Vanessa Skirt instructions.pdf

PATTERN

CUTTING OUT:

1 Right front skirt panel 1x

2 Left front skirt panel 1x

3 Back center skirt panel 1x

4 Right back side skirt panel 1x

5 Left back side skirt panel 1x

6 Pleated skirt panel 2x

7 Belt 1x

8 Front trimming 1x

9 Back trimming 1x

10 Front lining skirt panel 1x

11 Back lining skirt panel 1x

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the centre line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the

cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the

pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to

the right side of the fabric. For double layers of fabric, the

right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to

the left side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting

diagram, extending over the fold of the fabric, should be cut

last from a single layer of fabric.

Important: Trim the skirt pattern pieces from the single

layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side

of the fabric, the labeled pattern side on top = see cutting

diagram

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints :

The patterns are printed out on 40 sheets with a thin frame.

Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so

that they fit together (see extra page with the overview of

the prints). Cut off the single sheets on the upper and right

edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower

sheet and then glue the parts in the frame lines together

precisely.

Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table:

Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust

size, trousers and skirts according to the hip width. Change

the patterns according to size ( inches or cm) if necessary,

to fit your measurements if they deviate from the Burda-

dimension table.

TRIMMING FABRIC

Pleated pattern piece (Piece 6) needs to be cut twice from

the trimming fabric. = See cutting diagram

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included

on an average:

5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and seams. Use BURDA carbon

paper to transfer all pattern lines and markings to the left

side of the fabric pieces. You will find instructions in the

packet.

LINING: Cut lining according to pattern pieces 10 and 11

= see cutting diagram

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

Interfacing

Cut interfacing according to the drawing and

press onto the left fabric side

SEWING

When sewing the right fabric sides are

facing.

Transfer all lines on the pattern using a

basting stitch to the right fabric side.

Belt

1) Fold the belt along the FOLD LINE, belt

fabric inside out. Pin and stitch edges on top

of each other according to drawing. Trim

allowances, cut corners diagonally. Turn belt.

Baste edges, press and stitch narrowly. Baste

open belt end between the cross lines of the

right front skirt panel (1a). At the other belt

end, approximately 3/4” (1.5 cm) next to the

edge; incorporate a button hole.

Front dividing seam

2) Position front skirt panels facing right to

the right, baste dividing seam (seam 1) and

stitch, doing so enclose the belt between the

panels. Trim allowances, neaten altogether

and press inwards into the left front panel.

Front skirt panel / pleats

3) Fold the right front skirt panel in such a

way as to make the lines indicated by an

arrow in the drawing meet, the right fabrics

sides inside. Baste lines from the top to

bottom one on top of the other.

Back dividing seams

4) Position back side skirt panels onto the

back center skirt panel facing right to the

right, baste dividing seams from the top to

bottom (seam 2), stitch from the top

downwards to the slit mark. Secure seam

ends. Neaten allowances and trimmings, Fold

and press apart (4a). Open basting stitches

from the pleats and slit.

Fold inwards and baste the seam of the back

skirt panels and the pleated piece, press.

Stitch seam of the pleated piece 3/8” (1 cm)

from the edge.

Pleated pieces

Neaten edges. Paste pleat lines using basting

stitches to the right fabric side.

5) Pin the lines connected through an arrow

and drawn on the right side of the fabric, one

on top of the other, Press. Stitch pleats at the

top edge.

6) Pin pleated piece onto facing of the slit

right to the right. Stitch side edges on top of

the other. Stitch top edges one on top of the

other, beginning in the center of the edges.

Side seams / left slit

Fold the seam of the left back skirt panel

back to the outside. Neaten seam of the right

front skirt panel, turn inwards, baste.

7) Position the front skirt panel onto the back

skirt panel facing right to the right. Baste side

seams. Stitch right side seam (seam 3). Stitch

left side seam from the slit mark downwards

to the bottom (seam 4). Secure seam ends.

Leave slit basted.

Trim the allowances of the right side seam

and neaten altogether. Neaten the allowances

along the left side seams and press apart.

Zipper

Open Basting stitches from the slit.

8) Baste the zipper under the slit edges in

such a way as to assure that the little teeth are

covered. Stitch zipper using the zipper

tootsies.

Neaten remaining seam , baste inwards,

press. Stitch seam. Stitch seam 1/2” wide

from the edge.

Pleat / right side seam

9) Position front skirt panel onto the back

skirt panel facing right to the right, baste

pleat lines from the top to the bottom one on

top of the other, and stitch from the top to the

arrow in the drawing. Secure seam ends.

Stitch pleat depth diagonally one on top of

the other. Apply and press pleat depth to the

front skirt panel, baste the top (9a)

Lining skirt

Baste darts of the front and back skirt panel

and stitch peaked. Press darts towards the

front and back center.

Waistband

10) Baste waistband onto the front lining

skirt panel (seam 5) facing right to the right.

Trim allowances, neaten altogether and press

inwards into the lining. Then stitch waistband

onto the back lining skirt panel.

Side seams / slits

11) Position front skirt panel onto the back

skirt panel facing right to the right, baste side

seams (seam 6). Stitch seams, at the same

time leaving the slit open and do the same

with the left side seam (like the skirt) the slit

for the zipper (arrows). Secure the seam

ends. Trim the seam ends. Neaten the

allowances and press apart. Open the basting

stitches from the slit.

Lining the skirt

12) Pin the waistband of the onto the top

skirt edge facing right to the right; Side

seams meet. Stitch. Trim allowances and

press inwards into the waistband. Stitch the

waistband narrowly along the seam, also

stitch the allowances (12a). Baste the

waistband and in the same step the lining

inwards, press. Stitch slit edges onto the

zipper bands (12b)

13) Apply BUTTON onto the dividing seam.

Button up the belt.

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