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POZNAŃ

November 2010 - February 2011

EURO 2012

stadium

Lech’s new home

Smoking

The new law

N°27 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)

poznan.inyourpocket.com

ISSN 1642-2902

CONTENTS

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Contents

Arrival & Transport

The Basics

Surviving Poz

Culture & Events

This seasons highlights

Where to stay

Accommodation for all pockets

Restaurants

The highs and lows

Cafés

Poznan is the first to finish its new stadium ahead of the

EURO2012 finals. But it is also Polish Champions Lech

Poznan’s home stadium and they have a number of great

fixtures in the coming months. We tell you about the club

and how to watch the games on page 6

Nightlife

Hedonists handbook

History

Sightseeing

Essential Poznań

What to see

Out of Town

Gniezno

Kórnik

Łódź

Leisure

Shopping

Directory

Maps & Index

City centre map

The Irish have done it. The British have done it. Hell even

the French managed it. But now the real test. Poland. New

smoking legislation comes into force on Monday 15th of

November. We explain the new laws, the exceptions and

wonder if European smoking legislation is about to meet

its match.

City map

Country map

Street index

Listings index

Features index

poznan.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - February 2011

FOREWORD

The likelihood is that you find yourself in Poznan

at this time of year because of business. Well

drop your boss a mail to thank him or her. They

have done you a favour by putting you into one of

Poland’s most thriving and under-rated cities. Each

time we publish a new guide, brand new ventures

seem to be springing up all over the place reflecting

the positive attitude that seems to be engulfing the

city at the moment. And while you probably won’t

have heard too much about Poznan in the travel

pages we bet you’ll be quietly impressed with the

old town particularly in the wintery evenings when

the mists hang in the backstreets and the roofs of

the old buildings are coated in snow.

And nowhere is the positive future reflected better

at present than in the city’s football club and

stadium. Lech Poznan are Poland’s champions and

during the shelf-life of this tome, the ‘Railwaymen’

as they are known will be facing Juventus and the

big-money boys of Manchester City in their new

40,000-seater stadium. With the Euro2012 finals

to be played here, the city’s traditionally strong

football support has a lot to look forward to. We tell

you how to buy tickets and where to watch.

And this issue also sees a landmark moment in

Poland. November 15th is the date when new

anti-smoking legislation comes into effect and as

we went to press there was a lot of confusion on

both the side of smokers and the side of law-

enforcement as to what this meant. We have tried

to decipher the law and its myriad of exceptions on

page 17. We fancy that there is going to be carnage

as the law comes into place but if they can make

anti-smoking legislation stick here, it can stick

anywhere.

As always we welcome all comments about the

guide to editor_poland@inyourpocket.com and we

invite you to go online where you can post your own

comments about the places that we cover.

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Editor Craig Turp

Research Manager Anna Hojan

Researchers Katarzyna Burzynska,

Events Klaudia Mampe, Łukasz Jankowski,

Vaughan Elliott

Design Tomáš Haman

Photography www.flickr.com,

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Sales & Circulation

Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676

Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane

Sales Manager: Anna Szumniak

668 876 351

Warszawa/Łódź

Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643

Wrocław/Poznań

Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 606 749 642

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Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 58 555 98 18

Maps

Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM

ul. Wenecja 26/5, 31-117 Kraków

tel./fax 12 421 24 48

agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl

Poznań In Your Pocket

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FOOTBALL AND POZNAN STADIUM

Poland is a country with a rich football heritage, fanatical

supporters and a major European tournament to look forward

to hosting. However there are major problems with corrup-

tion, incompetent administration of the game and a pretty

seri ous h ooli ga n is su e. S o wh il e watc h i n g a ga m e h ere is n ot

discouraged, be warned that you may be surprised at the

high level of trouble and the appallingly low level of football.

Lech Poznań

Lech Poznań ul. Bułgarska

5/7 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61

886 30 00, www.lechpoznan.

pl. Tickets for Polish Ekstraklasa

games can be purchased either

from the ticket office at the

ground (situated under stand

#4) or from licensed vendors in

Poznan. While stand #2 is where

you will find the official singing

section with the club’s hardcore

support and the bottom right of

stand #4 for guest supporters, foreign visitors are

recommended to take up seats in either stand #3 or

the main stand #1.

Poland as a national side has finished 3rd in 2 World Cups and

the older fans among you will remember the likes of Grzegorz

Lato (Golden Boot winner at the West German World Cup of

1974), Kazimierz Deyna and Zbigniew Boniek (one half of the

great Juventus midfield pairing with Michel Platini). Poles are

big fans of the game but the current state of the game in this

country is depressing. The national side has been in turmoil

since before Leo Beenhakker, the experienced Dutch trainer

who had managed to get Poland to their first ever Euro Champs

in 2008, was fired live on the pitch after Poland went out of

World Cup qualifying in Slovenia. A series of defeats, poor

performances and lack of new talent have Poles thankful that

they qualify for Euro 2012 by way of being hosts but fearful

that this will result in a series of high profile thrashings at the

hands of some of the continent’s bigger sides.

The stadium is located to the west of the city and can be

reached by tram 13 from the centre. A taxi alternatively

will cost you 20-30zl.

Although the winter break arrives during the lifetime

of this guide, there are some big games to look

forward to in both the Ekstraklasa and the Europa

League:

At club level things are even worse if that is possible. With the

national side typically recruiting from the limited number of players

plying their trade in foreign leagues, Polish clubs are even worse

o f f. Th ei r stan di n g i n E u rop ea n c omp eti ti on is a dis gra c e wi th th ei r

last representatives in the group stage of the Champions League

being Widzew Lodz in 1996. The 2010/2011 season saw all bar

one Polish entry in Europe out by the end of August to the might

of clubs such as Austria Vienna, Aris Salonika and Qarabag of

4th November Manchester City (19:00)

10th November Polonia Warszawa (18:45)

13th November Lechia Gdańsk (18:15)

20th November Polonia Bytom (17:00)

1st December Juventus (21:05)

4th December Widzew Łódź

Q Prices for Stands I and III are set at 65zł and 55zl

respectively with discounts for students under 26 and

the over 65s. Europa League games are priced mark-

edly higher with tickets for Stand I priced at 170zł and

Stand III at 130zł. Tickets can be purchased from the

Ticket Office situated at the stadium under Stand IV

(Open 10:00-18:00 and later on match days) or from the

TIFOSI Shop (ul. Piekary 10, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00,

Sat 10:00-14:00. You should bring ID with you when

purchasing tickets.

Poznań City Stadium

Maciej Opala, Lech Poznan

Azerbaijan. In summary the league is poor, corruption has been

rife (currently over 70 people have been arrested included club

officials and refs) and attendances are low.

Poznan City Stadium (Stadion Miejski w

Poznaniu) ul. Bułgarska 5/7 (Grunwald), tel. (+48)

61 886 30 00, www.lechpoznan.pl. The Poznan city

stadium is the first western style stadium to be com-

pleted in Poland. With EURO2012 seeing 4 Polish cities

hosting games (the others being Warsaw, Wroclaw and

Gdansk) Poznan saw a redevelopment of its existing

stadium rather than a completely new stadium being built

as in the other cases. The stadium, which is owned by

the city rather than the club, was originally built in 1980

following twelve years of construction. Redevelopment

saw capa ci t y raise d from 27,000 to 4 3,09 0, at a n i nvest-

ment of €160 million and the stadium, if not the pitch,

is now up to a top standard. Featuring covered seating

throughout as well as the service points you would expect

at a modern sports stadium, Poznan is one of a series

of new stadiums being constructed around the country.

The hope is that the investment going into the game will

encourage greater attendances, generate more revenue

to improve the quality of the players and to reduce the

amount of trouble at games.

Having said all that, you are probably in the best place in

the country to watch football. Because believe it or not

Lech Poznan, rather than Wisla Krakow or Legia Warsaw,

are Poland’s best supported team. A rich football heritage,

enthusiastic and vocal support and of course a modern,

suppor ter fri en dl y stadiu m, m ean th at this is on e o f th e b est

places in the country to watch Polish football.

One thing to be aware of in Polish football is the peculiar alle-

giances that exist between supporters of different teams and

more importantly the animosity amongst others. When two

‘friends’ are playing each other expect a cheery atmosphere,

bbq and beer being provided by the hosts and the distinct lack

of uniformed police and security. If however enemies are playing

each other, expect baton wielding, armoured police and scenes

from Braveheart. Complete lunacy. For the record Lech Poznan

are good friends with Arka Gdynia and Cracovia while ‘enemies’

would be Slask Wroclaw, Wisla Krakow and Lechia Gdansk. To

read more about Lech Poznan see our box on page 82.

Poznań In Your Pocket

poznan.inyourpocket.com

TRADE FAIRS

Most foreign visitors to Central Europe are unfamilar with

Pozna ń. H owever, th ose th at d o b usi n es s i n th is par t o f th e worl d

know the city well. If you’re here on business you are probably

already aware that Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital. This

title is justified as the Poznań fair grounds are Poland’s largest,

hosting the biggest and best fairs in Poland each year.

Trade fair schedule

November 08-10 SAKRALIA - church equipment and

liturgical objects

November 12-14 Kamień-Stone: Stone Industry Fair

November 12-14 Boat Show: Fair of Sailing and Water

Sports

November 16-19 Investfield: Property and Investment

Exhibition

November 23-26 Trade Fair for Municipalities, Cities

and Region

November 23-26 International Trade Fair for Environ-

mental Protection

November 23-26 Kom te c h ni ka: I n ternati onal Fai r Tra d e

of Municipal Technologies

November 26-27 Optical Fair OPTICS

December 03-05 Art & Craft Festival

December 10-12 CAVALIADA: Expo, Sport, Show

January 11-14 CBS: Sports Facilities, Amenity Areas,

Wellness & Spa

January 11-14 Budma: International Construction Fair

January 11-14 WINDOOR-TECH: Fair of Machines

and Components for Window, Door, Gate and Facade

Production

January 28-30 Pigeon Olympics: Trade Fair of Pigeon

and Accessories

February 10-13 FARMA: International Fair of Animal

Breeding

February 15-18 MEBLE: Furniture Fair

February 25-27 GARDENIA: Garden Fair

Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back as

far as 1254 when King Przemysław I granted special

privileges to traders. Over the following centuries Poznań

developed this trading tradition to the point where, in

1917, local merchants decided to develop a specialised

fai r i nsti tu ti on. Th is i d ea rea c h e d frui ti on on M ay 28, 1921,

when the first Poznań fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s

fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political

and economic changes that periodically moved through

Poland and Europe.

After Poland re-emerged on the map of Europe in 1918 with

the advent of the second Polish Republic, the Poznań fair was

instrumental in helping to re-integrate economic activities. It

contributed to the task of creating a new Polish market and

in demonstrating to the outside world Poland’s readiness

for economic and commercial cooperation. It also helped

with the complex task of unifying the three areas of Poland

separated during the partitions and in which different fiscal,

monetary and legal systems operated.

In 1928, the city of Poznań and the Poznań International

Fair held the Universal National Exhibition, which showed

the world the achievements of the first decade of the new

Polish state. Over 4.5 million people visited the fair, including

delegations from many foreign countries. The Poznań

International Fair was one of the few fairs that managed

to survive the great economic crisis of 1929-1932 and by

the outbreak of WWII it was considered one of Europe’s

leading fairs.

However, the war had a catastrophic effect on the

International Fair complex. The Germans used the buildings

for storage and to manufacture airplane parts. On Easter

Sunday 1943, a day when no Poles were at the Fair, the

British Royal Air Force bombed pavilions 5 and 8 as Stanisław

Laskowski, the Fair’s president, looked on. Pavilion 5 was

rebuilt in the 1970s with funds from the British Department

of Trade and Industry.

In 1946 rebuilding started on the same land and the first

post-war fair was held under the title Fashion and Home

(Odzież i dom). The Poznań International Fair started anew

in 1947 but was once again forced to close - this time, in the

years 1951-54, because of the atmosphere created by the

Cold War. It was only in 1955, with the multi-product Poznań

International Fair exhibit, that the Fair started cooperating

with foreign countries again.

Trade fairs

Poznań International Fair (Międzynarodowe

Targi Poznańskie) E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48)

61 869 20 00, fax (+48) 61 869 29 99, info@mtp.pl,

www.mtp.pl.

World Trade Center Poznań E-3, ul. Bukowska

12, tel. (+48) 61 866 10 50, wtc-poznan@wtc-

poznan.com.pl, www.wtc-poznan.com.pl. The WTC

fosters world trade and promotes international business

relationships. WTC runs a visitor information desk during

every fair, where foreigners can get free fair passes and

information on the relevant industrial sector in English,

Russian and German. It also has a business centre and

a bar. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.

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