Wind Turbine-Blade Layout And Carving.pdf

Blade layout and carving

Starting out you’ll need 2 x 6 lumber, 2 - 8ft pieces should work fine with some to spare… just in

case. You should look for some premium 2x6 standard pine studs with reasonably straight grain as

well as no knots. Finding them with no knots is pretty much hard to do so look for some with no

“big” knots and only real small ones. I use the standard lumber because it’s inexpensive and so far

they’ve worked out quite well for me. I wouldn’t use hardwood, although it looks nice it’s

considerably more difficult to work with and its heavy. If you can carry a long board its best to

make all 3 blades from the same cut of wood this way your more assured of consistency and density.

So you have your lumber and your ready to start. Begin by cutting the 3 boards 39 inches long.

Below is a chart of the dimensions we will use to design the blades. All measurements in inches.

Station

Radius

Blade angle

Chord

Thickness

Drop

5 ½

1 ½

15 ½

.88

1 ½

23 ½

.61

31 ¼

.46

2 ½

.37

Once the boards are cut to 39 inches find the edge that is in the best shape, one side or the other, this

will be the Leading edge. You can mark it with a permanent marker along the edge so you

remember which is which as we go. Standing in front of it the leading edge is at the top of the board

the tip is to the left and the root is on the right. Measure from the root 6 inches toward the tip and

make a mark. If you have a square draw a line across the board. At the tip, measure from the

leading edge (top) toward the trailing edge (bottom) 2 ½ inches and make a mark. Take another

board or a yard stick and draw a line from the tip at the 2 ½ inch mark to the trailing edge of the 6

inch root line. This will be your blade shape. Now mark the stations radius marks measuring from

the root and using a square draw lines down to the angle line. When you’re done it should look

something like the below picture…

Now complete the other two the same way.

When the other two blades are done you can cut away that portion that isn’t the blade shown in the

above picture as “cut out”. When your done it should look line the below picture…

When the un-needed section is cut off then use the square and draw the lines all the way around all 3

blades. Sometimes to make it easier you can number the stations starting from the first line to the

root as 1 and the tip being 5. It helps to remove the confusion as we lay out the blade, especially if

you’ve never carved a blade.

Lay the blade on its edge with the Leading edge upright and mark the thickness at each station from

the chart above then draw a line from one station to the next from each of the marks. I used a

marker to hi-light the part of the blade that will remain and placed “X’s” in the part that will

eventually be cut away in the picture below…

Now flip the board over to lay out the trailing edge side in a similar fashion. The trailing edge is a bit

different because we have not only the thickness of the blade but the amount of “drop” from the top

of the board to form the angle of the blade. Start by marking the drop at each station and draw a

line as you did before from station to station. Then measure the width from that line toward the

bottom of the board. Once again connect the marks by drawing a line. Notice it looks like the root

end will be cut away and the thickness of the area between 2 and 3 runs off the edge. It looks odd

right now but it will come together shortly. When the trailing edge looks like the one below then

complete the other two in the same process.

Below shows a picture of the tip with the lines drawn across. This gives you a better idea of what the

piece your going to be cutting out looks like… notice I screwed up and drew the airfoil shape in the

wrong direction… the darkened area is the correct direction…

I don’t like whittling little pieces for a long time to make the blade start looking like a blade so lets

make some big chips fly. If you have a band saw things will go quite a bit faster but you do have to

watch what you’re cutting. If you don’t have a band saw you can use a regular hand saw or a hack

saw with a heavy tooth blade. A sawzall works well also, if you’re careful. Power tools definitely

make the process faster. The elbow grease works well too just takes a few minutes longer.

I should mention that I’m not a wood worker and there are probably other, better ways of doing this.

This just happens to be the way I’ve worked out to make things a bit quicker and it works for me…

you may know of better ways to accomplish the same task. I try to make big chunks as quickly as

possible to form the blade. If you know of a better quicker way please share it with me…

I’m using a band saw through out these instructions, if you don’t have a band saw, a jig saw – hand

saw – hack saw will work just fine. Sometimes a little creativity goes along way using the tools and

equipment you have.

I started by cutting a ¾” piece of plywood scrap to clamp in front of the blade so it doesn’t cut the

leading edge. Once its in place you can lay the blade up against the board and tilt the board in to

make each cut. Tilt it out and move it down about an inch and make another cut until the entire

blade is slotted. Only cut down to just above the line to leave some sanding room.

Below shows the board clamped to the band saw…

Below shows the start cuts …

Below shows the blade being tilted inward to make the slots…

This will cut the slot at the angle you want and leave the leading edge clean with no cuts. Once

you’re done with all 3 blades you can start on the other side of the blade.

The next cut will remove a lot of material fairly quickly. Since the drop and width are substantial on

the trailing edge side of the blade you can remove a good portion of material in one cut as in the

picture below…

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