Woodsmith #131 2000 October.pdf

Router Table • Box Joint Storage Chest • Old-Fashioned Clock

EDITOR'S

COLUMN

, ___,.il_!W

No. 131

October, 2000

SAWDUST

Publisher

Editor

Associate Editors

Donald B. Peschke

Terry J. Strohman

Jon Garbison

VincentAncona

Joel A Hess

Todd Lambirth

David Kreyling

Dirk Ver Steeg

Harlan V. Clark

Kara K. Blessing

I t'sfall":-the time ofyear when I get

Contributing Editor

Art Director

Senior Illustrators

rate cabinets. The upper cabinet can

be lifted off the lower section. This

way if you're working on a project

away from the shop, you can take the

upper part of the router table with

you, As an option, the lower part can

also be used as a tool stand.

There are also a few other details

about the router table that are worth

mentioning. For one thing the top fea-

tures a unique metal track that can be

adjusted to fit any miter gauge.

What's different about this miter

gauge slot is it also has a separate T-

track that allows you to quickly attach

a featherboard to the table.

The fence also has a couple of inter-

esting features. It has two sliding

faces so you can adjust the width of

the bit opening. And once again, a

metal T-track makes attaching a bit

guard or featherboard a snap.

Even if you don't plan on building

the router table in this issue, this T-

track is worth a look. It's a great way

to add a quick, adjustable mounting

system to any shop jig or accessory.

As you can probably tell, I'm very

excited about this new router table.

And I hope you are too.

a chance to startspending more time

in the shop. As usual, I'm always itch-

ing to get started on new projects. This

year, at the top of my list was a brand

new router table.

Now there's nothing wrong with

myoId router table. I've been using it

for a number of years, and it has

always seemed to get the job done.

But to be honest, I thought it could

use a few improvements.

At first, I considered buying a man-

ufactured router table. However I

couldn't find any single table that had

all the features I was looking for. So I

decided to build my own.

Taking a look at the front cover, it's

easy to see that this new router table

has a large, laminated worksurface

with a lift-out insert plate that pro-

vides a quick way to change bits. It

also features plenty of built-in storage

and an accurate, shop-built fence.

But what sets this router table

apart is something you can't see. I

guess you could say it has a "split per-

sonality." Let me explain.

The router table is designed so it

can be taken apart to make two sepa-

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Woodsmith

No. 131

A LOOK

INSIDE

_~ '_=~-""""-<:~~.~~~~_'1".At.--.

CONTENTS

Features

Router Table : 6

A two~part design makes this router table unique. The upper sec~

tion can be carried to a job site while the lower section has plenty

of room for storing your router accessories.

Router Table Fence 14

A good fence is a must~have for any router table. This one fea~

tures a postive~action clamping system as well as adjustable front

faces. And it's reinforced with aluminum angle and T~track.

Router Table page 6

Box Joint Storage Chest 20

With its rows of evenly~spaced box joints, this storage chest is sure

to please. The drawers are sized so you can mix and match them

in the case, creating your own distinctive look.

Box Joints 26

Learn the secrets to making perfect box joints. With nothing more

than a table saw, a dado blade, and a simple jig, you'll be turning

out professional~looking joints in no time.

Box Joint Clock 30

So you want to try making box joints, but you're not sure where

to start? This little clock just might be the perfect choice. It doesn't

require a huge investment of time or materials.

Departments

Tips & Techniques

Shop Notes

Sources

BoxJoint Clock

page 30

No. 131

Woodsrnith

FROM FELLOW

WOODWORKERS

Wine Rack Jig

I recently built a wine rack

similar to the one that you

featured along with the

kitchen work center in

issue No. 129. Since I don't

own a band saw, I had to

come up with a different

way of making the crescent-

shaped cutouts that hold

the wine bottles, see photo.

Instead I use a 3lf2!'-dia.

hole saw in my drill press

and a simple jig that

attaches to the drill press

table, see Fig. 1.

The jig helps me to line

up the workpiece for con-

sistent cuts. It's simply a

large plywood base and a

fence made from a short

piece of 2x4 stock. I glued

the fence to the base and

then clamped the jig to the

drill press table.

By centering the hole

saw lf2" from the edge of

the fence, I can make the

cutouts in the rack using a

portion of the hole saw.

Plus, the fence helps to

keep the drill bit aligned

while making the cut

Justdraw a centered line

through the kerf and the

base. Layout the work-

piece and hold it against

the fence to make the semi-

circles. Then clean the

semi-circles up with a sand-

ing drum ifneeded.

David Hendrick

Salina., Kansas

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ing tips, the solu-

tion is simple.

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every week.

www.woodsmith.com

3W-dia.

hole saw

Body Filler Sanding Block

Sanding the profiles on

wax paper over the cove

cove moldings can be

molding, pour in the body

tricky. The problem is

filler, and add a scrap of

holding the sandpaper to

wood

for

handle

the shape of the cove. To

shown at left. Once the

make this job easier, I

filler dries, I use the block

make a custom sanding

by attaching a piece of

block using leftover body

self-adhesive sandpaper to

filler from

my garage

the curved face.

workshop, see photo.

Mark Vanderpool

I simply lay a piece of

Wichita, Kansas

QUICK TIP

Lathe Window Shade

My lathe sits against the wall in my

garage. Whenever I turn really wet

wood or when finishing a turning

on the lathe, the wall behind the

lathe gets splattered. So I mounted

a roll-down window shade above

the lathe. I just pull down the shade

to protect the wall.

Hardware Magnet

I stuck a magnetic bar on the edge

of the extension wing of my table

saw. When I unscrew the auxiliary

fence from my miter gauge, or

remove hardware from a jig, I stick

the hardware to the magnet This

way, I know right where it is when

I need it again.

Dust Bag Zipper

Instead of having to remove the

bag from my dust collector every

time it gets full, I came up with

a quicker method. I simply sewed

a zipper into the bag. This way, I

can just unzip the bag and empty

it out while it's still connected to

the dust collector.

Ralph Spinney

Attleboro, Massachusetts

Craig Ruegsegger

Altoona., Iowa

Bobby HiU

Columbus, Georgia

Woodsmith

No. 131

Turned Spindle Repair

Recently while turning an

turned down on the spin-

intricate spindle, my chisel

dIe. A hole is drilled in

caught the work piece and

the center of the block to

tore out a chunk of wood.

match the diameter ofthe

Rather than discard the

area to be repaired.

ruined turning, I came up

The block is then cut

with a simple technique to

in half on a band saw (or

repair the damage.

split with a chisel)

and

To start with, I used a

glued in place around the

parting tool to turn down

spindle, as shown in Figs.

the damaged area to

2 and 2a. Once the glue

consistent

diameter,

dries, the spindle can be

shown in Figs. 1 and 1a.

re-turned correctly.

Next, select a block of

If you take the time to

wood with similar color

carefully match the grain

and grain as the spindle

of the block with the spin-

that's being repaired. The

dIe,

the

repair

will

length

the

block

hardly noticeable.

should match the width

David McNish

the

area

that

was

Pinehurst, North Carolina

Flush Cut Guard

I like to give my projects a

finished look by plugging

exposed screwheads. But

sometimes when I'm cut-

ting the plugs flush, I nick

the workpiece with my

back saw, leaving a scratch

that's hard to sand out

So I've come up with a

little trick to avoid this.

Now when trimming the

plugs,

in the guard slightly larg-

er than the size of the

dowel used for the plug.

Then I place the guard

over the workpiece and

saw off the plug flush

with the laminate.

After removing the

laminate, the plug will be

standing a little proud of

the surface. But this is

easy to fix. Just lightly

sand down the end of the

plug so it's flush with the

surface of your project,

as shown in Fig. 2.

Federico Val1enas

St. Huberth, Quebec

use

scrap

piece

of laminate

guard

protect

the

workpiece (Fig. 1).

The scrap piece isn't

very large. (Mine's 4" x

8".) I simply drill a hole

Sand plug

flush with

surface

~ To measure the

inside dimensions

of cabinets and

drawers, I simply

extend a telescop-

ing pointer (found

at most office sup-

ply stores) and

transfer the meas-

urements to a tape

measure or rule.

Paul Fertell

Longmont, Colorado

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No. 131

Woodsmith

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