Let's build the buffer tube! It's contained on one page and is pretty straightforward. The most "complex" part is the serrated central section, because in the interest of saving space (to fit it on one page), there's not enough room for proper tabs on one side of the serrated face, so the little gaps are to be used as tabs. If you keep that in mind it should be easy enough to figure out. The tube protrudes through the end rings for a little bit, and fits into the lower receiver's rear ring. (The dimensions of the back are the same for all receivers.) There is hatching on it to designate the location of the end rings. Page 2 This is the core of the stock. While on the M4 stock it was just a tube, now it's two layers with supports in between. The thing in the middle is the Central Tube, note the way it's folded, and that the tabs on the front face outwards. It should have a rectangular hole in the bottom. The Side Supports are the long pieces on either side of it, positioned towards the rear, with their bottoms (colored) flush with the bottom of the Central Tube (forming a flat horizontal bottom for everything). It's tempting to try and attach them the wrong way so remember that the bottom of this assembly should be flat. The rest of the supports are easy, they're just long boxes and there are hatched areas showing where they go. Two of them are missing in this image, because they're found on Page 3. Page 3. It adds an outside cover which goes on top of everything, and a two-part undercarriage with some hatching on it. There's also an undercarriage bridge (the piece with the holes), but don't attach it yet because there will be a mechanism that goes inside it, which can only be attached from the inside. The piece on the front is the "outer cover front," which is pretty straightforward except for the hexagonal parts that attach to everything else at an angle. They're a bitch to design and may still be slightly off. There's no way of knowing except by building the whole thing all over again. Let's assemble the latch, found on the top of page 4. It's explained in the pictures. You just have to make sure the "latch tooth" is affixed to the axle as shown, thread the axle through the holes in the undercarriage bridge, and then build the rest of the latch around it while making sure that it can rotate freely. Once the latch is complete, attach the undercarriage bridge to the rest of the stock. The rest of Page 4 is devoted to the "triangle," which has three layers: the innermost (1 piece with a ciruclar hole that has an internal border), the intermediate (5 pieces), and the external (1 piece). In the photo the backs of these aren't aligned very well, I'm in the process of fixing that. Note that at the front, the two outer layers have a vertical cutoff line matching the vertical line drawn on the innermost layer. Page 5. It has 3 fairly self-explanatory new components: The "triangle front," the butt, and the butt plate (spacer). There are also some internal supports for the latter because you want to lend some strength to two largely flat pieces that are expected to be sturdy. Just remember that the butt and butt plate are bent in the middle. Operation: extending the stock can either be done by pressing the latch up, or allowing the latch to go up by itself because of the angled serration on the buffer tube. It comes the whole way off, so I'd recommend the pictured configuration as the maximum extension. When you pull the latch down (or it drops down due to gravity), it holds the stock in place and prevents contraction. Thus, push the latch up to contract the stock.
rafini1