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Danielle
By: BurdaStyle
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/danielle
We chose the crushed velvet for this creation to give it a fuller effect. A regular velvet or any other
plain fabric would give you a cleaner line. Experiment with different colors or a trim for the border
underneath the bust and end up with a completely different style.
Materials
velvet, crushed velvet
Step 1
1 Front Piece in Selvage 1x
2 Front Placket in Selvage 1x
3 Front Skirt Piece in Selvage 1x
4 Back Piece 2x
5 Back Placket 2x
6 Back Skirt Piece 2x
7 Sleeves 2x
8 Front Trimming in Selvage 1x
9 Back Trimming 2x
Sizes 2 to 12 (EU 34 to 44)
Fabric needed
Embroidered dupioni Silk, 54â“ (135 cm) wide
Sizes 34,36: 64â“ (160 cm),
Size 38: 72â“ (180 cm),
Sizes 40,42,44: 76â“ (190 cm) long
Pleated Organza Inset with velvet band, 1 1/2â“ (4 cm) wide
Sizes 34,36: 32â“ (80 cm),
Sizes 38, 40: 36â“ (90 cm),
Sizes 42,44: 40â“ (100 cm) long
Satin : 56â“ (140 cm) wide,
Sizes 34,36, 38: 52â“ (130 cm)
Sizes 40,42,44: 56â“ (140 cm) long
Chiffon: 56â“ (140 cm) wide; 4â“ (10 cm) long for all sizes
22â“ (55 cm) fusible bias tape, 36â“ (90 cm) wide
1 seam zip, 34â“ (60 cm) long, special sewing foot
Elastic band: ¼ⓠ(7mm) wide, 28ⓠ(70 cm) long
Step 2
The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:
The patterns are printed out with a thin frame. Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that they fit together (see
additional page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin
with the left lower sheet and then tape the frame lines together precisely.
Step 3
ADJUST PATTERN SIZES
Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers
and skirts according to the hip width. Change the pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate from the Burda-size chart. Cut out
the pattern according to your size.
Refer to our â“Adjust patterns for mixed sizesâ“ technique
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5â“ 6â“ (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces along the lines
marked “lengthen or shorten here”. This way the proper fit is maintained. Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line to the
same degree.
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines
To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Blend the side edges.
Step 4
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (â“ â“ â“ â“) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being the center of the pattern piece, but never a cut edge or seam. The piece
should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting
diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should
be placed on the fabric.
The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric.
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and
the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown extending over the fold of the fabric in the cutting
diagram should be cut last from a single layer of fabric .
Step 5
SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average:
1 5â”8" (4 cm) for hem, 5/8â“ (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the lines and signs of the
pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric. Instructions can be found in the packaging.
Sewing
While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are facing.
Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right side of the fabric using basting stitches.
Interfacing
All pieces that are depicted as grey areas on the copy paper should be cut as interfacing with the same grain
direction as the fabric pieces. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric pieces for which they
are needed.
Step 6
Darts
Fold the front piece, the back pieces and the back skirt pieces so that the dart lines meet, right sides facing.
Pin dart lines onto another and stitch, starting at the lower front and back piece edges (i.e. the upper skirt
edge) and ending at the tip. Tie thread ends. (a) Iron darts to the front middle and back middle.
Pleats
Fold the front skirt pieces at the middle pleating line, right sides facing. Pin pleating lines from above,
stopping at the pleating mark. Stitch. (b)
Fold skirt piece apart and lay pleats so that the pleat middle meets with the seam. Pin the pleats to the upper skirt piece edge. ©
Step 7
Attaching the Plackets
Pin the front placket right sides facing onto the front pieces (seam number 1), place the back plackets onto the back pieces (seam
number 3). Stitch. (a)
Pin the lower placket edges right sides facing onto the corresponding upper skirt pieces edges. Stitch. (b) Iron seam allowances into
the plackets and de-baste
Shoulder and Side Seams
Place back pieces onto front pieces, right sides facing, pin shoulder and side seams. Stitch. © Iron seam allowances apart and
de-baste.
Step 8
Seam Zip and Back Middle Seam
De-baste the seam allowances of the dress edges in the back. Mark slit end with small cuts (a)
.
Place opened zip onto the right side of the fabric of the back slit, facing up. Space between the zip band edge and the seam
allowances edge should be 5 mm. Pin the upper end of the zip to the edge of the seam allowance. The bottom end of the zip
overlaps at the marked end of the slit. Place sewing foot onto the zip so that the spiral in the notch lies to the right of the needle (b)
Stitch zip coming from above until you reach the marked end of the slit. Close zip. Place the other band of the zip onto the front slit
edge, facing up. Pin at the top. ©
Open zip. Place the sewing foot onto the upper end of the zip so that the spiral in the notch lies to the left of the needle. (d)
Coming from above, stitch zip until you reach the marked end of the slit, then close zip. Place skirt pieces below the zip onto each
other, right sides facing, pin the left side seam coming from below until you reach the marked end of the slit, placing the lower end of
the zip loosely towards the seam allowance. Stitch seam. Trim seam allowance.
Step 9
Adding the Trimming to the Neckline
Place the back trimmings right sides facing onto the front trimming, pin shoulder and side seams. Stitch. (a)
Fold apart and iron seam allowances. De-baste the lower edge of the trimming. Pin trimming onto the neck
line, right sides facing. Seams and seam lines meet. Fold the back edges of the trimming to the outside,
about 5mm from the slit edges, pin to the neck lineâ“s edge. Stitch along the neck lineâ“s edge. Trim seam
allowances, cut at the rounded edges (b)
Plik z chomika:
Apoptygma
Inne pliki z tego folderu:
danielle_original.pdf
(2700 KB)
9306DanielleCopyShop_original.pdf
(571 KB)
9306DanielleHomePrint_original.pdf
(3395 KB)
burda_babydoll.jpg
(45 KB)
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