greenhouse-design-guide.pdf

P.O. Box 191

Olga, WA 98279

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Design & Installation Guide For:

C 1994 Sundance Supply

Greenhouses, Solariums, Pool Enclosures,

Covered Walkways, Patio Covers & Skylights

Covered with Multi-Wall Polycarbonate

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Table of Contents

Part One: Initial Considerations - Planning & Design

•Design Check List & Notes......................................................................................... i

•Introduction, Sizing, Style.......................................................................................... 1

•Typical Greenhouse Designs, Siting, Building Permits...................................... 2

•Foundation Design, Wood Framing....................................................................... 3

•Wood Frame Design for Multi-Wall Polycarbonate............................................ 4

•Large Span Wood Framing Systems........................................................................ 4a - 4b

•Diagonal Bracing.......................................................................................................... 4c

•Recommended Spans for Rafters............................................................................. 5

•Wood Frame Layout for Multi-Wall Polycarbonate............................................ 6

•Typical Framing Layout for Multi-Wall Polycarbonate Over Wood Frame.. 7

•Multi-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet Specification,

Multi-Wall Polycarbonate Trim Specification...................................................... 8

•Multi-Wall Polycarbonate Trim Installation Details.......................................... 9

•Angled Wall or Hip Roof, Roof Valley, Double Slope Rafter,

and Polycarbonate to Existing Roofing Details.................................................... 9a

•Fan, Shutter, Window, Door & Skylight Details................................................. 10

•Exhaust Fans, Shutters, Thermostats, Speed Controls, Shade Cloth.............. 11

•Misting and Heating Equipment............................................................................ 12

•Pool Enclosure Dehumidification & Heating System........................................ 13

Part Two: Construction & Installation

•Foundations, Framing Notes, Lean-To Greenhouse Framing....................... 14

•Lean-To Greenhouse Drawing for Multi-Wall Polycarbonate....................... 15

•Freestanding Greenhouse Framing...................................................................... 16

•Freestanding Greenhouse Drawing for Multi-Wall Polycarbonate............... 17

•Polycarbonate Storage, Cutting & Installation Guidelines.............................. 18

•Installation Tools..................................................................................................... 19

•Multi-Wall Polycarbonate, Trim and Flashing Installation........................... 20

•Exhaust Fans, Inlet Shutters, Storm Hoods........................................................ 24

•Shade Cloth, Misting & Heater Equipment........................................................ 25

Introduction: This manual is a general guide for builders, owner builders, growers

and designers. While special attention is given to greenhouse construction most of the

principles and details also apply to solariums, pool enclosures, covered walkways, etc.

Typically, a frame is fabricated from lumber and covered with double or triple-wall

polycarbonate sheet. Add an exhaust fan, inlet shutters, shade cloth, a heater and

misting equipment to complete a basic greenhouse.

Greenhouse &

Pool Enclosures

Sunrooms

Covered Walkways

Part One: Initial Considerations - Planning & Design

Sizing: A number of questions should be addressed when determining the size of your

greenhouse. What plant species will you grow? How much space is needed to grow

the amount you desire? Is the greenhouse just for growing or will it be used for

additional living space, as is the case with sunrooms? If the greenhouse is attached

and is providing solar space heating, how much heat would you like to gain? The

larger the greenhouse, the more heat is gained. Note that plants, soil and water in

attached greenhouses actually absorb the majority of the winter solar heat gain. To

gain sufficient heat to supplement the adjacent structure, a south facing sunroom is

best. These structures also do not use misting systems, making the air drier and more

suitable for transfer to the main living space. A final sizing note is to give yourself a

little extra square footage. People love their greenhouses and welcome the extra space.

Style: Decide whether you would like an attached or a freestanding structure.

South facing attached greenhouses are excellent passive solar collectors, providing

substantial heat for the greenhouse. The soil, plants and moisture absorb most of the

heat. Do not plan on moving hot air to the adjoining structure. Often this air is moist

and might adversely affect your home. This warm room addition will dramatically

reduce the heat loss on this side of your house, so there is actually a net gain. The solar

gain in a south facing sunroom will often be enough to heat the sunroom, with

additional heat transfer to the adjoining living space via doors, windows or a room-to-

room fan. On cool days with little sun, and during the hours of no sun, it is often best

to close off the greenhouse or sunroom from the house. This will help in maintaining

sufficient temperature levels. A gas or electric heater may be used to provide backup

heat for maintaining desired temperature levels inside your greenhouse or sunroom.

If you would like a greenhouse close to the garden, a freestanding design may be best.

Foundations can be very basic and permits are seldom required.

Swimming pool enclosures are becoming very popular. Polycarbonate is a low cost

and economical way to cover these large structures.

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Typical Greenhouse Designs

Conventional

Freestanding

Solar Style

Freestanding

Gambrel Roof

Freestanding

Conventional

Lean-To

Solar Slope

Lean-To

Double Slope

Lean-To

Single Slope

Lean-To

Siting: Position the greenhouse with the long wall facing true south. True south is

typically a number of degrees east or west of magnetic south. A compass indicates

magnetic south. For locations that are positioned along a imaginary line running from

Chicago, IL to Tallahassee, FL, magnetic south is true south. If your location is east of

this line, true south is west of magnetic south. For locations west of this line true south

is east of magnetic south. In Bangor, ME, true south is 20 degrees west of magnetic

south. In Vancouver, WA, true south is 20 degrees east of magnetic south.

As long as your greenhouse orientation is within 25 degrees of true south it will

function well as a solar collector. With this in mind, survey your site for the best

location. Considerations such as proximity to garden, garage, entrance to house,

electricity and water, may be as important to you as solar orientation. Look for a

balance between these concerns. Check for any obstructions that will cause shade as

the sun passes overhead. Deciduous trees will provide shade during the warm

months and let in the sun during cooler months, when leaves have fallen. When

tracking the sun's path keep in mind that the path is low in the winter and high in the

summer. Note: Refer to solar reference books should you wish to be more exacting

than these rule-of-thumb guidelines. Your local library, book store and lumber yard

will have helpful publications.

A level site with good drainage is important. Pick a site that will not flood during

heavy rains. Pick an area that you enjoy spending time in. People find a greenhouse to

be a place that is regularly visited.

Building Permits: It is best to call your local building department before you build.

Freestanding greenhouses usually do not require a permit. Attached models typically

require a permit, especially if there is access to the house. Generally these permits are

easy to obtain. The information the building department requests will help you make

certain your design is sound and inspectors can also be helpful.

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Foundation Design: The foundation design depends on greenhouse style, climate, site

situation (soil, slope, etc.), desired thermal efficiency, budget, available materials and

building codes. For freestanding greenhouses, the foundation can be as simple as

4"x4" ACQ pressure treated sill timbers fastened to steel stakes driven into the ground.

ACQ is a non-toxic pressure treated wood product using copper based preservative

with a high retention rate. Being biodegradable in soil, any leaching that occurs is safe

for plants and humans. Check with your local lumber yard or call (800) 421-8661 for

the nearest ACQ dealer. Another safe option is cypress, available in the southeast.

As the size of your greenhouse increases, a more substantial foundation is required. A

properly designed, concrete thickened edge slab is also a good solution. Attached

sunrooms are add-on living spaces that require a foundation similar to the one used

for the adjoining structure. Often a solid concrete wall extending below the frost line

and wrapped with foam insulation is used. See details below for examples of a few

simple designs. Refer to general construction books to further investigate foundations.

Low Tech Foundation Options

Polycarbonate Sheet

Frame

Concrete

Poured Into

Cavities and

Anchor Bolts

Every 2 ft o.c.

4"x4" ACQ

(non-toxic)

Pressure

Treated

Optional

6" x 12"

Gravel

Base

6x6 Timber

Foundation

Beam

Optional

Foam Board

Insulation

& Flashing

4"x6"

ACQ

Timber

6" Trench

6"Concrete

Pier 4'-8' O.C.

24" Steel Concrete

Form Stakes

24" O.C.

1/2" galv.

pipe

Concrete Block

Foundation

Cold Climate

Inexpensive Method

Easy & Inexpensive Method

Sturdier

Wood Framing: Lumber is an excellent framing material for structures covered with

multi-wall polycarbonate. Redwood, cedar and cypress are rot resistant. We highly

recommend sealing high moisture areas of the frame with McCloskey, marine grade

Man-O-War Spar Varnish. This commonly available finish will protect the moisture

prone areas, such as the top and bottom plate, and any area where the polycarbonate

sheet comes in contact with the wood frame. This decreases likelihood of wood rot

and eliminates wood discoloration. The smooth surface also provides a low friction

surface for the expanding & contracting polycarbonate to move on, decreasing possible

movement noise. Semi-gloss and gloss paint are high friction finishes and noise may

result. Stains may react adversely with the polycarbonate. Always apply spar varnish

as final finish layer. Apply one coat and let cure for 24 hours. Apply another coat and

allow 2-3 days curing time. This provides sufficient time for proper hardening and

eliminates the possibility of an adverse reaction with the polycarbonate. See pg. 7.

If using pressure treated select dry lumber. Prime and paint on one coat of high

quality paint before assembly. Let dry thoroughly, lightly sanding between coats.

Assemble and apply final coat. It is important to effectively seal the wood so that no

harmful chemicals leach out. White is highly reflective and best for greenhouse use.

Now place one coat of spar vanish on areas described above and let dry 2-3 days.

Select straight kiln dried lumber. If using cypress, you may use green lumber, because

shrinkage is far less than with other species. See p. 4 - 6 for rafter sizing and spacing.

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