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OTMS
10. Corsage
73
10.1
I ntroduction of x values
The corsage, based on the OPTIMASS basic bodice block is a tight fitting garment. It is to be adjusted to the shape of the
body and to be developed as fitted as possible.
The corsage which is mostly developed as a strapless garment does not only have a clothing function but also a supporting
function. Therefore, ease is to be applied with caution. It is also important for the top edge not to be situated too low under
the arm.
Images 1 to 10 show the complete draft of the corsage. In addition, image 11 displays the reduction at CF and the resulting
relocation of the waist points at the side seams. Spreading the darts results in relocation of the hip points at the side seams
(image 12).
Although the draft of the corsage is based on the basic bodice block, drafting the front and back neck and the armholes is
omitted.
The following body measurements are required: u Ge, u Ta, l Ta, b Rü, l Ge, u Ha, HBT, w BA, u Ub, HB, l Cu, b Vo, b Ar
and l Ac,
x value
Description
Standard Value
x1
x2
x3
x4
x5
x6
x7
x8
x9
x10
x11
x12
x13
x14
x15
x16
x17
x18
x19
x20
x21
x22
x23
x24
x25
x26
x27
x28
x29
x30
½ addition to across bust
addition to scye box
½ addition to across back
½ addition to waist
½ addition to hip
½ addition to under bust
height relocate scye box
height relocate waist
relocate bust point towards side seam
change bust suppression in %
content dart CF
distance dart vertex to bust point
content 2 dart
drop 2 dart
length waist dart front
content waist dart back
length waist dart back
length hip dart back
position waist dart back on waist line in %
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
15
180
15
25
10
2
140
33
250
160
50
0
0
5
3
80
110
60
90
20
0
-75
nd
nd
spread dart front at hip line
spread dart back at hip line
reduce CF at waist
reduce CF at top edge
height neckline CF from bust
height neckline above bust point
height neckline back from scye line L AV
shape neckline back
reduce CB at waist
tuck amount for hollow back
angle hip curve to waist line
PIAS
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74
10. Corsage
10.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
OTMS
½ addition to across bust
(x1)
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The addition relates to half
across bust. Positive values increase the across bust measurement and vice versa.
addition to scye box
(x2 )
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. A positive x value increases
the armhole and vice versa.
½ addition to across back
(x3)
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The ease relates to ½ across
back measurement. As a rule, the x value is positive and increases the width across
back. With a negative value across back width can be reduced.
½ addition to waist
(x4)
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The value is added into half
of the waist as ease but does not alter the waist darts. The programme ensures that
the waist measurement required by the user is reached.
½ addition to hip
(x5)
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The value is added as ease
to half of the hip measurement.
½ addition to under bust
(x6)
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The value is added as ease
into half of the under bust measurement. The programme ensures that the under
bust measurement required is achieved.
height relocate scye box
(x7)
The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. A negative x value increases
the measurement h Ac so that the armhole is increased. A positive value reduces
the measurement h Ac and therefore, the armhole.
height relocate waist
(x8)
The default setting is 0 so that the body measurement for nape to waist centre
back is reached. A negative x value lengthens the nape to waist measurement, a
positive value shortens the length.
relocate bust point towards
side seam
(x9)
With a setting of 0 the bust point would be positioned exactly in the centre of
the front width, i.e. in the original position. Here, the bust point is relocated
15 mm from its original position towards the side seam. A positive value moves
the bust point towards the side seam, a negative value moves it towards the CF.
change bust suppression in %
(x10)
With the default setting 180 % of the whole bust suppression angle from the
measurement chart is applied, i.e. BA for size 38 = 25.2º
so that the garment is as close fitting as possible. The smaller the x value the
more the garment stands away from the body.
content dart CF
(x11)
The default setting is 15 mm. A negative value reduces the dart.
distance dart vertex to bust point (x12)
The default setting is 25 mm, i.e. the dart vertex of the dart in the CF is located
25 mm from the original bust position. A positive value moves the dart vertex
from the bust point towards the CF, a negative value moves it towards the side
seam.
content 2 dart
nd
(x13)
The default setting is 10 mm.
drop 2 dart
(x14)
The default setting is 2 mm.
length waist dart front
(x15)
The length of the waist dart is pre-set to 120 mm for all sizes. It can be altered
with x15 as required.
PIAS
nd
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PIAS
10. Corsage
10.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
75
content waist dart back
(x16) The content of the dart is pre-set to 33 mm and corresponds with the normal
figure. Depending on the figure this dart can be increased or reduced. For hollow
backs increase the dart and vice versa. (The content of the front waist dart and the
fitting of the side seam at waist cannot be influenced. It ensues according to the
balancing principle; the required waist width remains intact.)
length waist dart back
(x17)
T he dart length is pre-set to 250 mm upwards from the waist for all sizes. With
x17 this length can be controlled.
length hip dart back
(x18)
The length of the dart is pre-set to 160 mm and relates to the normal figure.
position waist dart back on waist
line in %
(x19)
With the default setting of 50% the dart is positioned exactly in the middle
between CB and side seam. It can be controlled as required.
spread dart front at hip line
(x20)
The default setting is 0. When assigning x20, half of the spreading amount is
marked to the right and half to the left of the lower front dart point on the hip
line. The hip width is reduced, which is balanced by adding to the hip curves.
The required hip width results. The smaller the value the more pronounced the
shape of the princess line between waist and hip line.
spread dart back at hip line
(x21)
The default setting is 0. When assigning x21, half of the spreading amount is
marked to the right and half to the left of the lower back dart point on the hip
line.
shape CF at waist
(x22)
The default setting 5 mm. To balance the required waist width half of the
reduction amount is added each side seam at waist.
reduce CF at top edge
(x23)
The reduction of the CF at the top edge is pre-set to 3 mm.
height neckline CF from bust
(x24)
The height of the neckline at the CF is pre-set to 80 mm from the bust line. It
can be altered as required.
height neckline above bust point (x25 )
The default setting is 110 mm. It can be altered as required.
height neckline back from scye
line L AV
(x26)
The default setting is 60 mm. It can be controlled via x26 as required.
shape neckline back
(x27)
With the default setting of 90 the back neck is at a right angle to the CB.
reduce CB at waist
(x28)
The default setting is 20 mm at the CB and relates to the normal figure. For a
hollow back the amount can be slightly increased, for a flat back the value can be
reduced. The value should be between 0 and 50 mm.
tuck amount for hollow back
(x29)
The default setting is 0. For hollow backs this value can be increased to prevent
crimps running across the back.
angle hip curve to waist
(x30)
The default setting of -75 results in an ideal hip curve. It can be altered as required.
OTMS
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76
10. Basic Bodice Block
10.3 Drafting Instructions
OTMS
Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation
Image
from to distance
Abtragung der Längenmaße
0
1
l Ta
down
P Ht h to L Ta =
g5
0
nape to waist line
6
0
2
h TV down
P Ht h to L TV =
g5-x8
nape to relocated waist
5
0
3
l Ac
down
P Ht h to L Ac =
g40
4
nape to scye line
0
4
h AV down
P Ht h to L AV =
g40-x7
nape to relocated scye line
0
5
h Rü down
h Rü = 3/4 g40;
level of most prominent back width
1
0
6
1/3
down
1/3 h Rü
hRü
determines position for
auxiliary point for back shaping
1
7
l Ge
down
L Ta to L Ge =
g10
waist L Ta to hip L Ge = g10
7
Double reduction at CB seam = shaped centre back
2
9
x28
left
bRAo=x10
total reduction CB at waist h TV
0
=
bRAo
8
6
2
P
½
bRAo
left
half of whole reduction
0
P
aux. line
connect and lengthen from 1 waist
reduction point to hip line
st
10
5
6
8
aux. line left
produces intersection point 8 on auxiliary
line
3
4
8
9
upper
connect; produces reduced angled centre
CB
back
5
10
aux. line left
produces intersection point 10 at CB
7
11a
left
produces intersection point 11a on hip
level by lengthening line P0 HP
9
HP
1
2
11a
11
1/2
left
1/2 b RA o = 1/2 x28
bRAo
9
11
lower
connect, creates lower CB from waist line to
hip line. This line runs parallel to the line
HP 11a
CB
11
7
11a
PIAS
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OTMS
PIAS
10. Corsage
10.3 Drafting Instructions
77
Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation
Image
from to
distance
Determination of bust line
0
14
h Br down
h Br = g5 - (g18 - g30)
=lTa-(HBT-HB)
nape to waist CB-(nape to waist over bust
- nape to bust)
Determination of bust line
0
8
Drafting width measurements
15
L Br left
10
16
1/2
left
½ back width b Rü=½g7+x3+7mm
i.e. half across back (g7) plus ease x3 plus
constant 7mm
HP5
16
10
bRü
HP6
HP7
HP3
16
HP 3
down
distance
hRü;hAc
HP4
17
20
15
14
16
HP 4
down
distance
hRü;hAV
16
HP 5 b Al left
scye box b Al = g34 + x2
i.e. the measured scye width (g34) plus ease
x2
18
9
HP 3 HP 6
b Al left
auxiliary line for scye box
HP 4 HP 7 b Al left
auxiliary line for scye box
19
11
15
20
L Br left
auxiliary line for bust level to scye box
(HP5;P20)
20
17
1/2
left
front width b Vo = ½ g33 +x1 i.e. half
across bust measurement (g33) plus ease x1
produces intersection point 18 at CF
bVo
9
18
LTV left
11
19
L Ge left
produces intersection point 19 at CF
0
Determine variable bust point, i.e. move towards CF or scye box
8
17
21
b Bs right
relocate bust point towards side seam,
controllable via x9b Bs=½(1/2bVo+x9)
(b Bs = width bust point from CF)
HP5
16
10
HP6
HP3
HP7
At
HP4
21
Front side seam position
17
20
15
14
HP 7 P At 1/2
right
creates side seam point for armhole (P At)
b Al = width armhole
bAl
-10 mm
18
30
9
PAt 31
down
front side seam axis parallel to CF; creates
intersection point 31 through
perpendicular onto hip line
P At 30
down
creates intersection point 30 on waist line
19
31
11
14
½
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