Clock - Kitchen clock2.pdf

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12284ez
Project 12284EZ:
19th Century
Kitchen Clock
Called a Kitchen Clock, this was a popular
item in the late 1800s. In fact, millions were
made and sold. The original was made of
walnut, but we made this one out of red oak.
If possible, select quartersawn oak for the
scrollwork (parts F and H), as it is less likely
to cup later on. Also, make sure the stock is
well dried.
19th Century Kitchen Clock Materials
List Part
Description
Size
No. Req’d
A
Side
1/2" x 3-1/2" x 14-1/2"
2
B
Top
1/2" x 3-1/8" x 7-1/4"
1
C
Bottom
1/2" x 3 x 7-1/4"
1
D
Base
1/4" x 4-3/8" x 13-1/4"
1
E
Back
1/2" x 7-1/4" x 14-3/8"
1
F
Upper Scroll
3/8" x 9" x 13-1/2"
1
G
Rosette
See detail.
1
H
Side Scroll
3/8" x 2-1/4" x 7-3/4"
2
I
Bracket
See detail.
1
J
Top Cleat
1/2" x 1/2" x 5-1/2"
1
K
Side Cleat
1/2" x 1/2" x 2"
2
L
Molding
See detail.
as req’d
M
Door Side
1/2" x 7/8" x 12-3/4"
2
N
Door Bottom
1/2" x 7/8" x 7-1/3"
1
O
Door Top
1/2" x 7/8" x 3-1/8"
3
P
Glass
1/8" x 6-1/8" x 13-5/8"
1
Q
Movement Obtain from clockmaker’s supply store.
1
R
Gong
Obtain from clockmaker’s supply store.
1
S
Dial Plate Obtain from clockmaker’s supply store.
1
T
Paper Dial Obtain from clockmaker’s supply store.
1
U
Hinge
3/4" x 3/4"
1
V
Catch
as req’d
1
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19th Century Kitchen Clock Complete
Schematic
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19th Century Kitchen Clock Step-by-Step
Instructions
1. Select a piece of 1/2" thick stock from which to cut the sides (A).
2. Cut the stock overall length and width as shown.
3. Use the table or radial-arm saw with a dado-head cutter to make the 1/2"
wide by 3/8" deep rabbet along the top, bottom, and back edges.
4. Cut the 3/8" x 3-1/2" notch on the front of parts A in the same manner.
5. Give parts A, B, and C a complete sanding.
6. Assemble parts A, B, and C with glue and clamps.
7. Check for squareness and adjust if necessary.
8. Allow to dry thoroughly.
9. Remove the clamps.
10. Sand the outside of the case, giving particular attention to the joints to
insure that the mating surfaces are flush.
11. Trim a piece of stock 1-3/8" thick x 3" wide x 36" long from which to make
the beaded molding (see Figure 1 ).
12. Obtain a molding-head, a three-bead cutter, and a 1/4" - 1/2" quarter-quarter
round cutter.
13. Use countersunk screws to attach an auxiliary plywood fence, at least 3/4"
thick, to the rip-fence so that the rip-fence overlaps the cutter, a necessary
factor in making this type of molding.
14. Remove the regular table saw inset, as it cannot be used with the dado-head.
15. Cut a piece of 1/4" thick x 3" - 4" wide plywood to approximately the
length of the rip fence. This will replace the regular inset.
16. Set the molding-head cutters below the level of the tabletop.
17. Clamp the plywood to the saw tables.
18. Equip the molding head with the beading cutters to begin making the bead-
ing cut.
19. Lower the cutters below the level of the tabletop.
20. Locate the rip fence and auxiliary fence for the cut.
21. Set the plywood inset against the fence.
22. Clamp the inset to the saw table.
23. Start the saw.
24. Raise the cutters slowly so they are slightly higher than the needed depth of
the cut.
25. Lower them to exact cutting height and cut through the inset.
26. Replace the dado-head with a regular saw blade.

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