How To Repair Faucets(Taps).pdf

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How to Repair Faucets
Faucets are sold in many different makes and models, but the common ones fall into just a
few types. You'll find only two basic kinds of faucets; washer-type (or compression) faucets
and washerless faucets.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Manufacturer's
instruction sheet
STEP 1
REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-
TYPE FAUCET
• Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or
composition washer that closes onto a metal
washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can
become hardened, worn or the seat wears,
causing the faucet to leak. You can close the
faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily,
but this increases the internal damage to the
faucet.
FIG. 1 - Compression faucet
• To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If
there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture,
turn off the water at that point. Otherwise,
turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in
the basement, utility room, or crawlspace.
Turn off the hot water supply at the water
heater.
• Take the faucet apart by removing the
handle (this may not be necessary on some
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FIG. 2 - To use a valve seat
dresser, place the tool in the valve
seat and turn untill the seat is
smooth.
older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head
screw, which usually is beneath a decorative
cap in the center of the handle. The cap
either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it
with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on
decorative faucet parts, pad them with
electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish.
And take special care with the plastic parts
found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or
pry the handle off its broached stem.
Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle,
exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the
stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will
thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have
difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from
the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh
abrasives or a file.
• Examine the stem. If the threads are badly
corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and
get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if
it's dirty.
FIG. 3 - T remove the valve seat,
insert a valve seat wrench into the
faucet body and turn
counterclockwise.
• Now look at the washer, which is located on
the lower end of the stem and held in place
by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed
flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this
should stop any dripping. Take the washer
with you to your dealer to ensure an exact
match in size and style. If the brass screw is
damaged, too, replace it with a new brass
screw.
• The washer seat is located inside the faucet
body. You probably can't determine if the
washer seat is causing the leak just by
looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent
washer replacement obviously has a
damaged seat. The seat should either be
refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-
dressing tool is not costly. Every home with
washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool
according to the manufacturer's directions,
placing it in the faucet along with the packing
nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is
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smooth, and blow out the chips.
• Some washer seats can be unthreaded and
replaced. Check the faucet body with a
flashlight to see if it has a square or
hexagonal hole through its center or is
slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is
replaceable. However, if the seat simply has
a round hole through its center and no slots,
it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with
a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need
a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a
combination of square and hex heads to fit
most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat
counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to
tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber
sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around
the threads of the seat before you install it to
make it easier to remove during future
repairs.
• It's important to install the correct type of
faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling
washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B).
To install washer style (C), file the shoulder
off the end of the stem, drill out the threads
of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against
the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer
closes with a straight-down, frictionless
action – this allows it to outlast fixed
washers.
• Following this seat and washer service, your
faucet should be like new. Put the parts back
together in the reverse order of taking them
apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or
silicone grease on the threads of the stem to
lubricate the faucet's action.
• If the faucet leaks around the stem rather
than from the spigot, install new packing.
You may want to install one of the newer
nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated
packings–their lubrication allows the faucet
handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of
this packing around the stem just beneath
the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete
wraps if you're applying string-type packing.
Some stems use O-rings, rather than
packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring
with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand
tighten the packing nut, then tighten it
another half-turn.
STEP 2 - REPAIRING A NOISY FAUCET
• A noisy washer-type faucet is usually caused by a loose seat washer. To stop the
noise, first turn off the water and take the faucet apart as described previously. If
the washer is loose, tighten it or replace it.
• After threading the stem back into the faucet body, try moving it up and down. If it
moves, the stem is worn and the entire faucet must be replaced.
• Some faucets are noisy due to poor design and construction. The only way to
solve this problem is to replace the faucet with a quality one.
STEP 3 - REPAIRING WASHER-TYPE BATH AND SHOWER
FAUCETS
• To take apart a bath/shower faucet for repair, first turn off the water. Then take
the faucet apart by removing its handle, escutcheon and packing nut. The
packing nut may be buried deeply in the wall, requiring a socket wrench for
removal.
• Your bath and shower faucets may have a renewable seat that can be smoothed
with a seat-dressing tool or removed and replaced using a seat wrench. For
replacing and repacking the washer, follow the same instructions provided for a
washer-type faucet. Some faucets may need a complete replacement of the
combination stem/seat unit.
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STEP 4 - WASHERLESS FAUCETS
• A leak in a washerless faucet usually indicates that the working parts need
replacing. Often, prepackaged repair kits are available. Kits may contain all the
necessary parts, or may include only the specific parts that need replacing.
Follow the instructions for installing the replacement parts. Washerless faucets
on tubs and showers are repaired in the same way as those on sink and
washbasins.
STEP 5 - DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS
• The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-type faucets. A
rubber diaphragm between the stem and seat creates a straight-down,
frictionless close. As with washer-type faucets, diaphragm faucets have two
handles.
• Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-type faucets. Instead
of a washer on the end of the stem, you'll find a swiveling disc. If the rubber
diaphragm doesn't come out with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.
• If the diaphragm didn't come out with the stem, use pliers to peel it from inside
the faucet and pull it out. Install a new diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then
replace the stem in the faucet.
• If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replace the stem's O-ring before
reinstalling the stem.
STEP 6
DISC-TYPE FAUCETS
• Disc faucets may have one or two handles.
The water is controlled by openings in the
two discs. When the discs are rotated to
align, the water flows; when the discs are
misaligned, the water shuts off. If the discs
wear, the worn discs cause the faucet to
leak. Simply turning the handles harder will
not stop the leak.
• To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet,
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