Master of Cappuccino.pdf

COFFEE CULTURE

MASTER

of Cappuccino & Latte Macchiato

In the mix. To celebrate the launch of the Aeroccino, Nespresso serves you the

story of the perfect Cappuccino. Sweetened with tips from some of New York’s best

Baristas, selected by coffee-enthusiast Susie Theodorou.

BY SUSIE THEODOROU

PHOTOGRAPHER: ULRIKE HOLSTEN

The credit for inventing Cappuccino is

given to the Capuchin order of friars

– fact or myth, who knows? The friars’

long pointed cowls certainly resemble

a perfectly finished Cappuccino: heaps

of froth sitting on the nutty coloured

Espresso crema, the base of the froth

stained with a rich dark, coffee ring. It

could be true! All I can say is I’m glad

someone did invent it.

Espresso were one and the Espresso on

the bottom was filtered through a thick,

smooth texture with just the correct

amount of aroma coming through with

each mouthful.

Now, in hindsight, and as the experi-

enced Cappuccino taster that I am, I

have discovered that the big milky air

bubbles and froth let the coffee come

through in a watery state. If too much

steam (actually water from the steam)

is released into the milk, it will not

only scorch the milk but also make it

too watery, thus creating these large

air bubbles – not what one needs for

the perfect Cappuccino. On drinking a

Cappuccino with large air bubbles, you

will notice that the milk and coffee are

almost separate, with two taste sensa-

tions instead of one.

According to the Italians, Cappuccino is

a breakfast to mid-morning drink, with

12 noon as cut off time. That seems to

be one of the only limitations though,

seeing as there are a few interesting

Italian variations of the Cappuccino.

One may find a Cappuccino Chiaro – a

lighter in strength Cappuccino with less

Espresso than the traditional one-third

dose and two-thirds steamed frothed

milk. Cappuccino Scuro, meanwhile,

is a dark Cappuccino made with a

doppio (double Espresso) and one-

third steamed frothed milk; it’s not

a Macchiato, which only requires a

spoonful of dry foam. You will also find

a Caffè con panna, an Espresso with a

dollop of steamed frothed cream.

It’s quite amazing how one can really

taste the difference between a good and

a bad Cappuccino by the frothing of the

milk. Even after the tenth Cappuccino

in one day, I could tell from the first

sip whether it was going to be a good

or bad one. Tight air bubbles sat on the

surface of the cup, with a little of the

nutty coffee colour just rising to the

surface. On sipping, the milk, froth and

New Nespresso Aeroccino

Being compact in size, cordless and boasting

a stainless steel finish, the Aeroccino stands

out amongst other small kitchen appli-

ances. This convenient device for preparing

rich milk froth and hot milk features two

dedicated whisks for each requirement, one

of which is fixed under the lid. Simplicity

is key: Fix the appropriate whisk to the

inside of the jug, fill it with fresh cold milk

(ideally 8°C) up to the mark and press the

button. It’s ready as soon as the back-lit

button turns off! That’s it. Always ready, the

Aeroccino can be used at the same time as

making coffee: One Cappuccino cup or one

Latte Macchiato glass are both ready in 1

minute – always to the desired temperature

of between 75 – 85°C at the push of only

one button. You can prepare three cycles in

a row without waiting and, if need be, easily

change the whisks in-between. The heating

and/ or frothing process is started and stop-

ped by pressing the same button. This smart

device is very quiet in use and easily clea-

ned. We’ve saved the best for last: To order

an Aeroccino simply turn to the mail order

section on page 76.

www.nespresso.com

I selected a variety of cafés to test the

Cappuccinos, including four places that

I have sub-consciously returned to over

and over again during my 5-year stay in

New York City.

On this particular day, I chose a seat

which had a good clear view of the

Barista in action every time. The

Espresso was made first. Then cold milk

was sloshed into a metal pitcher and the

steaming spout immersed in the milk.

I could hear a loud frothing noise and

within seconds this rumble turned into

a dull hum and there was a turning of

the steam valve (thereby reducing the

level at which it entered the milk). After

that the pitcher was tilted or moved up

and down.

The temperature of the milk was felt

by touching the side of the pitcher. All

this took seconds. The spout was out of

the milk and wiped with a clean cloth.

The pitcher was given a quick tap or

two. Then the milk was immediately

poured on to the Espresso, the Barista’s

hand almost shaking out the milk and

froth from the pitcher making it land

gently, in pillows. It was the perfect

Cappuccino. There was no pouring of

milk first and then spooning fake froth

on top of the Espresso. Miguel Reiban

and Augusin Mota, both long serv-

ing Baristas at Terramare Café on the

Upper East-side, stated: “If you have

to spoon the foam on to a Cappuccino

it’s a sign of badly foamed milk.” They

were quick to add that you do have to

spoon foam on to a Macchiato or a dry

Cappuccino. Molly Pryor, a Barista for

5 years at Ino in the West Village, adds:

“If you need to spoon foam, it means

the milk is only foamed on top.”

milk a day.” None of the Baristas have

attended a coffee-making course; they

all learned their trade on the job from

the owners of these establishments,

who pride themselves on the coffee

they serve. However, they all agree that

one does need to be using an excellent

machine and only using good coffee

goes without saying! They all care for

their coffee machines with pride.

Coffee Recipes

Get creative with your Aeroccino and try out these delicious milky and

frothy coffee variations, exclusively developed by Susie Theodorou.

Finally, I also tasted skimmed and

soymilk Cappuccinos and enquired

about them. Skimmed milk can be

frothed well but will give a lighter tex-

tured froth. Molly Pryor sometimes

opts for a skimmed milk Cappuccino

simply because she desires that particu-

lar, lighter texture. Reiban and Mota,

from Terramare, said: “you just cannot

froth soymilk; its all air and no texture.”

The popularity of Espresso cuisine has

brought about many clever innova-

tions to help heat and froth milk at

home. I’m an enthusiastic Cappuccino

maker at home – switching between the

Aerolatte (the battery operated wand),

the Cafetière-style milk frother and the

steaming device on my coffee machine.

And now the Aeroccino heats and

froths as little or as much milk as you

may need. It is a simple steel pitcher

that resembles a large insulated cof-

fee mug and sits on an electrical base

for energy. It comes with two attach-

ments: a frothing whisk for heating and

frothing milk for Cappuccinos and a

non-frothing whisk just to heat milk for

Caffelattes. In contrast to some other

methods, the milk does not spill eve-

rywhere nor do foam and steam come

flying out the pitcher. It also cleans very

easily, no corners or burnt caramelised

milk anywhere. So you can now be a

real Barista in the comfort of your own

home by simply relying on the “auto-

matic sense” of the Aeroccino and your

tried and trusted Nespresso machine.

Good news indeed.

Vanilla Latte Macchiato

A good drink for mid-morning or bedtime

– decaffeinated may be called for here.

1 capsule of Ristretto or Decaffeinato Intenso

(20 ml, i.e. a half-filled Espresso cup), 100 ml

whole milk, 1/2 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

or seeds from 1/2 vanilla pod

Method: Make the Espresso. Put the milk and

vanilla seeds or paste into the Aeroccino fitted

with the frothing device. Cover and heat.

Pour the milk into a tall heatproof glass and

pour the Espresso down one side of the glass:

it will slowly slide down, staining the milk

with coffee. Serve.

Corretto Macchiato

“Corrected” with a dash of Amaretto, Sambuca

or Grappa then topped with a spoonful of

enriched froth – a perfect way to end dinner.

1 capsule of Roma or Decaffeinato Intenso

(40 ml), 30 ml light cream (single),

1/2 to 1 teaspoon liqueur

Method: Prepare the Espresso in a small

Espresso glass. Add the light cream to the

Aeroccino fitted with the frothing device.

Add the liqueur to the prepared Espresso and

top with a heaping spoonful of froth. Serve.

After Dinner Mocha Macchiato

As tasty as any dessert – just remember to

serve with a spoon to scoop out the delicious

melted chocolate in the cup!

15 g dark chocolate (min. 70% cocoa), 1

capsule of Livanto or Decaffeinato Intenso

(40 ml), 30 ml whole milk, grated chocolate

Method: Break the chocolate into 2-3 pieces and

place in an Espresso cup. Dispense the Espresso

directly over the chocolate. Froth the milk in

the Aeroccino fitted with the frothing device.

Drop a large spoonful of froth over the Espresso

then sprinkle with grated chocolate to serve.

“Listen to the rumble of the milk and

as it lowers in pitch, cut back on the

steam and tilt the pitcher at an angle

to the spout in the milk. This will send

the milk swirling in a circular motion,

evenly distributing the tiny bubbles in

it. Feel the side of the pitcher to make

sure the temperature is not too hot”,

explains Joe Rondinone, a Barista for

about 6 years, who makes coffees in

a small coffee bean store and café in

Soho. Baristas worth their weight in

gold use their senses rather than tem-

perature gauges. When asked about

which temperature the milk needs to be

frothed to, they all agree on around 60–

65 °C (140–150 °F). I have never seen

a single temperature gauge on any of

the pitchers of any of my four favourite

cafés. Reaz Islam, a Barista at Grace’s

food market, no longer thinks about

how to froth milk perfectly: “I can froth

milk with my eyes shut,” he claims.

“I steam and froth at least 24 litres of

Cuban-style Café con leche

A great Winter breakfast served with toast.

1 capsule of Vivalto (110 ml), 75 ml whole or

skimmed milk, 1-2 tablespoons evaporated

sweetened condensed milk

Method: Prepare the Vivalto in a Cappuccino

cup or tall thin mug. Add the milk and eva-

porated condensed milk to the Aeroccino

fitted with the heating device, close and heat.

Pour the milk over the coffee. Serve. No extra

sweetener is needed!

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