Chorwacja - Dubrovnik - Riviera and Islands (2007).pdf

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HARMONY
county is rich in carefully
cultivated landscape and places
with long history. Numerous mon-
uments, archives and magnificent
treasuries testify to this. It is the
region of the historic towns of
Dubrovnik, KorËula, Ston; the re-
mains of ancient Narona and the
lost, possibly sunken town of Epi-
daur; of important harbours of PloËe and MetkoviÊ; of com-
munities of great historical importance — Cavtat, Lopud,
Slano, Mali Ston, OrebiÊ; and of a few dozen little villages
blending into the landscape of the coast or a river bank, of
a hill or a field. Also, there are about a hundred renaissance
summer houses built by merchants, nobles and seamen in
nice bays, or on the edges of valleys, surrounded by gardens
and parks. On certain sites, these summer
houses were built in spectacular rows, like in
Rijeka DubrovaËka, on the island of ©ipan, in
Konavle. Many different sovereign and ma-
rine powers touched and clashed in this area
throughout its turbulent history: Byzantium,
the Saracens, Croatia, Normandy, Venice,
some small kingdoms and principalities, then
the Hungaro-Croatian state and through it
the Roman-German empire, the
Ottoman empire, Habsburg’s and
Napoleon’s empire. Situated on
such a crossroads, a small town like
Dubrovnik managed, through the
political artfulness of its nobles,
to achieve a wide and complete
form of self-government. Thus for
centuries it acted as a sovereign
state, the Republic of Dubrovnik.
Dubrovnik turned its independence into a cult of freedom,
stressed on every possible occasion by its statesmen, envoys
and poets. In 1929, Bernard Shaw, the famous Irish writer,
wrote: “Those who wish to see heaven on earth should come
to Dubrovnik”. He was not only praising the glorious his-
tory of Dubrovnik, but also the natural features of the whole
region, known today as the Dubrovnik-Neretva county.
Indeed, if anyone attempted to fit together
natural characteristics in order to achieve a
perfect harmony between man and nature,
surely he would leave out some of the diver-
sity that God has granted to this region.
Above: St Mark’s Cathedral in KorËula; A detail of the Neretva delta;
the islet of Saint Mary on the Mljet lakes.
Right: Lovrijenac Fortress, along with the walls, numerous turrets, bastions
and fortifications, is the manifest expression of Dubrovnik’s view of the
preciousness of freedom.
T he Dubrovnik-Neretva
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TREASURY
tory, Dubrovnik
has prided itself on
its abundant water
supplies. In the
scorching Medi-
terranean, where each drop of water is of
essential value, the first thing that catches
the eye after entering the city through
any of its entrances is a richly decorated,
fast-flowing fountain. This has been so ever
since the fourth decade of the 15th century.
Fountains have always been the most obvi-
ous symbols of the town’s prosperity.
From the distant mines situated
in the surrounding area, silver was transported
to Dubrovnik by dangerous routes, to be
exported by sea. Dubrovnik could offer
the most precious kind of silver, called
“glama”, an alloy of silver and gold. Prof-
its from the silver trade made it possible
to build a very complex water-supply sys-
tem. This would carry water from a dis-
tant spring to the town, to shine as silver
itself and dazzle every visitor as soon as
he entered the town. The proud com-
munity also trusted the creator of the
fountain, Pietro di Partino da Milano
— a sculptor and the court artist of the
Aragons — with the construction of
the stone reliefs on Kneæev dvor, one
of the symbols of Dubrovnik’s identity. He also designed the re-
liefs on the fountains, intended to be an indication of the town’s
prosperity. Not even the much more powerful rival town of Ven-
ice could afford such extravagance. The people of KorËula, under
Venetian rule, were expected to carefully collect every drop of
water as a gift from heaven. In KorËula, the cisterns were often
empty, and the barrels full of vintage wine. From some of the sil-
ver passing through the town, the images of saints and patrons for
the churches of Dubrovnik were made. Even after
a large number of earthquakes, fires and other
adversities, the town’s churches, cathedral
and convents still pride themselves on their
treasury of gold and silver objects. All this
time, plenty of fresh water irrigates the
rich and fertile soil of the Neretva delta!
Above: Navicula, a silver receptacle for frankincense in the shape of the
Dubrovnik-made ship, nave; A silver statute of St Blaise, Dubrovnik’s
patron saint; Sponza Palace, the main commercial and financial
centre of medieval Dubrovnik; Onofrio’s Little Fountain.
Right: Traditional way of making jewelry.
T hroughout his-
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WORLD MARITIME
enjoyed great importance in the move-
ment of goods and travelers in Europe for a
thousand years. The city was awarded this role
due to its exceptional geographical position and
held onto it for a long time. It is the last protected point along the
sailing route from the ports of the North-western Adriatic towards
the south-east. South of Dubrovnik, the only thing facing sail-
ing boats is the deep, open sea.
During bad weather, Dubrovnik
presented a safe haven for trav-
ellers patiently waiting for calm-
er seas or for those travelling by
land to destinations like Con-
stantinople, the wealthy cities
of the East and the Holy Land.
This is how this strong citadel,
a safe refuge for travellers, be-
came one of the most important
points along the world travel
route. Tiny Dubrovnik thus be-
came the counterpoint to the
larger Venice. Here rose another exceptional
town, KorËula, situated on the narrowest of pas-
sages full of small reefs. From the time of Ven-
ice, KorËula was used as the most convenient
point for the monitoring of traffic. Both towns
are built upon cliffs protecting extensive ports. The roles of both
towns gave them their characteristic shape and their particular
town plan. Many of the streets in KorËula lead to the highest point
of the town, the bell-tower of
the Cathedral of St Mark. The
streets of Dubrovnik descend
from the clifftops to the bay,
towards the wide main street
called Stradun. The strength
of Dubrovnik resulted from its
skill in diplomacy which the
political elite often took advan-
tage of for their own benefit.
By intelligent manoeuvring, it
benefitted from the Turkish ad-
vance towards Central Europe
in the 16th century to establish
“The residents of Dubrovnik have a lot of
ships which sail far.” (El Idrisi, 12th c.)
A safe journey was guaranteed by skilful
shipbuilders, numerous coastal fortifications
and lighthouses.
its almost monopolistic commercial position. The boom which
followed saw an unprecedented growth in the commercial fleet
which competed with the largest of the maritime fleets in the
Mediterranean. As the number of commercial ships carrying
Dubrovnik flags grew, so did their nave, specifically constructed
boats from Dubrovnik shipbuilders. The largest boats from the
shipyard could only be lowered into the sea on their starboard
side. This unique procedure is still not easily adopted by con-
temporary shipyards. And today, for lovers of hand-crafted boats,
natives of KorËula still construct them; boats which evolved from
centuries of life beside the sea.
POWER
D ubrovnik, one of the smallest cities,
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MARCO POLO
the town of KorËula and
the island of the same name in the
Dubrovnik region as being the place of origin of the Polo
family, from which its most famous member, Marco, by
way of Venice set forth towards the East. KorËula is one
of the best preserved planned medieval Mediterranean
towns, whose layout dates back to the XIII century. Due to
its developed shipping trade, the town was always adorned
with a progressive and open spirit. A high degree of order
in town life is confirmed by the town statute from 1214,
which corresponds in time with similar provisions in the
most developed European towns. Along with the origin of
his family, the maritime battle of the two trade Republics
of Genoa and Venice in 1298, one of the largest and most
vicious maritime battles in
Medieval times, also links
Marco Polo with KorËula.
The Polo galleon was in the
Venetian fleet, under the
command of Marco himself,
who was then 44 years of
age. Captured, in a Genoese
jail he began writing books
in which he summarised his
twenty-four year stay in, at
the time, unexplored parts of
the world. As he wasn’t much
of a writer, he dictated his
recollections to a writer of chivalrous novels Rustichello. So
it was that in the Old French language emerged the most
translated book of all times, after the Bible, whose original
title was Divisament don Monde (The description of the
world), later called Il Milione, which means “A million
wonders”. The appearance and expansion of the writings
about the trips of Marco Polo, his father and uncle, meant
a shift of the Eastern border of the known world. The va-
riety of Marco Polo’s observations and acquired knowledge
enabled historians, sociologist, geographers, ethnologists
and anthropologists to create, or evoke an image of the new
world. Europeans first heard about Tibet, Madagascar, Ja-
pan and other countries from Marco Polo, they heard about
paper money, coal, oil and porcelain for the first time, they
were awed by the descriptions of wondrous landscapes,
useful plants, unusual ani-
mals and spices; some Chi-
nese inventions like blocks
in printing and gun powder
were a great novelty in the
West, while the compass be-
came an essential instrument
in navigation. However, in
the end, Europeans and later
everyone else became lov-
ers of the Chinese culinary
product spaghetti which was
brought to their table by this
great world traveller.
M any documents mention
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