The Ten Bushcraft Books by Robert Graves.pdf

The Ten Bushcraft Books by Robert Graves

.introduction

The section is home to an on-line edition of a classic text that is sadly now out of print, 'The 10

Bushcraft Books' by Richard Graves. Richard Harry Graves was born 17th July, 1898 (some

sources list year of birth as 1897 or 1899) in Co. Waterford, Ireland. He died 3 days before I was

born, on 3rd February, 1971 in Sydney, Australia. He is credited with the authorship of several

books and is formerly a Commanding Officer of the Australian Jungle Survival & Rescue

Detachment on active service with the U.S.A.A.F.

'The 10 Bushcraft Books' are the seminal texts on bushcraft and this on-line edition (based on the

first edition of the book set) has been released to share this unique source of knowledge.

Originally written as wartime information for conducting rescue missions, the notes were later

revised and prepared for a School of Bushcraft which was conducted for nearly 20 years. Almost

all the quirks of the original text have been retained (illustrations by the author, inconsistent word

usage, strange punctuation, etc.) although I have removed 50% of the commas (believe it or not). I

have also converted all imperial measurements into metric.

Each web page in this section is quite large (typically 100 to 150 Kb, including images). All large

images have a 'thumbnail' place holder that can be used to access the full-size version of the image

(by clicking on the thumbnail image).

Use all information contained herein at your own risk. No liability of any kind for the use, or

misuse, of this information will be accepted by the owner of this web site.

.dust jacket

The author of "The 10 Bushcraft Books", Richard Graves, is a member of the Irish literary family

of that name. He is also the author of "Creating Customers" and "More About Creating

Customers", two authoritative works on marketing.

An enthusiastic bushwalker, skier and pioneer of white-water canoeing, he foresaw how a

knowledge of bushcraft could save lives in the Second World War. To achieve this end, he initiated

and led the Australian Jungle Rescue Detachment, assigned to the Far East American Air Force.

This detachment of 60 specially selected A.I.F. soldiers successfully effected more than 300 rescue

missions, most of which were in enemy-held territory, without failure of a mission or loss of a

man.

An essential preliminary for rescue was survival, and it was for this purpose that the notes for

these books were written. These notes were later revised and prepared for a School in Bushcraft

which was conducted for nearly 20 years. As far as is known, "The 10 Bushcraft Books" are

unique. There is nothing quite like them, nor is any collection of bushcraft knowledge under one

cover as comprehensive.

The term "Bushcraft" is used because woodcraft commonly means either knowledge of local fauna

and flora or else is associated with the blood-sports of hunting and shooting.

The traps and snares included in this book would be ineffective for native animals which are insect

enters or grazers. These traps have been included because they would only be effective in catching

predatory animals such as cats and dogs which have taken to the bush, and other "pest" creatures.

"Bushcraft" describes the activity of how to make use of natural materials found locally in any

area. It includes many of the skills used by primitive man, and to these are added "white man"

skills necessary for survival, such as time and direction, and the provision of modern "white man"

comforts. The practice of bushcraft develops in an individual a remarkable ability to adapt quickly

to a changing environment. Because this is so, the activity is a valuable counter to today's

specialisation, and particularly significant in youth training work.

.introduction

The practice of bushcraft shows many unexpected results. The five senses are sharpened, and

consequently the joy of being alive is greater.

The individual's ability to adapt and improvise is developed to a remarkable degree. This in turn

leads to increased self-confidence.

Self-confidence, and the ability to adapt to a changing environment and to overcome difficulties,

is followed by a rapid improvement in the individual's daily work. This in turn leads to

advancement and promotion.

Bushcraft, by developing adaptability, provides a broadening influence, a necessary counter to

offset the narrowing influence of modern specialisation.

For this work of bushcraft all that is needed is a sharp cutting implement: knife, axe or machete.

The last is the most useful. For the work, dead materials are most suitable. The practice of

bushcraft conserves, and does not destroy, wildlife.

R.H.G.

.list of bushcraft books

• Book 1. - Ropes & Cords

• Book 2. - Huts & Thatching

• Book 3. - Campcraft

• Book 4. - Food & Water

• Book 5. - Firemaking

• Book 6. - Knots & Lashings

• Book 7. - Tracks & Lures

• Book 8. - Snares & Traps

• Book 9. - Travel & Gear

• Book 10. - Time & Direction

Introduction

One of the first needs in Bushcraft is the ability to join poles or sticks. The only method available is by

the use of lashings.

To use lashings however, it is necessary to have, find or make materials for this purpose.

The ability to spin or plait fibres into ropes or cords is one of the oldest of man's primitive skills. The

method is simple and follows precisely the same stages that are made use of by today's complicated

machines.

The material from which to spin or plait ropes or cords is in abundance everywhere. Any fibrous

material which has reasonable length, moderate strength and is flexible or pliable can be used. These

are the three things to look for and they can be found in many vines, grasses, barks, palms and even in

the hair of animals.

The breaking strains of handmade ropes and cords varies greatly with different materials. Consequently

it is essential that the rope or cord be tested for the purpose for which it will be used before being

actually put to use.

The uses to which these hand-made ropes and cords can be put, apart from lashing, is almost endless

and some few are included in this book.

.the making of ropes and cords

Almost any natural fibrous material can be spun into good serviceable rope or cord, and many materials

which have a length of 12" to 24" [30 cm to 60 cm], or more, can be braided or plaited. Ropes of up to

3" and 4" [7.5 cm and 10 cm] diameter can be 'laid' by four people, and breaking strains for bush-made

rope of 1" [2.5 cm] diameter range from 100 lbs. [45 kg] to as high as 2,000 lbs. or 3,000 lbs. [905 kg

or 1,360 kg]

.breaking strains

Taking a three lay rope of 1" [2.5 cm] diameter as standard, the following table of breaking strains may

serve to give a fair idea of general strengths of various materials. For safety sake always regard the

lowest figure as the breaking strain unless you know otherwise.

Green Grass 100 lbs. to 250 lbs. [45 kg to 115 kg]

Bark Fibre 500 lbs. to 1,500 lbs. [225 kg to 680 kg]

Palm Fibre 650 lbs. to 2,000 lbs. [295 kg to 905 kg]

Sedges 2,000 lbs. to 2,500 lbs. [905 kg to 1,135 kg]

Monkey Rope (Lianas) 560 lbs. to 700 lbs. [245 kg to 320 kg]

Lawyer Vine (Calamus) ½" [1.25 cm] dia. 1,200 lbs. [545 kg]

Double the diameter quadruples the breaking strain. Halve the diameter, and you reduce the breaking

strain to one fourth.

.principles of rope making materials

To discover whether a material is suitable for rope making it must have four qualities:

• It must be reasonably long in the fibre.

• It must have 'strength'.

• It must be pliable.

• And it must have 'grip' so that the fibres will 'bite' onto one another.

There are three simple tests to find if any material is suitable.

First pull on a length of the material to test it for strength. The second test, to be applied if it has

strength, is to twist it between the fingers and 'roll' the fibres together; if it will stand this and not 'snap'

apart, tie a thumb knot in it and gently tighten the knot. If the material does not cut upon itself, but

allows the knot to be pulled taut, then it is suitable for rope making, providing that the material will

'bite' together and is not smooth or slippery.

You will find these qualities in all sorts of plants, in ground vines, in most of the longer grasses, in

some of the water reeds and rushes, in the inner barks of many trees and shrubs, and in the long hair or

wool of many animals.

Some green freshly gathered materials may be 'stiff' or unyielding. When this is the case try passing it

through hot flames for a few moments. The heat treatment should cause the sap to burst through some

of the cell structure, and the material thus becomes pliable.

Fibres for rope making may be obtained from many sources:

• Surface roots of many shrubs and trees have strong fibrous bark;

• Dead inner bark of fallen branches of some species of trees and in the new growth of many trees

such as willows;

• In the fibrous material of many water and swamp growing plants and rushes;

• In many species of grass and in many weeds;

• In some sea weeds;

• In fibrous material from leaves, stalks and trunks of many palms;

• In many fibrous-leaved plants such as the aloes.

.gathering and preparation of materials

In some plants there may be a high content of vegetable gum and this can often be removed by soaking

in water, or by boiling, or again, by drying the material and 'teasing' it into thin strips.

Some of the materials have to be used green if any strength is required. The materials that should be

green include the sedges, water rushes, grasses, and lianas.

Grasses, sedges and water rushes should be cut and never pulled. Cutting above ground level is

'harvesting', but pulling up the plant means its 'destruction'.

It is advisable not to denude an area entirely but to work over a wide location and harvest the most

suitable material, leaving some for seeding and further growth.

For the gathering of sedges and grasses, be particularly careful therefore to 'harvest' the material, that

is, cut what you require above ground level, and take only from the biggest clumps.

By doing this you are not destroying the plant, but rather aiding the natural growth, since your

harvesting is truly pruning.

You will find that from a practical point of view this is far the easiest method.

Many of the strong-leafed plants are deeply rooted, and you simply cannot pull a leaf off them.

Palm fibre in tropical or sub-tropical regions is harvested. You will find it at the junction of the leaf and

the palm trunk, or you will find it lying on the ground beneath many palms. Palm fibre is a 'natural' for

making ropes and cords.

Fibrous matter from the inner bark of trees and shrubs is generally more easily used if the plant is dead

or half dead. Much of the natural gum will have dried out and when the material is being teased, prior

to spinning, the gum or resin will fall out in a fine powder.

There may be occasions when you will have to use the bark of green shrubs, but avoid this unless it is

absolutely essential, and only cut a branch here and there. Never ever cut a complete tree just because

you want the bark for a length of cord.

.to make cord by spinning with the fingers

Use any material with long strong threads or fibres which you have previously tested for strength and

pliability. Gather the fibres into loosely held strands of even thickness. Each of these strands is twisted

clockwise. The twist will hold the fibre together. The strands should be from 1⁄8" [3 mm] downwards -

for a rough and ready rule there should be about 15 to 20 fibres to a strand. Two, three or four of these

strands are later twisted together, and this twisting together or 'laying' is done with an anti-clockwise

twist, while at the same time the separate strands which have not yet been laid up are twisted

clockwise. Each strand must be of equal twist and thickness.

This illustration shows the general direction of twist and the method whereby the

fibres are bonded into strands. In similar manner the twisted strands are put

together into lays, and the lays into ropes. Illustrated in this diagram is a two

strand lay.

The person who twists the strands together is called the 'layer', and he must see that the twisting is

even, that the strands are uniform, and that the tension on each strand is equal. In laying, he must watch

that each of the strands is evenly 'laid up', that is, that one strand does not twist around the other two.

(A thing you will find happening the first time you try to 'lay up'.)

When spinning fine cords for fishing lines, snares, etc., considerable care must be taken to keep the

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