Chair - leather classic design Chair.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - amok10

Reserved

Seating

Oak, leather and classic design combine to make this the best seat in the house.

Of all woodworking's many facets, chair making is

especially demanding. Along with a facility for joinery and

finishing, a good chair maker must combine the skills of a

structural engineer and the sensitivity of an ergonomics

expert. Chairs not only stand on their own, they support us

and fit our bodies, as well.

Following the principles of Arts & Crafts furniture, our dining

chair features straightforward, yet elegant and functional

design. Mortise-and-tenon joinery and rectilinear

components simplify construction. And, by carefully

planning each step in the building process, you'll find that a

complete set of dining chairs isn't that much more difficult to

make than just one. Once you have a machine or tool set

up to cut a particular part, it's not hard to keep cutting.

Our chairs feature upholstered slip seats, so you have the

opportunity to coordinate the chairs with your decor. You

might choose a fabric for the seats, or go with leather as we

did. We had an upholsterer supply the seats for our chairs.

The chairs are constructed of 4/4 and 8/4 quartersawn

white oak. If you do not have access to a planer, have your

supplier surface the material to thicknesses of 13/16 in. and

1-3/4 in.

MATERIALS LIST--DINING CHAIR

Key No. Size and description

(use)

A 2 1-3/4 x 1-3/4 x 16-1/4'' oak

(front leg)

B 2 1-3/4 x 3-3/4 x 40-1/2'' oak

(rear leg)

C 1 1-3/4 x 3-3/16 x 15'' oak

(top rail)

D 1 1-3/4 x 2-1/2 x 15'' oak

(bottom rail)

E 1 13/16 x 3 x 17'' oak (top

front rail)

F 1 13/16 x 3 x 15'' oak (top

back rail)

G 1 13/16 x 1-3/4 x 17'' (lower

front rail)

1 13/16 x 1-3/4 x 15'' oak

(lower back rail)

2 13/16 x 3 x 16-1/4'' oak

(top side rail)

2 13/16 x 1-3/4 x 16-1/4''

(lower side rail)

6 3/8 x 1 x 7-3/4'' oak (side

slat)

L 5 3/8 x 1 x 15-3/8'' oak (back

slat)

M 4 13/16 x 1-1/2 x 3-5/8''

(corner block)

N 8 1-1/2'' No. 8 fh woodscrew

O 4 2-1/4'' No. 8 fh woodscrew

Misc.: Medium Fumed Oak aniline dye

(No. W1190) available from

Woodworker's Supply, 5604 Alameda

Place N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87113;

Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

(Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808

Meech Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105).

Making The Parts

Begin construction by ripping and crosscutting

stock to size for the front legs. Then, cut two 4 x

42-in. blanks for the rear legs. Make a cardboard

template for the rear legs and trace around it to

transfer the shape to each blank. Saw to the

waste side of the line with a band saw or sabre

saw, and use a sharp plane to trim each leg

square and to finished dimension (Photo 1).

ANGLED-TENON JIG, Illustration by

Eugene Thompson

Mark the mortise locations on all legs. To make

this job easier, clamp several legs together with

the ends held even and mark across them using a

straightedge or square as a guide. Install a 3/8-

in.-dia. spiral up-cutting bit in your router, and use

an edge guide to rout the mortises in the legs

(Photo 2). Square the rounded mortise ends with

a sharp chisel.

Cut blanks of 1-3/4-in.-thick stock for the curved

back rails. Before cutting their curved profiles, use

a table saw and dado blade to cut the tenons at

the ends of the pieces (Photo 3). Note that the

tenons are not centered across the thickness of

the blanks. Cut one side of all the tenons first,

then readjust the blade height to cut the other

side. It's best to cut the tenons about 1/32 in.

thicker than indicated, and then use a sharp

chisel to pare the surfaces smooth and bring the

tenons to finished dimension.

After sawing the rear leg shape, use a

sharp plane to remove saw marks and

trim the leg to exact size.

Make a cardboard template for the back-rail

shape and use it to transfer the shape to each

blank. Use a band saw to cut the inside curve of

each rail (Photo 4). Then, remove the saw marks

and smooth the curved shape with a spokeshave

(Photo 5). Go back to the band saw to cut the

outside curve and smooth that surface with either

a block plane or spokeshave. Don't cut the arched

profile of the top rails at this time.

Cut stock for the lower front and back rails to

finished dimension and use a dado blade in the

table saw to cut the tenons. Readjust the blade

height and hold the rails on edge to cut the top

and bottom shoulders at each rail end.

Mark the mortise locations in the chair

legs, and use a plunge router with an

edge guide to cut the mortises.

Next, cut stock to size for the side rails. Study the

drawing to be sure you understand the angled

tenons on these pieces. Label each rail with its

location in the chair to avoid confusion when it

comes time to cut the joints.

We built a jig to cut the angled tenons. To make

the jig, first attach a hardwood fence to a plywood

base, and then screw the assembly to your table

saw miter gauge. Glue up four pieces of 3/4-in.-

thick stock and band saw the stack into a ramp

with an angle of 4°. Screw the ramp to the

plywood base. To use the jig, hold a rail on the

ramp and push the jig past the dado blade. We

used a holddown clamp mounted on a tapered

hardwood block to hold the workpiece.

Use a table saw and dado blade to cut the

tenons in the blanks for the curved back

rails. These tenons are not centered.

Lay out the back-rail curve onto the edge

of each rail blank. Then, cut the inside

curve on the band saw.

Use a spokeshave to smooth the inside

curve of the back rail, and then cut and

smooth the outer curve.

Cut one surface of each tenon with the ramp

angled down toward the dado blade (Photo 6).

Then, secure the ramp in the opposite direction

and readjust the blade height for the opposite side

of each tenon (Photo 7). If you're using the

holddown clamp, you'll need to remount it. Then,

use the miter gauge without the jig to make the

angled cuts for the top and bottom shoulders of

the side rails (Photo 8). Cut strips for the side and

back slats. Crosscut the slats to finished length,

and set them aside.

To cut the angled tenons on the side rails,

support the stock in a table saw jig that

holds the work at a 4° angle.

Lay out the slat mortises in the side rails and in

the curved back rails. Mark the side-rail mortises

by clamping several rails together and marking

across the stack with a square. Mark the curved

rails individually.

Install a 5/16-in.-dia. bit in the drill press and bore

slightly overlapping holes to remove most of the

waste from the mortises in both the curved and

straight rails (Photo 9). Then, use a sharp chisel

to pare the walls and square the ends of the

mortises (Photo 10). Test a slat in each mortise--

the fit should be snug. Make another template for

the arched shape of the top back rail and use the

template to trace the shape onto the workpiece.

Use a sabre saw to cut the profile (Photo 11).

When cutting the opposite tenon faces on

the rails, reverse the ramp on the jig and

readjust the dado blade height.

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