6004_Azalea_Dress_In.pdf

PATTERN

1 Front yoke 2x

2 Front 1x

3 Upper front 1x

4 Back yoke 2x

5 Back 1x

6 Upper back 1x

7 Belt 2x

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as

far as necessary. Even out the side edges.

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: this is the center of a pattern piece

but in no case a cut edge or a seam. This piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the center line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the

cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

Paper cut for US Letter (8 ½” X 11”) or ANSI A

(German DIN A4) prints :

The cut parts are printed out on 40 sheets with a thin frame.

Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets in

such a way as they fit together (see extra page with the

overview of the prints). Cut off the single sheets in each

case in the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines.

Begin, with the left lower sheet and then glue together

precisely the parts in the frame lines.

Select your size according to the Burda size chart: Dresses,

blouses, jackets and coats after the bust size, Trousers and

skirts according to the hip width. Adjust the pattern pieces,

if necessary, by adding or subtracting the difference

between your measurements and the size measurements

given in the Burda chart.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the

pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to

the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are

facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side.

The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram,

extending over the fold of the fabric, should be cut last from

a single layer of fabric.

Fabric I, fabric II and fabric III

Cut pieces 1, 4 and 7 of fabric I, pieces 3 and 6 of fabric II,

pieces 2 and 5 of fabric III.

= see cutting diagrams on the pattern.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ADDITIONS are included on the

pattern pieces:

5/8” (1.5 cm) in all edges and seams. 1 5/8” (4 cm) for

hem.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If

you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit

your size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here".

Thus the fit is preserved. Make sure that you adjust all

pieces of one model by the same amount at the same lines.

Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer all pattern lines and

markings to the wrong side of the fabric pieces.

You find instructions in the packet.

INTERFACING

Cut interfacing as illustrated and press on the left

side of the fabric pieces.

SEWING

When sewing, right sides of fabric should be

facing.

Transfer all pattern lines to the right side of the

fabric.

DRESS

Bust darts

1) Press bust darts in the front and stitch all the

way to the apex. Knot threads. Press darts flat,

towards the hem.

Side seams / left side slit

2) Lay front piece on back piece with right sides

facing and pin side seams. Stitch right side seam.

Stitch l eft seam from zipper notch (indicated with

arrow on drawing) to the bottom. Secure seam

ends. Leave slit where zipper will be inserted still

basted. Neaten and press allowances. Open

basting stitch at the slit.

Upper front and back

Stitch side seams (seam 4) according to text and

drawing. Apply slit allowances.

3) To gather, stitch upper edge twice, side by side

with long, wide stitches, leaving a long tail of

thread at both ends. To adjust gathers, pull under

thread (bobbin thread) to the width of the front

and back. Knot threads. Space out the gathers

evenly.

4) Pin upper dress’s wrong side to the right side of

the dress; side seams meet. Pin upper gathered

edges on top of each other.

5) Cut a notch in the upper dress from the slit sign

close to the seam (arrow) and turn the slit edges

inwards (5a). Pin allowances of the dress and

upper dress on top of each other and neaten.

Yoke / right side seam

6) Apply front to back yoke with right sides

facing, stitch right side seam (seam 1). Stitch

yoke and interfacing along the side seam. Press

allowances.

Stitch yoke

Apply allowances to the slit.

7) Pin yoke without interfacing, with right sides

facing, on the upper dress edge, right side seams

meet. Stitch. Trim and press allowances.

Zipper

Baste allowances at the slit inwards.

8) Place zipper under the slit edges, so that it is

just covered. Stitch zipper with the zipper foot.

Sewing the Yokes Together

Press the yoke's shoulder edge seam allowances

including the interfacing inwards.

9) Pin yokes together, right sides facing; side

seams meet. Fold allowances at the zipper

inwards. Baste necklines and sleeve lines

together and stitch. Trim allowances, cut v-

shapes clips in armhole and neckline curves to

turn out yoke. Turn Yoke. Baste edges, press.

Press inner lower yoke edge seam allowance

inwards, apply to the seam of the bottom part of

the dress, pin. Topstitch from the right side of

the dress along the seam, to finish the inner

yoke (9a).

Shoulder Seams

10) Lay fronts right sides together with back.

Baste shoulder seams (seam 2). Stitch shoulder

seams. Trim allowances.

11) Press allowances inwards. Stitch the yoke’s

shoulder edges by hand.

Hemline

12) Press hemline of dress and upper dress, fold

and baste. Stitch hemline narrowly.

Belt

Place belt halves together, right sides facing,

stitch middle seam. Press allowances.

13) Fold belt at the Center line , right side

inside. Stitch along edges, leaving an open

space to turn. Secure seam ends. Trim

allowances, cut corners diagonally. Turn belt

inside out. Pin edges, press and topstitch

besides the seam.

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