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Notebook 7
It’s all in the details
When you think about a beautiful jewelry design, the jump rings or head pins are
generally not the stars of the show, but taking the time to choose the best indings for
a project can really elevate your designs. And if you are selling your jewelry, these are
just the kinds of details a sophisticated customer will notice.
split
standard
soldered
fancy
Jump rings
come in squares, triangles, hearts, and other
shapes. Oval jump rings are particularly
useful because dangles hang safely below
the jump ring’s cut should it accidentally pull
open.
Jump rings are wire circles used to connect
jewelry components, including charms,
chains, clasps, dangles, or other jump rings.
Chain maille jewelry can be made entirely
out of jump rings.
Never open a jump ring by pulling the ends
away from each other – you’ll never get them
back in the correct alignment. Instead use
two pairs of pliers to grip the jump ring on
each side of the opening and move one
plier toward you and the other away from
you (forward/backward). Use the same
movements to close the jump ring.
A standard jump ring is cut along its
circumference, which allows you to open
and close it. Soldered jump rings are
permanently closed so they work well as
half of a clasp.
Jump rings come in many sizes — some of
them as small as 2 mm — in different
gauges and inishes and in a rainbow of
colors.
If you get bored with circles, jump rings
Another option to consider, especially if you
use a lot of jump rings is a jump ring tool. This
is basically a ring that its on your inger and
has one or more slots in it. You insert the
jump ring into the appropriate sized slot and
bend the jump ring to open or close it.
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A split ring has some of the properties of both
the standard and soldered jump ring. It is
neither soldered closed nor left open. The ring
coils around twice, like the ring on a key
chain. Once components are added by
sliding them around the coils, they are very
secure.
Split rings are not as elegant looking as a
standard one-coil ring, but are very secure
and reasonably easy to use. Special split-ring
pliers are available for easier opening of the
coils.
Trim the points with the lush side of your
cutters, and ile the ends if necessary. The
ends of the jump ring should meet squarely
when the jump ring is closed.
There is also a handy gadget made just for
creating jump rings. It comes with several
mandrels in different sizes. The mandrels come
in standard jump ring sizes and in round or
oval shapes. It works on the same principle as
the homemade jump ring maker, but is easier
to rotate for perfect circles.
Another jump ring hybrid is the snapping jump
ring usually found under the brand name
Snapeez®. They open like a regular jump ring,
but close more securely (indicated by a tiny
snapping noise when the two sides brush
against each other as the ring is closed).
Head pins
A head pin is a wire with a little nub (head) at
one end. It looks like a long, skinny nail. You’ll
need head pins to string beads for dangles.
Head pins come in different gauges and
lengths, but 2-in. (5 cm) 22- or 24-gauge head
pins work for most projects. If you’re new to
making loops, you might want to use 3-in. (7.6
cm) pins to give you a little extra wire to hold
onto. You can always trim the excess wire.
While the closure is the next best thing to
soldered,it is not quite soldered, snapping
jump rings are not intended to be used with
beading wire (a soldered ring is best) but
rather for connecting charms or indings.
An eye pin has a loop (instead of a lat head)
at the end. You can make your own with wire,
but if you need to make lots of dangles, eye
pins will save you time.
You can make your own jump rings by
wrapping a piece of 18–20-gauge wire tightly
around a pen, knitting needle, dowel, or other
cylindrical object to form a coil. Remove the
coil and with wire cutters at a right angle to
the coil, trim the straight wire tails from each
end of the coil. Slightly separate the irst ring
from the coil. With your cutters at a right
angle, cut where the wire completes the irst
ring. Continue cutting rings off the coil.
Head pins come in a number of fancy
varieties too, with balls, paddles, crystals,
beads and other embellishments replacing
the nub or loop.
You can make your own fancy head pin by
cutting a small piece of wire and making a
coil or other shape at the end (anything large
enough to stop a bead). You can also pound
the end of the wire into a lat paddle shape.
Tips
If you use diagonal wire cutters, the ends of
your jump rings will be pointed.
plain
paddle
decorative
eye
jeweled
BDS-NB0909
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