Artist Easel.pdf

ARTIST EASEL

Here's a materials list with everything you need to follow the plans. I'll explain in more detail later, but

the easel I built will hold a 7' tall painting, has a 4' wide shelf and stands about 7 1/2' tall total.

Wood:

(8) 2x4, 8' pine

(1) 1x2, 8' poplar

(1) 1x2, 2' pine

(1) 1/2" hardwood dowel

Hardware:

approx. 50 3" all-purpose phillips coarse thread screws

(1) 3/8" thumb screw (about 1.5" in length should do)

(4) 3 1/2" door hinges with screws

(4) lockable wheel casters (2 1/2" diameter)

(2) 4" long, 1/2" diameter carriage bolts

(6) 1/2" washers

(2) 1/2" hex lock nuts (nylon insert)

(2) 4" long, 3/8" diameter hex bolts

(2) 3/8" washers

(2) 3/8" wing nuts

(1) 3/8" square nut

Tools:

smallish crosscut hand saw

backsaw w/ mitre box

dovetail saw (optional)

1/2" wood chisel

phillips screwdriver

adjustable carpenter's square (with bubble level)

tape measure

power drill w/ bit set (up to 1/2")

jigsaw with wood cutting blade

a table or bench to construct on

some clamps

Below you'll find the plans to the easel I built, with all the lengths, dimensions, etc. However, as we go

along, I'll point out what you need to do to extend this design to suit any size painting.

fig. 1: side angle

fig. 2: front angle

Above are pictures of the finished easel and its supporting measured drawing below. I will stick with this

format throughout the site. The diagrams are fairly self-explanatory, but let me explain the few possibly

confusing things. In figure 4, notice where it says 'chisel for ctr. support'. If you look at the photo above,

you may be able to tell that the center support (1x2x7.5) is actually sitting inside of the bottom

horizontal brace, so that its face is flush with the brace. Here's a closeup of the front of the bottom

brace:

fig. 3: bottom brace with chiseled center support recess

This is essential so that the adjustable shelf, which isn't attached to that center support in any way, lies

flush against it. This way, if you have a painting which is narrower than 3 feet, it can simply lay against

the center support. Also notice the spacers in Fig. 5. These are narrower than the center support so that

the top clamp can easily slide up and down the center support (more later).

fig. 4: front angle (measurements)

fig. 5: side angle (measurements)

All of the lengths of the pieces for this section of the easel are listed in the drawings above. All pieces are

screwed together with No. 8 x 3" screws (as listed in the materials list ). Make sure you drill pilot holes for

each screw before you drive it...something like 3/32 should do it. You might want to experiment on a test

piece first.

Notice the joints--I've cut out pieces of the vertical supports to hold the horizontal supports in place. The

top two supports are attached on the back half of the vertical supports so that the shelf can slide freely

up and down the vertical supports. See the close-up drawing in Fig. 5 or look closely at the joints in the

easel pictures.

NOTE: This is the piece you want to modify if you want this easel to hold taller paintings. Essentially all

you need to hold a taller painting will be a taller center support. Simply change the 7'6" support to

whatever height you want. However, if you think you will go *much* higher, say 10'+, you might want to

consider increasing the length of the whole piece by extending the two outside vertical supports as well.

fig. 1: side angle

fig. 2: front angle

The base is very simple to build.

Its side pieces are 3' each and

attached in a tall orientation. Its

front and back are 3' 3 1/8" each

in a laid-down orientation. The

extra length on the front and back

is so that the distance between

the two side pieces is large

enough to accomodate the 3'-wide

frame in addition to a bit of

wiggle room for a couple washers.

Notches are cut into each side

piece to accomodate the flat

front/back pieces (see side view).

One hole is drilled on each side

piece, 8 inches back from the

front of the base. This hole will

accept a 1/2" x 4" hex bolt w/

washers to bolt the main support

to the base. By using a bolt here,

the main support's angle is

adjustable (and secured with the

back-side slot setup--more later).

fig. 3: front/top/side angle (measurements)

Not much more to it than that for the base. The locking casters will attach to the bottom of this piece, but I

put those on last. Not sure if that made the most sense, but I didn't want the thing rolling around while I was

trying to put it together. For the casters, I used 2 1/2" tall locking casters and some wood screws to screw

them directly into the base on each corner. You need to make sure they are close enough to the corners so

that you can get at the locks with your feet. In hindsight, larger casters might have been a better choice.

The rear supports allow you to tilt the angle of the main support to a comfortable position. By loosening

the two wing nuts, you can adjust the angle from 90 degrees (straight up) to 45 degrees back, to even a

little forward (i.e. 90+)--good for pastels..

The rear supports look more complicated in the

diagrams than they really are. Each support basically

consists of two 2x4's, one slotted and one with a bolt

that slides in the slot. By tightening the wing nut on

the bolt, you can set the adjustment where you want.

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