Naples, Sorrento & the Amafi Coast Adventure Guide.pdf

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Naples and its environs offer a world of contrasts. This guide shows
you how to discover them all:
Plush resorts on the coast and islands, Greek and Roman excava-
tions, plus street theater and musical performances everywhere.
The dramatic Sorrento and Amalfi coasts.
Capri , where Roman emperors Nero and Hadrian had their get-
away villas. You can still visit them today.
Positano , the most photographed fishing village in the world,
clinging to a rock above the sea.
The excavated Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum , the
ancient villas at Stabia and Oplontis and superlative Greek tem-
ples at Paestum .
The volcanic hissing beaches and bubbling spas on Ischia ,
sulphur-laden fumaroles at Pozzuoli , and the sublime Mt. Vesu-
vius , with its verdant slopes, craggy craters and majestic tides of
lava.
The superb gastronomic specialties of Campania are everywhere:
mouth-watering pizza (invented here), handmade pasta and so-
phisticated seafood .
The author shows you how to experience Naples & the Bay intensely
and unforgettably, while providing details about the foods, the sights,
the many unforgettable walks and hikes, the best places to stay
(whether you want a charming B&B, a 16th-century palazzo or a luxu-
rious spa) and restaurants – all with the insight of an insider.
dventure Guide
SIGHTSEEING
PLACES TO STAY & EAT
DIVING & FISHING
HIKING & BOATING
HISTORIC SITES
Life is an adventure – let Hunter be your guide!
Sightseeing
Art & Architecture
Detailed Maps
Food & Wine
Walking & Biking
Where to Stay
Naples
History & Culture
Restaurants
Shopping
Sorrento
Hunter Publishing, Inc.
ISBN 1-58843-578-4
& the
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dventure Guide
Sorrento
Amalfi Coast
& the
Marina Carter
HUNTER
Naples
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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,
130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818
732-225-1900; 800-255-0343; fax 732-417-1744
www.hunterpublishing.com
Ulysses Travel Publications
4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec
Canada H2W 2M5
514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448
Windsor Books
The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington
Oxford, OX44 9EJ England
01865-361122; fax 01865-361133
ISBN 1-58843-578-4
© 2006 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
Manufactured in the United States of America
This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books
through Amazon.com, NetLibrary.com and other digital partners.
For more information, e-mail us at
comments@hunterpublishing.com.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other-
wise, without the written permission of the publisher.
This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities
contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals
and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or ill-
ness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information
in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of infor-
mation in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and
hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors,
omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems
caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from
negligence, accident or any other cause.
Cover photo: Villa Rufolo, Ravello, © Art Kowalsky/Alamy
Interior color photographs © Marina Carter
Maps by Toni Carbone, © 2006 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
Index by Nancy Wolff
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Contents
The People & their Culture
1
Modern Customs & Ancient Practices
3
The Presepe
3
The Street Performer
4
The Sport of Gambling
5
The Seasonal Calendar of Festivals
5
February-March
5
May-June
6
July
6
August
7
September
8
October
8
November
8
December
8
Art & Architecture
9
Greek & Roman Structures
9
Byzantine & Medieval Architecture
10
Renaissance & Baroque Buildings
11
Destruction & Regeneration
12
Artists & Artistic Treasures
13
Music & Musicians
15
Literary Figures
16
Language & Gesture
17
Common Neapolitan Phrases
18
Neapolitan Proverbs
18
A Southern Subculture: the Camorra
19
History
22
The Greeks
23
Roman Campania
23
AD 79 & its Aftermath
24
Byzantines & Normans
26
The Houses of Anjou & Aragon
28
The Spanish Viceroyalty
30
The Bourbons
31
Unification & After
35
World War II & Postwar “Reconstruction”
36
Modern Times
37
The Land
38
A Violent Geology
38
Flora & Fauna
46
Introduction
2
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viii
Contents
Travel Information
49
Getting to Naples
49
Moving Around Naples
52
Farther Afield
55
Travel Contacts
62
Airlines
62
Car & Scooter Rental
63
Taxi Services
63
Rail Services
63
Ferry & Hydrofoil Services
64
Car Parking Services
64
Tour Guide Services
64
Transport Websites
64
Tourist Information Websites
65
Finding a Place to Stay
66
Options, Rates & Bookings
66
Hotels & Pensioni
67
Houses, Apartments & Campsites
67
Agriturismo: Rural Retreats
68
Useful Websites
68
What & Where to Eat
69
Regional Specialties
69
A Day in the Life of Food
71
Early Morning Treats
71
Aperitifs & Starters
71
The Primo Piatto
72
The Secondo Piatto
73
Cheeses
73
Delightful Desserts
73
Seasonal Specialties
74
Carnival & Shrove Tuesday
74
San Giuseppe
74
Easter
74
All Saints’ Day
75
Christmas
75
Capodanno
75
Wines of Campania
75
Where To Eat
76
Restaurants & Trattorie
77
Naples
77
Bacoli
77
Ravello
77
Amalfi
77
Positano
77
Transport
49
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