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Basics Fashion Design: Construction

BASICS

FASHION DESIGN

Anette Fischer

03

CONSTRUCTION

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An AVA Book

Published by AVA Publishing SA

Rue des Fontenailles 16

Case Postale

1000 Lausanne 6

Switzerland

Tel: +41 786 005 109

Email: enquiries@avabooks.ch

Distributed by Thames & Hudson (ex-North America)

181a High Holborn

London WC1V 7QX

United Kingdom

Tel: +44 20 7845 5000

Fax: +44 20 7845 5055

Email: sales@thameshudson.co.uk

www.thamesandhudson.com

Distributed in the USA & Canada by:

Ingram Publisher Services Inc.

1 Ingram Blvd.

La Vergne, TN 37086

USA

Tel: +1 866 400 5351

Fax: +1 800 838 1149

Email: customer.service@ingrampublisherservices.com

English Language Support Office

AVA Publishing (UK) Ltd.

Tel: +44 1903 204 455

Email: enquiries@avabooks.ch

Copyright © AVA Publishing SA 2009

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,

electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without

permission of the copyright holder.

ISBN 978-2-940373-75-8

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

Design by Sifer Design

Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore

Tel: +65 6334 8173

Fax: +65 6259 9830

Email: production@avabooks.com.sg

All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the

copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any

credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to

incorporate amendments in future editions.

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2 / 3

1

Alexander McQueen, S/S09.

Catwalking.com.

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Contents

Introduction

6

How to get the most out of this book

8

Getting started

10

Pattern cutting tools and equipment

12

Silhouettes

14

Sizing and grading

16

Blocks and patterns

20

Pattern cutting

24

How to read a design drawing

26

Dart manipulation

30

Slash and spread

32

Sleeves

34

Collars

44

Pockets

54

Bias cut

56

Fitting the toile

58

Laying a pattern on to fabric

64

Garment construction

70

Tools for the technique

72

Seams

78

Seam finishes

82

Hand sewing techniques

84

Surface-specific techniques

90

Felted fabrics

92

Lace

94

Leather

96

Fur

98

Knits and stretch-woven fabrics

100

Sequinned and beaded fabrics

102

Velvet

104

Transparent fabrics

106

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4 / 5

Haute couture and tailoring

108

Haute couture

110

Designing haute couture

112

Tailoring

114

Tailoring techniques

116

Draping on the mannequin

120

Modelling tools and

equipment

122

Grain line and draping

124

Draping style

126

Geometric shapes

130

Inspired designers

132

Support and structure

136

History of supported

and structured garments

138

Supporting materials

140

Interlining/fusing

148

Corsetry

152

Creating volume

156

Finishes

164

Linings

166

Facings

168

Fastenings

169

Haberdashery

172

Conclusion 176

Glossary 178

Bibliography 182

Useful resources 184

Canon 190

Acknowledgements and picture credits 192

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