Sultanasection8.pdf

Detail of

sling and

halliard

(jeers)

on the

main mast

- Lifts – A generous length of .008 tan rigging line

was used for the lifts. I secured the end of the

line to the single blocks located on the mast

caps. From here they were run through the

remaining single blocks on the ends of each yard

(above the top sail sheets). The running end

was brought back up to the originating single

blocks on the cap so they could be taken down

to the deck. The lifts were belayed to any mast

cleats not yet occupied. On the fore mast I

decided to belay the running ends to the bitts

instead. I thought that the model would look

more interesting this way.

The halliard (.008 tan rigging line) will be secured

to the double block of the sling and reeved

through the double block on the center of the

yard. It would be best to strop the halliard to the

double block of the sling before you place the

sling on the model. This would be very difficult

(as you can imagine) if the sling was already in

position. As you can see, there is quite a maze

of running and standing rigging at this point in the

project. The running end of the halliard was then

taken down to the deck where it passed through

the whip block we placed in front of the mast.

From here it was belayed to a mast cleat and fin-

ished off with a rope coil. The halliard and slings

were fashioned the same way on both the fore

and main masts. See the photo above.

- Braces for the Lower Yards - These were

rigged the same way as the braces for the top

sail yards. Single blocks were seized to the

shrouds just below those used for the top sail

yard braces. The running ends were belayed to

the shroud cleats specified on the plans and

finished off with some rope coils.

Vangs and Back Stays…

Now that most of the rigging has been completed

I felt it was a good time to finally complete the

vangs and back stays. The vangs were only

added to the fore gaff. As mentioned in the kit-

supplied instructions, they most likely were not

used on the main gaff. The vangs were rigged

Vangs on the Fore Gaff

2.5 mm (S)

block

- Top Sail Sheets - The topsail sheets were

rigged with .008 tan rigging line. A double knot

was formed on the end of the line and drop of

super glue was added. The sheet was passed

through the single block on each end the yard.

See figure 32 of the kit-supplied instructions.

Then it was run through the single blocks we

placed inboard on the yard and taken down to

the deck. Their loose ends were also belayed to

the mast cleats and finished off with some rope

coils. The top sail sheets were rigged identically

for the lower yards of the main and fore masts.

(.008) tackle

2.5 mm (S)

block hooked

into an eye

bolt on deck

belay to cleat

Running

Back Stay

VANGS

Running

Back Stay

using .018 black rigging. A 2.5mm single block

was seized to one end of that line. The block is

used for a tackle. The other end of the tackle

also uses a single block of the same size. It is

fitted with a hook and made from 28 gauge black

wire. It was hooked into an eye bolt on deck as

shown in the photo on the previous page. Check

the belaying plan for the exact locations on deck.

There are two vangs, one on each side of the

gaff (port and starboard). They are seized to the

tip of the gaff and brought down so the single

block is about 2” off the deck. I was very careful

to make certain the blocks for both vangs were

lined up across from one another. The tackles

were set up (.008 tan rigging) and belayed to a

cleat as shown in that same photo. They were

finished off with a rope coil.

The back stays were handled the same way as

the vangs. They were set up with a tackle

hooked to an eye bolt on deck. The running

ends of these tackles are also belayed to cleats

located on deck. The same sized rigging lines

were used. Check the belaying plan for the loca-

tions of the cleats and eye bolts. The only differ-

ence here is that each backstay (port and star-

board) was seized to the topmast. See the photo

provided showing the running back stays for the

main and fore masts. I must note that according

to the plans the back stays for the main mast

were belayed to the quarter deck railing. I am

not convinced that this was the method used to

secure them. I decided to add some cleats on

deck like the other stays instead.

2.5mm single

blocks

2.5mm

single blocks

Outer Jib

Halliard

Inner Jib

Halliard

Outer Jib

Downhaul

2.5mm single

blocks

Inner Jib

Downhaul

Jib Stay

Inhaul

Jib Rigging…

I rigged the downhauls first. Another single block

was seized to the end of some (.008) tan rigging

line. The lines were run through the lower single

blocks and belayed to the cleats on the rail

(Either side of the bowsprit). These were fin-

ished off with some rope coils. I spaced the block

for the downhaul about ¼” above the single

blocks lashed to the stay and traveler. I placed a

drop of super glue in each sheave to establish

this position before belaying the end of the line to

the cleats.

We are in the home stretch here folks. Only a

few more details remain and the model will be

finished. The rigging plan in the kit clearly

shows the placement for all of the single blocks

for the jib rigging. These blocks are all 2.5 mm. I

secured them as noted on the plans. Two blocks

were positioned high up on the inner and outer

jibstays. You can see in the photo above that

they are lashed around the seizing of the stays

near the trestle tree. Another single block was

positioned just above the heart on the inner jib-

stay. The remaining single block was tied to the

traveler on the starboard side.

The jib halliards were done next. The halliards

were stropped to the single blocks secured high

on the stays. From here they were reeved

through the blocks on the end of each down-

haul and taken back up to their originating

blocks. Each halliard was run through these

blocks and brought down to the deck where I

belayed them to a mast cleat. You could take

them down to the bits and belay them there

as well.

probably have as well. To remedy this I

take the flags and wrap them around a

wooden dowel. I continue to work the flag

every which way imaginable. The folds

should run diagonally and not vertically. The

folds should radiate from the top corner

where the flag hangs. The worse thing that

could happen is I ruin the flag. Then all I

have to do is print out another one. Try to

avoid repetitious folds. The flags should

never be bent or creased. The moment that

happens, throw it away and start over.

Lastly, I rigged the jib stay inhaul. A length

of (.008) tan rigging line was seized to the

traveler on the port side. There is a nice

detailed drawing of this on the rigging plan.

From here it was brought to the only remain-

ing cleat on the rail (starboard side of the

bowsprit). Check the belaying arrangement

on the rigging plan. Finish it off with a rope

coil. All of the rigging is now completed. The

only task remaining is to raise the flags.

I decided to hang the large flag from the

gaff halliard instead of from an ensign staff.

Either way is acceptable. I have seen the

staff attached to the stern in various ways

and haven’t liked any of the interpretations.

The kit shows the tapered dowel drilled into

the top rail of the transom. What ever

method you choose this one should definite-

ly be avoided.

The Flags…

The flags are secured to their halliards by

drilling tiny holes in the corners of them.

The flags are then lashed to the halliard or

staff with some sewing thread after running

it through these holes. I created a pennant

for the model in addition to the smaller flag

flown on the jack staff. I decided not to use

the pennant after all but will provide it any-

way in case you disagree. After I rigged

the pennant I thought the flags overpowered

the model so I removed it. Some folks

might think the Royal Navy ensign flown on

the stern is too large. I personally like a

large flag there. It is reminiscent of those

early oil paintings showing huge flags

waving in the wind during battle.

Anyway , THE MODEL IS NOW FINISHED.

Flags are provided with the kit but they are

from the wrong country. The kit came sup-

plied with several American flags from the

18th and 19th centuries. The Sultana was

never sailed under American control (unless

you are referring to the modern replica). I

have created several flags appropriately used

by the Royal Navy at this time. Simply print

out this page and cut the flags out using a

sharp hobby knife. Fold them down the cen-

ter line and glue them together using an

Elmer’s glue stick or similar product. There is

nothing worse than a stiff flag rigged on a

ship model as if it was actually left on the

moon. I have seen this many times and you

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