Book Case - Classic.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - juan1p

Woodsmith

MAGAZINE

C LASSIC B OOKCASE

It’s what you don’t see that makes this project unique. Knock-down

hardware makes it easy to assemble and convenient to move.

I ’ve always wanted to build a large,

formal-looking bookcase. But I had

visions of wrestling it around my

shop when the time came to assemble

and finish it.

The design of this bookcase

changed all that. A simple, straightfor-

ward system breaks the project down

into manageable sized pieces that are

easy to handle.

To see what’s special about the

design, you need to look inside. Here

you’ll find a “knock-down” system using

bolts and nuts to hold things together.

Not something you’d expect on a classic

piece of furniture.

What makes this system work are

the individual components used to build

the bookcase. The base, sides, and top

are all built as separate units. Once com-

pleted you just bolt them together.

And it’s just as easy to take it apart.

You won’t need to hire a moving crew if

you get tired of it in the living room.

Another benefit to using compo-

nents is being able to change the overall

appearance. By building a different top

assembly, the project takes on a com-

pletely new look. For example, the

classic top with the oval can be replaced

with a straight one; see page 7.

W OOD . A classic project requires a

classic wood. And tight-grained cherr y

and cherr y plywood with its subtle

grain pattern is perfect. For the back

panel I used 1 / 4 " cherr y plywood.

F INISH . When it came time to apply a

finish I decided to use a cherry stain. I

wanted the rich reddish-brown color

without waiting for the aging process.

And using stain would even out the

color differences between the lighter

sapwood and darker hardwood.

I stained with Bartley’s Pennsylvania

Cherr y Gel Finish. A gel finish doesn’t

penetrate as deep as other stains so it

isn’t as likely to leave dark blotches.

After the stain dried, I wiped on

three coats of Bartley’s Clear Varnish.

Plans N O W

page 1

from

C LASSIC B OOKCASE

EXPLODED VIEW

MATERIALS LIST

WOOD

A Lwr. Case Frt. (1) 3 / 4 x 6 5 / 8 - 39 5 / 8

B Lwr. Case Sides (2) 3 / 4 x 6 5 / 8 - 11 13 / 16

C Upr. Case Frt. (1) 3 / 4 x 4 5 / 8 - 39 5 / 8

D Upr. Case Sides (2) 3 / 4 x 4 5 / 8 - 11 13 / 16

E Top/Btm. Panls. (2) 3 / 4 ply - 11 3 / 16 x 39 7 / 8

F Lwr. Case Blks. (2)

3 / 4 x 3 5 / 8 - 6 5 / 8

G Upr. Case Blks.(2)

3 / 4 x 3 5 / 8 - 4 5 / 8

H Filler Pieces (4)

3 / 8 x 3 / 4 - 2 1 / 8

I Lwr. Crnr. Blks. (2)

3 / 4 x 5 - 9 rough

J Upr. Crnr. Blks. (2)

3 / 4 x 4 - 6 rough

K Bead Molding (1)

3 / 8 x 5 / 8 - 14 feet

L Leveler Blocks (4)

3 / 4 x 5 3 / 4 - 2 1 / 8

M Top Molding (1)

3 / 4 x 1 3 / 4 - 78

N Cleat (1)

3 / 4 x 1 1 / 4 - 78

O Top Front (1)

3 / 4 x 6 - 44 rough

P Top Sides (2)

3 / 4 x 3 - 14 rough

Q Cove Molding (1)

3 / 4 x 1 3 / 8 - 78

R Fluted Caps (2)

3 / 4 x 3 3 / 4 - 84 rough

S Interior Panels (2)

3 / 4 ply - 11 1 / 2 x 72

T Exterior Panels (2)

3 / 4 ply - 11 3 / 4 x 72

U Ribs (8)

3 / 4 ply - 2 x 11 1 / 4

V Align. Blocks (4)

3 / 4 ply - 1 1 / 2 x 11 1 / 4

W Back (1)

1 / 4 ply - 38 1 / 2 x 73 1 / 2

X Shelves (5)

3 / 4 ply - 10 1 / 2 x 33 15 / 16

Y Trim Pieces (5)

3 / 4 x 1 1 / 4 - 33 15 / 16

HARDWARE SUPPLIES

(68) No. 8 x 1 1 / 4 " Fh woodscrews

(8) 1 / 4 -20 x 3" Hex head bolts

(8) 1 / 4 " Flat washers

(8) 1 / 4 -20 T-nuts

(2) 1 1 / 8 "-dia. Levelers with T-nuts

(4) 72" Shelf standard brackets (brown)

(52) Bracket nails (brown)

(20) Shelf supports (brown)

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:

91H x 42 7 / 8 W x 13 11 / 16 D

CUTTING DIAGRAM

#/4

x 7 - 96 (5 Bd. Ft.)

#/4"

CHERRY PLYWOOD 48 x 96

L L L L

G G

#/4

x 7 - 96 (5 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

#/4

x 8 - 84 (4.7 Bd. Ft.)

#/4" CHERRY PLYWOOD 48 x 96

#/4

x 5 - 84 (3.2 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

#/4

x 6 - 84 (3.5 Bd. Ft.)

NOTE:

ALSO NEED

ONE 4' x 8' SHEET

CHERRY

PLYWOOD

#/4

x 5 - 84 (2.9 Bd. Ft.)

!/4"

Plans N O W

page 2

!/2

UPPER & LOWER CASE

This bookcase is built in separate

assemblies. Normally, I’d build them

one at a time. But here, the upper and

lower case assemblies are almost iden-

tical. (The upper case is 2" shorter.)

Building them at the same time

reduced the number of setups.

F RONT & S IDES . Both the upper and

lower case assemblies start with a front

and two side pieces. I began by cutting

the lower case front (A) and sides (B) to

finished size; see Fig. 1. And then

repeated the same steps to make the

upper case front (C) and sides (D).

Next, I used a locking rabbet joint to

hold the front and side pieces together;

see Fig. 2. A tongue cut on the front

pieces fits in a 1 / 4 "-deep dado cut on the

side pieces. The important thing here is

to make the tongue fit snug in the dado.

After cutting the tongue, I rabbeted

the top edge of the lower case assembly

and the bottom edge of the upper case

assembly; see Fig. 3. These rabbets will

hold a top and bottom panel which are

made next.

T OP /B OTTOM P ANELS . To deter-

mine the length of the top/bottom

panels (E), dry assemble the fronts and

sides and measure the distance between

the rabbets on the sides; see Fig. 4.

Then to determine the width, mea-

sure from the rabbet on both front

pieces to the back edges of the sides.

But you need to leave room for the ply-

wood back (added later). So the width

of each panel is cut so it’s 1 / 4 " short of

the back edge; see Fig. 4a. In my case,

the finished size of both top/bottom

panels (E) was 11 3 / 16 " x 39 7 / 8 ".

After the panels are cut to size, the

next step is to rabbet three edges of

each panel (front and side edges); see

Figs. 4 and 4a. This rabbet creates a

“shelf” for molding that’s added later;

refer to Fig. 10 on page 72.

Once both panels have been rab-

beted, glue the upper/lower case sides,

fronts, and panels together. Clamp the

pieces and check that everything

remains square.

L EVELER B LOCKS . Because the

bookcase stands so tall, levelers are

added to the lower case assembly to

keep the back tight against the wall. To

hold these levelers, I added blocks (L)

at both front corners; see Fig. 5. The

leveler blocks also act as glue blocks

and help strengthen the corners.

UPPER CASE

FRONT

UPPER

CASE

SIDE

%/8

!#/16

%/8

LOWER CASE

SIDE

LOWER CASE

FRONT

NOTE:

ALL STOCK

THICK

FIRST:

CUT DADO

IN SIDE PIECES

!/4

#/4

UPPER CASE

SIDE

UPPER CASE

FRONT

#/8

#/4

!/4

SECOND:

CUT TONGUE

TO FIT DADO

CUT x

RABBET TO HOLD

PLYWOOD PANEL

#/8"

LOWER CASE

FRONT

LOWER CASE

SIDE

NOTE: DO NOT RABBET

BACK EDGE OF PANEL

TOP/BOTTOM

PANEL

&/8

CUT PANEL TO FIT

BETWEEN RABBETS

#/16

PANEL IS SET BACK

TO ALLOW FOR BACK

!/4"

#/4

!/4

#/8

LOWER

CASE

ASSEMBLY

CROSS SECTION

NOTE:

LEVELER BLOC K

INS T ALLED UP AGAINST

PLYWOOD PANEL

GLUE

LEVELER

BLOCKS AT

BOTH FRONT

CORNERS

DRILL

-DIA.

HOLE

1 DEEP

%/16"

#/4"

LEVELER

AND T-NUT

2!/8

!/2

#/4

LEVELER

BLOCK

Plans N O W

page 3

#/4"

Each leveler block is glued up from

two pieces of 3 / 4 "-thick stock. A T-nut is

installed in one end and the levelers

screw into the nut; see Fig. 5a.

When installing the blocks, position

them tight against the plywood panel.

Then glue and clamp them in place.

C ASE B LOCKS . The next step is to

add lower case blocks (F) and upper

case blocks (G). The blocks cover up

the end grain on the side pieces and

give the bookcase a distinctive look.

Both sets of blocks are cut to the

same width (3 5 / 8 "). But the height of

each set is determined by the height of

the upper and lower assemblies; see

Fig. 6. (Note: For tight-fitting case

blocks I made relief cuts on the back

faces; see the tip box below.)

You might be tempted to glue the

blocks directly to the front pieces. But

the wood grain on the blocks runs in a

different direction than the front pieces.

So there’s a good chance the blocks

would “pop-off” if the wood moved from

changes in humidity.

Instead, I drilled two shank holes

through the case fronts and screwed

the blocks in place; see Fig. 6a.

F ILLER P IECES . Next I added filler

pieces. These act as backing for bead

molding that will be glued to the top of

the case blocks later. I cut the hard-

wood filler pieces (H) 3 / 8 "-thick and

glued them in place; see Fig. 7.

UPPER CASE

BLOCK

3%/8

#/4

%/8

#8 x 1

WOOD-

SCRE !/4"

%/8

LOWER CASE

BLOCK

CROSS SECTION

FILLER

PIECE

GLUE FILLER PIECES

TO PLYWOOD PANEL

OF UPPER AND

LOWER CASES

UPPER

CORNER

BLOCK

( x 4" x 4")

#/4"

TOP VIEW

NOTE:

GRAIN

DIRECTION

OF CORNER

BLOCKS

#/4

#8 x 1

Fh WOODSCREW

!/4"

#/4

!/8

LOWER

CORNER

BLOCK

( x 6" x 6")

#/4"

C ORNER B LOCKS . Then I turned the

assemblies around so I could glue and

screw on lower (I) and upper (J) corner

blocks at the back corners; see Fig. 8.

These triangular-shaped blocks add

support to each assembly. Note: The

blocks are installed flush with the back

edge of the plywood.

Relief Cuts

The success of a project

depends on the fit of the

parts. This is especially true

for a piece of trim that’s

applied to the face of a

project such as the case

blocks on this bookcase.

The blocks should fit

tight to the case along

their edges. But if the

blocks are cupped even

slightly the edges won’t fit

tight; see Fig. 1.

This is the same problem

faced by carpenters who

install trim molding in

houses. Their solution is to

use molding that’s milled

with a shallow “relief” on

the back side to fit up tight

against a wall.

So I cut a shallow

channel across the back

side to create relief behind

the block; see Fig. 2.

Note: In order to avoid

weakening the block, only

cut the channel 1 / 16 " deep.

CUPPED PIECE OF

MOLDING CAUSES GAP

AT JOINT LINE

RELIEF ON BACK OF MOLDING

PERMITS TIGHT FIT

CUT RELIEF

-DEEP

LEAVING

-WIDE

SHOULDER

!/16"

!/2"

CUT RELIEF IN

MULTIPLE PASSES

OVER DADO BLADE

Plans N O W

page 4

C HAMFER E DGES . After installing

the corner blocks, I turned the upper

and lower assemblies over and routed a

chamfer around three edges; see Figs. 9

and 9a. (See the box below for tips on

preventing chipout when routing.)

One problem here is that the

chamfer bit won’t cut a square inside

corner. So to clean up the inside cor-

ners right up next to the case blocks, I

used a sharp chisel and followed the

profile of the bevel; see Fig. 9b.

B EAD M OLDING . The next step is to

make the bead molding (K). The molding

fits on the rabbeted edge on both the

upper and lower cases and wraps

around the filler piece; see Fig. 10.

First I cut the molding to size; see

Fig. 9a. Then I used a 3 / 16 " roundover bit

in the router table to rout a bullnose

profile on the front edge of each piece.

Note: I made extra molding in case I cut

a piece or two that didn’t quite fit.

When installing the molding, cut the

long pieces first (the ones that cover the

lower and upper case fronts). That way

if you cut one a little short, it still can be

used for the side pieces. Then work

your way around to the sides, cutting

and fitting the pieces as you go. Finally,

glue all the pieces in place.

CROSS SECTION

&/16

NOTE: ROUT CHAMFER ON SIDES

A ND FRONTS OF UPPER AND

LOW E R C A SE ASSEM B LIES

%/16

SQUARE UP

CORNER WITH

A SHARP CHISEL

CROSS SECTION

%/8

MIT E R THE L ON G PIECES OF

M O LDING FI R ST. T H EN WORK YOUR

WAY A ROUND TO THE CASE SI D ES.

#/8

BEAD

MOLDING

#/16"

ROUNDOVER

Backrouting

You can run into a problem

when freehand routing

around a corner.

That’s the situation I

faced while building the

bookcase. Both the upper

and lower assemblies call

for chamfers around the

sides and front.

If you try to rout these

chamfers in the normal

way (feeding the router

from left to right), you will

be approaching the corner

of the front trim piece from

behind ; see Fig. 1.

As the router bit exits the

corner, it will take a chunk

of wood with it; see Fig.

1a. But chipout like this

can be avoided by

approaching the corner

from the front; see Fig. 2.

Freehand routing from

right to left is called “back-

routing.” There are a

couple things to keep in

mind when backrouting.

First, keep a firm grip on

the router. In the normal

feed direction, the router

bit pulls itself smoothly

along the workpiece.

But it’s different when

backrouting. Now the bit

tends to “hop” taking little

nibbles out of the wood.

The second tip for back-

routing is to take light

(shallow) passes. Again,

the reason for this is

control. By taking smaller

nibbles, the router bit will

do less hopping.

NORMAL

FEED DIRECTION

(LEFT TO RIGHT)

BACKROUTING

FEED

DIRECTION

(RIGHT TO LEFT)

BIT

CROSSES

CORNER FROM

INSIDE CAUSING

CHIPOUT

BIT

CROSSES

CORNER FROM

OUTSIDE

(NO CHIPOUT)

BIT

ROTATION

BIT

ROTATION

Plans N O W

page 5

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