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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
KYIV
Winter 2012 - 2013
Visiting Russia
Getting there from Kyiv, visa
issues and the highlights to
both Moscow and
St-Petersburg
Bukovel
Ukraine’s top-notch ski resort
N°51
www.inyourpocket.com
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All you need to
know about where
to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy
Online
Print
Mobile
Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides
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Contents
3
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Arriving & Transport
5
Arriving in Kyiv, getting to the city, car rental
and public transport
Basics
8
Some useful information
Culture & Events
11
Culture celebrations & Sport events
Visiting Russia
16
The essentials for a weekend in Moscow
and St-Petersburg
Where to stay
20
A fine selection of places to spend the night
Restaurants
Winter weather in Kyiv is cold, wet and frosty.
If you’re going out and still think to wear or not gloves and
a cap, think twice and put all that warm clothes on. Then
nothing will disturb you from enjoying our beautiful city.
29
Kyiv dining scene
Cafés
35
Nightlife
36
Bars, Pubs & Clubs
Sightseeing
Essential Kyiv
39
Museums
43
Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra
46
Bukovel
47
Ukraine’s top-notch ski resort
Sport & Leisure
48
Winter sports and indoor options
Shopping
49
Shopping mals, fashion and food
Lifestyle directory
50
Useful directory for staying in Kyiv
Business directory
52
Banks, accountants and lawyers
Maps & Index
Street register & Index
53
Since New Year and Christmas time is coming and
everyone needs presents, plenty of shopping centres can
be visited around Kyiv.
Maps
55
kyiv.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2012 - 2013
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Foreword
4
Much to the Grinch’s delight, Christmas celebra-
tions were officially banned during the Soviet era.
Much to the Grinch’s dissatisfaction, contemporary
Ukrainians are making up for lost Christmases by
celebrating twice: once on December 24 and of-
ficially on January 7. The good old habit of partying
on New Year’s Eve is still alive and well, and if you
happen to be in Kyiv, expect plenty of decorated
trees, massive firework displays and enough vodka
to send Did Moroz (Grandfather Frost, a.k.a Santa
Clause) to an early grave.
Locals usually spend New Year’s Eve with family
and friends eating massive portions of scrump-
tious festive dishes, exchanging presents and
partying until the sun comes up. Thousands are
expected to join the traditional outdoor party on
Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square), and
with hundreds of business owners already in place
protesting the country’s new tax code, celebrations
at the capital’s main square should be extra special
this year. Getting a table at a popular restaurant
or club can be tricky - many have been booked
for months - but don’t get discouraged, these
things have a magical way of working their way
out. According to local tradition, if you make a wish
when the clock strikes twelve and then drink the
champagne in your glass to the final drop, your wish
will come true.
Christmas in Ukraine is officially celebrated on
January 7, the date designated by the Ukrainian Or-
thodox calendar. Festivities begin on Christmas Eve
(Sviat Vechir) with Holy Supper (Sviata Vecheria).
Family and friends come together to feast on an
eye-popping, belly-busting assortment of no less
than 12 dishes including the mandatory Kuti - por-
ridge prepared with a special syrup of honey, grated
poppy seeds, raisins and walnuts. Enjoy!
The In Your Pocket team would like to wish you
Z Novym Rokom (Happy New Year) and Z Rizdvom
(Merry Christmas)!
The World of In Your Pocket
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Romania
Slovenia
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Italy
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Montenegro
FYR Macedonia
Albania
Greece
More than 20 years since we published the first In
Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - we
have grown to become the largest publisher of
locally produced city guides in Europe. We now
cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with
Oristano , on the Italian island of Sardinia, the latest
city to be pocketed ) and the number of concise,
witty, well-written and downright indispensable In
Your Pocket guides published each year is app-
roaching five million . We also publish an iPhone
app , including more than 40 guides, which can be
downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for
‘IYP Guides’ by name.
To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket , like us on Facebook (facebook.com/
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Editorial
Editors & Writers
Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova
Research Natasha Martisova
Layout & Design
Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd.
Photos © Oleg Stelmakh
Cover photo www.flickr.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky
Sales & Circulation
Kyiv
Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16
Lviv
Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97
Odesa
Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS
2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB In
Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124,
Vilnius, Lithuania).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers’ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Publisher
Neolitas-KIS Ltd.
Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25
Kyiv 04080, Ukraine
tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20
+380 67 977 44 16
kyiv@inyourpocket.com
Registration No. KB 7467
© Neolitas-KIS
Printed by Express Poligraph, Kyiv
Published 4 times per year
60,000 copies annualy
Maps
© DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2013
© Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2013
Kyiv In Your Pocket
kyiv.inyourpocket.com
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ArrivAl & trAnsport
5
By plane
Boryspil State International Airport ( Аеропорт Бориспiль )
is where almost all international flights land and depart. The
smaller Kyiv Zhulyani Airport ( Аеропорт Київ Жуляни ) is
only 8km from centre and handles mostly domestic travel
and Wizz Air flights from Europe.
Located 34km east of Kyiv, Boryspil has recently opened
its largest Terminal, D. International passengers now ar-
rive and depart at Terminals B, D and F. Terminal B also
services domestic flights. Ticket agents, immigration, and
customs officials speak some English, so don’t worry if
you haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian. Customs
control has been greatly relaxed in recent years, but it still
makes sense to travel light and pass through the green
express line when arriving. If you need to connect to a local
flight, a free shuttle bus circulates between terminals every
20 min. Feel like stretching your legs? Walk time between
all Terminals is about 15 min. At all terminals you will find
currency exchange offices ( обмiн валют ), information,
car rental offices, cafes, public telephones, etc.
Getting to town Exiting of the terminals in Boryspil Airport,
you are sure to be approached by cabbies. The 20-25 minute
ride to centre will set you back about 200-250Hr. SkyBuses
headed to Kyiv leave from Terminal B and F roughly every 10-
15 minutes. The charge is 27Hr and the bus will drop you off
about an hour later at the Central Train Station or you can get
off at the first stop near the Kharkivska metro station (green
line). Tickets are available online at www.skybus.kiev.ua.
A taxi from Kyiv Zhulyany Airport to the city centre should
not cost you more than 70Hr. Trolleybus #9 (1.50Hr)
brings you to Tereschenkivska street nearby Ploscha Lva
Tolstoho metro station (blue line). Trolleybus #22 goes to
Dorohozhychi metro station (green line). Marshrutka #213
(2.50Hr) shuttles passengers to Dorohozhychi (green line)
and Petrivka (blue line) metro stations.
Boryspil State International Airport Boryspil, tel.
(+380) 44 393 43 71, www.kbp.aero.
Kyiv Zhulyany Airport E-1, Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 79,
tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08, www.airport.kiev.ua.
By bus
All international buses arrive at Kyiv’s Central Bus Station
( tsentralnyi avtovokzal ). The station is still waiting for its
European renovations and sits like a hideous centrepiece on
Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency
exchange office ( обмін валют ) is next to the main exit, and
just outside is an ATM ( банкомат ) that dispenses Ukrainian
hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is
available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00).
Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you
to the city centre for approximately 50Hr. Demiivs’ka metro
station (blue line) is right near the bus station. Just go round
McDonalds’ building, pass a subway and find the metro
entrance to your right.
Central Bus Station H-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, M Demi-
ivska, tel. (+380) 44 527 99 86. Q Open 05:00 - 24:00.
By train
The refurbished Central Railway Station ( центральний
вокзал ) has now been joined by a futuristic-looking South-
ern Railway Station ( південний вокзал ), with the platforms
located between the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs
to the left from the central main hall boasts comfy couches
for a 10Hr admission fee. Currency exchange ( обмін валют )
points and ATMs ( банкомат ) are in the main halls of each
station. Telephone calls can be made by paying money at a
window on the 2nd floor near the central station’s escalators
and then proceeding to the appropriate booth. Coin-operated
In the news
NEW STOP SMOKING LAW
You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine,
and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand
smoke just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a
ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by
one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are
located throughout the city. But a new more rigorous
law on smoking prohibition takes effect nationwide on
December 16, 2012. It sets a total ban on smoking in
restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces),
cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions
(including playgrounds and stadiums), public transport
(including stops), underpasses (subways), and inside
apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). All other
premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, airports,
railway terminals) should have designated smoking areas
equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines
from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law.
Passport for train tickets
Starting from January 1, 2013 to buy a ticket for any
train (except regional) the one must produce a passport
or driving licence. Buying tickets online you should state
you name at the certain fields. Boarding on a train you
also must provide a document.
pay telephones are scattered throughout the building, while
card-operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance.
Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi
rides to Khreschatyk Street area cost 50Hr and up. The
entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (red line) is to your left
as you exit the central station - look for the green letter M.
Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various
trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the central
station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head down
the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard , which
runs into Khreschatyk.
Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl.
1, M Vokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05, www.uz.gov.
ua/en. Q Open 24Hrs.
kyiv.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2012 - 2013
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