Sultanasection4.pdf

each seam around the diameter of the log with a

#11 blade. This will make the eight sides more

defined after they are stained. Some black auto-

motive pinstripe tape was wrapped around each

pump. It will simulate the iron bands. The tape

was cut 1/32” wide. This iron band was placed

about 1/32” below the top of the pump.

A hole was drilled into the top of each pump. It

was large enough that the pump walls looked the

correct thickness. The hole was only drilled to a

depth of 1/32”. I used a pencil to darken the

inside of the hole. These pumps were sometimes

lined with lead so I used a pencil to simulate that

finish.

The brackets that hold the handles were made

next. You can see how they were shaped in the

photo. This shape was traced onto a strip of

basswood 1/8” wide and 1/16” thick. They were

shaped with some files and sandpaper. The

outside edges were rounded. A slot was made

on the top of each bracket to accept the pump

handle. I used my Xacto saw blade with fine

teeth to carefully score the slot. The slots were

made wider by running some sandpaper through

the each of them. The handles will be less than

1/32” thick so the slots need to be wide enough

to accommodate them. Two small dots were

drawn onto the outside of these slots to simulate

an iron pin. This pin would have allowed the

pump handle to pivot up and down. Glue the

brackets onto the pump when you are finished.

The Windlass…

The windlass was also supplied as a cast metal

fitting. It’s not horrible but I decided to build one

from scratch anyway. A windlass made out of

wood will have a much better finish. I

approached building the windlass the same way I

do with all of my fittings. I break it down into

smaller components that will be easier to build.

The photo above shows all of the windlass com-

ponents before I assembled them. The first

pieces I built were for the windlass drum. This

was broken up into five segments.

The center sprocket was made first. I chose a

wooden dowel that was the proper diameter. The

measurements were taken directly from the plans.

I cut a small piece of the dowel to length and filed

the teeth into it. A small needle file was used.

When it finished I painted it black and set it aside.

The handles were made the same way. Trace

the shape onto a basswood strip that is 1/32”

thick and 1/8” wide. Shape them with some files

and drill a small hole into the end of each handle.

Some 28 gauge wire was shaped like an eye bolt

and inserted into this hole. See the photo on the

previous page for details.

The two center portions of the drum were cut to

length. They will ultimately be glued onto both

sides of the black sprocket. Both were shaped

with some sandpaper. The windless drum should

be sanded into a hexagonal (six sided) shape.

They are also tapered to a smaller diameter on

each end. It takes a little practice to keep the

edges consistent and even. When they were fin-

ished I drilled the small holes into it as they were

shown on the plans. You will notice that the

The spout for each pump was made from a 2mm

x 2mm strip of basswood. A tiny hole was drilled

into the end of each spout. They were glued

onto each pump at a right angles to the handle.

They will be glued onto opposite sides of each

pump so they will face outboard after glued into

position.

holes are square and not round. The holes are

very small and can’t be easily shaped with a # 11

blade or files. So I took a nail and filed the tip

square. I pushed it into each hole and applied

some pressure. The wood was so soft that the

holes conformed to the square shape desired.

This is a very effective way to create holes of any

shape. The basswood I am using is extremely

soft.

The two outside sections of the drum were pre-

pared exactly the same way. All four sections

were stained. Then I used some pinstripe tape to

simulate the iron bands wrapped around them.

They were cut into very thin strips like I have

described for other tasks earlier.

to the edge plank on deck. I wasn’t satisfied with

this approach. Normally the pawl was inserted

into a post positioned in front of the drum’s

sprocket gear. This was how I decide to model

that feature. You can see the post painted red in

photos below. A small strip of brass was inserted

into a slit on the post.

Finally, the two supports for the windlass drum

were traced from the plans. Some basswood

strips were chosen that were the correct thick-

ness (1/16”). I sanded them to shape being very

careful to create a matching pair. Both supports

were painted red. The entire windlass was

assembled afterwards and glued onto the model.

I was very pleased with the results considering

how easy it was to build. It was well worth

discarding the windlass supplied with the kit.

The galley stack could have been built from

scratch. But after looking at the one supplied

with the kit I decided to use it. The casting need-

ed to be cleaned up with some sandpaper but

overall it was acceptable. As I mentioned previ-

ously, sometimes the time saved is more valu-

able than creating something from scratch. In

this case, a scratch built stack would not have

turned out significantly different from the one kit-

supplied. I painted it black and glued it into

position.

Finishing Up the Deck Fittings…

There are only a few more fittings to complete.

To start, the pawl for the windlass drum was

installed. The plans show the pawl simply bolted

The tiller was finally made and glued to the

rudder head. See the photo above for details.

I wanted to hold off on adding this as long as

possible. It is vulnerable to breakage and has a

tendency to be pulled free after getting acciden-

tally hooked on other items. It was simple to

make. I used a 2mm x 2mm strip of basswood.

It should retain a square shape for the end that

connects to the rudder. The other side was

rounded starting at about the center of its length.

The tiller tapers to a very slender point. I placed a

small black bead on the tip of the tiller. These

beads are very inexpensive and can be bought at

any arts and crafts store. They are normally used

to make necklaces and jewelry. I keep an ample

supply available in different sizes and colors.

When I glued the tiller onto the rudder I wanted to

strengthen the joint. A small piece of 28 gauge

wire was used. It was inserted into a hole that

was drilled into the square end of the tiller.

Another hole was drilled into the rudder and the

tiller was glued into position.

drawings and cut a basswood strip to length.

Two catheads are needed so try and keep them

as a matching pair. They can be shaped as

shown in the photo below. Make note of the

cutout on the bottom of the cathead. The cutout

is shown with red lines in the photo. It will help

correctly seat the cathead in position on the bul-

warks.

The bitts are all that remain to be built (the rail

just in front of the fore mast). This is a very

straight forward procedure. Take some strip

wood that is the correct dimensions and cut the

posts to length. Carve some notches that will

accept the rail. I also sanded a chamfered edge

around the top of each post to ad some detail.

Glue the assembly together and install it on deck.

I decided not to paint the bitts red and stained

them instead. See the photos on the previous

page.

The cap rail was notched as shown in the same

photo. The catheads were glued into these

notches. The position for each cathead was

carefully measured and marked along the cap

rail before I cut the notches. I recommend taking

measurements from more than one reference

point on the model. The placement for each

cathead is crucial to the building of the head rails

so take your time.

Notch in

cap rail

The Catheads…

The plans have several detailed drawings of the

catheads. They are shown from many different

angles. Take the measurements from these

Cutout

Modified

cleats

Kit

supplied

Carved

cleat

After I created the basic shape for the catheads

the small details were added to them. Two

sheaves were simulated on the end of each cat-

head. I drilled the four holes for both sheaves.

Then I took a pin vice and scored the space

between each pair of holes. This created the

groove that simulated each sheave. You should

do this on the top and bottom of each cathead.

bowsprit will extend above the cap rail after it is

installed. I used a dowel that was the same

diameter as the bowsprit to establish the correct

placement and angle. The notch was cut to the

correct depth with a hobby saw and then rounded

with some needle files. The inboard end of the

bowsprit will be eight-sided. The shape of the

notch will be modified when it is time to install it.

A small eye bolt was made from 28 gauge black

wire and added to each cathead. You can see

them in the photo on the previous page. A cleat

was also glued to the top of each cathead

inboard. You will have to decide if the cleats

supplied with the kit are acceptable to you. Just

like the blocks, the cleats should be modified or

carved from scratch out of wood. They need to

be slimmed down in appearance. I provided a

photo on the previous page. It shows two cleats

that were filed to an acceptable size and shape

as compared to a pair that was not. The cleats

on the Sultana were probably made of wood.

You could also create them from scratch where a

natural finish is more desirable. The cleats on

the catheads will be painted black so I used the

modified metal cleats. The same photo also

shows a cleat that I carved from basswood.

The catheads were painted black and glued into

position. The photo above shows the catheads

completed and glued into position.

I noticed that the stem was to short after I test fit

the dowel (bowsprit) in position. I added a small

piece of wood to lengthen it. This “patch” is hard-

ly noticeable and after the head rails are created

will be almost invisible. I recognized my error

some time ago and could have fixed it so no one

would have noticed. I made a conscious decision

to leave it as is so I could mention how everyone

makes mistakes. It happens to the best of us

and the remedies for these errors are usually

easy to make. Try not to get discouraged when

Hawse Holes and Bow Details…

Since most of the deck structures are now

completed, I will start to add the details along the

cap rail. The first thing I addressed was the

notch for the bowsprit. You will notice that the

Timberheads

being shaped

on a stick

and then cut

free.

something similar happens to you. Once the

model is finished, no one will ever see the error

as long as you correct it with skillful craftsman-

ship and care.

The knightheads won’t be placed onto the model

until after the bowsprit is in position. I added 4

modified cleats as shown to the top of the cap

rail. They were painted black. Measure carefully

before you glue them into place. Make sure you

leave enough room for each knighthead on both

sides of the bowsprit.

I examined the plans for the positions of the

hawse holes and gun stocks. I placed reference

marks on the model for them. The hawse holes

were drilled and cleaned up with a needle file. It

is interesting to note that the hawse holes are

not shown on the original draft. There seems to

be a difference of opinion whether the Sultana

actually had hawse holes. Of the three plans I

am using, Portia Takakjian doesn’t show them

on her plans. Howard Chapelle has them locat-

ed on the outside of the gun stocks. The replica

in Maryland has them where they are located on

the kit-supplied plans. I decided to stick with the

kit-supplied plans and placed them where they

are shown in the photo.

Timberheads…

I will continue working along the cap rail at the

bow. Seven timberheads will be positioned atop

the cap rail aft of each cathead. They were

made using a strip of 1/16” thick basswood. It

was the same material that was used to plank

the decks. Each timberhead measures 4mm

high and 2.5mm wide. I transferred the general

shape for each timberhead to the strip and

shaped it with a #11 blade and sandpaper. See

the photo above which shows a timberhead that I

created. They are cut from the strip after they

are finished because the strip makes it easier to

hold as I am shaping them. The tops of each

timberhead were beveled to add some interest.

They were also tapered to 2mm at their bases. I

used the plans to find the exact locations for the

timberheads and glued them onto the model.

Afterwards, I painted them black.

The gunstocks were easy to make. I made two

of them as shown in the same photo. An iron

band was simulated with a thin strip of black

pinstripe tape. I also drilled a small hole on the

top of each gun stock for the swivel guns. It is

easier to drill them before you glue them onto

the model. They were glued into position after I

notched the cap rail to accept them. Afterwards,

I drilled two holes on the outside of each stock

and filled them to replicate trunnels. I may paint

the gun stocks black but will leave them natural

for the time being. I will make that decision

before I start rigging the model.

One gun stock should be made for each side of

the hull as well. They were made the same way

I made the others earlier. You can see where I

glued them onto the hull in the same photo.

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