Costa Blanca- Gandia, Toix, Penyo d'Ifach, Sella, Foradada, Agulles Rotges, Alcoi (topo) Hiszpania, España.pdf

Fax07 - COSTA BLANCA

UPDATE

Version 3 - 21 March 2000

ACCESS PROBLEMS

Page 24 - Gandia Access.

The land owners (of the area below the crag) have erected No Entry/Private Property signs on the

approach to Gandia. It is not clear if this refers to the path through the orchard or the whole crag in gener-

al. The people who supplied this information managed to reach the crag using another path but please be

aware that there may be a problem developing here. ; I have since heard that the old path is still func-

tioning.

CONTENTS

; Page 57 - Olta Access.

A new sign has been added which effectively bans access to the track up to the crag. The track has also

deteriorated dramatically and is now very hard going. Effectively you now need to park at the station and

walk up to the crag which is a bloody long way - 45 minutes or so.

ACCESS PROBLEMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

GENERAL CORRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Page by page listing of amendments

Page 77 - Mascarat Parking.

Construction work is taking place all over Pueblo Mascarat. Large kerbs have been laid on both sides of

the road near the parking area by the bridge for the gorge routes making it impossible to get off the road

(even in a hire car!). The alternative is to either continue along the parking place for the sea cliffs and walk

back or, drive towards Pueblo Mascarat and bear right down a rough track towards the beach. Just before

the beach double back to the right on to a track which can be followed back up the gorge to the road

bridge (unless heavy rain is forecast!). NOTE: it looks like they could be building villas all over this area so

get the routes done now while you can still reach them.

GANDIA SECTOR FINAL TOPO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

GANDIA SECTOR LA CUEVA TOPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

TOIX TV and OESTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

21 new routes at Toix TV. Topo for Toix Oeste Lower

Page 116 - Sella Sector Wild Side Parking.

See the new topo on page 10.

PENON d’IFACH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Two big routes on the Penon including New Dimensions.

Page 131 - Pena Rubia Approach.

A fancy gate has been constructed on the approach to this crag (at the point where the roads become

wide on the map) which is closed for access. There is apparently a way around the gate to the left on a

dirt track but how long this will be possible is uncertain

NEW SELLA TOPOS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Sector Marion, Sector Competicion and Sector Odja de Odra redrawn with ten new routes.

SELLA SECTOR WILD SIDE TOPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

FORADA SOUTH FACE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Sector Petorri and Descote redrawn.

AGUJAS ROJAS by Karen Yeow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Full topos and approach details for this crag.

Thanks to the following who have all contributed to this information:

Johnny Adams, Karen Yeow, Kevin Davey, Steve Anthony, Neil Foster, Richard Sewards, Dave

Douglas, Richard Fox, Ian Henderson, Dave Musgrove, Filpini Frank, Bridget and Jeremy ?, Andreas

Polster, John Zangwill, Chris Heald, Philippa Poland, John Smith, Chris Gore, Nick Easton, Paul Green,

Lisa Curry, David Chadwick, Howard Jones, Guy Maddox, Stuart Greenall, Carl Dawson, Sebastian

Schwertner, Sami Salonen, Stefan Ringmann, John Tombs, Craig Smith, Molly Heitz, Jane Grundy,

Lewis Grundy, Andy Jones, Dave Ranby, Paul Brooks, Simon Brown, Nick Longland, Jon Read, Roger

Everett, Steve Swygart, Alan Cameron-Duff, Simon Jinks, Andrew Roberts, Rick Kruze, Giles Stone,

John Cardy, Iain Mann, Mark Bull, Chris Sims, Jon Pearson, Mandy Payne, Tim Seaborne, Bob

Bennett, Rowland Edwards, Don Roscoe, Martin Crocker, John Harwood, Karen Beattie, Bill Pattison,

Doug Reid, Martin Cooper, Steve Green. Sorry to anyone I have missed off.

BLUE TEXT - Further information at the end of document

; RED TEXT - Additions since Version 2 update on 15/12/99

? GREEN TEXT - This appears where we are short of information. Please amend copies and send back

details like route lines and grades where you see the green question mark.

Costa Blanca Update 21/3/00

GENERAL CORRECTIONS

Page 58 - Olta.

; SEE ACCESS PROBLEM ON PAGE 1.

There are four new routes at this crag. Tao is the

crack left of Wings of Freedom - grade unknown

but not that hard.

Mulan is the wall left of Tai Chi - fingery 7a+.

Das Buch der Sringe is left of Turron - grade 4 but

possibly harder (6a) if you go too far left.

Breakthrough is right of Christmas Dreams - 4

Some of these grade 4s at Olta are thought to be

a bit stiff by many climbers.

; In Winter the sun goes off this crag in the early

afternoon.

Page 63 - Penon South Face - New Route.s

Full descriptions for two big routes including a topo

for the amazing New Dimensions - page 8.

Page 39 - Salem - Sector Sol i Bon Temps.

; The cave by Route 1 - Akelarre now has three

new routes all with bright red bolts. They look good

on steep tufas, probably all in the upper 7s.

; Route 7 is worth high 6b.

Route 15 has a hard start but is easy above - only

worth 6c.

Route 16 is probably worth 7b and has a desper-

ate third clip.

; Route 17 is hard for 6a+ and is only 1 star.

; Page 65 - Gomez Cano.

This route is a big mountain route and if you

attempt it don’t expect clean rock and perfect

bolts. Also take a lot of water with you and allow a

more than four hours unless you are a super-fast

team. A few additional points to mention:

1) the more accurate grades are given with the

text rather than in the route title although the last

pitch is probably worth 6a+.

2) the 7b/A1 pitch is a bolt ladder not a one-move

quick pull hence a sling for an foot stirrup is useful.

3) the ‘small bay’ on pitch 4 has been described as

a “sloping shale beach” by one ascensionist, with

lots of loose rock.

4) Belay above the chimney on pitch 8 to reduce

rope-drag.

Page 25 - Gandia - Approach.

It is better to mention Albaida instead of Alimones

on the approach turnings since there are more

signs to Albiada.

Page 28 - Gandia - Sector Vici.

Route 3 - Gora ETA and Route 3 - Nina de

Porcelana need switching however Nina still trav-

erses left to the lower-off on Fissure Tal...

Page 45 - Aventador - Approach.

The approach description on this page is a bit of a

mess. Use the Gandia approach and follow signs

towards Albiada, on the CV610, off the ring road.

Then pick up the description at "After 12km ...."

The C322 has changed number to the CV612.

Page 60 - Penon South Face Comment.

Several people have pointed out that the estimated

time of four hour for an ascent is a bit optimistic.

Allow 6 hours for most parties especially on UBSA

and Valencianos .

Page 29 - Gandia - Sector Fundicio.

Route 21 is only 6c+.

Page 30 - Gandia - Sector Final new topo.

See page 5.

Page 61 - Penon North Face Access.

There is a notice at the environment centre which

prohibits climbing on the north and north-west

walls during April, May and June. This affects

routes 1 to 3 on page 61. It is not clear if the May-

September ban given in the guide is still correct.

Page 47 - Aventador - Sector Caruso.

The routes just to the right of the cave are a bit

stiff for their grades. This could be due to them

being a bit steeper than the routes further right.

There is also some confusion about lines here

which may be caused by the word 'Astolfo' being

painted on the rock underneath the wrong route

according to the guidebook.

Page 65 - Diedro UBSA.

Some find pitch 4 the crux of the whole route so

maybe at least 5+ is warranted.

The abseil on pitch 8 is nearer 8m than 20m but

also note that you need to swing some distance to

the left (looking in) to reach the twin bolt belay.

Page 32 - Gandia - Upper Section.

The line marked on the topo left of Route 9 is now

a route. Grade unknown.

Route 9 - Cellas Cortos is probably 6b but it is also

worth three stars.

New route - Route 16a is a worthwhile 6a.

Route 17 - Kamari is worth two stars.

Page 61 - Penon North Face.

The route Pany has suffered a major rock-fall which

has left a lot of loose rubble on it. A massive area of

rock has fallen from the right of the corner of pitch 4

scattering debris, earth and torn up bushes over all

of the easy angle section below. The section cov-

ered in rubbish is dangerous and unpleasent and

the described pitch 4 looks very unsafe. Instead of

traversing left on pitch 3 into the remains of the cor-

ner, climb straight up the pleasant wall at the start of

the traverse to rejoin the route where it comes back

right, just after the stance at the top of pitch 4. This

wall is about Spanish grade 4+/5 and reasonably

well protected with nuts.

; Page 69 - Toix Este.

Route 11 - Winter is 35m long so take care when

lowering off.

Route 13 is called Spolli and is marked by red

splodges.

Route 29 is only 7c and involves some slate-like

slab climbing.

Page 49 - Sector Navarro.

Route 52 - Pase Millions is poor and probably

harder than 6b.

Gandia - Sector La Cueva topo.

See page 6.

Page 34 - Salem - Approach.

The correct road from the Gandia ring road is the

first turn off, not the second as it says in the text.

The road number is CV60.

Also - the note about bolts being removed from

Sector Estival is now incorrect since some have

been added recently to the bold lower moves.

Page 51 - Jalón Valley - Alcalali.

; There is a long new line well to the left of the

main crag which is probably around 6a+.

Route 2 is an excellent sustained route with a fin-

gery finish - low 7b+. Route 4 is probably 7b if you

climb straight up the tufa. A good 7a+ variation fol-

lows the wall on the right of the mid-height tufa.

Page 70 - Toix Oeste.

Route 1 - Amarilla has had its bolts chopped on

pitch 2.

Page 71 - Toix Oeste.

Route 11 - The Blue Route actually goes leftwards

through the top bulge in a good podition.

Route 13 (to the right of Dire Straits ) is a good fully

bolted grade 4, 3+. Pitch 2 might be 4+ if you fol-

low it to the upper double bolts and don’t lower-off

the single. Both pitches are 30m. Make 2 abseils

to descend.

There is a route between Routes 16 and 17 ,

Renov 5- is painted on the rock. Pitch 1 is up a

broken groove. Pitch 2 is up the slab above, tra-

versing to lower-off bolts on 13. The grade is more

like 4, 4+.

Route 19 has its own lower-off.

See also new routes on Toix TV Lower - page 7.

Page 37 - Salem - Sector Frigorific.

Several people have commented that if you come

to Salem and just sample the routes on this sector

then you will think this is a poor crag. The hot tip is

to try the routes on Bon I Temps or Complicacions

first despite the temptaion of Frigorific being so

close to the car.

Hay No Billettes has its own lower-off slightly left-

wards and over the top of the crag.

Page 52 - Jalón Valley - Lliber - Left.

You can now drive all the way to the olive grove.

There is a new pipeline which will hopefully have

put and end to the random floods down the water

channel. Route 6 - Agarrate como Puedas is a 7a

dyno but is probably impossible for shorties. This

move is also used to start Route 5 .

Page 63 - Penon South Face - Valencianos.

I have received enough comments to make me

think that this route is a bit undergraded in the

Rockfax. Chris Craggs probably has it about right

with pitch grades as follows - 3, 3, 5+, 4, 4, 4 then

two easy climb-out pitches.

To reduce stone fall risk you may want to take the

following option for the first two pitches:

1) 35m. Climb first rightwards and then back left to

a slab. Belay on the left on bolts. (ie. out of the

way of stonefall in the corner).

2) 40m. Move up left past bushes to gain a ledge

running back right above the slab. Then easily up into

an earthy corner and ledge. Bolt belay on left wall.

3) Climb the blocky corner...........etc.

Page 53 - Jalón Valley - Lliber - Right.

Route 5 - La Bella is worth 7b and probably even

harder for shorties.

Page 55 - L’Ocaive.

There is an un-named pleasent, fully bolted chim-

ney/groove immediately left of Route 6 , Aluncia

con la esquina . - 4+.

Costa Blanca Update 21/3/00

COSTA BLANCA - Corrections continued...

Improved description for The Edwards Finish

1) Scramble onto the tower in front of the main

face.

2) 4 25m. Climb over the tower until a second, one

comes into view and go around that on the left to

the col between the main face and the towers.

3) 4+ 25m. Climb up the slab on the main face

moving right to a flatish plateau at its top. After

scampering up the plateau for 15m

4) 4+ 25m. Directly climb the wall to the top, trend-

ing leftwards slightly at the top to reach a tree.

The rib leads to the top.

Page 72 - Toix West - Lower.

See page 7 for a topo

5) 5+ 35m. Climb the polished groove (old pegs,

one new bolt) and continue in the same line to

belay (threads, old bolt).

6) 4+ 30m. Climb the wall above and left of the

belay, then trend rightwards (pegs - optional bolt

belay down and right) to the arete. Go round

the arete and traverse right to exposed stance.

7) 4 35m. Continue traversing right to a groove -

climb this and slabs above to the top.

; Descent for Via UPSA If you continue to the

top there are two more excellent easy pitches, a

super scramble and a lovely ridge walk across the

top. To descend you have to traverse the whole

ridge until you reach a villa building site, descend

through this then traverse back across the

mountain to the normal descent gully. Instead of

going down the normal descent gully, keep to the

south of it and follow the bounding ridge and

scramble down the hillside to join the road by the

first tunnel entrance on the approach from Altea.

Page 91 - Echo Placa.

General comments. The crag is in a superb loca-

tion but the routes are big trad routes so expect

loose rock, long approach thrashes and tricky

descents.

Clearer Approach Description - From junction 65

on the A7 (by the Mammoth supermarket) take the

Callosa - Polop road northwards. In the centre of

Polop turn leftwards towards Guadalest. Follow

this uphill for 4.5km (500m after the 4km milepost)

and turn left onto a dirt track. Follow this track for

3.8km (this can be done in a car if it hasn't rained

recently) to a white building where the track starts

to descend. There is a chained off track on the

right; park here if you are still in your car. Walk up

this for 1.5km until you are below the wall. Route

Notes. Large Friends needed for pitch 5 of Luna

Sombre .

Here are some comments on The Forth Addition

"The rock is worrying, the climbing is poor and the

approach and finishing sections are awful. It is

also unbalanced, with the crux pitch being much

harder than graded. Definitely one to miss, we'd

have been better off going for a walk". - Roger

Everett

Page 75 - Toix TV - Lower Wall and First Wall

See page 7 for many new routes.

Page 78 - Toix Sea Cliffs - Candelabra....

Roland’s Magical Mystery Tour is possibly a bit

easier than 5 but you may need to add a bit for the

situation. The belay at the end of pitch 2 has been

moved down so the description for pitch 3 should

be - "Move right and climb a rib..." instead of left.

Pitches are about 10m, 15m, 30m. There are ENP

placements on the belays at the end of pitches 1

and 2. These require a Rock 2 or similar.

; Candelabra del Sol can be climbed in one long

pitch. It is a superb route but the most amazing

thing is that it is in fact 7b+ and not 8a as claimed.

Another alternative finish:

From the finish of Espolon Central, scramble up to

a narrow ridge with massive drops on the south

side. Follow the ridge (exposed in places) to about

10m in front of a large tower in front of the main

face. Easier variations are usually available on the

north side of the ridge to this point.

The Fewell Finish

1) 50m. Climb across the ridge to the tower then

skirt it on the left (north) into a gully, climb

to gully to the col.

2) 30m. Stand on top of the boulders on the col

and climb rightwards across a steep slab to

a vegetated ledge. Now climb the rib on the left of

the vegetation and on the right of the blank

face. This leads to a good ledge with a solid thread

at its centre.

3) 35m. Climb up into a depression above the right

hand side of the ledge then traverse

rightwards to a point below a flake crack. Climb

straight up via the flake crack to a good ledge

with a solid thread just above head height.

4) 50m. Escape from the right-hand side of the

ledge, when faced with a choice of going right

or left go left and scramble up to the area of trees.

Descent - Continue over the top (ignore a cairn

down to the right (seaward side)). Then

scramble down into the square-cut col which is the

distinctive feature of this mountain’s profile.

The path from here is vague, there are some small

cairns occasionally which help. From the

northern end of the col scramble down steeply to

the right (towards the sea). All being well you

will find an abseil anchor at the top of a via ferrata.

One 25m abseil is required. Now contour

round to the north and drop down a gully to the

main descent gully. Boots or hard soled crag

approach shoes strongly recommended for the

descent of this horrible scree gully.

Page 79 - Toix Sea Cliffs.

There is a bolted line up the line of the 50m abseil.

Slabby start steepening to a hard crux move, with

a fair amount of rope-drag, to reach the abseil

ledge. El Dorado 1.5 is almost certainly closer to

the real line of El Dorado 2 . The following combi-

nation gives the best pitches.

1) 6a Follow the dots of Route 9 to belay in the

crack (between the two belays marked).

2) 6b Climb the crack and amazingly featured wall

above to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay way

back up left. Take lots of slings for the threads on

pitch 2. The line out right is an escape pitch with a

fair amount of loose rock and hardly any fixed

gear.

Page 82 - Mascarat.

Terminar has been re-bolted (for the first 3 pitches

at least) and you don’t need a rack for these. You

can descend down the back of the hill through the

tunnel from this point.

Gede is now fully bolted apart from the easy last

pitch (take a few wires) and is very worthwhile.

Pitches 2 and 3 are longer and better than sug-

gested in the guide and pitch 4 is the crux pitch at

probably 6a "an overhanging soapy flake" although

it can be easily aided if necessary.

; Page 94 - Puig Campana Approach.

The road into Finestrat is for residents only.

Instead follow the main road around the village

and then turn right before turning left into the road

for Font de Moli. This by-pass road isn’t marked on

the map on page 94 but it is the obvious way and

also the way you drive towards Sella.

; Page 83 - Mascarat.

Aurora pitch 4 is probably worth 6a. The optional

finish (shared with Montesinos ) is loose and above

the road.

Page 95 - Espolon Central - Descent.

The descent route from Espolon Central is now

rigged with wire cable, via ferrata fashion, on some

(but not all) of the harder and more exposed

moves.

Improved description for Espolon Central - Direct

Start ? I don’t quite follow this description so if

anyone can supply a better one then please do.

One thing is clear and that is that it joins the nor-

mal route after 3 pitches and not 5 as in the book.

1) 3 35m. Start to the left of the flat oval area of

rock. Climb a ramp up left.

2) 4+ 35m. Climb left across the groove and up

the arete to a ledge.

3) 4 25m. Move up and right to join the original

route at a big ledge coming from the left.

; Page 80 - Via UPSA.

In general the route is easy to follow as long as

you look out for the bolts-without-hangers. A full

rack is definitely needed to back up some of the

belays. 2 to 3 stars is correct for an alpine-style

route, but considering there's no reliable gear left,

it might be tough going for beginners.

Here is an improved description.

1) 3 40m. Follow the easiest line up the pillar to

belays under steeper rock.

2) 4 35m. Follow the cracked rib above the belay

to where the ridge levels out

3) 2 35m. Scramble easily up the ridge to grassy

terrace. Walk along terrace to peg belay at foot of

upper wall, below and L of a groove.

4) 4+ 40m. Climb up and right to the foot of the

groove, and climb it for 2-3m before pulling round

onto the right edge (bolt). Follow a line of

cracks up the wall to threads (poss belay), and tra-

verse right to peg and thread belay.

Page 87 - Altea.

Route 6 - Green, is harder possibly 6b+.

; Route 7 - Yellow, is only 5+.

The approach to this crag is now fully tarmaced.

Apartments are now being built opposite the crag.

You will struggle to lower-off routes 6 to 10 with a

60m rope so please take great care. Abseil if in

doubt.

Page 88 - Altea Col.

Route 5 - Entre dos tierras is more like 7a or 7b for

the hideous start.

Route 6 - Walking on the Milkyway is 6c for the

start, 6a+ above.

Route 7 - Salva Mea is still a project. Apologies to

Jens Muenchberg for describing it as a route. It will

be harder than 7c.

Costa Blanca Update 21/3/00

COSTA BLANCA - Corrections continued...

; Page 126 - Alcoy

Route 3 is worth a star and 6a.

Route 4 is worth 6a+.

Route 5 is worth a star and 6a+.

Routes 7 and 8 may well have been de-bolted or

never have been there in the first place.

Route 12 is probably worth 6a+.

Route 13 is very hard - 7b at least!

Route 17 is also very hard (7b or more) and there

is no photo any more.

Routes 31 to 35 hace high first bolts.

Page 98 - Aguja Encantada - El Diamante.

The alternative 7a start to El Diamante is sparsely

bolted - gear is needed. The normal first pitch is

about 50m rather than 30m, and it is best to split it

to avoid drag. It is also poor and vegetated.

Page 116 - Sella - Sector Wild Side.

See page 11 for a redraw.

Page 117 - Sella - Outlying.

Just before the Second Edition went to the printers

someone who had climbed these routes told me

that they were very hard and sharp and not worth

three stars.

Page 147 - Salinas - Sector La Higuera.

Route 4 - Babieca is soft touch at 7b+, more like

7b.

Page 105 - Sella - Culo de Rino - Right.

There are two new routes between Route 2 - Los

Refugiados and Route 3 - Via del Indio .

Left Diestra Siniestra - 5 and right Y Golpe de

Porrazo - 5. Diestra Siniestra starts where Los

Refugiados is marked on the topo and is hard for

Page 149 - Salinas - Sector Picara Viborita Left.

; Route 6 - Ponsela is worth 6a and should be

climbed direct up the scoop.

Amonite doesn't have a hard start and is probably

only 5+, it is Ali Baba ... (route 12) which has a

hard start - possibly 6b.

Page 118 - Top approach to the Divino.

Someone has said that all the distances quoted in

the approach description should be 0.4km less. It

may be that the 2 people who measured it for me

started at points 400m apart. ie. If there is no dirt

track at 4km, turn right at 4.4km.

; Page 129 - Reconco Approach

It may be possible now to approach the crag via

the second track.

Page 107 - Sella - Techo del Rino.

New first pitch to Cardo Borriquero up the crack

between routes 8 and 10. One report of 6a and

another of 6b, let's call it 6a+.

NOTE you can't reach the ground from the top of

Cardi Borriquero on a 60m rope.

New route right of Route 13 - No Me Bajes :

El Torronet - 6a, worth 2 stars.

; Page 150 - Salinas - Sector Picara Viborita

Right.

Route 25 has a new lower-off up and left but the

original finish is still the best.

; Page 130 - Reconco.

The extra routes mentioned on page 130 are well

worth seeking out. They are on a small buttress

down and right from the main face at Reconco ( ?

more accurate approach details needed) . The wall

is well sheltered which is useful if you are getting

blown off Reconco.

There are six routes;

1) 7a, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b+/6c, 4) 6b+, 5) 6a+, 6) 6a+

Page 119 - Sella - El Elephante.

This impressive crag is worth a visit if you lead 6c

or above. The routes are curiously geared so take

a rack with you. Once on them, they give can

superb and intricate climbing.

The Naked Edge can be done on one 60m rope

and gives an immaculate sustained pitch. Once at

the top belay, pull your rope through, drop an end

and pull up another rope to abseil off on. This is

better than splitting it since the belay is poor and

the second section is more than 30m anyway.

Split Gran Fisura at the (in-place) half-height belay

since it is at least 60m.

Route 8 - Project is a good 7a+ wall climb to the

first lower-off.

Route 5 - Edwards Wall , is only 7b to the first

lower-off.

Route 2 - Scorpion is better split at what is

described as the mini lower-off, and not at the

higher stance.

Page 156 - Forada - Sector Super Heroes.

Route 1 left of Tundra is an immense and endless

route of 8-something difficulty.

The bolt left of Batman now has a route, grade

unknown.

Clipping the 4th bolt on Batman is a bit of a chal-

lenge.

Route - 5 has now been climbed at a dodgy-

sounding 8a+. It is brilliant of course.

There is a silly created route/project up the bulging

right-hand side of the through cave on the left of

Sector Elecciones.

Page 108 - Sella - Sector Marion.

See page 8 for a redraw.

Crag Near Reconco - Agjuas Rojas

Full details on page 11.

Page 109 - Sella - Sector Competition.

See page 9 for a redraw.

; Page 136 - Cabreras - Approach.

Both sets of traffic lights you encounter in Sax,

after leaving the motorway, are now roundabouts.

The junction for Sax in the description is the first

junction on the motorway.

Alternative approach avoiding the town

At first roundabout (marked as traffic lights in the

guide) turn right. Continue along passing below the

Fort up on left. Take the next left (signed El Plano).

Follow this road for approx 400m then turn

right onto narrow lane (again signed El Plano).

From here, continue along a narrow road past the

white house ... as in the book.

Page 110 - Sella - Sector Oja de Orda.

See page 9 for a redraw.

Page 112 and 113 - Sella - Pared de Rosalia.

There has been some activity up here even since

the new topo in Edition 2 so prepare to be a bit

confused. Only brief details are known.

There is a new route/start right of Route 6 .

Routes 10/11 have an upper pitch.

The lone line through holes between Route 12 and

13 is now bolted and looks excellent.

Route 14 must be the longest pitch around since it

virtually reaches the top of the crag in one.

Route 17a is a good 7a up the wall left of the

groove.

Route 18 has a very hard move on it (harder than

a 7b+ on Sector Techo according to my source).

Route 18a is a good 6c+.

; Route 23 - Mujer Lamprea is a superb, fully

bolted mega route which is worth adding to your

tick list.

Page 157 - Forada - Sector Elecciones.

Route 6 - Abstencíon is only 6b+ and Route 7 - La

Fuerza del Parabol is only 6a+.

Page 161 - Forada - South Face.

DO NOT USE THE THROUGH TUNNEL TO

ACCESS THE SOUTH FACE, WALK AROUND

THE BOTTOM.

This is an excellent crag and is very much worth

considering even if you don't climb that hard since

several people have reported having good days

while climbing exclusively on the sunny south face.

The only consideration here is that it isn't too hot.

The views from the crag are wonderful.

Page 121 - The Divino - Sector Pertemba.

I have had several comments about this route, few

of them complimentary.

"Pitch 2 is good, the rest is choss".

The belay after P3 is reputedly very dangerous

with much loose rock perched above it. One per-

son has commented that you can abseil down

Espolón Pertemba but you need 2 long ropes and

some tape to leave behind on some of the

stances. Another person has commented that

there are no pinnacles or flakes on pitch 4. Their

alternative description is "press on up the slabs,

slightly leftwards".

; Page 138 - Cabreras - Penas Del Rey.

There is a new top pitch between the upper lines

10 and 11 at 6a.

Page 145 - Salinas - Approach.

As described for Cabreras, both sets of traffic

lights in Sax are now roundabouts. You need to

turn left at the first - the sign to Salinas is not obvi-

ous - and drive straight on at the second.

Page 161 - Forada - South Face - Sector Petorri

and Descote

See page 11 for a redraw.

Page 121 - Techo Placa.

The start of Voyages is unstable and 6c+. Wires

are required for start of the route Techo Placa .

Page 146 - Salinas - Sector Final.

Route 10 - Donde Dices que Vas is probably more

like 6a+.

Costa Blanca Update 21/3/00

GANDIA - Sector Final - Page 30

17a

17b

4. Tercer Left . . . . . . . . . . . 1x 7b

Climb the orange wall past a hard move then take the left-hand

branch.

4a. Tercer Right . . . . . . . . . . 1x 7b

The right-hand branch.

5. Muluk el Tarqui . . . . . . . . . 3x 7a+

Superb, intricate climbing with a big finish.

6. Sugar Glass . . . . . . . . . . . 1x 7b

Given 7c+ before. Shares start with route 5.

7. Botoia Sakatu . . . . . . . . . . . . x 7c/7c+?

Start left of the recess.

8. Enya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3x 7c

Steep fingery wall right of the big flake.

9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . 2x 7b

Excellent route which is hard to on-sight if you don't find the hid-

den hold.

10. "Twin Bolts" . . . . . . . . . . 1x 7b

Harder than 7a+.

15. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x 8a?

Hard and fingery with a blank section. Known as Jaque Mate

elsewhere.

16. Groceries . . . . . . . . . . . . 2x 7a

An excellent quick and pumpy pitch.

17. A Mano . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2x 6c+

Much pumpier than it looks. Possibly 7a.

17a. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . x 7a/b?

The left-hand line out of the cave.

17b. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . x 7a+

The steep central line has one hard move to leave the glued flake.

GANDIA SECTOR FINAL

There are a few confusing anomalies on this sector which have

hopefully now been cleared up with help from Carl Dawson. One

of the problems seem to be in the route names which are differ-

ent across the local topo, the Rockfax and Chris Craggs guide. I

have stuck with the route names and numbers as per both edi-

tions of Fax07 but some of the lines have changed and there are

three new routes.

The main feature of this wall is the magnificent elephant's trunk

tufa. The next route is just to the left of this.

11. Dos Super Carrozas . . . . . 3x 7a

Brilliant moves past a heart-shaped hole and onto the trunk.

Eases above. DON'T see the photo on the inside back cover 'cos

it ain't there anymore.

12. Don Diego . . . . . . . . . . . 3x 7a

Another great route with a steep start which is okay if you don't

think about it too much.

13. Jaque Mate . . . . . . . . . . 3x 7a+

A powerful start and a bit of a tricky finish, if you are pumped,

which you probably will be.

14. Solta el Mos . . . . . . . . . . 1x 7a+

Less steep but has a (chipped) fingery finish.

The first route is up the left-hand side of a long narrow wall.

1. Maqui Popeye y la Sirla . . . . . . x 6b

Start by a block.

2. Donde Hostias ... . . . . . . .No Bolts

It was a good 6c wall climb..

3. Juputa . . . . . . . . . . . . 1fx 6b

A steep start but the crux pulls are on the thin grey wall right of

the upper corner.

18. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+

Very poor.

Costa Blanca Update 21/3/00

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