Tunika(03)_EN.pdf

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E 993 Download Pattern 17, Tunic A, B, C
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40,
42, 44
Length from waist:
Views A and B, approx. 84 cm (33 inches),
View C, approx. 88 cm (35 inches)
Fabric and notions
17 A, Print tunic
Crepe chiffon, 125 cm (49 inches) wide:
sizes 34, 36, 38: 1.80 m (2 yds),
sizes 40, 42, 44: 1.90 m (2 1 / 8 yds).
Chiffon for lining, 150 cm (59 inches) wide:
0.95 m (1 1 / 8 yds) for all sizes
Vilene Bias Tape. Sewing thread.
A, B, C: Pieces 1 and 2,
Size 34 22222
Size 36 33333
Size 38 44444
Size 40 55
Size 42 66666
Size 44 77777
A
B
C
17 B, White tunic
Chiffon, embroidered with sequins, 110 cm
(43 inches) wide: 2.00 m (2 1 / 4 yds) for all
sizes.
Chiffon for lining, 150 cm (59 inches) wide:
1.20 m (1 3 / 8 yds).
Vilene Bias Tape.
Elastic, 1 cm ( 3 / 8 inch) wide:
sizes 34, 36: 1.00 m (40 inches),
sizes 38, 40: 1.10 m (44 inches),
sizes 42, 44: 1.15 m (46 inches).
Sewing thread.
Printing paper pattern
(for DIN A / 8¼ x 11½ inch paper)
The pattern pieces are printed on 18 sheets,
each framed by a thin line. Wait until all sheets
have been printed. Lay the sheets in the cor-
rect positions (see extra sheet with overview
of printed sheets). Cut each sheet along the
thin lines at the top and right edges. Begin
with the lower left sheet and glue all sheets
together, exactly on the thin lines. Now cut
out the pattern pieces.
Important : Seam and hem allowances are not
included on the pattern pieces.
differing hem and lining lines for views A, B, and
C.
Important: No pattern pieces are given for
the bias strips. These pieces can be drawn
directly on the fabric, following the measure-
ments given under “Cutting”.
Cutting
The cutting layouts below show how the
pattern pieces should be laid on the fabric.
Make sure that the straight grain line marked
on each pattern piece lies parallel to the sel-
vages or the fold of the fabric.
17 C, Black tunic
Chiffon, embroidered with sequins, 112 cm
(44 inches) wide: 2.00 m (2 1 / 4 yds) for all
sizes.
Lining and notions, see view A.
Before you cut
All pattern information can be found in the
pattern overview, above. Cut out the pattern
pieces along the lines for your size, noting the
Recommended fabrics : Lightweight dress
fabrics.
Tunic A, B, C:
Main fabric:
1 Front, on fold
Cutting layouts
Sizes 4 2 and 44
1x
2 Back, on fold
1x
A, Tunic,
Crepe chiffon,
125 cm wide
A, Lining,
150 cm wide
Sizes 34 to 40
For view A only:
a) Bias strip for neck edge, length for
size 34: 65 cm (25 3 / 4 "); size 36: 66 cm (26");
size 38: 68 cm (26 3 / 4 "); size 40: 69 cm (27 1 / 4 ");
size 42: 70 cm (27 3 / 4 "); size 44: 72 cm (28 1 / 2 "),
all 4 cm (1 5 / 8 ") wide (including allowances),
b) 2 bias strips for armhole edges, length for
size 34: 44 cm (17 1 / 4 "); size 36: 46 cm (18 1 / 8 ");
size 38: 48 cm (19"); size 40: 49 cm (19 1 / 4 ")
size 42: 50 cm (20"); size 44: 52 cm (20 1 / 2 "),
all 4 cm (1 5 / 8 ") wide (including allowances).
Sizes 34 to 44
For a double layer of fabric, the right side is facing in.
For a single layer of fabric, the right side is facing up.
Seam and hem allowances
Use a ruler and tailor’s chalk to mark the
seam and hem allowances around each paper
pattern piece, as follows: 1.5 cm ( 5 / 8 in) for
hem and at all other seams and edges. Cut
out fabric pieces along these lines.
B , C, Tun i c,
Chiffon with sequins,
110/112 cm wide
Sizes 34 to 44
B, C, Lining,
150 cm wide
Sizes 34 to 40
Sizes 42 and 44
Transfer pattern lines and
markings to fabric pieces
Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing
wheel to transfer pattern outlines (= seam
Copyright 2009 by Verlag Aenne Burda
Page 1 / 2
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burda Download E 993, Instructions, Tunics
Page 2 / 2
and hem lines) and all other lines and
markings (except grain lines) to wrong sides
of fabric pieces (see instructions included
with carbon paper). Hand-baste along center
front (SEAM), from upper edge to seam
mark, and along pleat lines to make these
lines visible on the right side of the fabric.
3
6. Hem:
On tunic and lining, press hem allowance to
inside. Stitch along fold edge with closely
spaced zigzag stitching. Carefully trim allow-
ance directly next to zigzag stitching (7).
4
B, White tunic
Lining
Prepare pattern piece : Cut pattern piece 1
along the marked LINING and CENTER
FRONT lines.
TIP : To make cutting easier for sizes 42 and
44, trace pattern pieces 1 and 2 twice each
and glue matching pattern pieces together
along the center.
Cutting :
1 Front, on fold
5
Center front seam, rolled pleat , see the tunic,
view A, step 1. Remove sequins from the ex-
tending pleat. section Sew shoulder and side
seams as described for step 2.
1x
7. Lining, lower edge, casing:
Stitch shoulder and side seams on lining. Trim
allowances to 1 cm ( 3 / 8 inch) wide, inish
edges together, and press toward back..
To created the twisted balloon effect, pull the
lining over the tunic, right sides facing, so that
the lining front lies on the tunic back and the
lining back, on the tunic front. Pin lower edges
together. Stitch (8). Turn allowances toward
lining pieces. Topstitch lining 1.2 cm ( 1 / 2 inch)
from seam to form casing for elastic, leaving
2 Back, on fold
1x
3. Lining:
Iron Vilene Bias Tape (or strips of soft inter-
facing) to wrong side of neck and armhole
edges of lining pieces. If usingVilene BiasTape,
the line of chain stitch must lie along marked
seam line (4). Strips of soft interfacing should
extend slightly past seam line.
Stitch shoulder and side seams on lining. Trim
allowances to 1 cm ( 3 / 8 inch) wide, inish edges
together, and press toward back.
Pin lining to tunic, wrong sides facing. Baste
together along neck and armhole edges.
For views B and C only :
a) Bias strip for neck edge: see view A.
b) 2 bias strips for armhole edges: see view A.
Sewing
right side
wrong side
lining
8
When basting and stitching, the right fabric
sides are facing. Tie-off beginning and end of
each seam with backstitching.
4. Bind neck and armhole edges
with bias strips
If necessary, stitch bias strips for neck edge
together, right sides facing. Press seams open.
Fold each bias strip in half lenghthwise, right
side facing out. Press. Baste bias strips to neck
and armhole edges, right sides facing, so that
fold edges lie on garment, 1 cm ( 3 / 8 inch)
past seam line, and open edges lie on seam
allowances. On neck edge, begin at one
shoulder seam and on armhole edges, begin
at side seam, turning ends of bias strips under.
Stitch neck and armhole edges to bias strips.
Trim seam allowances (5). Press bias strips to
inside and sew to lining by hand, making sure
that stitches are not visible on right side of
tunic.
A, Print tunic
1. Center front seam, rolled pleat:
Fold front piece in half lengthwise, wrong
side facing in (Atten-
tion: The colors for
right side and wrong
side have accidentally
been reversed in illus.
1!). Pin center front
seam from marked
neck edge to seam
mark. Stitch. Clip allow-
ances of neck edge in-
to corner, close to
last stitch (1). Unfold
front. Lay rolled pleat
down on right side of
fabric, and pin in
place (2).
9
approx. 4 cm (1 5 / 8 inches) open to pull elastic
through. Pull elastic into casing. Sew ends of
elastic together (9) for the following inished
elastic circumference, for
size 34: 92 cm (36 1 / 4 "); size 36: 96 cm (37 3 / 4 ");
size 38: 100 cm (40"); size 40: 104 cm (41");
size 42: 108 cm (42 1 / 2 "); size 44: 112 cm (44 1 / 4 ").
Sew seam opening closed.
Pull lining into tunic, wrong sides facing,
turning lining so that lining front meets tunic
front and lining back meets tunic back at
neck and armhole edges. Baste lining and
tunic together along neck and armhole
edges.
Bind neck and armhole edges with bias strips
as described for view A, step 4.
Lay rolled pleat as described for view A, step
5. Fold rolled pleat over upper edge of tunic
to inside and sew binding strip to inside of
tunic, by hand.
5. Rolled pleat :
Lay pleats in direction of arrows and pin in
place. Lay rolled pleat lat so that center of
pleat meets seam (6). Finish ends together.
Fold rolled pleat over upper edge of tunic to
inside and sew to in-
side of tunic.
1
6
2
2. Shoulder and side seams:
Lay front on back, right sides facing. Pin
shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch (3).
Trim seam allowances to 1 cm ( 3 / 8 inch)
wide, inish edges together, and press toward
back.
C, Black tunic
7
Sew the black tunic as for the white tunic, but
without the twisted effect. At lower edge of
tunic, stitch lining front to tunic front and
stitch lining back to tunic back.
Copyright 2009 by Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG, Am Kestendamm 1, D-77652 Offenburg, Germany.
All models, pattern pieces, and illustrations are copyrighted. Commercial use is prohibited.
The publishers cannot be held responsible for damages due to improper use of the pattern or materials,
improper carr ying-out of instructions or tips, or improper use of f inished models.
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