowances close to the stitches.

TIP: Make a test using a scrap of fabric. Use

machine darning thread. Test and vary the stitch

adjustment and thread tension.

LINING:

Stitch the lining dress pattern pieces together; the

same seam numbers of the pattern are meeting.

Important: Stitch the front center seam up to the

cross line. Secure seam ends. Stitch the yoke onto

the bottom fabric piece edge, right sides facing.

Trim allowances and press inwards into the yoke.

In the same way stitch the bottom yoke edge onto

the upper skirt edge.

8) Pull the lining onto the dress, left sides facing,

seams meet. Baste the lining onto the armpits.

Baste the lining along the neckline onto the yoke

straps and the zipper straps. Stitch the neckline on

the right dress side narrowly, using a one-sided

edge stitching foot. Also, enclose the lining.

9) Sew the lining by hand onto the zipper straps.

10) To support the bottom sleeve edge stitch

twice and parallel between ● and ● using a large

stitch. Space out the width evenly. Fold the sleeve

lengthwise, right side inside.

Stitch sleeve seams (seam 7). Trim allowances,

neaten altogether and press towards one side.

11) Fold and press the sleeve hem, fold again and

pin. Stitch the hem narrowly.

Apply sleeves

To support the sleeve rounding tighten the under

threads of the seams slightly.

12) Pin the sleeves onto the armhole right sides

facing. 4 points are essential for the fit of the

sweater when you attach the sleeves:

= The cross lines 8 of the top sleeve and the front

piece have to meet. The cross line of the bottom

sleeve has to meet the side seams. The cross line

of the sleeve rounding has to meet the shoulder

seam. The supporting width of the sleeve has to be

spaced out to prevent pleats. Baste and stitch the

sleeve from the inside of the sleeve. Trim

allowances, neaten altogether and press inwards

into the sleeve.

Neaten the bottom interfacing edge

according to the text and drawing 7.

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