6005 Shorts Instructions.pdf

6005 Shorts

PATTERN

LENGTHENING

SHORTENING

THE

1 Front pant 2x

2 Back pant 2x

3 Front waist band 2x

4 Back waist band 2x

5 Front Facing 2x

6 Underlap 2x

7 Pocket pouch 1x

8 Pocket pouch 1x

9 Pocket welt 2x

10 Pocket 1x

11 Cover 2x

12 Front belt 2x

13 Back belt 2x

PATTERN PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If

you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit

your size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here".

Thus the fit is preserved.

Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the

same amount at the same lines.

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as

far apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as

far as necessary. Even out the side edges.

Paper cut for US Letter (8 ½” X 11”) (German DIN

A4) prints :

The patterns are printed out on 16 sheets with a thin

frame. Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the

sheets so that they fit together (see extra page with the

overview of the prints). Cut off the single sheets on the

upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin

with the left lower sheet and then glue the parts in the

frame lines together precisely.

Select your size according to the Burda size chart:

Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust

size; trousers and skirts according to the hip width.

Change the patterns according to size if necessary, to fit

your measurements if they deviate from the Burda size

chart.

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern

piece but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be

cut double, with the fold line forming the center line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the

cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how

the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned

to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right

sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the

left side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting

diagram, extending over the fold of the fabric, should be

cut last from a single layer of fabric.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

Upper waist band edge = 1 3/5”(4 cm) below the waist.

Sizes 36 to 46: In part 1 mark the buttonholes and the

stitch line at the same width to the side edge and upper

pant edge as size 34 mark. In part 3 and 12 mark the

buttonhole at the same width to the edges as size 34.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are

included on an average:

3/4” (2 cm) for the hem, 5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and

stitches. Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer all pattern

lines and markings to the left side of the fabric pieces.

You will find instructions in the packet.

Interfacing

Cut interfacing according to the drawing and

press onto the left fabric side

SEWING

When sewing the right fabric sides are

facing.

Transfer all lines on the pattern using a

basting stitch to the right fabric side.

SHORTS

Bound pocket /right front pant

Press a strip of interfacing onto the wrong

side of the fabric of the right front pant piece

over the marked lines of the pocket. (drawing

2).

Important for sizes 36 to 46 : Draw in lines

between the end marks of the pocket on the

front left pant leg. Between those lines, draw

the cutting line, around 1/2” (1.3 cm) shorter

at each end. Transfer lines to right side of

fabric using basting stitches.

1) Baste pocket welts onto both sides of the

cutting edge of the front pant piece and stitch

using 3/8” (0.7 cm). Secure seam ends.

2) Cut pant piece between the stitching lines

along the cutting marks and cut diagonally

coming close to the last stitching line,

forming little triangles. Don't cut into the

piping tapes. Press the piping tapes onto the

seam.

3) Turn the piping inwards and baste,

approach from the right side, to make them

of equal width and make them cover the

cutting. Press.

4) Baste pocket pouch (piece 8) in such a

way onto the left fabric side, that the even

edge above the seam will be positioned

below the piping.

5) Stitch exactly along the seam of the

bottom piping, approaching from the right

side. Thereby stitching the pocket pouch.

Press pocket pouch downwards.

6) Pin the other pocket pouch onto the upper

pant edge so that the bottom and side edges

of the pocket pouches lay on top of each

other. Approaching from the right, stitch

along the seam of the upper piping, thereby

closing the pocket pouch (see drawing 5).

7) Fold the triangles at the cutting ends

inwards. Baste pocket pouches one on top of

the other, cut, trim and stitch them together

one on top of the other starting at the bottom

pocket pouch; thereby beginning or ending at

the seam of the upper piping. Stitch through

the triangles.

8) Pin Darts of the back pant pieces and

stitch peaked. Knot threads. Press darts

towards the center back.

Pocket /left back Pant piece

9) Neaten pocket edges. Fold and press the

allowances of the upper edges, Stitch. Fold

and baste the allowances of the bottom

edges, press.

10) Baste pocket, meeting the line (where the

pocket flap piece will be attached), onto the

left back pant piece and topstitch narrowly.

Pocket Flap

11) Pin pocket flap pieces on top of each

other, right sides facing, baste edges on top

of each other according to the drawing and

stitch. Trim allowances and cut corners

diagonally. Turn flap. Baste edges, press and

topstitch the edges.

12) Stitch flap with upper side facing right

side of pants, along the marked line. Secure

seam ends. Press cover downwards (12a).

Button facings

13) Baste facings for buttons onto the front

pant piece, right sides facing (seam 1) and

stitch. Secure seam ends. Baste underlap onto

the back pant pieces, right sides facing (seam

2) and stitch. Secure seam ends. Press pieces

in each case onto the beginning seam and

neaten the other long trimming and underlap

edge.

Side seams

14) Position front pant pieces onto the back

pant pieces, right sides facing, baste side

seams from the slit mark all the way down

(seam 4) and stitch. Secure seam ends. Clip

the back pant parts along the underlap close

to the stitching line (arrow 14a).

15) Neaten allowances and press apart, fold

and baste the facing of the front pant piece

inwards. Baste the facing of the underlap

along the fold line inwards. Press edges.

Stitch back pant pieces along the underlap

beginning seam, thereby including the inner

edge.

16) Stitch the front pant pieces according to

the drawing, thereby stitch the facing. Do

NOT include the underlap. Sew the

buttonholes. Pin slit and stitch along the

diagonal bottom stitch line, through both the

facing and the underlap.

Inside pant leg seams

17) Fold pant legs lengthwise, right side

inwards. Baste inside pant legs (seam 5) and

stitch. Trim allowances and press apart.

Front center seam

18) Turn one pant leg inside out. Move pant

legs, one inside the other, right fabric sides

must be facing.

19) Stitch center seam along the front upper

edge to the inside pant leg seams. Secure

seam ends. Trim allowances.

Front waistband

20) Baste front waistband including

interfacing onto the front pant pieces (seam

1) and stitch. Press allowances inwards

towards the waistband.

21) Fold and press the allowances of the

bottom edge at the other front waistband

(without interfacing). Pin this waistband on

top of the already stitched waistband, right

sides facing. Baste upper and side edges on

top of each other. Trim allowances, cut

corners diagonally.

22) Turn waistband. Baste edges, press and

stitch narrowly all around, thereby stitching

the inner half of the waistband. Sew the

buttonholes.

23) Baste back waistband pieces including

the interfacing onto the back pant pieces

(seam 3) and stitch. Press allowances inwards

towards the waistbands.

Center Back Seam

24) Move the pant legs (one folded inside

out), one inside the other one. Baste the

center back seam (also at the waist) and

stitch. Neaten allowances and press apart

starting from the top to the beginning of the

rounded part (crotch). Position the back

waistband pieces (without interfacing) on top

of each other, right sides facing, sew center

back seam.

Double the back waistband according to the

text and drawing numbers 21 and 22.

Belt

25) Position the front and back parts of the

belt on top of each other, right sides facing,

baste edges on top of each other and stitch,

thereby leaving an opening to reverse the

belt. Baste edges, press and stitch narrowly.

Sew the buttonholes into the front part of the

belt.

26) Pin the back part of the belt, meeting the

lines, onto the back waist band, pin the ends

to the extension of the underlap seam. Apply

BUTTONS, fitting the buttonholes, onto the

underlap and the back waistband. Button up

the slit, and fix and button up the front part of

the belt onto the waistband.

Pant cuff

27) Neaten bottom pant edge, fold inwards

and baste along the CUFF FOLD LINE,

press and stitch.

28) Turn the bottom pant edge outside along

the HEM FOLD LINE. Baste cuff, press, and

possibly secure with some stitches on inner

and outer leg seam..

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