Basic-Armouring-3of4.pdf

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Armour Manual Mark II zd
Chapter 12 — Arms
Your arms move into target range every time you attack someone! Armouring
them is therefore a good idea, especially if you favour two-handed weapons.
When making patterns for forearms be careful to allow room for wrist rotation;
a common problem is making them too long. Likewise with the upper arm allow
room for the biceps; your upper arm changes shape when you lex it—if not go
to the gym.
Splint Vanbrace
An early design for protecting the forearm.
1. Scale then cut the splints from steel.
2. Rivet splints onto two leather straps that both
keep the plates in place and hold them on
your arm.
3. Add buckles and wear.
Cuir Bouilli Forearm Guard
This design protects the forearm and part of the elbow.
1. Carve a block of wood into a former the shape of your padded
forearm.
2. Scale template to your arm then cut from a piece of thick
natural tan/tooling leather. Don’t make it too close itting or
you won’t be able to get your arm in it after hardening!
3. Soak leather in water until it becomes malleable then stretch
it around the wooden former. Hold in place with carpet
pins. If you want you can now make pretty patterns all over
it; look up carving in a leather working book!
4. Place into a warm oven and allow to dry slowly.
5. Remove from former. Either shave off area with pinholes,
use them for decorative stitching or to stitch a lining in
place. Drill holes for laces.
6. Cover with wax to waterproof.
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A RMS
Articulated Elbow
An articulated elbow will join the forearm and upper arm protection while allow-
ing the elbow to lex. When working out how to get articulations to work it is
easier to use a separate wing (one less bit to get in the way). Once the technique
is established the cop and wing can be made in one piece. After making a couple
of these you will get an eye for where the articulation points should be, and all
will be easy.
1. Size the elbow cop as shown then cut it out from
steel.
2. If cop and wing are one piece then shape the
wing part, see details later.
3. Mark the bend and centre working lines onto
the inside of the cop. Note that as the cop goes
further around the outside of the arm than
the inside, the bend line is not in the midway
between the ends.
4. Start dishing the cop around where the two
working lines meet.
5. Once a reasonable depression has been pro-
duced commence hammering further out so as
to curve the sides of the cop. Try to work evenly
and methodically so as to give a smooth inish.
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A RMS
6. Continue working, dishing the metal and bending by hand as neces-
sary until the correct shape to it your elbow is formed.
7. Planish the edges, and anywhere else that is a bit uneven, to give a
smooth inish.
8. Drill four articulation points. Note how they are at the same height
on both sides.
9. Cut two lames. If you cut them from cardboard irst you will be able
to adjust the size to it your cop with ease. You will also be able to see
how they articulate or where they might catch. Trying things out with
cardboard irst saves a lot of time. Once satisied with the size and
how they move transfer the design to steel.
10. For each lame:
a) Dish the lame to it the cop.
b) Mark the articulation points through the holes in the cop.
c) Check for movement; watching your marks through the holes in
the cop as you rotate the lame in and out.
d) Adjust until a smooth, non gaping movement is obtained.
e) Drill one hole, place a bolt through it, then recheck the second
hole. Once satisied drill the second and bolt in place.
11. Mate the cop with the upper and lower arm guards. Drill two holes
in each lame then articulate the arm pieces to the cop in the same
manner as you articulated the lames to the cops.
12. Once satisied with the articulation replace the bolts with rivets. Don’t
worry if you get a lame wrong irst time around; unbolt it throw it away
and try again! This way you
can ensure everything works
before you rivet on a lame that
won’t it the rest of your arm
or decides to gap. If using sep-
arate wings shape then rivet
in place. Depending on how
well your articulation works/
its you may need to rivet a
strap across the centre to hold
it in place.
Wings
These can be made in a variety of styles, two are shown in igure 12-1. Pattern A,
the twin circles, simply requires the centre of each circle to be dished inwards.
For pattern B, the oval, construct a former by making two cuts into a piece of
wood. Hammer the hashed area into a ‘V’ shaped grove thus formed. Forming a
‘V’ here will pull the two sides up a little; accentuate this shape slightly by ham-
mering on the inside. Finally hammer the dotted outside area slightly downwards
to produce the cross section shown.
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A RMS
Figure 12-1: Templates for Elbows
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A RMS
Hidden Elbow
This is simply a metal cop that can be worn
behind a shield or under clothing to protect
the elbow.
It is made in an identical fashion to the articulated one above and held in place
by a leather strap.
Floating Elbow Cop
This is an elbow protector that is laced to
the gamberson independently of the fore-
arm and upper arm protection.
1. Scale then cut the cop from steel
(yes it is basically a rectangle).
2. Dish the hashed area of cop to it
elbow; it needs to be dished more in
the centre than the edges.
3. Continue dishing until a curved cop
shape is formed. As you work the
outer edges will be forced out to
form wings . Accentuate this shape by
planishing them on a stake. Try to
get a crisp fold edge between the
dished part and the outer wings.
4. Roll the edges of the wings to
strengthen the cop.
5. Drill lacing holes, two sets in the
outer side and one in the inner.
6. Hold in place, on gamberson, with
three sets of points.
Splinted Upper and Lower Arm Guards.
These are made of leather reinforced with steel strips. The two pieces are held
together by an articulated elbow or pointed individually to the arm under a loat-
ing cop. They give good lightweight protection.
1. Scale patterns to it arm then cut from
heavy weight leather.
2. Work out attachment points for straps
and points. The straps should hold it
to your arm without restricting move-
ment; the upper part laces to your gam-
berson so the holes in it should line up
with your arming points.
3. Cut strips of steel for splints. Failing that
buy the metal in a strip then cut to size;
stainless steel strip, for example, is used
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