Cesky Krumlov.pdf

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV

August - September 2007

Culture

Explore this UNESCO

World Heritage site

(In)Action

To paddle or to float?

N°2

www.inyourpocket.com

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV

This beautiful medieval city almost encircled by the mean-

dering Vltava River hasn’t managed to escape the modern

travails of 21st century tourism. Historical facades are

festooned with nick-nacks nobody needs, sidewalk cafés

hawk takeaway cocktails to thirsty tourists on the fly

and drenched rafters gallivant around in Speedos. Yet

despite this, Český Krumlov has retained its dignity. One

of Europe’s largest castles watches over its citizens from

its lofty hilltop perch flaunting its bizarre bell tower so

colourful it’s almost garish. Ancient oak balconies hang

precariously from centuries old townhouses supporting

the weight of their inhabitants who prefer the relative

seclusion of the second floor to the manic streets below.

Finally, the ancient lifeblood of the city, the Vltava, flows

past its borders bringing with it commerce, prosperity and

scenic vistas much as it did years ago.

Getting there

Where to stay

Prices rise for the summer and for festivals, when you

should also always book in advance. If you are willing to

risk it, almost every house and shop in town has at least

one private room ( zimmer in German, the more common

foreign language here) occupying the upstairs. Most

pensions have a restaurant (and vice versa) and the most

common method of cooking here is the open fire. Most

historical buildings do not have a lift, and none are allowed

A/C.

Hotels

Hotel Belarie Dlouhá 69, tel. 380 71 12 14, fax 380

71 18 50, info@belarie.cz, www.belarie.cz. Five rooms

bedecked in the grand Ludvik XIV style, which have lovely

original wooden ceilings and some stunning views.

Pension Jiřina Kozáková Zámecké Schody 10, tel.

380 71 23 35, fax 380 71 12 58, jirina.ubytovani@worl-

donline.cz, www.ubytovani-kozakova.cz. Three small and

tidy rooms are available above a souvenir shop right on the

castle steps. Private bathrooms and cable TV come standard,

but of particular interest are the showers with massage jets to

pummel your aching, castle-taming muscles and joints. More

than adequate and cheap.

Český Krumlov is easily accessible from Prague

by train or bus. The train station is located on the

outskirts of town, roughly a 25-minute walk from the

Old Town although a local bus from the Špičák stop,

just across the Latrán bridge on the north of the town,

cuts the walk down to a couple of minutes. Buses ar-

rive closer to the city centre, just a short walk past the

petrol station and onto Horní.

5 rooms (1 single 500 - 600Kč,

3 doubles 800 - 900Kč, 1 triple 1000 - 1200Kč). A

Pension Lobo Latrán 73, tel./fax 380 71 31 53, tel.

777 63 73 74, pensionlobo@cmail.cz, www.pensionlobo.

cz. This secluded pension offers rooms decorated in bright

pastels. Bleached pinewood furniture, TV and bathroom with

shower all come as standard. You can also wash your clothes

at its laundry (09:00 - 20:00).

By train (200km, approx. 207Kč)

Hlavní nádrazí - Český Krumlov dep. 06:17 arr. 09:51

Český Krumlov - Hlavní nádrazí dep. 18:07 arr. 21:54

This direct service only runs in the summer season

but take a train to Ceské Budejovice for connections to

Český Krumlov (by bus or train).

9 rooms (5 doubles 1000

- 1100Kč, 4 triples 1400Kč). A

Pension U Václava Nové Město 25, tel. 380 71 50 94,

uvaclava@quick.cz, www.uvaclava.cz. This classy little

hotel located on a quiet side street off of the main pedestrian

drag offers beautiful rooms with luxurious four-poster canopy

beds, antique furniture, hardwood floors, satellite TV, minibar,

CD player and huge bathrooms with bidets. The staff speaks

several foreign languages.

Events

National Geographic: Famous Expeditions of the 20th

Century

Until 30 Nov

From the Mudmen of Goroka to massive manta rays,

the superlative photography that exemplifies National

Geographic is an exhibition not to miss. A visual feast from

across the globe as well as photographic profiles of Czech

explorers Hanzelka and Zikmund and photo of Český Krumlov

by Libor Sváček. Admission 60/40Kč.

Where? Latrán 46, 1st Courtyard of the castle. Open

10:00 - 17:00.

5 rooms

(singles 1480 - 1980Kč, doubles 1980 - 2640Kč, triples

2550 - 3410Kč, quads 3150 - 4180Kč, extra bed 500Kč).

By bus (172km, approx. 160Kč)

Praha, Florenc - Český Krumlov dep. 08:15 arr. 11:30

Praha, Florenc - Český Krumlov dep. 10:15 arr. 13:30

Praha, Roztyly - Český Krumlov dep. 15:25 arr. 18:50

Český Krumlov - Praha, Roztyly dep. 05:20 arr. 08:25

ČK - Praha, Smíchovské nádrazí dep. 12:35 arr. 15:35

ČK - Praha, Smíchovské nádrazí dep. 17:30 arr. 20:15

AK hhh

Hotel Na Louži Kájovská 66, tel./fax 380 71 12

80, hotel@nalouzi.cz, www.nalouzi.cz. Identikit rooms

although the attic room is more stylish and offers a glimpse

of original oak beams and the like. Centrally located in a

medieval building on one of Old Town’s busiest shopping

streets.

Pension ve věži Pivovarská 28, tel. 380 71 17 42/721

52 30 30. Stay as close to the Eggenberg Brewery as pos-

sible and in a small tower, which of course produces unusually

curved rooms. Each floor holds two doubles and shares one

bathroom. Full of character rather than luxury.

Q (singles 2000 - 2400Kč, 7

Shuttle bus is a relatively new aspect of travel to and

from Linz , Austria primarily. Hostel 99 (www.hostel99.

com, tel. 721 75 07 86) runs a daily service at 11:00

and ShuttleLobo (www.shuttlelobo.cz, tel. 380 71 31

53) runs a shuttle at 09:00, 11:00 and 14:00 daily.

Both operators charge 450Kč and take about 90

mins.

11 rooms (4 doubles 1350Kč, 3 triples 1700Kč,

4 quads 2300Kč). AK

Švamberský dům Soukenická 35, tel. 380 71 13 42,

info@svamberskydum.cz, www.svamberskydum.cz. A

beautifully restored house dating to the Middle Ages with

Gothic elements and medieval frescoes on the facade. It

holds 6 rooms, four doubles on the first floor with a terrace

and views of the castle, while the lovely attic space holds two

apartments. Rooms are simple but spacious with wooden

furniture and some have a bathtub. It also has an excellent

restaurant with cellar and terrace.

The Český Krumlov International Music Festival presents

symphonies, philharmonics, blues and ballet in this, its

fourteenth year of festivities, which runs 20 July to 25 Aug

(www.festivalkrumlov.cz) and is followed by another annual

event, Jazz at Summer’s End from 5 - 8 Sept (www.jazz-

krumlov.cz).

4 rooms

(4 doubles 1200Kč).

Penzion U Slunce & Thallerův Dům nám. Svornosti 2,

tel. 380 70 46 21, fax 380 70 46 19, www.ckrumlov.cz.

Two central, clean, light and spacious pensions operated by

the efficient people at Infocentrum tourist office. U Slunce on

the main square has three doubles and an apartment for up

to 4 people, with TV and private bathrooms (700 - 1,000Kč).

Thallerův Dům has 7 apartments with kitchenettes, TV and

internet (800 - 1,200Kč).

And if you need a taxi in town, try Krumlov Taxi (tel.

380 71 27 12, www.taxi-krumlov.cz).

Hooray, Let’s Hurry to Krumlov

31 Aug - 8 Sept

For one week, the traditional festival of Folk & Country

music takes place in the town square, Náměstí Svornosti

featuring the winners of the country-wide finals of the Porta

competition as well as stars of the genres. Admission free

and see www.1ck.cz for more information.

IBK

Villa Conti Nové Město 25, tel. 380 71 50 94, fax 380

71 29 06, www.villaconti.cz. An opulently restored 16th

century house in a charming, quiet area of town, backing onto

the lovely brewery gardens. Family run and friendly, rooms

have satellite TV, a CD player and minibar plus frills in the

Romantic-esque rooms with four-poster beds.

Q A

Ubytování Rybářská Rybářská 1, tel. 380 71 55 29, anna.

salonova@post.cz, www.volny.cz/ubytovanirybarska. Find

U Draka café downstairs and rooms in a private historical house

alongside the Vltava. The balcony here has to be one of the best

spots on the river.

Q 7 rooms

Also, 8 - 9 Sept (www.ckrumlov.cz/disabled) welcomes

Disability Day , or to put it more aptly, two days without

obstacles. Various volunteers will make as many sights in

the castle, around town and within museums, as accessible

as possible for the disabled.

(6 doubles 2000Kč, 1 suite 2500Kč).

R hhh

4 rooms (4 doubles 900 - 1100Kč).

Pensions

Castle View Apartments Šatlavská 140, tel. 731 10

86 77, info@castleview.cz, www.castleview.cz. Not all

the apartments have castle views but one has a patio and

they all have comfortable furnishings, extra beds, unique

layouts, heated bathroom floors, a kitchenette, free internet

access and use of an mp3 player. Apartments will comfortably

fit 2 or 4, with up to 6 in some. A lovely, friendly and central

spot to lay your head.

The Czech patron saint, St. Wenceslas , celebrates his

feast day on 28 Sep and Český Krumlov hosts their own

celebrations in his honour on 28 - 30 Sept i n th e town sq uare

and various museums and galleries.

8 - 14 Oct sees the 33rd year of the International Film

Festival on the Environment and Natural and Cultural

Heritage EKOFILM 2007 festival . See www.ekofilm.cz for

further information.

PTARL

Pension Danny Latrán 72, tel. 380 71 27 10/608 03

21 95, pensiondanny@tiscali.cz, www.pensiondanny.cz.

A family run pension with some rooms small and functional

and others loaded with historical charm. Kettle, hair drier

and games available. The downstairs restaurant, U Králo

Jiřího (10:00 - 22:00) is a cheap and cheerful local haunt.

There’s more to this town than rafting, architecture and

beer so hop on a bus for the sights and sounds on offer in

beautiful Český Krumlov.

For more information and further details, go to www.

ckrumlov.cz/uk.

(doubles 790 - 1190Kč, triples 1240 - 1490Kč, quads

1490 - 1790Kč, extra bed 250 - 300Kč, pet 100Kč, just

test 201 - 231Kč).

Český Krumlov In Your Pocket

August - September 2007

doubles 2000 - 2400Kč).

Q 6 rooms (4 doubles

1600Kč, 2 suites 1900Kč, extra bed 500Kč).

Q 7 rooms (7 apartments 1800

- 5400Kč, extra bed 500Kč).

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV

Hostels

Hostel 99 Věžní 99, tel. 380 71 28 12/775 27 62 53,

hostel99@hotmail.com, www.hostel99.com. Realtively

cheap, friendly and a lively place to stay and hang. The attic

dorms are fresh and have no bunks, or choose a comfort-

able double or even Renaissance style private suites. The

kitchen and BBQ pit will appeal to the chef in you or head

to their good restaurant and bar. The courtyard is a great

place to mingle with the locals and transients while taking in

the lovely view and sucking down a brew - free keg of local

Eggenberg pivo on Wednesdays. They also offer good raft-

ing rates with a native English speaker for a guide.

Travellers’ Hostel Soukenická 40, tel./fax 380 71 13

45, krumlov@travellers.cz, www.travellers.cz. Beds are

clean and the atmosphere is definitely suitable for backpack-

ers looking to meet new people over many beers. The cool

top-floor apartment is worth the splurge. popular bar, laundry

service, internet access, game room and communal kitchen

available although the restaurant is worth a look. U Šneka

Hostel has merged with Travellers now and the lobby for both

is here.

Krčma U Dwau Maryí Parkán 104, tel. 380 71 72

28. Classic Czech (Bohemian) cuisine - large plates of meat,

cabbage and dumplings - plus some recipes and ingredients

that have otherwise been consigned to history. Enjoy hearty

meals with millet, buckwheat and barley or dip into their

daisy soup. A medieval house with an appropriate menu and

friendly service in a lovely setting. Sup some mead...

Want some history?

Q Open

Český Krumlov is a stunningly well-preserved medieval

town picturesquely nestled in tight meanders of the Vltava

River as it wends its way through the Czech Republic’s

largest protected area, the Šumava National Park. Český

Krumlov lies in southern Bohemia about 180km south

of Prague and close to the Budvar-producing city of České

Budějovice. Krumlov is derived from the German Krumme

Aue meaning ‘crooked meadow’ while Český simply

means Czech (or Bohemian) and there is a city named

Moravský Krumlov, in Moravia (or Silesia).

Kristínka Dlouhá 94, tel. 380 71 15 33/608 90 20 80.

With a terrace on the mill stream of the Vltava and excellent

Czech dishes, this restaurant - with attached pension of

rooms off a lovely courtyard - is quiet, friendly and beautifully

located.

Q 101 beds (300 -380Kč/person with shared facili-

ties, doubles and apartment 450 - 600Kč).

U Šneka Panská 19, tel. 380 71 13 45/731 56 41 44,

www.travellers.cz. The Snail offers one of the funkiest rooms

we’ve ever seen which includes an antique wooden ceiling high

above, a working record player with a generous selection of

vinyl from Eddy Grant to Bon Jovi and a bathtub and toilet in the

corner hidden by curtains. Dorms aren’t as interesting but are

clean and comfortable. With an internet café, and the Rock Bar

downstairs is one of the most reliable spots to get a late night

beer. Reception is at the Traveller’s Hostel across the street.

Q Dorm 300Kč/person. Double 450Kč. RK

Where to eat

Q Dorm

beds from 250 - 350Kč.

Hostel Ryba Rybářská 5, tel. 380 71 18 01/606 37

03 53. Private house partly converted into functional dorms

(one with 7 beds, one with 4) plus one double room. Bathroom

facilities are somewhat basic so it might be better to stay here

with your mates, rather than strangers. Cheap and beautifully

located however.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. (150 - 400Kč).

Laibon Parkán 105, tel. 728 67 66 54, www.laibon.cz.

A vegeatrian paradise in this paradise of a town. Sit inside

or out for an huge though sadly similarly tasting variety of

veggie delights of lentils, couscous, tofu, etc. prepared with

international leanings... Indian, Middle Eastern, Californian,

Italian, with salads and desserts too.

Český Krumlov was settled in the 13th century and

remains renowned primarily for fine architecture and

Krumlov Castle , the second largest in the country after

the Hradčany castle complex in Prague. Her unrivalled

beauty and preserved Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque

elements led to the old town being deemed an Historical

Urban Reservation in 1963 and in 1992, UNESCO

declared ČK a World Heritage Site . However, ČK isn’t

just an open air museum; she also provides numerous

cultural and sporting activities including some stunning

day trips and hours spent messing about on the river.

Q 250Kč per bed.

Krumlov House Hostel Rooseveltova 68, tel. 380 71

19 35/728 28 79 19, info@krumlovhostel.com, www.

krumlovhostel.com. Small, welcoming and full of freebies

(tea, coffee, ice skates, tubes), exactly as a hostel should

be. Get an uncrowded bed in this 24 guest maximum hostel

with book swap, kitchen, games, guitars, movies, party info

and informative and artistic map.

Q Open 10:00 - 23:00.

T6UGB

Pivnice at the Old Inn Náměstí Svornosti 12, tel. 380

77 25 00, www.hoteloldinn.cz. As you descend deeper and

deeper, the odour of smoke invades you nostrils. But it’s not

fire or brimstone of the biblical sense, rather the sweet smell

of grilled meat. Pig, steer and chicken regularly roast over the

coals in this 13th century beer hall beneath Old Town Square.

Q 7 rooms (3 doubles 300

- 400Kč, triples 300 - 375Kč, 1 quad 250 - 375Kč, 2 apart-

ments 400 - 450Kč, 1 dorm beds 250 - 375Kč).

Skippy Hostel Plešivecká 123, tel. 380 72 83 80,

hostelskippy@hotmail.com, www.skippy.wz.cz. Staying

here feels like a get away from your get away. In addition to

dorms, there is a single and a rather romantic double room

for those who desire privacy. The wooden balcony is a great

place to soak up some rays while checking out the canoers.

The owner, Skippy, can be seen strumming her guitar while her

dogs parade around. There’s also a small kitchen for prepar-

ing food. Make sure to duck when walking through doorways

for all you taller folk.

Restaurants

Barbora Široká 89, tel. 380 71 27 91, www.hotel-

barbora.cz. Good for a little romance and great food, this

upmarket restaurant with flagstone floors and a charming

summer terrace hovering over a tributary of the Vltava offers

homemade pastas and sausages as well as Czech favourites,

steaks and fish dishes named after local royalty. The view of

the river and the castle looming high above is enough reason

to pay a visit. The hotel has 4* and 2* sections.

Pizzeria Nonna Gina Latrán 52 (Klášterní ul.), tel. 380

71 71 87. Authentic Italian cuisine is this restaurant which is

especially lovely in summer with its tucked away terrace. They

have rooms upstairs too.

Český Krumlov was first mentioned in a letter in 1253,

but legend states the Přemyslovci slaughtered a rival

family and gave the town and castle to relatives, the

Witigonen (or Vítkovci in Czech), the first Lords of

Krumlov, way back in 995. From 1302 the House of

Rosenberg owned the town and castle, having taken

their name from nearby Rožmberk castle where they

also lived. At this time, the Latrán, the pedestrianised

old town of today, was haphazardly laid out below the

castle in a horseshoe bend in the river and until 1555

Krumlov consisted of two independent towns – Latrán

and Krumlov, which was situated on the farther side of

the river and around today’s old town square.

Q Open

Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. B

Rybářská bašta Jakuba Krčína Kájovská 54, tel.

777 77 62 56. Fairly dark interior but it does have a

non-smoking section and there is efficient service on the

summer terrace. Limited fresh and sea water fish specials

to match a limited but equally as tasty wine menu. Jakuba

Krčína was a Rosenberg expert water manager. Check out

the original 16th century frescoes.

Café Retro Hradební 60, tel. 380 72 79 99, www.pizzak-

rumlov.cz. Locals’ favourite and the town’s most child-oriented

location. Cocktails join pizza and pasta and a fairly good wine list

in the restaurant and terrace, where families sit while the kids play

in the superb adventure playground right alongside (but walled)

the river.

Beds from 200Kč.

The Vltava has long been a natural transportation route and

towns on these trade routes rise and fall in importance with

time and alternate paths. The Bavarian salt trade route in

the 16th century, its profitability resulted in it being named

Zlatá (golden), created important towns on its path, but

in 1706, another salt trade route, named Linz connected

Austrian countries and Bohemia and ČK became the salt

store. Economic stagnation followed the Thirty Year War

(1618 - 1648) when the town was garrisoned by Imperial

troops, leading to invasion by Swedish troops in 1648.

Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. (80 - 150Kč). TBS

Hospoda 99 Věžní 99, tel. 380 71 38 13. Whether you’re

staying at the adjacent hostel or not, Hospoda 99 makes an

excellent spot to sit, relax, drink and enjoy some of the best

Czech and American-inspired dishes in town. Join the locals

and tourists on the lovely terrace or inside with a lounge, good

food, good beer and good service... and all at reasonable

prices. The kitchen closes at 23:00 but the bar does not...

Q Open 11:00 - 22:00.

Švejk Latrán 12. The Good Soldier Švejk has sadly had

his name attached to some terribly tourist places but this is

a good local hangout with typical Czech fare and Gambrinus

at excellent prices within its wooden walls. Entry is from the

castle steps.

Open 10:30 - 22:00. (70 - 250Kč).

U Bejka Linecká 41. Great food with enormous portions

inside the atmospheric space or on the terrace with view to

St. Vitus church and with live music most nights.

IEB

Krčma Barbakán Horní 26, tel. 380 71 26 79, www.

krcmabarbakan.cz. Perched high above the river in the

original fortifications of the city is Barbakán. Its medieval soul

hasn’t been exorcised yet as young maidens in costumes

scamper about with trays of golden beers and grilled meats

under vaulted ceilings or out on the expansive summer terrace

overlooking the valley.

In 1602 Emperor Rudolf II bought Krumau and it became

another centre for alchemy then in 1622 Ferdinand II gave

Krumau to the House of Eggenberg who ruled until 1719, when

the House of Schwarzenberg took over (and remained owners

until war changed everything in 1945). By 1919 there were

some 7,300 Germans and 1,300 Czechs living in the town.

Open

16:00 - 24:00. EB

Cafés & Tea rooms

Café Van Gogh Masná 130. Colourful café with mellow

mood and various board games on offer in its wooden and

stone interior littered with eclectic furniture and folk. Pizza

and snacks help sop the full bar and good coffee.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. Open 11:00

- 24:00. (Winter hours 15:00 - 24:00). (100 - 300Kč). B

Krčma u Šatleska Horní 157, tel. 380 71 33 44. This

medieval alcove is the home of the bread bowl onion soup

in these parts. Its vaulted ceiling is blackened by the smoke

emanating from the wrought iron grill, the source of all of its

dishes and, with the exception of a few candles, its only source

of illumination. A group of musicians entertain in the evening

and woo tourists into submission with their siren’s song.

After WWI, Krumau lay within the Republic of German

Austria until November 1918 when Czech troops

occupied the town and it remained in Czechoslovakia

until 1938 when Nazi Germany annexed the town and

incorporated it into the Sudetenland. Her German

inhabitants were expelled in 1945 as part of the

controversial Beneš Decrees and Český Krumlov was

restored to Czechoslovakia. During the communist

era, the town fell into disrepair but since 1989’s Velvet

Revolution and tourist influx, the superb architecture has

been lovingly and beautifully restored.

Open

10:00 - 22:00.

Deli 99 Věžní 99. From the Hospoda/Hostel empire comes

this lovely café with fresh baked bread, delicious sandwich

combos, bagels and pastries to sate small hungers. Illy cof-

fee available to go as well as to savour in the comfortable

room with excellent photos and newspapers.

Q Open 07:00

Lubor Mrázek

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 300Kč).

IEB

- 19:00.

GSW

Český Krumlov In Your Pocket

August - September 2007

11:00 - 24:00.

(80 - 150Kč).

Open 17:00 - 01:00. (100 - 300Kč).

11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 500Kč).

(120 - 500Kč).

Open 10:00 - 01:00.

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV

State Castle & Chateau of Český Krumlov

Divadelní kavarná Ántré Horní 2, tel. 603 33 63

20, www.klubantre.cz. Small café with full bar and

limited menu (pancakes and a few grilled meals) in the

city theatre. The lovely terrace, high above the river and

old town is oddly but delightfully deserted. Bernard beer

22Kč.

Zapa Bar Latrán 15, tel. 380 71 25 59. Cocktails and

bottled beer in booths upstairs while the cellar has a well of

river water as its centrepiece. The building has some of the

few remaining Gothic frescoes inside and was home to Gabriel

de Blonde, a Dutch Renaissance painter whose works are in

the I and IV castle courtyards.

New Year and summer concerts. There is no entrance fee, but

the clergy urge you to refrain from visiting during services. The

small building next door with Renaissance and almost Moorish

elements was a parish school from the 14th century and has

been a music school since 1780... the musical tradition in Český

Krumlov is a long one and continues to this day.

Latrán The settlement adjacent to the castle complex is

called Latrán, from the Latin latus meaning ‘side.’ This old town

with its winding cobbled alleys and admired Gothic and Renais-

sance houses, galleries, shops and pubs, restaurants and

hotels was placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1992.

The Eggenberg brewery and gardens are located here.

Egon Schiele Art Centrum Široká 70-72, tel. 380 70 40

11, www.schieleartcentrum.cz. Like so many other famous

artists, Mr. Schiele (1890 - 1918) was only appreciated after his

death - at least in this town. The story goes that this Viennese

artist (much more talented than contemporary Schickelgruber)

set up shop in this little town (where his mother was born) in

1911 and shocked its inhabitants with his Bohemian lifestyle

and ability to convince local maidens (and men) to pose in the

nude. After being boycotted - nobody greeted him and children

were forbidden to visit him - he soon left town although he did

return to Český Krumlov almost every year until his premature

death and now his works are proudly displayed in this cultural

centre that bears his name. Exhibitions this year include, for

the first time in the Czech Republic, an exhibition of work from

Keith Haring loaned by the Keith Haring Foundation in New

York. Also, abstract paintings from contemporary artist Petr

Kvíčala (b. 1960), an installation on the facade of the gallery

entitled Krumlov’s Madonna by Veronika Bromová (b. 1966,

Praha) and a group exhibition entitled Young Artists from New

Yo r k featuring Midori Harima, Cassandra C. Jones, Vadis Turner,

Annysa Ng and Peter Maslow. There is also a lovely café on

site. The building, on the town’s widest street, was home to

the town brewery from 1608 (Latrán was a separate town with

its own brewery) until WWII. Renovations were made in 1993.

Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120Kč. K

Regional Museum of National History (Regionální

muzeum) Horní 152, tel. 380 71 16 74, www.muzeum.

ckrumlov.cz. An eclectic collection of relics, maps, furniture,

old paintings and archaeological artefacts can be found here on

three floors. Chain mail, wooden depictions of tortured saints

and an impressive ceramic scale model of the town as well as

a reconstituted apothecary, folk costumes and 19th century

farming equipment are all available for your perusal. The building

once housed a short-lived Jesuit Seminary (1650 - 1652), was

the first Baroque building in town and was established as a

museum in 1946. Don’t miss the stunning views from its lofty

position.

The tall, easily defended rock cliffs jutting over the

Vltava was populated long before the oldest parts

of today’s castle and church were founded. The first

settlement of the castle promontory dates back to

the Bronze Age but the Gothic origins of the castle

date to 1250 and the first Lords of Krumlov, the

Witigonens or Víteks, who settled the lower, tower

side. In 1302 , the Rosenbergs inherited the castle

and kept it as their seat. Their three centuries of

rule were golden times for the town and the castle

was slowly converted into a superb Renaissance

residence with the newer upper castle built along

with the connecting bridge - aristocrats it seems

do not like to be at the whim of the weather. The

Eggenberg family was then given the castle by

Ferdinand II who had bought the dominion in 1602

but the subsequent tribulations of the Thirty Year

War regressed the area culturally and economically

although the castle was converted again, this time

into a Baroque seat. In 1719 the castle was inherited

by the Schwarzenbergs who initially kept the social

and artistic elements of Viennese life in the castle,

but the 19th and 20th centuries saw the castle

stagnate as it was no longer inhabited. The interior is

a m a zi n gl y i n t a c t a n d c a n b e vi e we d o n a gu i d e d to u r i n

a variety of languages. The history of bear-keeping at

Český Krumlov Castle goes back to the 16th century,

the era of the last Rosenbergs and bears have been

kept in the moat since 1707 . The castle area, one

of the largest in Europe, comprises forty buildings

and palaces situated around five courtyards and a

park spanning eleven hectares. The whole complex

was recorded in the UNESCO List of World Cultural

and Natural Heritage in 1992.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (70

- 125Kč). EGB

Dobrá čajovna Latrán 54, tel. 777 65 47 44, www.

tea.cz. This fantastic tea house and shop provides delicious

teas from all over the world as well as a comfortable place

- just below the castle - in which to enjoy them. Dobrá čajovna

means good tea, and it is... good enough to be all over the

country and in Bratislava. Somewhat pricey though. Snacks

and small, mostly veggie, meals are available.

Open 18:00 - 01:00.

Q Open

What to see

The sublimley beautiful jewel that is Český Krumlov is domi-

nated by two landmarks: the castle complex pinpointed by

its 16th century cylindrical tower and the gothic Church of St.

Vitus. One of the most rewarding aspects of a visit to ČK is

wandering the historical old town area of Latrán and partak-

ing of the town’s myriad cultural attractions. The summer

months do tend to block the narrow streets of town with tour-

ists however, but summer also allows for some river antics...

Activities

Ice Hockey/Summer Cinema Chvalsinská 110, tel. 380

71 31 73. The local team, HC Slavoj Český Krumlov founded

in 1945, play here in the winter. If you are here in the summer,

opposite the stadium is the outdoor summer cinema (kino) which

shows films at 21:30 on most Wed, Fri & Sat. Tickets 80Kč.

Kino J&K Špičák, tel. 380 71 18 92. Shows at 18:30

except 18:00 on Saturday and closed Sunday. Listings can

be found at Infocentrum.

Slupenec Horseback Riding Club Slupenec 1, tel.

380 71 10 52/723 83 24 59, www.jk-slupenec.cz. Indoor

lessons, trail riding and day or more long trips in the beautiful

countryside around Český Krumlov. Prices begin at 250Kč per

hour. The club is 1.5km from the town centre and has a hospoda

on site offering the usual fare (closed Mondays).

13:00 - 22:00.

U dvou Andělů Panská 17, tel. 602 20 40 44. The Two

Angels offers heavenly Illy coffee, huge sandwiches for just

40Kč, fresh medovník cake, plus full bar and other snacks

in their photographic menu. Join the locals at this tiny café in

the centre of town.

Open 07:00 - 24:00.

By night

Babylon Rybářská 6. As close to perfect as we found…

historical building, open fire inside for the grilling of meat

and for winter warmth and a summer terrace inches from

the river. Cheap beer, good food and great times. Sit, relax

and watch the frantic people go by.

Open 11:00 - 23:00.

IBK

Gorilla Rybářská 5. Late night drinking with a dedicated

crowd, pool and foosball tables and jukebox. Young back

rooms, older at the bar.

Q Open 17:00 - 02:00.

Horor Bar Masná 129, tel. 728 68 27 24. This place has

no sign but look for the dwarf skeleton outside and enter at

your own risk - this is truly a bar of horrors. The stone stairway

is lined with red candles, skeletons hang suspended from

the ceiling and a spinning glass showcase displays a variety

of absinth. In the back room is a jukebox and an out of tune

piano. If you warm-up to the barman, he’ll grab his flashlight

and show you the human teeth embedded in the ceiling

above. Simple fare here; beans and sausages a.k.a. fingers of

Dracula.

Q TBK

The Schwarzenbergs (1719 - 1947) left the perfectly

preserved Baroque Theatre ( Z á m e cké di va dl o) wi th

its priceless collection of original scenery, costumes,

props and still functional machinery. This theatre is a

monument so valuable that the only one comparable

to it in the world is Sweden’s Drottningholm theatre

from 1766.

Sights

Krumlov Castle , tel. 380 70 47 21, www.castle.

ckrumlov.cz. The Czech Republic’s second largest castle

was first mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1253 as the seat

of the Vítek family, but it didn’t take on its Renaissance and

Baroque appearance until much later under the Rosenbergs

and Eggenbergs. The interior is amazingly intact and can be

viewed on two guided tours and in a variety of languages. If you’d

like to save a few crowns, you can walk through the courtyards

and impressive gardens free of charge. The 54.5m tall tower

is worth the small entrance fee if you don’t mind climbing 162

steps to the viewing platform and there is a spectacular view

of the town from the 5th courtyard. Upon entering the castle

don’t forget to take a peak into the moat which is home to

sleepy bears.

Hospoda U Baby Rooseveltova 68, tel. 775 98 35 77.

Local favourite next to the Krumlov House Hostel full of great

beer, lovely terrace, impromptu jams and filling Czech dishes

to soak up all the beer. Open late for raucous times.

Open 17:00 - 05:00. (50Kč - 80Kč).

The 54.5m Gothic/Renaissance Castle Tower

(Zámecká vez) rises six stories above the castle

courtyards and provides a stunning view of this

beautiful town – if you can manage the 162 steps to

the viewing platform.

Q Open

La Bohéme Soukenická 34, tel. 380 71 32 84. With

nearly 300 mixed drinks listed on its menu, this cosy bar

has earned its bragging rights in the cocktail arena, although

the choice of music leaves much to be desired. Relax on

comfortable leather chairs with a vague plantation vibe on

two floors and get a discount from 17:00 - 18:30. Popular

with local ladies avoiding beer drinkers.

Open May to Sept 10:00 - 17:00; July & Aug 10:00

- 18:00; Mar to Apr & Oct to Dec 09:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun

13:00 - 16:00. Admission 50/25Kč. Closed Mondays.

Eggenberg Brewery Latrán 27, tel. 380 71 14 26,

www.eggenberg.cz. Ceský Krumlov was granted a charter

to brew beer and in 1560, a new town brewery was built to

supply demand. In 1622 the Eggenberg family gained con-

trol of Krumlov and between 1625 & 1630, they relocated

the brewery to where it is today. The next ruling family, the

Schwarzenbergs, baroqued the building from 1719 and in

1882, the first steam equipment was installed. Pivovar Egg-

enberg hosts guided tours and beer tasting of their light and

dark lagers, and do experiment with the yesty and unfiltered

beer. Tours at 11:00 only. Admission 100Kč, with two beers

130Kč, with all you can eat and drink 480Kč. There is a pivnice

on the premises in what was the ice store of old where today

you can enjoy Czech food (open 11:00 - 22:00) and of course

Eggenberg beer.

The Castle Gardens ( Z á m e cká zah ra da) are som e o f

the largest in Central Europe and have, over the years

been fashioned from the Baroque to the Rococo,

then Classicist and finally into an English garden in

the 19th century. Elements of all styles remain and

the gardens are dominated by the Rococo Bellaria

summerhouse and cascading fountain . The 17th

century Baroque gardens form the largest part of

the entire castle complex. The castle gardens and

courtyards can be explored for free. The revolving

auditorium invokes a magical time of amphitheatres,

where the night sky and suberb surroundings (in this

case the castle gardens and Rococo summer house)

seem to amplify the sounds of Mozart, Shakespeare

and Dvořák to name a few.

The Lapidarium contains an exhibition of original

Baroque statues from around the castle.

Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Guided tour

of castle 160Kč, guided tour of theatre 180Kč, tower 35Kč,

lapidarium 20Kč. Ticket office is in the 2nd courtyard.

St. Vitus Church After you’ve taken in the castle which

dominates the town, you’ll probably notice the thin spire of

St. Vitus Church. Built on the same ground as a 14th century

church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it wasn’t completed until

nearly 40 years had passed, saving it from potential destruc-

tion during the Hussite wars. All that remains from this church is

the mosaic above the door. The neo-Gothic spire wasn’t added

until the 19th century replacing the original Baroque dome.

Inside, the altar (1863) is typically Baroque and depicts St.

Vitus and the Virgin Mary and is adorned with the Eggenberg

and Schwarzenberg coat of arms. The side chapels were added

in the 19th century. The Gothic organ dating to the 1500s is

currently under repair and there is a small Baroque replace-

ment. In addition to religious services, the church is used for

Open 15:00

- 02:00. AB

Restaurace Cikánská jizba Dlouhá 31, tel. 380 71

75 85. The tiny Gypsy Room may not seem like much dur-

ing the day, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find a seat here in

the evening when the Roma come to perform their music.

Passers-by often hover outside for a glimpse of the talented

minstrels serenading women and encouraging men to drink.

Come early for Roma cuisine and you may not leave till long

past the witching hour.

Open 15:00 - 24:00.

Q IBK

Český Krumlov In Your Pocket

August - September 2007

15:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV

Day tripping

Graphite Mine (Grafitový důl) Chvalšinská ul., tel.

380 71 11 70, www.ckrumlov.cz/grafitovydul. The area

around the town has a long history of mining gold, silver and

graphite. This 70m deep mine has a 2km (c. 80 mins) sight-

seeing tour which you ride into the mine on the old miners’

train. All equipment is provided and tours are very informative,

plus being a cool respite on hot days. Bookings must be made

in advance and tours are available in English and German.

Open Nov to

Apr 10:00 - 16:00; Oct 10:00 - 17:00; May, June & Sept 10:00

- 18:00; July & Aug 10:00 - 20:00 Admission 80/30Kč.

House of Photography Šatlavská 141, tel. 380 71 22

06, www.waxmuseumprague.cz. This small hall features

periodic exhibitions of local as well as international photog-

raphers’ works. Currently on display for the season are works

of Jan Saudek and photos from Sará Saudková .

Tourist information

Český Krumlov is close to the Šumava National Park,

the Czech Republic’s largest national park at 70,000

hectares. These mountains lie along the border with

Austria and Germany and offer a range of natural habitats

- peat bogs, Alpine meadows, primeval forests, lakes,

and rivers. The area is popular with walkers, cyclists,

and canoeists on the Vltava plus skiers come winter.

See www.npsumava.cz for further information. Some

other day trips are listed below…

Open June to Aug 09:00 - 17:30; Sept to May 09:00 - 16:00

Mon to Fri only. Admission 200/100Kč.

Revolving Theatre Castle Gardens, www.otacive-

hlediste.cz. Experience this incredible setting for some

cultural performances at this unusual stage where open air

performances light up the summer evenings. This year sees

Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake ( 31 July to 4 Aug at 21:00), Dumas’

The Three Musketeers ( 6 - 11 Aug at 21:00) and Hrubín’s

Beauty and the Beast ( 15 Aug to 2 Sept at 20:30), which was

written specifically to be performed at this theatre.

Infocentrum

www.ckrumlov.cz/infocentrum

The helpful staff can organise accommodation, tickets

for concerts, excursions, rafting expeditions, car rental

and provide practical information and maps. Internet

access available.

Nám. Svornosti 2, tel. 380 70 46 22. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Open

10:00 - 18:00. Admission 80Kč.

Motorcycle Museum Široká 80, tel. 380 71 28 38.

Located above a rustic restaurant and antique shop is a

permanent exhibit of classic motorcycles from as early

as the 1920s. Roughly 30 motorbikes, most of which are

Czech-made JAWAs, are displayed in this hall which also

doubles as an art gallery. Two German bikes are also ex-

hibited including an old BMW with a sidecar.

Krumlov Tours

www.krumlovtours.com

Daily guided tours, heritage trips, private tours and

event organisation from these enthusiastic young

people who will also give advice on where to stay,

where to eat and will even organise your wedding for

you. Tickets from Infocentrum (listed below).

Vyšehrad 261, tel. 723 06 95 61. Open 08:00 - 17:00.

Rožmberk Castle (Hrad Rožmberk)

Rožmberk nad Vltavou, tel. 380 74 98 38, www.

hrad-rozmberk.cz. Rožmberk Castle is perched upon a

rocky outcrop above the Vltava 24km (40 mins by bus)

from Český Krumlov. Reservations are recommended

for tours that include various legends and ghosts, an

armoury, art gallery and various collections, as well

as the magnificent castle and two-storey chateau.

Explanation sheets in 12 languages are available free

of charge. Admission 140/80Kč, grand tour 200/150Kč,

torture room 20/15Kč.

Open June to Aug 09:00 - 17:15. Closed Mondays.

Q B

Town Hall Náměstí Svornosti 1. The original Gothic

structure from the 14th century was joined with the adjacent

structures to make one large structure around 1597. The

wealthy Čert family used to live here and today it houses

the Municipal Authority, the Municipal Police, a newsagent

and the Museum of Torture. The square it sits on is the

hub of the second area of Ceský Krumlov on an adjacent

loop of the river where most of the town’s sights are found,

including the landmark Church of St. Vitus. The square holds

the Marian Plague Column and fountain, erected in 1715 by

Matouš Václav Jäckel. Weddings still take place here, usually

on Fridays in the Czech Republic. Check out the coat of arms

on the facade and the macabre image of the crow pecking

the eyes out of a vanquished Turk (the Schwarzenberg fam-

ily). A gap above the guttering surrounds a view of the castle

tower. The square’s burgher houses are mostly Baroque,

with a couple of Renaissance facades and the oldest house,

a Gothic one originally, was redone in Empire style and sits

next to the Old Inn today.

Frescoes & Emblems As you walk through the winding

streets and alleys that comprise Český Krumlov, you will

probably notice repeated elements on the buildings... the five

petalled rose and, usually above the front door, depictions

of the Virgin Mary, painted on each home to safeguard the

house and its inhabitants. The private building with the KB

ATM next to the Egon Schiele museum on Široká ul. has a

tongue in cheek Virgin Mary as it’s depiction. The empty red

house waiting renovation was home to an alchymist around

1550 in the time of William of Rosenberg. The five petalled

rose was on the Rosenberg coat of arms, the town’s founding

family (as such) until the early 17th century.

City Theatre Horní Brána 2, tel. 380 72 73 70, www.

divadlo.ckrumlov.cz. This theatre was opened in 1993 after

extensive reconstruction of the building, but there has been

a theatre in Český Krumlov since the 17th century. As well

as hosting various performances, the theatre takes a lead

role in the Five Petal Rose and St. Wenceslas celebrations.

Q Open 09:00

- 18:00. Admission 90Kč.

Museum of Torture Náměstí Svornosti 1, tel. 380 76

63 43. The Museum of Torture is located in the medieval

cellars of the Town Hall where you will find a vast area filed

with instruments of torture, which you might want to use on

the busloads of tourists who clog ČK’s streets and alleys.

Some of the contraptions displayed here make Rodney King’s

ordeal look like a game of tag at an LAPD picnic. More of a

haunted house than a museum, many of the ‘exhibits’ are

down right silly, but people just can’t get enough cruelty, hence

its popularity. Or is it the medieval bondage gear that draws

the crowds?

Castle Tourist Service

www.visitceskykrumlov.cz

Another tourist office, this one in the heart of the

impressive castle complex offers much the same

services as the above.

1st Castle courtyard, tel. 380 72 51 10. Open 09:00

- 18:00.

Vyšší Brod Monastery (Klášter Vyšší Brod)

Vyšší Brod, tel. 380 74 66 74, www.vyssibrod.cz/klaster.

Vyšší Brod Cistercian Monastery, one of the largest

monastery complexes in Bohemia, was founded in 1259

by the Rosenberg family. The complex includes a Gothic

church, a Baroque art gallery, exhibitions showcasing

the Cistercian way of life, a postal museum and a large

library. Vyšší Brod is a 33km, 55 min bus ride from Český

Krumlov. Admission 135/100Kč (guides are mandatory,

minimum persons 5)

Open 09:00 - 11:30 & 13:15 - 16:15. Closed Mondays.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 80Kč.

Český Krumlov Discount Card

Discount cards for the family and the individual with

admission to select museums, a guided city tour

and dicounts on certain accommodation options. A

excellent way to get an introduction to this lovely town.

Cards can be purchased from the Castle Tourist

Service and Infocentrum .

Water sports

During the summer months a seemingly endless stream

of rafters, tubers, kayakers and canoers gently drift down

the Vltava often dropping anchor in Český Krumlov for

some RnR, to restock their beer supplies or just pick up

a cocktail from one fo the riverside bars. Those with an

aversion to water watch the adventurous sailors tackle the

rapids from the riverbanks and bridges or from the comfort

of beer gardens. If you’d like to join them on the river, rent

equipment or organise a holiday at the following places.

Cesta Sports , tel. 731 41 00 81, www.ck-cesta.cz.

Another marine outfitter and not just for the Vltava in Český

Krumlov. All you need for an afternoon or a week’s messing

about on the river.

The Post Office is at Latrán 193, tel. 380 71 17 62 and

is open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, closed Sun.

Zlatá Koruna Monastery (Klášter Zlatá Koruna)

Zlatá Koruna, tel. 380 74 31 26. Přemysl Otakar II, King

of Bohemia founded another Cistercian monastery in

1263 just 6km from Český Krumlov (15 mins by bus). The

complex consists predominately of Gothic buildings with

Baroque or Rococo additions with a three-nave basilica

forming the architectural heart of the monastery. The

convent is attached to the church and on the northern

side is the Chapel of the Guardian Angels (c. 1370), the

oldest preserved building of the monastery. There is a

permanent exhibition on Literature in South Bohemia and

on life at the monastery. Admission 85/40Kč

Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mondays.

If you need some reading matter, in whatever language

and for tourist needs or not, the lovely Prague book-

sellers Shakespeare & Sons have a new and used

store at Soukenická 44, open 11:00 - 19:00.

Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Expedicion Soukenická 33, tel. 607 96 38 68/731 57

25 93, www.expedicion.cz. Another outfitters for all your

rafting/canoeing needs, plus various other trips such as pad-

dling the Sahara (the mind boggles) and paintballing. Bookings

can also be made at the Pension U Pivovaru, Pivovarská 181.

Hluboká Castle (Státní zámek Hluboká)

Hluboká nad Vltavou, tel. 387 96 70 45. This early Gothic

castle, latterly remodelled as per Britain’s Windsor

Castle, was built around 1250. In 1562 Ferdinand I sold

Hluboká to the Lords of Hradec who converted the castle

into a Renaissance stately home. The Schwarzenberg

family had the chateau rebuilt in the Baroque style in the

18th century then which gradually incorporated Gothic

elements. The family never lived here permanently but

they took great care of the property until WWII when the

last owner of Hluboká, Prince Adolf Schwarzenberg, fled

the Nazis and post-war, Hluboká became the property

of the then Czechoslovak Republic. The exterior is as

sublime as the interior, complete with masters’ paintings,

D el f t c h i na, val ua bl e tap es tri es, i mpres si ve arm ou r y a n d

a Gothic Revival chapel. Hluboká is about 40km from ČK:

buses run regularly via České Budějovice.

Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Maleček Boat Rental Rooseveltova 28, tel. 602 74

40 74/380 71 25 08, fax 380 71 19 00, lode@malecek.

cz, www.malecek.cz. This excellent outfit provides canoe

and boats, routes (anything from one to six days rafting) and

transport of vessles and you to or from Český Krumlov. They

also offer wooden raft trips through the town giving another

perspective to the city’s sights.

Ticket office is open Tue & Thu 13:00 - 17:00 and for one

hour before each performance.

Fairytale House Radniční 29, tel. 380 71 34 22. Hun-

dreds of historical puppets of varying age, size and shape are

here from Bohemian peasants and Asian warriors to pirates,

goblins and devils. The puppets have been borrowed from the

Theatre Department of the National Museum and from the

Náprstek Museum of Asian, African and American Cultures in

Prague. Working theatre sets including a giant Ferris wheel will

keep the kids occupied while you check out the city’s oldest

Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Vltava Cestovní Agentura Kájovská 62, tel. 380 71 19

88, fax 380 71 19 78, www.ckvltava.cz. These all round guys

offer canoes and rafts, yachting on catamarans on a nearby lake,

bicycle rental and horseback riding. Boat rentals get a free bottle of

rum thrown in to add to the ambience...

Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Český Krumlov In Your Pocket

August - September 2007

fresco dating to the 14th century behind the cash desk. Skip

the cheesy chamber of mystery in the cellar.

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