Mike Bent - Zero Gravity (self-levitation).pdf - M - animga

EFFECT: You stand in the middle of a room. Without any cover, totally away from

any objects, your body completely levitates 4 ~ 5 inches off the ground, putting

you heads above the competition.

COMPLETE STEP'BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

Performance rights for Zero Gravity are granted only to purchasers of this manuscript If you

have not purchased this effect, you do not have the right to perform it. The signature below

validates the manuscnpt's authenticity.

Special thanks to Eric/ Steve, and Skip for their always appreciated advice and their

help in working out the bugs. And oven more thanks to Linda for her fine editing,

extreme patience and support.

Television performance rights reserved,

thi$ book is prohibited The reproduction or utilisation of this work HI whole or in part in any form

by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, is forbidden

without the written permission of the author. Television performance rights reservecLThte book

may not be purchased by any public library, or used for any public display. The author ha$

neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity for injuries, loss or damages resulting

from the construction, rehearsal/ or performance of the effect explained in this book. The right to

manufacture this product for sale is reserved by the author,

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

INTRODUCTION

Thanks for purchasing Zero Gravity. This self-levitation is an improvement on an impromptu

stunt, originator unknown, introduced by Ed Balducci in the 1960s and published in Pallbearer's

Review. The Balducci Levitation is a great method for totally impromptu levitation, but it has its

severe angle limitations. With Zero Gravity, the audience sees both feet leave the ground

completely. The angles are vastly improved, allowing larger audiences to enjoy the effect. You

also don't have to be as concerned with the exact placement of the spectators. While no longer

impromptu, the illusion is much, stronger and worth the effort of an added gimmick.

The secret is in the shoes. They are gaffed so that your left foot can come out of the

shoe and act as an unseen lift. The left shoe also contains a metal shell to make your foot

appear rigid during the lift. Your right shoe is gaffed so that it can lift your left shoe.Before

constructing the shoes/ carefully read all the directions twice so that you fully understand them.

If you don't, you may go through a lot of shoes.

MATERIALS

A. 1 pair of sneakers, one half she larger than you normally wear. The kind i use are

Converse® All Star High Tops, available just about anywhere. There are several reasons I

decided on this brand. First, they are classics, and never go out of style. They are unisex and

sized to fit all ages; anyone reading this manuscript will be able to find a pair that works. They

are extremely common, and therefore less suspicious. They have a flat sole, which aids in the

illusion. The walls of the shoe are thin, giving you more room inside. Most important, they

provide great ankle support, making it easier to perform

"the move."

B. A 2"X 5/8" steel connector available at any hardware store. It should look

something like this:

C: A steel Phillips head screw 3/8" long. It should be able to fir through one of the holes in the

connector without falling through.

D. Strong flexible adhesive, I use Shoe Goop©, available at most hardware and department

stores.

E. A 1' XTpiece of sheet metal- This should be thin and flexible enough to bend and shape, but

strong enough to retain its shape. You can also use stiff yet flexible plastic, I use plastic cut from

a children' s snow sled/ the kind that s just a sheet of plastic rol

led up.

F. Thin black socks

G. Flat black spray paint

H, Rubber bands.

I, Crazy Glue

TOOLS

Work loves

Tin snips

An Exacto® knife with a wide strong blade, or utility knife

Phillips head screwdriver

A hacksaw

A metal file

Sandpaper for metal

CONSTRUCTION

NOTE: SOME OF THE TOOLS YOU’LL BE USING ARE EXTREMELY

SHARP THEY SHOULD ONLY BE USED BY AN ADULT WHO IS FAMILIAR

WITH THEIR USE PLEASE BE CAREFUL- YOUR FINGERS ARE YOUR

FRIENDS!

STEP 1 : Remove the inner sole from the left shoe. This sounds easy, but is probably the

hardest part of the construction. (When shopping for the sneakers, check different pairs to

see which has an inner sole with more "give.' ) Remove the laces from the shoo to give you

more room to get your fingers' inide. While pulling the inner sole out you may have to make

cuts with the Exacto© knife to cut the glue that holds it down. Be patient - it will come out

eventually.

Once the inner sole is removed you should be looking at the dark brown rubber material

that matches the bottom of the shoe.

STEP 2: Cut a hole in the bottom of the shoe, {See Appendix A), The size of the hole will

depend on your shoe size. The template just gives you an idea of where to cut on your shoe.

Make sure to leave a small ledge at the top as shown on the diagram. This ledge lets you flatten

the shoe to the ground with your left big toe, before and after the levitation. I was able to cut a

slit with an Exacto® knife, them work a strong pair of kitchen shears into the slit to make the

cuts. (If you' re having trouble? with this step take the shoe to a cobbler and explain what you

need - he' ll probably be able to help you.) Turn the (oft shoe over and cut out the bottom of the

shoe as shown below. No one will see this part of the shoe; it doesn' t have to look pretty. STEP

Strong scissors or shears

3: Looking at the bottom of the shoe, make two slits as shown below:

STEP 4: Now cut a shell out of the sheet metal, or plastic. This shell will fit inside the front and

sides of the shoe to give it support and retain its shape during the levitation. It' s impossible to

give you exact measurements for this because everyone’s shoe size is different. Appendix B in

the back of the book has a template for a size 8 1/2 sneaker. You will have to make yours

larger or smaller depending on your shoe size. Once you under stand how it works, you' ll be

able to make adjustments to fit your size.

Cut out the size you need using the tin snips. Be careful of the sharp edges. Next, file

and sand the edges of the metal so that it can' t cut youwhile you' re wearing the shoes. Now,

carefully bend a curve to match the natural curve of the shoe, Place the shell inside the shoe

and check to see if it fits snugly against the shoe and follows the natural curve. Make

adjustments as necessary. Lace up the shoe and try it on while wearing one of the black socks

to see how it fits. Make sure the shell doesn' t dig into your foot or cause discomfort.

STEP 5: Once you' re satisfied the shell fits properly, glue it inside the sneaker using Shoe

then wrap some rubber bands around the sneaker and shell to hold them lightly together. Let

dry in a well-ventilated area overnight. (Refer to the manufacturer' s directions fr drying times,

temperatures, etc.)

STEP 6: Cut the metal connecting strip with a hacksaw, It should be 5/8" x 1 5/8". File and

sand the edges smooth. Round off the edges as shown below:

STEP 7: Paint the strip flat black and let dry.

STEP 8: Turning to the right shoe, locate a raised ridge in the white rubber on the left

side. Go down about a quarter of an inch and mark this spot. Screw the plate to the

bottom of the shoe about a quarter of an inch in from the edge. The plate should be

secure against the bottom of the shoe, yet still be able to swing out from under the shoe

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