Woodsmith Magazine - Plans Now - Lingerie Dresser 2.pdf

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Plans NOW
www.plansnow.com
®
L INGERIE D RESSER P LAN
what I like about this seven- drawer
dresser. It’s built like it should be.
Raised-panel drawer fronts. Solid-wood top.
Frame and panel sides. Dovetail drawers.
And just enough cove molding to give it a
distinctive appearance.
Most important, the dresser seems to fit
comfortably in almost any setting. It’s a clas-
sic piece that doesn’t stand out in a room
like a piece of homemade furniture.
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page 1 of 10
©2005 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
H onest, solid construction. I guess that’s
351265298.132.png
SIDE FRAMES
I began building the dresser by assembling
the two side frames. These consist of three
rails (horizontal pieces), two stiles (vertical
pieces), and 1 / 4 " plywood panels.
Start work by cutting six rails from 4/4
stock ( 13 / 16 " actual thickness). Cut the top
rails (A) 3" wide, the middle rails (B) 2 3 / 4 ”
wide, and the bottom rails (C) 3 5 / 8 " wide. Then
cut all six rails to a common length of 10",
see Fig. 1.
CORNERS. The three rails on each side are
joined by two stiles to make the side frames.
However, before assembling these pieces, I
added another piece to the stiles. I glued the
front and back face frame pieces (stiles) to the
side frame stiles, refer to Fig. 5. This way
each corner is an L-shaped assembly that
consists of a side stile (D) and a front stile (E)
or back stile (F).
STILES. The side, front, and back stiles are
all cut from 4/4 stock. Cut the four side stiles
(D) to a width of 2 5 / 8 " and the four front and
back stiles (E and F) to a width of 1 3 / 4 ", see
Fig. 1. Then cut all eight pieces to a common
length of 44 7 / 8 ".
Note: The length of the stiles determines
the height of the dresser. This measurement
depends on the number and size of the draw-
ers. Since I wanted to use a standard dove-
tail jig, I had to make the drawer height a
multiple of 7 / 8 ". (I chose 5 1 / 4 ".) Once all seven
drawers, rails, and slight gaps between each
drawer were added up, the length of the stiles
came to 44 7 / 8 ".
of the tenons matches the depth of the
grooves ( 1 / 2 ") and the thickness matches the
width of the grooves.
DADOES. Next, I switched over to work on
the front and back stiles (E and F). The first
step here is to lay out the position of eight 1 / 4 "-
wide dadoes, see Fig. 1. (These dadoes are
pre-cut to hold the frames that support the
drawers.)
The first dado is 7 / 8 " from the top end.
(Note: Mark the “TOP” of each piece so the
dadoes can be lined up later.) Then seven
more dadoes are laid out every 6 1 / 8 ". This
should all come out so there’s 1 1 / 8 " between
the top of the last dado and the bottom of
the stile.
After laying out the dadoes, raise the
dado blade 1 / 4 " above the table and set the
rip fence as a stop 7 / 8 " from the inside of the
blade, see Fig. 2. Now check that the blade
matches the layout line and cut the dado.
Then turn the workpiece end for end, check
that the blade matches the pencil line on
that end, and cut a dado.
After cutting the end dadoes on all four
pieces, move the fence 7" from the blade
and cut the second dado in each piece.
Repeat the process to cut the remaining
dadoes.
JOINERY
After all of the rails and stiles are cut to fin-
ished size, the joints that hold them togeth-
er can be cut.
GROOVE FOR PANELS. Start by cutting a
1 / 2 "-deep groove on the edges of the rails (A,
B, C) and the side stiles (D) to accept the
plywood panels, see Fig. 1. Center the groove
on the thickness of the workpiece.
As the grooves are cut, cut only the inside
edge of the top and bottom rails (A and C),
and the side stiles (D). Then cut the groove
on both edges of the middle rails (B).
Shop Note: The panels are made from 1 / 4 "
plywood. But most hardwood plywood actu-
ally measures less than 1 / 4 " thick. So cut the
grooves just wide enough to accept the actu-
al thickness of the plywood panels.
STUB TENONS. After cutting the grooves, I
cut stub tenons on the ends of all six rails to
fit into the grooves on the stiles. The length
FIGURE 1
10”
9”
NOTE: ALL
GROOVES FOR
PLYWOOD PANELS
” DEEP
FIGURE 2
USE RIP
FENCE AS
STOP
A
T OP RAIL (TWO PIECES)
!/2
”
!/2
”
&/ 8
”
E
!/2
!#/16
”
3”
A
FRONT/BACK
STILE
6”
9”
!%/16
THICKNESS
OF
PLYWOOD
B
3”
MIDDLE RAIL ( T WO PIECES)
G
!#/16
”
” DADO
BLADE,
” HIGH
TOP
PANEL
18”
6”
2”
#/4
15 ”
C
BOTT O M RAIL (TWO PIECES)
!#/16”
6”
LAY OUT DADOES
ON BOTH EDGES OF STILE
D
2”
#/4
B
THICKNESS
OF
PLYWOOD
3”
%/8
D
D
SIDE S TI LE (F O UR PIECES)
44 ”
6”
FIGURE 3
FRONT
STILE
RABBET/GROOVE
JOINT
F
SIDE
STILE
9”
!%/16
!#/16
”
A
!/4
”
TOP
RAIL
E
D
!/8”
6”
H
2”
%/8
BOTTOM
PANEL
E
F
FRONT
STILE
(TWO PIECES)
#/8
”
#/8
”
BACK
STILE
(TWO PIECES
6”
21 ”
!/4
”
!/4
”
&/ 8 ”
” x ”
DADO
CUT
TONGUE
TO FIT
GROOVE
!#/16
”
!/4
”
6”
1”
!/2”
”
PLYWOOD
PANEL
!/4
” DEEP
GROOVE
CENTERED
ON STOCK
” x ”
DADOES
3”
%/8
C
!/4
”
1”
!#/16
”
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page 2 of 8
©2005 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
!/8
!/4
!/4
!/8
!%/16
!/8
&/ 8
!/8
!/8
!/8
!/4 !/4
&/ 1 6
#/4
!/8
!/2
!/4 !/4
!/8
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CORNER JOINT. When all the dadoes are cut,
you can begin work on the corner joint that
holds the front and back stiles (E, F) to the side
stiles (D), see Fig. 3.
The first step is to cut a 1 / 4 "-wide by 3 / 8 "-
deep groove down the inside face of the front
and back stiles (E, F). (This groove is cut on
the face with the eight dadoes.) Position the
fence so the distance to the outside of the
blade equals the thickness of the side stile
(D), see Step 1 in Fig. 4.
A PROBLEM. Here’s where I ran into the first
design problem. If you went ahead and cut a
tongue on the edge of the side stile (D) to fit
into this groove, the eight dadoes would be
exposed. (You would see eight “holes” on the
sides of the dresser.)
To prevent this, I cut a rabbet the same
depth as the dadoes on the inside face of each
front and back stile (E, F). The side stile (D)
then fits into the rabbet and hides the dadoes,
see Fig. 3.
RABBET. To cut the rabbet, raise the dado
blade 5 / 8 " above the table. Then stand each front
and back stile on edge and trim a section off
the inside face, see Step 2 in Fig. 4. After this
cut is made, the dadoes should have disappeared
up to the groove.
BACK RABBET. Next, lower the dado blade to
1 / 2 " above the table and cut a rabbet on the back
stiles (F) for the 1 / 4 " plywood back. (Note the
position of this rabbet in Step 3.)
TONGUE. The last step is to make a tongue on
the side stiles (D) to fit the groove in the front
and back stiles (E, F). To make the cut, lay the
stile flat on the saw and raise the blade just
high enough to produce a tongue that fits into
the groove, see Step 4.
FIGURE 4
DISTANCE EQUALS
THICKNESS OF
STOCK ( ”)
TABLE
SAW
FENCE
2
ALIGN CUT
WITH DEPTH
OF DADO
!#/16
FRONT/
BACK
STILES
SET ” DADO
BLADE ”
HIGH
!/4
FRONT/
BACK
STILES
RAISE DADO
BLADE ”
#/8
HIGH %/8
E
F
E
F
3
DO NOT
MOVE FENCE
4
WIDTH OF
TONGUE
MATCHES
”
GROOVE
LENGTH OF
TONGUE MATCHES
DEPTH OF
GROOVE ON
FRONT/BACK
STILES
NOTE:
BACK
STILES
ONLY
LOWER DADO
BLADE TO
” HIGH
!/2
F
!/4
S IDE STIL E S
D
FIGURE 5
INSIDE CORNER MUST BE
SQUARE -- ADJUST CLAMP
PRESSURE IF NECESSARY
FRONT/BACK
STILE
CARPET TAPE A STRIP OF WOOD
ONTO EDGE TO PROTECT
GROOVE WHILE CLAMPING
G
SIDE
STILE
H
MAKE SURE
SIDE FRAME IS
FLAT FROM CORNER
TO CORNER
18” FROM TOP END OF STILE
TO TOP OF MIDDLE RAIL
ASSEMBLY
Once the tongues are cut to fit into the grooves,
dry-assemble the side frames to take mea-
surements for the plywood panels (G and H).
(Cut the panels so there is a 1 / 16 " clearance on
the height and width, see Fig. 1.)
Then the frames can be assembled. I did this
in two steps. First, I glued up the corner pieces.
STILE TO STILE. Start by gluing a side stile
(D) to a front stile (E) - making sure the eight
dadoes face in, see Fig. 5. Check the corner to
be sure it’s perfectly square.
PANELS, RAILS, AND CORNERS. After all four
corners are assembled, glue and clamp them
to the rails and panels to make a side frame,
see Fig. 5.
Shop Note: Before I actually glued up these
frames, I double-checked to make sure I had
two mirrored sides. Also, check to see that
the “TOP” label on all four stiles is actually
on the top.
Once everything is lined up, glue each side
assembly together checking that the pieces
lie flat against the pipe clamps and the ends
are flush.
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page 3 of 8
©2005 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
1
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MATERIALS
CUT TONGUES TO FIT DADOES
IN FRONT/BACK STILES
SUPPORT FRAMES
While the side frames were drying, I began
work on the drawer support frames.
FRONT/BACK RAILS. Start by cutting 16
front and back rails (I) from 4/4 stock to a
width of 1 1 / 2 " and length of 17 5 / 8 ", see Fig.
6. (When in place, this should yield an open-
ing of 15 3 / 4 ” between the face stiles.) After
the rails are trimmed to size, cut rabbets
on the front edge to create a tongue that fits
into the dadoes on the front and back stiles
(E, F), see Fig. 6.
ASSEMBLY. Once the rails fit in the
dadoes, assembly can begin. Lay one side
frame face down on a flat surface and glue
a rail into each top and bottom dado, see
Fig. 7. Then glue the other side frame to the
other end of the rails.
Shop Note: I placed a piece of squared-
up plywood temporarily inside each end to
hold the assembly square, see Fig. 7. After
the glue sets, add the remaining rails. If
the side frames are bowed outward, use
pipe clamps to pull the sides tight to the
ends of the rails.
DRAWER GUIDES. Next, drawer guides
are mounted to the rails. These guides are
made from two pieces - a runner (J) and a
side guide (K), see Fig. 8.
To make these drawer guides, first cut
16 runners (J) from 4/4 stock to a width of
1 1 / 2 ". Then cut them to length to match the
distance between the front and back rails
on the cabinet (11" in my case), see Fig. 8.
Next, cut 16 side guides from 1 / 2 " stock.
To determine their width, measure from
the inside corner to the edge of the front
stile and add 1 / 32 ", see Detail. Then cut them
2 1 / 2 " longer than the runners (13 1 / 2 ").
Now screw a side guide to the top of a
runner to make a complete drawer guide
unit, see Fig. 8. The side guide hangs over
the runner by 1 1 / 4 " on each end so it can be
glued to the top of the front and back rails,
see Detail in Fig. 8.
FACING STRIPS
After all of the drawer guides are glued in
place, work can begin on the front facing
strips. There are two different sizes of fac-
ing strips, see Fig. 9. The top and bottom
strips (L) are wider (1 3 / 8 ") than the six mid-
dle strips (M) ( 13 / 16 "). But all of the strips are
made from 4/4 stock and cut to a rough
length of 16".
CUT THE GROOVES. After cutting to rough
length, cut a 1 / 4 " x 1 / 4 " groove on the back
face of each facing strip to fit onto the
tongue on the front rails (I), see Fig. 9. The
groove on the top and bottom strips (L) is
offset on the width as shown in Fig. 9. The
groove on the six middle strips (M) is cen-
tered on the thickness of the stock.
CUT TO LENGTH. After the grooves are
cut, all the facing strips can be cut to length
to fit between the front stiles and then
glued in place, see Fig. 9.
17 ”
%/8
1”
!/2
!/4
CENTER
TONGUE ON
THICKNESS
OF STOCK
I
”
E
FRONT/BACK
RAILS
(CUT 16 PIECES)
I
!#/16
”
I
!/4
”
CROSS SECTION
FIGURE 7
CASE MUST
BE SQUARE
END TO END --
CHECK WITH
FRAMING SQUARE
GLUE AND C-CLAMP
A RAIL TO EACH
CORNER DADO
FRONT/BACK
RAILS
TO KEEP FRAMES IN LINE WITH EACH
OTHER AND SQUARE, CUT PLYWOOD
SQUARES TO TEMPORARILY FIT
BETWEEN FRONT/BACK STILES
AND THE SAME LENGTH AS RAILS
FIGURE 8
DRAWER GUIDE UNIT
DETAIL
GLUE AND
C-CLAMP
DRAWER
GUIDE TO
FRONT/
BACK
RAILS
SIDE GUIDE
13 ”
K
CUT TO FIT,
SEE DETAIL
GUIDE
SHOULD
STICK PAST
EDGE OF
STILE ”
11”
#!/32
”
!/2
”
#8 x 1”
WOOD
SCREW
!/32
RUNNER
J
!#/16”
SCREW SIDE GUIDE TO
RUNNER WITH 1 ” HANGOVER
ON BOTH ENDS
!/4
!/2
CROSS SECTION
1”
FIGURE 9
NOTE: CUT GROOVES ON FACING STRIPS TO MATCH
TONGUES ON FRONT RAILS -- ON TOP/BOTTOM
STRIPS GROOVE IS OFFSET SO ONE EDGE IS
FLUSH WITH FACE SIDE OF RAIL
!#/16
”
TOP
FRONT RAIL
L
1”
I
TOP FACING STRIP
L
TYPICAL
MIDDLE RAIL
!#/16”
I
I
M
!#/16
”
M
MIDDLE FACING STRIP
BOTTOM
FRONT RAIL
!#/16”
I
GLUE AND
C-CLAMP TO
FRONT RAILS ONLY
L
1”
BOTTOM FACING
STRIP
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page 4 of 8
©2005 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
FIGURE 6
!/2
#/8
#/8
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CHAMFERS. Next, I routed stopped cham-
fers on the four corners. To stop the cham-
fers near the ends, clamp a stop block flush
with each end of the stile, see Fig. 10.
(Option: You can also rout a chamfer around
the inside of the frame by using a V-groove
bit and a guide attached to the base of the
router.)
FIGURE 10
ROUT A ” STOPPED
CHAMFER ON
ALL FOUR
CORNERS
#/8
OPTIONAL ”
CHAMFER,
SEE TEX #/16
KEEP BLOCK
FLUSH WITH
END OF CASE
2”
!/8
BASE
After routing the chamfers, work can begin
on the base. The base consists of a mitered
frame glued on top of a kickboard frame.
MOLDED FRAME. Start by cutting a frame
front (N) and two frame sides (O) from 4/4
stock to a width of 2 3 / 8 ", see Fig. 11. Then
rough cut the front to a length of 23" and
sides to a length of 18".
Before cutting the pieces to final length,
rout a bullnose edge on the pieces. First,
rout a 1 / 2 " round-over on the top edge, see
Step 1 in Fig. 11. Then, to rout the bottom
edge, switch to a 1 / 4 " round-over bit and
raise it 3 / 16 " above the table, see Step 2.
After the pieces are routed, miter the
front piece (N) on both ends so the length
is 2 1 / 4 " longer (from long point to long point)
than the width of the cabinet. (In my case
the frame front was 21 1 / 2 .") Miter each side
piece (O) on one end only and cut them 1 1 / 8 "
longer than the depth of the cabinet (16 1 / 4 ").
Next, glue the front miters together.
Hold them on a flat surface until the glue
sets.
KICKBOARD. After the three-sided frame
is glued, cut a kickboard front (P), back
(Q), and two sides (R) from 4/4 stock to a
width of 3 1 / 2 ", see Fig. 12. Then miter both
ends of the kickboard front (P) and back
(Q) so the length of each piece is 1 / 2 " short-
er than the bullnose frame (21").
Next, miter both ends of each kickboard
side (R) so the length is 1 / 4 " shorter than
the bullnose frame sides (16").
KERF AND SPLINE. To help keep the
miters aligned while clamping, cut a kerf in
each miter. Then rip a spline off the edge
of a piece of 4/4 stock to fit the kerf, see
Joint Detail in Fig. 12. Once the joints are
cut, glue the kickboard frame together
checking each corner for square.
ASSEMBLY. After the kickboard frame
dries, glue the three-sided bullnose frame
to the top of the kickboard frame, see Fig.
13. The bullnose frame is centered on the
front and flush with the back. (This leaves
a 1 / 4 " overhang on the front and sides.)
FILLER STRIP. One final step is to glue a
filler strip to the top of the kickboard back,
see Detail in Fig. 13. This strip creates a 1 / 4 "
rabbet for the cabinet back to fit into.
BASE TO CASE. To attach the base to the
case, drill shank holes through the top of the
molded frame. Next, turn the case upside
down, and position the base so it’s centered
across the front and flush with the back.
Then mark and drill the pilot holes, and
screw the base to the case, see Fig. 14.
2”
!/8
#/8
SET BIT
” DEEP
2”
!/2
CLAMP
STOP BLOCK
TO EACH END
FIGURE 11
MITERED FRAME
O
CHECK CORNERS
FOR SQUARE
FENCE
1
N
16 ”
!/4
21 ”
!/2
!/2
” ROUND
OVER BIT
2”
GLUE ONE CORNER AT
A TIME, HOLD TOGETHER
WITH HAND PRESSURE
UNTIL GLUE SETS
FENCE
2
ROUT
BULLNOSE
EDGE BEFORE
MITERING
!#/16
”
” ROUND OVER BIT
SET ” ABOVE TABLE
CROSS SECTION
#/16
FIGURE 12
KICKBOARD FRAME
JOINT DETAIL
ALL FOUR CORNERS
MITERED AND
SPLINED
BACK
R
!#/16
”
3”
!/2
SIDE
Q
!#/16
”
FRO NT
P
16”
!#/16
”
&/ 1 6
”
21”
!/4”
CUT SPLINE TO
FIT SAW KERF
ALL PIECES 4/4 STOCK
FIGURE 13
THIRD:
DRILL ” SHANK HOLES
FOR MOUNTING
TO CASE
SECOND: ADD FILLER STRIP TO TOP OF
KICKBOARD BACK
BACK CORNER DETAIL
BACKS OF BOTH
FRAMES ARE
FLUSH
#/16
&/ 8
”
(/16”
FIRST:
GLUE AND CLAMP
MOLDED FRAME TO
KICKBOARD FRAME
FILLER STRIP FORMS
A ” RABBET
FOR BACK PANEL
!/4
” OVERHANG ON
FRONT AND SIDES
FIGURE 14
DETAIL
CROSS
SECTION
CASE
FRAMING
&/ 8
”
KICKBOARD
SIDE
ATTACH WITH
#8 x 1 ”
Rh WOODSCREWS
!/2
BASE
FRAME
UNIT
KICKBOARD
FRONT
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page 5 of 8
©2005 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
#/8
!/4
!/4
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