A242_v03.pdf

4. One-piece Sleeve

4.1 Introduction of z values

OTMS

PIAS

Only after having created an absolutely perfect fit for the bodice block can the sleeve be developed.

First the armhole then the sleeve!

Open a new part in part organisation and insert the lines required for the sleeve. The lines necessary for

an exact sleeve construction are visible in the bodice block. The armhole lines and auxiliary lines must

be entered into the z value menu.

z value Description

lower front armhole curve

Image

upper front armhole curve

upper back armhole curve

lower back armhole curve

distance from scye line to sleeve pitch (line)

height armhole front

height armhole back

width armhole front

width armhole back

Only after having determined the z values the sleeve is called. The draft of the sleeve head and the

complete sleeve appear. The sleeve head draft is required for curve alteration as will become clear

from the following drafting instructions.The sleeve head is divided into 10 segments which match

the armhole. The lower front and back armhole curves are halved. The upper front and

back armhole curves are divided by three. Thus, a total of 10 segments can be found analogous

to the sleeve head (see sketch). Each segment of the sleeve head has an x value

for ease control. A line is drawn at the front sleeve pitch to the left. When

measuring this line

the length of the line shows the user the ease in %. The line drawn to the

right gives the total amount of ease of the sleeve in relation to the

armhole in mm. The lines drawn downwards at the segments show the

ease for the individual segment. From the application of the x values it

is obvious how the sleeve can be manipulated.

4.2

Introduction of x values

x10

x11

x12

x13

x14

x15

upper sleeve head height in %

ease in segment A in %

ease in segment B in %

ease in segment C in %

ease in segment D in %

ease in segment E in %

ease in segment F in %

ease in segment G in %

ease in segment H in %

ease in segment I in %

ease in segment J in %

surplus sleeve length

shoulder pad height

relocate hem

position sleeve head point in %

Standard Value

100

x value

Description

OTMS

4. One-piece Sleeve

4.2 Introduction of x values

x16

x17

x18

x19

x20

x21

x22

x23

x24

x25

x26

x27

x28

x29

x30

x31

descent at back sleeve head in %

auxiliary point I for auxiliary lines for curve in %

auxiliary point II in %

auxiliary point III in %

auxiliary point IV in %

auxiliary point V in %

auxiliary point VI in %

auxiliary point VII in %

auxiliary point VIII in %

additional ease for upper arm in mm

shape underarm sleeve head curve in mm

relocate sleeve pitch

wrist in mm

shape underarm seams

shape ft sleeve head curve in %

shape ft sleeve head curve in mm

200

4.3 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

upper sleeve head height

(x 1)

The default setting is 100% sleeve head height = ½ (ft armhole height +

bk armhole height) - 25 mm,

i.e. changing the percentage of sleeve head height stretches or compresses the

sleeve head from the front sleeve pitch to the sleeve head point, only. The lower

sleeve head is not altered.

ease of the individual

segments

(x 2)

(x 11)

The ease is controlled via these 10 x values. The resulting ease is valued as a total

of 100%. These 100% are distributed between 10 segments so that the addition

of x2 to x11 always has to amount to 100%.The pre-set values are empirical values

leading to a good fit. The user can determine how to apply the ease.

surplus sleeve length

(x 12)

The default setting is 0, so that the distance of the sleeve head from the sleeve

pitch to the sleeve seam is adjusted perfectly to the armhole. With a negative

value the lower sleeve head height is increased or with a positive value reduced.

Thus, the upper sleeve head height is controlled via x1 the lower sleeve head

via x12

shoulder pad height

(x 13)

lder pad. This value is to be determined in conjunction

with the bodice. The shoulder pad height is absorbed totally in the sleeve length.

relocate hem

(x 14)

The default setting 0 reflects the wrist height on the body. With a positive value the

sleeve is shortened up to the elbow line, only. With a negative value the sleeve can be

lengthened.

position sleeve head point

(x 15)

The default setting is 57%. Increasing the value moves the sleeve head point to the

back, reduction moves it forward.

PIAS

x value

Description

Standard Value

The default setting is 0, no sho

4. One-piece Sleeve

4.3 One-piece Sleeve

OTMS

sleeve head descent

(x 16)

The default setting of 30% represents the normal descent. The sleeve head descent

is determined from the sleeve head point into the back sleeve head (at the back

sleeve head construction rectangle) and is stated in % of the total sleeve head

height. Increasing the value makes the sleeve head narrower as the descent is

steeper and vice versa.

auxiliary points

(x 17)

(x 24)

These x values determine the auxiliary points for the auxiliary lines onto which

the sleeve head curve is bound.

additional ease upper arm

(x 25)

The default setting is 0, so that the upper arm width results from the z values

entered. The resulting upper arm width must be measured to check that the width

is acceptable.As a rule, the resulting upper arm width is larger than the body

measurement. The ease in the upper arm should correspond with the ease in the

bust: ease upper arm girth ½ to ease bust girth. With a positive value the upper

arm width is increased and vice versa. In each case a change of value results in a

change of ease in the sleeve head.

shape underarm sleeve head curve

(x 26)

The default setting is 20 and determines the shape of the sleeve head curve to the

seam point in the lower back sleeve head area. Increasing the value makes the curve

more hollow and thus, makes the sleeve narrower in the lower sleeve head area.

Reducing the value results in a shallower curve and a wider sleeve.

relocate sleeve pitch

(x 27)

During sleeve construction the sleeve pitch is determined at the sleeve head rectangle

in accordance with the distance to the upper arm girth line at the armhole. A positive

value moves the sleeve pitch in the positive y direction (upwards) and vice versa.

wrist

(x 28)

With this x value the wrist width can be controlled. The default setting is 200.

shape seams

(x 29)

The default setting is 10. The shape can be altered as required.

shape front sleeve head curve

in %

(x 30)

The shape of the lower sleeve head curve to the seam is determined via the position

of this point which is pre-set to 60%. Increasing the value moves the point closer to

the seam, the curve becomes more shallow and the sleeve becomes narrower in the

lower sleeve head area.

shape front sleeve head curve

in mm

(x 31)

The default setting is 10 mm. Increasing the value makes the sleeve head more hollow

and vice versa.

PIAS

OTMS

PIAS

One-piece Sleeve

4.4 Drafting Instructions

Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation

Image

from to distance

hKu

total

h Ku (slh height)=½(hahft+hahbk)-

12 mm * 1/100 x1+hslp-x12+x27-

5 mm or= ½ (z6 + z7)-12 mm * 1/100 x1

+ z5 - x12+ x27-5mm

right

b l (sleeve width) = ½ (g14 + z upper arm

+ x25)

b l (sleeve width) = ½

(g14 + z upper arm + x25)

right

head

point

aux.

point

right

1/100bl*x15

left

1/100bl+x15

left

move the constant P5 by 15 mm

hKuab

down

h Ku * 1/100 x16

P7= 1 point for underarm seam position

0;5

3;5'

left

right

P8= 2 point for underarm seam position

h e (h sleeve pitch)=he-x12 + x27 - 5mm

or=z5-x12+x27-5mm

Auxiliary points a to h for the sleeve head on the ft h Ku line,bloline and

h Ku ab line

aux.

point a

distance P9 P1 * 1/100 x17

aux.

point b

distance P9 P1 * 1/100 x18

aux.

point c

left

distance P4 P1 * 1/100 x19

aux.

point d

left

distance P4 P1 * 1/100 x20

aux.

point e

left

distance P4 P1 * 1/100 x21

aux.

point f

right

distance P4 P2 * 1/100 x22

aux.

point g

right

distance P4 P2 * 1/100 x23

aux.

point h

distance P6 P2 * 1/100 x24

x26

left

determine angle and lower sleeve head

curve of the back sleeve

One-piece Sleeve

4.4 Drafting Instructions

OTMS

Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation

Image

from

distance

Auxiliary lines for curve shape

aux.

line

aux

line

aux.

line

aux.

line

aux.

line

aux.

line

generates intersection point S1

generates intersection point S2

generates intersection point S3

1/3 distance P6 P10

2/3 distance P6 P10

9; S1