6019 Skirt Dress instructions.pdf

PATTERN

A B C 1 Front piece 1x

A B C 2 Back piece 1x

A B C 3 Strips / neckline 1x

A B C 4 Strips / armhole 2x

B 5 Front collar 1x

B 6 Back collar 1x

C 7 Front and back skirt panel 2x

C 8 Front and back facing 2x

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far

as necessary. Blend the side edges.

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern

pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting

diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The

cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern

pieces should be placed on the fabric.

Fabrics: A, B, C I:

Stretch jersey

C II: Taffeta, Satin

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:

The patterns are printed out on 20 sheets with a thin frame.

Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so

that they fit together (see additional page with the overview

of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and right

edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower

sheet and then tape the frame lines together precisely. Select

your size according to the Burda-dimension table: dresses,

blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers

and skirts according to the hip width. If necessary, change the

pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate from the

Burda-size chart.

A B C - The cutting diagrams show the placement of the

pattern on the fabric

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to

the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are

facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side.

The pattern pieces that are shown extending over the fold of

the fabric in the cutting diagram should be cut last from a

single layer of fabric. Advice: Fold both selvages to the

center line of the fabric to create two fold lines. Pin the front

and back piece on each side and cut.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

for the SHIRT A pieces 1 to 4,

for the SHIRT B pieces 1 to 6,

for the DRESS C pieces 1 to 4, 7 and 8.

C – Fabric I, fabric II:

Cut pieces 1 to 4 from fabric I, pieces 7 and 8 from fabric II;

see cutting diagrams.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on

an average:

1 ½” (4 cm) for the hemline, 5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and

stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the lines and

signs of the pattern onto the left fabric side. Instructions can

be found in the packaging.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If

you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces

along the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". In this

way the proper fit is maintained. Always adjust all pattern

pieces along the same line to the same degree.

Sewing

While sewing, the right fabric sides are facing.

Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right

fabric side using basting stitches

Instructions for the use of stretchable fabrics

Using an overlock machine will produce the best

results with stretchable fabric. Overlocked seams

stretch, so that they don’t rip when wearing. If you

are not able to use an overlock machine, stitch the

seams with a special elastic thread or a narrow

zigzag stitch. The thread tension should not be too

tight. Working with knits requires a ballpoint

needle for the sewing machine. Its tip won’t

damage the fabric.

1 When stitching the edges (e.g. along the

hemline), use a twin needle for the sewing

machine. Stitch on the fabric’s right side with two

upper threads and one bobbin thread using a

straight stitch adjustment. The bobbin thread

comes out as zigzag stitch. In this way, the fabric

won’t stretch when stitching and the seam

becomes elastic.

SHIRT

Shoulder seams

2 Position the front piece on the back piece, right

sides facing. Pin the shoulder seams and stitch

(seam 1). Neaten allowances and press apart.

Neckline

3 Fold the long fabric strip (piece 3) lengthwise

and press, wrong sides facing. While pressing,

adjust the doubled strip to the round neckline

form, so that the fold line becomes the longer

outer edge.

4 Pin the strip on the neckline, right sides facing.

The open edges fit to the allowance of the

neckline edge. Pin the strip on the shoulder seam,

further along the neckline. Make sure the neckline

is not getting stretched. Fold the strip ends.

Topstitch the strip ¾” (1.5 cm) wide. Trim

allowances and snip.

5 Fold the strips to the inside and press. Topstitch

the neckline on the right side ¼” (0.7 cm) wide

using a twin needle, catching the strip.

Armholes

Fold the strips lengthwise and press. Lightly press

the armhole as preparation for the strip

application.

6 Pin the strips to the armholes and topstitch ¾”

(1.5 cm) wide, the strip ends meeting the side

opening. Trim the allowances narrowly, snipping

in along the rounding. Press the strips inside the

armhole (6a).

Side seams

7 Position the front piece on the back piece, right

sides facing. Pin the side seams (seam 2), so that

the strips at the armhole meet. Stitch. Neaten

allowances and press apart. Fold the strips along

the armholes inside, press (7a). Topstitch the

armholes ¼” (0.7 cm) wide, using a twin needle,

according to text and drawing 5.

Hemline

8 Fold the hemline allowance to the inside and

press. Stitch the hemline on the right side ½” (1.2

cm) wide, thereby enclosing the allowance.

SHIRT WITH COLLAR

Stitch shoulder seams according to text and

drawing 2.

Collar

9 Position the back collar on the front collar, right

sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams (seam 3).

Neaten the allowances and press apart.

10 Press the allowances of the outer (round) collar

edge towards the wrong fabric side. Topstitch the

edge from the outside ½” (1 cm) wide using a

twin needle, thereby enclosing the allowance.

11 Pin the collar on the neckline, right sides

facing (seam 4). The seams meet the shoulder

seams. Press the strip for the neckline according to

the text and drawing 3, and stitch the neckline.

The collar is sandwiched between neckline and

strip according to text and drawing 4 (11a).

12 Fold the strip inside and pin, turn the collar up

and place it in between the neckline. Topstitch the

neckline from the outside ¼” (0.7 cm) close to the

seam, using a twin needle, thereby topstitching the

strip. Fold the collar to the outside along the fold

line, hand sew it with a few stitches to the

shoulder seams. Stitch the armholes like shirt A,

see text and drawing 6.

Stitch side seams and hemline according to the

text and drawing 7 and 8.

DRESS

Stitch the top piece like shirt A, see text and

drawing nos. 2 to 7.

Skirt

13 Position the skirt panels together, right sides

facing. Pin the side seams and stitch. Neaten

allowances and press apart. Position the facings

together, right sides facing. Pin the side seams and

stitch. Press the allowances apart.

Bottom skirt edge

14 Pin the facing on the bottom skirt edge, right

sides facing. The side seams meet. Topstitch the

facing. Neaten allowances. Fold the facing inside.

Baste the edge and press. Neaten the top edge of

the facing, pin and stitch (14a).

Top skirt edge

15 Stitch two rows of basting stitches at the top

skirt edge. Leave the thread ends long. Hold the

bobbin thread and gather the fabric. The eased

width of the top skirt has to be distributed

according to the following measurements:

Size 2 (EU 34): 34” (86 cm);

size 4 (EU 36): 36” (90 cm);

size 6 EU 38): 38” (94 cm);

size 8 (EU 40): 39” (98 cm);

size 10 (EU 42): 41” (102 cm);

size 12 (EU 44): 42” (106 cm).

Knot thread ends. Distribute the width equally.

Apply skirt

16 Pin the skirt on the lower edge of the top piece,

right sides facing. The side seams meet. The top

piece needs to be stretched to the width of the

skirt panel. Stitch the skirt. Neaten allowances

together and press. TIP: To make the seam pucker

again after having it stretched out for stitching,

stitch a additional elastic thread on the allowance.

17 Position the elastic thread on the allowance of

the skirt seam and fix it using zigzag stitch. Make

sure that you do not stitch into the elastic thread.

Tighten the elastic thread to the width of your

waist. Knot thread ends.

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