Basic Board Fence.pdf

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BASIC BOARD FENCE
Roseand Copyright ©2004
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Instructions
1) Prepare and Set the Posts
Coat the ends of each post with a waterproof deck sealer (Fig. 1).
Dig holes for and install the corner posts first, setting them below the frost line
and on a 6-inch tamped bed of crushed rock or gravel so their end grain does
not sit in water.
Fig. 1
Next, stretch a taut mason's line between the corner posts to help locate the intermediate holes and posts; try to space them
evenly about 6 feet apart.
Gradually backfill each hole with soil and tamp every four inches. Then fill the area around the posts with a well-tamped mix
of earth and gravel or with concrete for extra strength at corners and gate openings. Check for plumb.
2) Mark the Lower Fence Rail Position on the Posts
Establish a level for the lower rail at least a few inches above the ground and, on
each post, mark placement for the top and bottom edges of the lower rail. (Fig.
2)
Fig. 2
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3) Cut the Posts to Accept the Lower Rail
Between the marks, make several kerf cuts 1-1/2 inches deep with a circular
saw. Chisel out each post to accept the rail. (Fig. 3)
Fig. 3
4) Join the Lower Rails at Corners
At the corners, inset intersecting rails and screw them in place (after predrilling to
avoid splits) with galvanized deck screws. (Fig. 4)
Fig. 4
5) Affix an End Post to the House, If Necessary
If your fence will meet the house, fasten an end post to your home's siding. Make sure the
post is plumb; you may need to insert spacers or shims if the siding is irregular or slanted.
(Fig. 5)
Fig. 5
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6) Adjoin the Upper Rails
Center the joint between upper rails in the post notches, then predrill the rails
before screwing them to the posts. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 6
7) Install the Pickets
Cut a 1/2-inch spacer to simplify installation of the pickets. Periodically check for
plumb as you work along the rails. (Fig. 7)
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
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