Kłajpeda.pdf

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

KlaIpEda

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks .”

The New York Times

June 2011 - May 2012

Including

NIda & palaNGa

Inside

A fully updated, impartial

scrutiny of the best things

Klaipėda has to offer visitors

for the next 12 months

Outside

Two indispensable guides to

the quirky coastal resorts of

Nida and Palanga

N°19 - 6Lt

www.inyourpocket.com

9 7 7 1 8 2 2 1 7 9 0 1 4

Contents

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents

Arriving in Klaipėda

By bus, train, plane etc.

Basics

A little background information

History

Events that helped shape the region

Culture & Events

Just the ticket for the next 12 months

Where to stay

Beds and tents for all tastes and budgets

Dining & Nightlife

Restaurants

Of the two most popular seaside resorts in Lithuania, Nida

is by far the most sedate, picturesque and expensive. Quite

like nowhere else in the country, the entire Lithuanian part of

the Curonian Spit on which Nida is located retains a distinct

Germanness in both its appearance and its outlook. Read

all about it on p.28.

Food for peasants and princes

Nightlife 19

Drinking, dancing and a little bit of nakedness

Sightseeing

What to see

Museums, monuments and the rest

Nida

Lithuania’s southern Riviera

Palanga

A little Baltic slap and tickle

Getting around

When legs just aren’t enough

Mail & Phones

Keeping in touch

Shopping

Until you’re dropping

Directory

Everything else you need to know

Maps

Street register

City centre map

If your idea of a holiday by the sea involves candyfloss,

miniskirts and drinking and dancing all night, then get thee to

Palanga. Lithuania’s unofficial summer capital offers a cheap

and cheerful experience for the masses like no other. The

fun starts on p.32.

City map

Index

Country map

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2011 - May 2012

4 Foreword

arriving in klaipeDa

In the early hours of January 28, 1945 the last

remaining German soldiers fled Memel after a

bloodthirsty three-month siege that left the city in ruins

and its civilian population famously reduced to a mere

handful. Within two years Memel was rechristened

Klaipėda and, as the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist

Republic’s largest port, embarked on yet another

chapter in its long and complicated history. Part of

an independent Lithuania for two decades, modern-

day Klaipėda is an eccentric cocktail mixed from its

miscellaneous past personalities. By no stretch of

the imagination an international tourist hotspot, its

fascination lies primarily in the echoes of its history,

a fact impossible to argue with during the summer

when the city’s hotels fill to bursting with German

tourists whose ancestors once lived here. Boasting

enough decent restaurants, bars, clubs and sights to

keep visitors busy for a few days at least, Klaipėda

sits between the Lithuanian two coastal resorts of

Nida and Palanga, both of them extraordinary in their

own ways and each included within the pages of

this indispensible little guidebook. Almost as old as

the Lithuanian Constitution itself, Klaipėda In Your

Pocket provides an indispensable peep through the

cultural curtains of life along the three most important

destinations in the west of Lithuania. Klaipėda In Your

Pocket welcomes comments, suggestions, custard

pies and knives in the back as always. Email us at

klaipeda@inyourpocket.com or join the conversation

at klaipeda.inyourpocket.com.

Europe In Your Pocket

With an airport just up the road, a ferry and cruise liner

port in the city centre, bus connections, a train station and

an internationally recognised cycle route running through

it, if you’re having trouble arriving in Klaipėda you may

like to have somebody feel your pulse and possibly call a

priest.

25 minutes. All buses terminate at the last stop on Taikos

before Old Town. Taxis are usually waiting around outside.

A journey to Old Town costs anything from 35-60Lt.

International Ferry Terminal B-8, Perkėlos 10, tel.

(+370) 46 39 50 51, www.dfdsseaways.lt. The Interna-

tional Ferry Terminal is situated about 18km south of the city

centre. Small and easy to use, don’t expect too much in the

way of services. Bus Nº1a leaves from the stop immediately

south of the Old Market on Taikos. A ticket from the driver,

which must be validated in the appropriate machine, currently

costs 2.40Lt, and the journey takes about 25 minutes. De-

pending on which company you use, a taxi from Old Town will

cost anything from 35-60Lt.

Northern

Ireland

Estonia

Latvia

Russia

Lithuania

By bus

Long-distance buses arrive in Klaipėda from Kaliningrad,

Riga and most major Lithuanian towns and cities. The

newish bus station, if not exactly cutting edge, is at least

an improvement on the concrete monstrosity that once

stood in its place. The combined ticket hall and waiting

room also features toilets (1Lt) and a couple of machines

selling drinks and snacks. A left luggage office ( bagažinė )

for travellers who only plan on spending the day in town

can be found at the front of the building which also

contains a decent IKI supermarket, a handful of small

shops and a café selling good value buffet food ready in

an instant. ATMs can be found outside. Getting to town

Taxis can be found lurking around the station perimeter. A

ride to Old Town should cost around 10Lt from an honest

driver, possibly even less. Buses to the city centre leave

from outside the front of the building. For more information

on which number buses to take, see Arriving by train. The

bus station is a good 20-minute walk from Old Town.

Bus Station O-2, Butkų Juzės 9, tel. (+370) 46 41 15

47. Q Ticket office open 03:30 - 19:30. J

Belarus

Netherlands

Poland

Germany

Ukraine

Czech

Republic

By plane

Klaipėda is served by Palanga Airport, which is about

25km north of the city on the main A13 (E272) highway.

At different times of the year the airport handles flights

to and from Copenhagen, Moscow, Oslo and Riga. Small

even by Lithuanian standards, the airport is easy to use.

A currency exchange office takes care of changing money

although there’s little else to be found inside. Getting

to town Buses for Klaipėda leave from the small stand

outside the main entrance, and all of them go via Palanga.

The journey time is about 50 minutes. Tickets cost 8Lt

and can be bought from the driver. The bus terminates at

the main bus station. See Arriving by bus for more informa-

tion. Taxis are usually parked outside the terminal building

whenever flights arrive. The journey to Klaipėda costs

anything from 100Lt upwards.

Palanga Airport Liepojos 1, tel. (+370) 46 05 20 20,

ops@palanga-airport.lt, www.palanga-airport.lt.

By train

A handful of trains arrive in Klaipėda each day from

Šiauliai, Šilutė and Vilnius. Facilities at the train station

include toilets outside near the platforms, large luggage

lockers (4Lt/day), a drinks machine and not a lot else.

Getting to town Taxis can be found outside the front of

the station. A ride to Old Town should cost around 10Lt

from an honest driver. Minibus Nº8 leaves from a small

stand just to the right of the exit and goes south through

the city centre. Pay the driver 2.50Lt and shout when you

want him to stop. The larger city bus Nº8 leaves from the

bus stop to the right of the minibus stop and follows the

same route. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.40Lt. Both

buses go through Old Town during the week and around it

on Saturdays and Sundays. The train station is a good 20

minutes away on foot from Old Town.

Train Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) O-1, Priestočio

1, tel. (+370) 46 31 36 77. Catching a train in Klaipėda

is about as interesting as watching grass grow. Once you’ve

bought your ticket all that’s left to do is to sit and wait. The

ticket office on the far left accepts credit cards, which is about

as sophisticated as the train station gets. Ignore the drinks

machine and visit the shop next door or one of the two bars

underneath it, of which the one on the left (Senoji Stotis) also

doubles as the city’s Weapons Museum. Q Ticket office open

06:10 - 19:00. J

Austria

Switzerland

Slovenia

Romania

Croatia

Bosnia

Serbia

Bulgaria

Montenegro

Kosovo

FYR Macedonia

Albania

Greece

In Your Pocket has recently published brand

new guides in the Netherlands (Amsterdam

and Tilburg), Austria (Vienna), Croatia (Šibenik),

Switzerland (Zurich) and the quirky capital of Be-

larus , Minsk. This year will also see new Pockets

rolled out in Ukraine and Slovenia . Also keep

an eye out for a full print guide to Peja in Kosovo ,

published later in the summer.

We also continue to roll out iPhone apps and will

be launching even more guides as apps throu-

ghout this year. Keep up to date with all In Your

Pocket news, like In Your Pocket on Facebook

(facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on

Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can now

also follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.

com/inyourpocket).

By car

Klaipėda is at the end of the 311km highway from Vilnius

and is also connected to Riga via the A13 (E272) that hugs

the coast before crossing the border and becoming the

A11. A massive new intersection just east of the city is

currently under construction, which will eventually make

life easier for traffic. At the moment though, the mess of

unfinished flyovers and confusing road signs only make

matters worse. Brave souls wishing to take a vehicle into

the city should know in advance that Klaipėda’s a sprawl-

ing mass of bumpy roads possessing little in the way of

useful signposts. Don’t leave valuables unattended, and if

you can, use guarded parking whenever possible.

By ferry

Ferries arrive in Klaipėda from Kiel and Sassnitz in

Germany as well as Karlshamn in Sweden. Services at

the ferry terminal are few and far between. If you want

to change money, find a Medicinos Bankas kiosk (Open

08:00 - 19:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs) in the main terminal

building. Getting to town The International Ferry Terminal

is about 12km south of the city centre. Bus Nº1a leaves

from outside the main terminal building a few times a day.

Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.40Lt and validate it in the

appropriate machine. Journey time to the centre is about

Cover story

At just 17cm, Senamiesčio Peliukas (The

Little Mouse of Old Town) or Stebuklingasis

Peliukas (The Miraculous Little Mouse) is

the smallest monument in Klaipėda. The

work of Sergejus Plotnikovas and Svajūnas

Jurkus, the little fella was unveiled in De-

cember 2006 but was promptly stolen.

Like his predecessor, the replacement

mouse’s ears are for whispering dreams into (or you can rub

his tummy if you like), which supposedly come true. Find him

on the corner opposite Kurpiai (see p.19).

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Editorial

Editor Sco

Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė

Researcher Saulina Kochanskaitė

Cover Sergejus Plotnikovas and

Svajūnas Jurkus, “Stebuklingasis

peliukas”, 2006, LATGA-A, Vilnius 2011

Cover Photo Sco

Sales & Circulation

Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket

General Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė

Accounting UAB “PHREND”

Sales Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė

This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian

guides are available for sale from kiosks,

tourist information centres, the Vilnius

In Your Pocket office and other outlets

throughout Klaipėda and Lithuania as

well as online at www.inyourpocket.com.

Complimentary copies of Klaipėda In Your

Pocket are also available in many hotels.

Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP

1992-2012; some photos, LATGA-A;

No part of this publication may be

reproduced in any form, except brief

extracts for the purpose of review,

without written permission from the

publisher and copyright owner. The brand

name In Your Pocket is used under license

from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15,

Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Editor’s note

The editorial content of In Your Pocket

guides is independent from paid-for

advertising. Sponsored listings are

clearly marked as such. We welcome all

readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure

the accuracy of the information at the

time of going to press and assume no

responsibility for changes and errors.

Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket

Vokiečių 10-15

Vilnius, Lithuania

tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76

fax (+370) 5 212 29 82

klaipeda@inyourpocket.com

www.inyourpocket.com

ISSN 1822-1793

©UAB “VIYP”

Printed by UAB “Lietuvos ryto”

spaustuvė

Published once a year

Print run 31,000

Yacht Port

Serving up to 70 yachts and motor cruisers, Klaipėda’s

yacht port offers the opportunity to berth in Old Town.

Facilities include around the clock security, electricity,

fresh water, fuel, minor repairs and even internet access.

For more about using the facilities including information

on passport control and customs clearance, see the

port’s website at www.ports.lt.

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

Klaipėda In Your Pocket

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2011 - May 2012

6 Basics

Basics

Alcohol

Almost without exception Lithuanian beer ( alus ) is light,

crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and

you’re recommended to test a few before settling on a

regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the

delicious local treat Švyturys (see p.24 for information

about going on a tour of their factory when in town),

Utenos from Utena and Kalnapilis from Panevėžys.

Lithuanian beers are often stronger than their Western

counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words

(such as alus ) a challenge after couple of the most lethal.

In the city centre expect to pay somewhere in the region

of 6-12Lt for half a litre, and do try the beer in the city’s

microbreweries at Livonia (see p.22) and Memelis (see

p.22) if you can. Lithuanian vodka ( degtinė ) is cheap,

generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto at the

mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the more

interesting spirits are starka , a 15th-century, Polish-

Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified

with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit

firewater, samagonas , available through the right

connections. Take note that imported alcohol isn’t cheap.

Don’t go falling into the trap of thinking that because the

local stuff is giveaway everything else is too. Check prices

before a session to avoid embarrassment. For reasons

that mystify everyone except the knuckleheaded MPs

who supported it, a Lithuanian law prohibits the sale of

alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00.

Crime & Safety

Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place

inside the clandestine worlds of business and politics and

consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor.

Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as

having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing

purses and mobile phones. Don’t leave valuables in

unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances

of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution

never did anybody any harm, and you’re advised not to flaunt

your wallet in stupid places or announce to the entire world

your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back

streets. Walk tall, look like you know what you’re doing, and

you won’t be troubled.

Emergency numbers

Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112

Floors

The Lithuanians consider the floor at street level to be the

first floor, and so on.

Street smarts

Below is a list of Lithuanian street and place names. We

shorten some of these as is standard practice, using

just the main name. For example, Laisvės Alėja is simply

referred to as Laisvės.

Climate

Money & Costs

The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which

comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt

and 500Lt notes, 1, 2 and 5 litas coins and a number of

weightless and rather useless centai/centų coins. The

litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to €1.

Most places of any note in Klaipėda happily accept major

credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to any

foreigner with money in their account. If you’re planning a

trip to the countryside or any of the smaller destinations

included in this guide however, make sure you take plenty

of cash along to be on the safe side. Klaipėda, Nida and

Palanga are no longer the cheap destinations they used to

be, although they still offer value to most visitors from the

West. A good night out for two including a meal in a posh

restaurant followed by drinks in a bar and a club to finish

off won’t leave you with much change, if any change at all,

from €100. Most prices have rocketed of late, although

short-term accommodation is still extremely good value.

Once outside the main tourist destinations, prices drop

considerably, with rural holidays providing exceptionally

good value for money.

Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

Aikštė/Skveras Square

Alėja Alley

Gatvė Street

Kelias Road, way

Plentas ihy

Prospektas Avenue

Tiltas Bridge

-10

Service

Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed

in Lithuanian life can’t fail to notice just how extraordinarily

indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can

be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the

waitress in the expensive restaurant you’re dining in, don’t

be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye

contact, don’t be too surprised either to watch those eyes

roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples

of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of

mammoth proportions. If you’re sensitive to these things,

be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If there’s a culprit at

work then it’s surely management, from the mandarins who

oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners

who can’t be bothered to train their staff. Try not to take it

out on the staff.

-20

F M A M J J A

Customs

Those arriving from other EU countries have no import

restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to

make it known if they’re arriving with more than €10,000 in

cash. When arriving from non-EU countries you’re entitled to

bring in one litre of spirits or two litres of wine or beer plus 200

cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco. You can

bring 50g of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette. You can’t

bring plants, meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU

except under certain circumstances. You can’t arrive with live

birds. Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof

of vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish

tax free unless it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to

pay 10-20% duty. The antique shop listed on p.42 should be

able to advise on exactly what paperwork you need. For more

detailed information check www.cust.lt. For information on

animal related arrivals, take a look at www.vet.lt.

Disabled travellers

Whilst things have improved for the disabled over the past few

years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on anything

other than two well functioning legs. Even places that claim

to be wheelchair-friendly are often flanked by deep kerbs or

stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the major

cities you’ll be lucky to find any thought given to wheelchair

accessibility at all. The Society for the Physically Disabled of

Lithuania (Lietuvos Neįgaliųjų Draugija) has a website at www.

draugija.lt, which has been promising an English language

version for well over a year with none in sight.

Language

Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the

oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is

supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing

many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With

seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely

no similarity to anything you’ve ever heard before and

an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in

the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being

understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best

tough although there is the advantage when learning it

that it’s bound by rules that simply need to be learnt by

rote. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in

the country are now fairly English-friendly, plus Lithuania’s

rich cultural past has left an accumulation of polyglots

nationwide, with Russian spoken almost everywhere,

Polish in and around the capital and German up and

down the coast.

Smoking

If it’s Lithuanian and it’s got a lung that works then it probably

smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are

readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and

cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented.

Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania

are ridiculously cheap. Smoking is now banned in all

restaurants and bars in the country, and don’t even think

about lighting up on public transport.

Toilets

Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas ? (where’s the

toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use

their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small

charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-

tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty

of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone by that

refuses to go away even in many upmarket establishments

is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next to the toilet and

used for the collection of used paper.

Visas

Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the

Schengen zone. Visitors from EU countries as well as a list

of 30 or so additional countries don’t require a visa to stay

for up to 90 days within a six month period. Those additional

countries include Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand,

Singapore, South Korea and the United States. A visa issued

for any Schengen country is also valid in Lithuania. EU citizens

can live and work in Lithuania for as long as they like but must

get a resident permit. For more precise information, take a

look at www.urm.lt

Basic data

Population

Lithuania 3,244, 601 Klaipėda 177,81 2

Ethnic composition (Lithuania)

Lithuanians 84% Poles 6.1% Russians 4.9% Belaru-

sians 1.1% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 3.3%

Territory

65,303km 2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and

the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,

peppered with many lakes. North to south, the great-

est distance is 276km , east to west is 373km

Borders

Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km

Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km

Longest river

Nemunas 937km ( 475km in Lithuania)

Largest lake

Drūkščiai 4,479ha

Highest point

Aukštasis 293.8m

National holidays

Electricity

Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls

at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round

two-pin European variety. Travellers from non-socket-friendly

societies should bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re

almost impossible to find in Lithuania.

Lithuanians would celebrate the opening of an envelope.

Any excuse for a bit less work and a bit more cake will

be welcomed, including birthdays and Name Days. The

following are the official public holidays.

January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day

February 16 Independence Day

March 11 Restoration of Independence

April 8 (2012) Easter Sunday (Catholic)

April 9 (2012) Easter Monday (Catholic)

May 1 A day off for the workers!

June 24 Joninės, or Midsummer

July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas

August 15 Žolinė (Assumption)

November 1 All Saints’ Day

December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)

Blue Flag beaches

A total of three Baltic Sea beaches along the Lithuanian

coast currently have Blue Flag status, namely those at

Nida (see p.27), Juodkrantė (see p.28) and the section

of beach close to the Botanical Park (see p.38) in

Palanga.

Klaipėda In Your Pocket

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2011 - May 2012

M A M J J A

8 history

Culture & events

The ancestral home of the Curonians ( Kuršiai ) and other

proto-Lithuanian tribes including the long-extinct Nadruvians

and Skalvians, the area around Klaipėda has been inhabited

since at least the 7th century. Until 1923, the city was an

integral part of the region of East Prussia known as Lithuania

Minor (Lithuanian, Mažoji Lietuva. German, Kleinlitauen)

whose Lithuanian population, the Lietuvininkai , were

predominantly Protestant and distinct from their eastern

neighbours in many ways. Although Klaipėda was known

as Memel for most of its history, the word Klaipėda is used

below to mean both.

order to revitalise the city, the area is established as one of

the few Free Economic Zones within the country.

Concert halls

Klaipėda Concert Hall (Klaipėdos Koncertų Salė)

M-3, Šaulių 36, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 66, www.koncer-

tusale.lt. The best place in town for serious music concerts,

the innovative people who run this place also nurture young

musical talent, organise festivals and are also responsible for

the carillon at the top of the tower in the city’s main post office.

The large garden at the back has been turned into an outdoor

theatre for summer concerts of every persuasion. Q Box office

open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. J

Švyturys Arena I-8, Dubysos 10. Q Open from July 28.

Summer events

21st century

The Lithuanian litas is pegged to the euro in 2002 . In 2004

Lithuania joins Nato and the European Union. In 2007 Lithu-

ania becomes a member of the Schengen zone. In 2009

Klaipėda co-hosts the prestigious Tall Ships Race. The

country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in several

cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18 .

Musical August on the Seaside

July 27 - August 28, www.muzikinis-teatras.lt

Complete with a ridiculous title, the city’s 14th Inter-

national Festival of Opera and Symphonic Music looks

about as interesting as waiting for a bus. The schedule

remains incomplete at press time, so hopefully things

will improve.

Sea Festival

July 29 - 31, www.jurossvente.lt

The erroneously monikered Sea Festival does indeed

feature plenty of sea-based adventure but is much more

besides. Be enthralled, entertained and generally treated

to much cultural goodness in the form of concerts, exhi-

bitions, street festivals, people getting very drunk and

sailors of all types involved in a number of ceremonies.

The event promises somewhere in the region of half a

million visitors. Book a hotel before it’s too late.

Stalag Luft VI

13th century

1252 The Bishop of Kuršas (Courland) signs an agreement

with the Livonian Order. The Teutonic Knights build

Memelburg Castle at the mouth of the Danė. In 1254

Klaipėda is granted Lübeck law, establishing it as a sea

trading town on a par with other Hanseatic towns. The town

is repeatedly attacked by Lithuanian and German forces,

causing the Bishop to re-locate to Pilten (today’s Piltene in

Latvia) in 1298.

Cultural centres

Ethno-Cultural Centre (Etnokultūros Centras)

N-8/O-7, Daržų 10, tel. (+370) 46 41 01 08, www.et-

nocentras.lt. The spiritual home of the city’s many folk and

folklore societies. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. J

Simon Dach House (Simono Dacho Namai) L-5,

Jūros 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 14 81, www.simonodachona-

mai.tinkle.lt. This busy centre organises everything from

German language courses to the annual Day of German

Culture. They also have a good value guesthouse. Q Open

11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

In turns a German POW camp for Allied air crews and a

place of detention for prisoners of the Soviet regime,

the almost entirely forgotten site that was once Stalag

Luft VI, the northernmost POW camp in the Third Reich,

deserves both a visit and more recognition in general.

Covering three hectares of land just east of Šilutė in the

village of Macikai, Stalag Luft VI was opened in 1939

and at its peak housed over 1,000 servicemen from

countries including Belgium, Canada, Great Britain,

Poland and the United States. Abandoned as the Red

Army approached at the start of 1945, after the war

the camp became a Soviet prison camp where entire

families were kept in harsh conditions until soon after

the death of Stalin in 1953. The subsequent levelling of

the camp and surrounding graves has made any serious

research into the site difficult to say the least. Although a

lot of people died here, there are no records of the exact

numbers or, with very few exceptions, just exactly who

these people were. The actual site of the camp and most

of its original buildings are long gone, although immedi-

ately to the rear is a wooded area where some of those

who perished can be found in a number of graves. With

the help of several concerned foreign embassies and a

handful of Lithuanians the wood has been turned into a

place of remembrance complete with an ever growing

number of memorials. There’s also a small museum (see

below) commemorating the camp’s dual roles during its

16-year lifespan. Plans are currently underway to create

a proper memorial to those who suffered and lost their

lives in the camp, including the construction of a large

wall of remembrance. Despite the lack of information, the

former camp is still worth visiting by anyone with even a

passing interest in the recent history of the region. Find

it just off route 141 a couple of kilometres east of Šilutė.

Look for the large Macikų Koncentracijos Stovyklos Vieta

signs and keep driving until you reach the end of the track.

Museum Tel. (+370) 441 622 07. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,

Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 1/0.50Lt.

14th century

In 1328 the Livonian Knights agree to transfer Klaipėda and

its surrounding area to the German Order of Prussia.

City Birthday

August 1, www.mlimuziejus.lt

Taking place on the territory around the Castle Museum

(see p.23), this one-day affair honours some of the city’s

heroes of culture and puts on a splendid show known

as Visit to the Medieval Town, harking back to a bygone

age and introducing visitors to the old traditions of folk

dance, song and chivalry.

15th century

In 1418 the city of Caloypeda (Latin for Klaipėda) is first

mentioned in written sources. In 1455 Klaipėda is occupied

by Samogitian (Žemaitian) forces for the first time.

Galleries

Baroti Galerija O-7, Aukštoji 1, tel. (+370) 46 31 35

80, www.barotigalerija.lt. One of the best contemporary

galleries in the city, showcasing work in several media from a

wide selection of Lithuanian and international artists. Q Open

11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA

KKKC Parodų Rūmai N-7, Aukštoji 1/2, tel. (+370) 46

31 44 43. The largest exhibition space in the western half

of the country organises exhibitions of all types from folk to

experimental art, and features the work of artists from Lithu-

ania and abroad. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J

Parko Galerija N-7, Turgaus 9, tel. (+370) 652 111

12, www.parkgallery.com. An interesting little gallery

showcasing locals contemporary art of varying styles in just

about all media. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. J

Pėda N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 46 31 02 34, www.

karciauskas.com. A substantial gallery on two floors featur-

ing the work of the intriguing local artist Vytautas Karčiauskas

(b. 1954). All of the pieces on display are for sale. Look for the

large dragon on the wall opposite. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat

10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

16th century

In 1525 during the Reformation in Prussia, the Lithuanian

Protestant Church is established. In 1540 a large fire destroys

large parts of the city.

Satta Outside

August 12 - 15, www.sattaoutside.lt

The notorious Vilnius underground club’s annual seaside

holiday takes place this year in Šventoji (see sventoji.in-

yourpocket.com) some 45km north of Klaipėda. A mixed

bag of music and art is promised this year, although at

the time of going to press little more was known about

precise details.

17th century

Swedish forces control the city from 1629 until 1635 . By

1657 the merchants of Klaipėda are granted the privilege to

develop their sea trade independently of the Prussian govern-

ment, enabling the city and its port to expand.

Tall Ships Regatta

August 18 - 21, www.tallships.lt

Organised as part of the Finnish city of Turku’s status

as one of the European Capitals of Culture 2011, this

magnificent event features some fine old ships racing

between Finland and Poland and dropping in to Lithuania

on the way. As well as the ships themselves, other events

around the city are planned.

18th century

Russia occupies the Klaipėda region from 1757 until 1762 .

During the second half of the century the city grows rapidly

and the port hosts nearly 1,000 ships annually.

19th century

In 1808 Klaipėda becomes the temporary capital of the

Kingdom of Prussia whilst Napoleon occupies Berlin. By 1812

Russian forces occupy the area again. In 1854 another fire

consumes the city, causing massive damage. Klaipėda is

subsequently rebuilt using stone. In 1860 the first gymna-

sium is founded. By 1871 the newly founded German Empire

controls the city and continues to do so until the end of WWI.

The Nemunas and the port are connected in 1873 via the

King Wilhelm Canal.

EuroBasket 2011

August 31 – September 5, www.eurobasket.lt

The city’s new Švyturys Arena (see left) plays host to

Group B of the event of the year. Note that the finals

however are being played in Kaunas.

Photography

Photography Gallery (Klaipėdos Fotografijos

Galerija) N-7, Tomo 7, tel. (+370) 615 494 70, www.

photoartklaipeda.lt. A branch of the Lithuanian Photogra-

phers Union, this small gallery was recently put in the hands of

a small team of young and energetic locals hoping to breathe

some new life into what’s been up until recently a rather

dreary gallery. Check the website for upcoming exhibitions.

Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Theatres

Klaipėda Drama Theatre (Klaipėdos Dramos Teat-

ras) M-7, Taikos 70 (Žvejų Rūmai), tel. (+370) 46 31 44

53, www.kldteatras.lt. The main theatre in the city, putting

on a wide range of plays alas in the Lithuanian language only.

Q Box office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun

10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Klaipėda Puppet Theatre (Klaipėdos Lėlių Teatras)

O-7, Vežėjų 4, tel. (+370) 46 23 99 32, www.klaipedosle-

liuteatras.lt. Unusual for a puppet theatre behind the former

Iron Curtain, this one was founded long after independence in

2000. Aimed at bringing traditional and modern puppetry to a

predominantly young audience, the theatre offers productions

as well as workshops and other activities throughout the year.

Q Box office open Wed, Thu 15:00 - 17:00. Also an hour before

the performance. J

Klaipėda State Musical Theatre (Muzikinis Teat-

ras) N-5/6, Danės 19, tel. (+370) 46 39 74 04, www.

klaipedosmuzikinis.lt. Everything from musical shows for

children to the work of Wagner. Q Box office open 11:00 -

14:00, 15:30 - 18:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J

20th century

At the end of WWI the Treaty of Versailles severs Klaipėda

from German rule and places it as a protectorate of the

Entente states. In 1923 the Klaipėda Revolt (actually an

invasion) forces the city into Lithuanian hands although the

region retains much autonomy from the rest of Lithuania. On

March 22, 1939 the Nazis take control of the city and stay

until its liberation by the Red Army on January 28, 1945 .

Nearly two-thirds of the city is destroyed during WWII. Many

inhabitants flee or are deported. Klaipėda, like the rest of

Lithuania, comes under Soviet rule until 1990 . After Inde-

pendence, the University of Klaipėda is founded. In 1997 , in

Klaipėda In Your Pocket

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2011 - May 2012

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