Dowman, Keith. Power places in Tibet.pdf

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THE POWER-PLACES OF

CENTRAL TIBET:

Tbe Pilgrim's Gzlide

KEITH DOWMAN

Keith Dowman has spent che last twenty years in

lndia and Nepal. He has been educated in the theory

and practice of Tibetan Buddhism by eminent Lamas of

several Tibetan schools, and has translated several major

Tibetan texts into English. He now lives with his

family in Kathmandu, where he continues to explore

the Tibetan tradition and to interpret it for people in

the West.

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CONTENTS

Preface

Introduction

Notes on Pronunciation and Tibetan Names

Note on Cartography

Glossary of Geographical Terms and Key to Maps

1 The Holy City of Lhasa

2 The Caves of Drak Yerpa

3 North of Lhasa to Reteng

4 To Ganden and Beyond

5 The Drigung Mandala

6 Tolung: The Karmapa's Domain

7 The Highway from Lhasa to Chaksam Bridge

8 Below Lhasa to Simpo Ri

9 The South Bank of the Tsangpo

10 The Upper Dra~angand Drachi Valleys

11 Yarlung: The Heart of Tibet

12 Chongye and the Royal Tombs

13 Dorje Drak and the Caves of Drakyul

I4 Samye Chokor

15 The Valley of Yon

16 Sangri and The Woka Valley

17 Dakpo and Lhamo Latso

18 Across Tsang to the Nepal Border

Appendices

I

First published in 1988 by

Routledge & Kegan Paul Ltd.

11 New Fetter Lane, London EC4P 4EE

This special edition published 1996

in Zndia by

Timeless Books

An imprint of TBI Publishers ' Distributors

M-33. Connaught Place. New Delhi-I I0 001, Zndia

By arrangement with

Keith Dowman, British Council

P.O. Box 640. Karhmmdu

Nepal

Printed ai Radiant Printers. New Delhi-110 008

O Keith Dowman 1988

No part of this bmk may be reprodwed in

any form without permission Rom the publisher

except for the quotation of briefpassag~~

in criticism

The Supine Demoness

11

Guru Rimpoche's Cave Power-places

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vi / Contents

MAPS

111 Power-places wich Treasure Troves

IV The Lunie Temples

V Sorne Principal Kadampa Gompas

V1 The Original Kagyu Gompas

Notes to. the Text

Glossary of Tibetan Terms

Visual Glossary of Buddhas

Seiected Bibliography

I

Index if Place-Names

Index of Lamas and Schools

II

Index of Deities wich Tibetan Transliteration

111

1 Position of the Autonomous Region of Tibet

2 The Valleys of Central Tibet

3 The City of Lhasa

4 The Yerpa Valley

5 North of Lhasa: Penyul and Jang

6 The Kyichu Valley: Lhasa to Medro Kongkar

7 The Drigung Area

8 The Tolung Area

9 The Kyichu Valley Below Lhasa

10 The Tsangpo Valley: Gongkar to Drachi

1 I The Yarlung Valley

12 The Chongye Valley

1.3 The Valleys of Drakyul

14 The Samye Valley

15 The Yon Valley

16 Sangri, Woka and Dakpo

17 Eutern Tsang

Western Tsang

vii

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PREFACE

This Pilgrim's Guide is based upon Kbyentse's Guide to the Holy

Places of Central' Tibet. Jarnyang Kyentse Wangpo (1820-92), a

Khampa lama, made frequent, extended pilgrimages to Central

Tibet and wrote his guide at the end of a long life as a

contribution to the old and popular genre of Tibetan literature

called neyik, guides to pilgrirnage. Kyentse Rimpoche was no

ordinary larna. One of the greatest figures in the eastern Tibetan

eclectic renaissance of the last century, his scholarship and

wisdom combined to give his work the highest mark of authority

and integrity. His Guide was translated into English-and partially

annotated by the notable Italian scholar Alfonsa Ferrari, who

never visited the East and who died before she could complete her

work. The annotation was completed by another Italian scholar,

Luciano Petech. His contribution was augmented by Hugh

Richardson, the last British Resident in Lhasa. Richardson's

clear, concise additions to the notes, detailing observations

compiled during his wide travels in Central Tibet over several

years, are of vital importance for information on the pre-1959

state of various monasteries. For their annotation, the Italian

scholars relied heavily on the accounts of their rnaster, Giuseppe

Tucci, derived from his short journey to Central Tibet in 1948.

Khyentsels Guirie Covers Central, Southern and Western Tibet.

The scope of this Pilgrim's Guide is lirnited to Central Tibet, the

old province of U, which includes the Kyichu Valley

System and the reaches of the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra) in its

Passage from Chaksam to Kongpo. Lhasa is the centre of the

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