HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
Two British royal yachts were called Royal Caroline. The first, laid down in the shipyards of Sheerness in 1700, was launched under the name Peregrine Galley and served in the Royal Navy until 1733. After appropriate adaptation work to convert her to a royal yacht, this ship had the honour to be called Royal Caroline. In 1749 she was converted back to Royal Navy use, assumed the name Peregrine and was lost in 1761 on route to Lisbon.
By contrast, the second Royal Caroline was planned from the outset to be a royal yacht (to replace the Peregrine) and was launched in 1749 in the shipyards of Deptford. It is a model of this ship that is presented in this construction kit.
In the year 1761 when the Peregrine was lost, the Royal Caroline was renamed Royal Charlotte, continuing to serve the British Royal Family till 1805. She was finally dismantled in 1820.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
General notes:
- All dimensions given are in millimeters. The symbol 0 means diameter.
- English translations of the Italian notes on the plans are given in these instructions.
- Component numbers (n.11, etc) refer to the numbered plywood parts shown on Plan 7.
- Figure numbers given below (Fig.1, etc) refer to the numbered figures on Plans 1, 2 and 3.
- Part numbers (P.23, Part.23, etc.) refer to the detailed drawings on Plans 3, 4, 5 and 6.
- The sequence given here is the recommended order for completing the model.
- It is useful to hold the keel in a vice or working cradle while the ship is being assembled. Keel-clamp Mantua Model Art. 8155 (not supplied) is ideal for this purpose. If you do not have a suitable clamp, make up a working cradle by nailing two wooden runners 5mm thick and set 5mm apart onto a wooden base, so that the keel will sit between the runners.
PLAN NUMBER 7
Put the laser-engraved sheet of decorative panels to one side for use later. On the seven laser-cut plywood sheets supplied, and using the full-sized drawings on Plan Number 7 as a guide, mark the identity numbers on the back of the parts with a soft pencil - so that the marks may be erased later if necessary. Provide yourself with some numbered storage boxes. Remove all of the plywood parts from the plywood sheets by cutting through the small bridges with a craft knife, smoothing all cut edges with fine sandpaper and taking care not to destroy the laser-cut outline of each piece. Put the pieces in the storage boxes for safekeeping.
PLAN NUMBER 1
This plan shows how to construct the framing of the ship; how to fit the deck supports and decks; and how to plank the hull and stem. Fig. 1: Trial-fit frames n.1-n.10 into the keel n.12 and
fit deck-plates n.16 and n.17 down into the frames without glue, filing the slots in the parts as necessary so that they slide together without being forced. Warning: the parts are fragile and will fracture if forced.
Fig. 2: Glue the transom supports n.18 into frame n.10 and then fit the transom frame n.11. Use small pins to hold the pieces together until the glue has set, then remove the pins. Glue the beam n.1a accurately in place on the top of frame n.1. Fig. 3: Before continuing with the assembly, chamfer the edges of frames n.1 and n.2 and the support cheeks n.15 and n.23 so that the hull planks will form a smooth curve around the frames (see fig.4). Fig. 4: Glue and fit frames n.1-n.10 into the keel n.12 and before the glue sets, glue the deck-plates n.16 and n.17 securely in place. Using a straight-edge or ruler, check that the keel is not twisted or deformed along its length. Ensure that the frames are aligned with each other and that they are square to the keel. Clamp the assembly and put aside until the glue has set. Fig. 5: Glue the deck support beams n.1b, 2b, 3b 4b, 5b, 6b, 7b, 7c, 8b, 8c, 9b, 10b, and 11 b (but not n.2a, 3a or 6c) onto the appropriate frames as shown in fig.5. Fig. 6: Glue the support cheeks n.15 and n.23 in place both sides of the bow.
Trial-fit the main-deck n.20, filing the slots as necessary to get a good fit around the frames and onto the curved deck supports. Tip: hold the sides of the deck with one hand to curve the deck from side-to-side before insertion between the frames. Apply glue to the tops of the deck supports n.1 b to n.7b and fit deck n.20 in place, clamping it with temporary pins to hold the deck down firmly onto each curved support until set. Remove the pins. Now fit and glue the cabin front transom n.6C into position in frame n.6. Fit the fore-deck support beams n.2A and n.3A. Apply glue to the tops of the remaining deck supports and first fit deck n.21 then deck n.22 in place, clamping them with temporary pins to hold the decks down firmly onto each curved support until set. Remove the pins. Important: File down or sand the outside edges of the decks so that they are flush with the edges of the frames, to ensure that the hull planks will fit accurately against the frames and deck edges. Fig. 7: Hull Planking: If you are new to ship-building, please first read the separate instructions on planking provided at the end of this booklet. Two layers of planking are applied: The inner layer of planks uses 1,5x6 strips; the second layer uses 1x6 strips.
Start the planking of the hull by setting the first two planks on each side of the hull aligned accurately as shown in fig. 9 by the two sets of dashed lines and the symbols 1° and 2°. The intersection points of these planks with the various frames can be directly seen on fig. 9, drawn to a scale of 1:1. Now fit three more planks to each side below the first plank. Add three further planks below these four. The first seven planks will fit without tapering. Further planks will need to be tapered to fit the curve of the hull. To achieve a good result, we advise you to follow the planking sequence shown in fig.7. Alternate the sides
every 3 planks to avoid twisting the structure. As necessary, add more planks to bring the sides up to the required height to cover the frames, cabin sides, etc. Leave the stern ends of the planks protruding at least 20mm past the stern transom as these will be trimmed to shape later.
Fig. 8: Note that the planking on the sides of the forward deck n.19 protrudes 3mm above the top of the frames n.1-n.3. The highest part of this planking must also continue toward the centre of the hull, protruding at least 25mm beyond frame n.3. As shown in fig.9, note also that the fore part of plank 2° and the others below it must protrude beyond the front edge of the cabin by at least 35 mm. The planking sides of the cabin deck n.22 must protrude at least 3mm above frames n.6-n.8. Fig. 9: This is a cross section of the framework drawn to a scale of 1:1.
Fig. 10: Cover the curved underside of the transom supports n.18 with 1,5x6 mm planks cut to shape to fit between the protruding ends of the stern hull planks. After the glue has set, trim the stern planks back flush with the transom planking as shown. To prepare the hull to receive the second layer of planking, fill any cracks or splits with slivers of wood or wood filler; scrape the surface of the hull to remove excess glue and then smooth carefully with fine grade sandpaper. Now apply the second layer of planks using 1.5x6 strips, following the same instructions used for the first planking. Plank the second layer with greater care, as this is the layer that will be in view. Fill any splits or cracks with wood-colored filler, then scrape and sand the entire hull surface smooth. Protect the hull with two coats of sanding sealer (such as Mantua Model Art.4401714, not supplied in the kit), sanding lightly between coats.
PLAN NUMBER 2
This plan shows how to finish off the planking, how to build the ship's handrails and how to add some deck and hull items to the structure. Fig. 1: With a small saw, remove the top part of frames n.2 and n.3 flush with the deck n.20 and support beams n.2a and n.3a. Remove the top part of frames n.9 and n.10 flush with deck n.21. Fig. 2: For the deck planks, cut 0.5x3 light wood strips into accurate 80mm lengths, ensuring a neat, square cut at both ends. Note that it may be useful to make up a cutting template (see fig.13), as some 100 or so of these planks will be needed to cover the entire deck area. Cover decks n.20, n21 and n.22 with deck planks, positioning the planks alternately using the scale plan-view fig.16 as a guide. Leave tiny gaps between the planks to simulate caulked joints. Trim the planking around the holes in the deck, and fit shaped pieces of planking in corners so as to cover the entire deck surface. When the deck covering is finished and dry, scrape the surface of the deck to remove excess glues and then smooth carefully with fine grade sandpaper. Varnish the deck with sanding sealer. When the deck planking is completed, plank the insides of the parapet walls (bulwarks) with horizontal 0.5x6 walnut strips. Cover the inside face of the bow transom n.1 and the stern transom n.12; and the fore and aft cabin transoms n.6 and n.8 with vertical 0.5x6 walnut strips. Paint the inside faces of the bulwarks with Pompeian red acrylic.
Fig. 3: Glue the plywood support plates n.2C and n.3C on the ends of beams n.2a and n.3a, ensuring perfect alignment with the bulwarks and beams. Fig. 4: Now fit deck n.19 in place, securing it with temporary pins until set. Cover the deck with 0.5x3 light planks, positioning the planks alternately using the scale plan-view fig.16 as a guide. Trim off the excess hull planking flush with the deck planking and smooth carefully with sand-paper. Protect with two coats of sanding sealer.
Fig. 5: Cut out the cardboard template supplied in the kit. Line it up on the starboard side of the hull with the three points of reference A-B-C, corresponding to the three fixed profiles of the hull and fix it to the side, using some small pins or masking tape. With a well-sharpened pencil mark the profile of the rails and the eight openings for gun-ports and stern windows. Remove the template and check the dimensions of the apertures against the side view on Plan 4 and fig. 9 on Plan 2 making any modifications necessary to achieve an accurate profile. Reverse the template and repeat for the port side. Using a small drill and cutter, carefully cut out the apertures and with a craft knife or small plane, trim the parapet walls to size. File carefully to final size and sand smooth. Fig. 6: Fix the figure-head deck n.24 in place, modifying the profile, where necessary, to bring it into line with the hull planking below. Cover it with 0.5x3 light planks, laid longitudinally. Cover the bow transom with 0.5x6 planks fitted vertically.
Fig. 7: Cover the stern transom and the curved part below with 1x6 mm planks laid horizontally. Fig. 8: Fit the three vertical companionway walls plywood parts X, Y and Z on deck n.21, inserting walls X and Y down onto the false deck n.17 below. Cut and glue the walnut edging planks around the companionway as shown in the fig.8. Fig. 9: This confirms the dimension of the cabin window apertures.
Fig. 10: Follow the sequence shown in the figure to create the three windows on each side of the royal cabin. The drips are made from walnut rings, 016x012x5, divided in two. Carry out the whole operation with the greatest care and attention using small amounts of glue, and keeping glue off the visible areas.
Fig. 11: Make the parapet rails from 2x6 walnut planks, ensuring that the rails are set to protrude 2mm over the outside edge of the parapet planks. Fit the cross-rails on decks n.19 and n.22 so that they protrude 1mm over the edges of the decks.
Fit two fender rubbing strakes made from 2x6 mm walnut plank along each side of the hull as shown, checking the positioning with the side view in Plan 4. Soak the planks in hot water before bending them. Hold them in place with temporary pins until the glue has set. Line the eight gun-ports with 0.5x3 mm walnut planks. Fig. 12: This figure shows the sequence for building the upper handrail, located in the central part of the parapet wall. It also recommends suitable tools. -Fig. 13: This shows the method of cutting deck planks using a home-made cutting jig. The figure also shows how the top of the stern transom should be filed to take the transom rail, so that the rail will sit parallel to the side rails. Fig. 14: Make the transom handrail from 2x8 mm plank, soaked then bent to shape, and glue it on the stern transom. After the glue is set, file down the two edges, bringing the rear edge flush with the outside planking on the transom. Note: A brass moulding will be glued on this handrail edge later. The moulding must decorate the upper part of the transom itself. File the front edge of the rail to match the curve of the transom.
Fig. 15: This diagram shows the construction of the stern side windows. Ensure that the apertures are cut accurately to 34x17mm as shown. Paint the upper side and the lower side of the two plywood parts K azure blue acrylic and glue them in place on the hull. Cut out the two pre-formed plastic windows supplied in the kit. Paint the inside surfaces with light-gray acrylic paint to simulate reflected sky. When dry, fix the windows on each side between the two plates K with a little glue, noting that the two windows are angled differently for port and starboard. Build the window frames from pieces of walnut plank, gluing them to each other, and keeping glue off the window panes.
Fig. 16: This 1:1 scale view is for reference and shows an overhead view of the model with all the deck structures in place.
PLAN NUMBER 3
Figs.1, 2 and 3 provide three detailed views of the ship with the various items annotated with reference numbers (P.1, etc.). Detailed drawings for each item (Part 1, etc) are provided to show how each is constructed. Also refer to Fig.16 on Plan 2 for the positioning of these items on the ship. Fettle the brass castings supplied with a fine file and small wire brush to remove excess casting material and to achieve a bright finish. Part 1: Large bollards on the figure-head deck. Two required. Make these from 6x6 Walnut strips and fix each to the deck with a tenon made from 0 1.5 brass wire.
Part 2: Foremast tacks. Two required. Make these from 03 mm dowel and 3x3 Walnut. Drill the hull each side and glue the tacks in place. Refer to fig.16 on Plan 2 to set the angles.
Part 3: Cleats. Two required. Make these from 2x6 Walnut strips. Fix them to the figurehead deck with tenons made from 0 1 brass wire. Part 4: Figurehead. Before fixing the figure-head, drill a 01.5 hole through the hand and fit the sceptre in place with a drop of instant glue. Fix the figurehead in place on the ram.
Gently form the brass ram curves so that they sit against the bow and hull as shown. Hold the ram curves in place and mark the profiles on the ram and the hull each side with a pencil. Paint the areas behind the ram curves with matt black acrylic. When dry, fix the two ram curves in place. , .,-....
Part 5: Hawse-hole Plates. Two required. Make these from 2x8 mm strip. Drill 03 holes to take the anchor ropes. Fix the anchor rope later when the anchors assemblies have been built. Part 7: Cat-davits. Two required. Make these from 6x6 mm walnut strip and fit them onto the foredeck as shown. Make the vertical posts (or bitts) from 5x5 strip, modelled and fitted in place as shown. Make the two cantilever davit supports from 4x12x12 walnut blocks. Make the two davit hooks from brass stemmed eyelets, fixing them in place with medium rope as shown. Part 6: Brightwork. Using figures 1, 2 and 3 as a guide, and referring to the scale side view on Plan 4, fit the remaining brass rails and decorative castings in place around the ship as follows: Stern decoration: Paint the stern transom and the curved area under the stern as far as the lower rubbing strake with azure blue acrylic and allow to dry. Prepare the laser-engraved plywood sheet as shown in the six photographs on page 10 of this booklet, using azure blue acrylic paint. Cut a sheet of clear plastic for the stern windows and paint it light-grey. Glue the plastic sheet onto the back of the laser-engraved windows. Fix the stern windows in place on the transom using small brass nails and referring to fig.3 as a guide. Fix the various brass mouldings and decorative castings on the transom and under the stern as shown in fig.3 and illustrated on the kit's box, leaving the lanterns until later. Gunwale decoration: Using a soft pencil draw a line along the hull marking the position of the brass rail that runs from the figure-head deck to the stern, and through the centre-line of the gun-ports to the stern windows. Paint the area between this line and the wooden parapet hand-rails, including the bow transom above the figure-head deck) with azure blue acrylic and allow to dry. Fit the laser-engraved decorative strips prepared previously in place under the handrails as shown in fig.1 and the side view on Plan 4. Gun ports: Fit a decorative casting around each porthole, secured with instant glue. Stern Side Window decorations: Fit a brass canopy above and brass swan support below each stern window. Side rails. Fit accurately-cut sections of brass moulding along the hull to make a brass rail running from the figure-head deck to the stern, through the centreline of the gun ports to the stern windows. Fit accurately-cut pieces of brass moulding on the sides of the ship to make the remaining side rails as shown in Plan 4. Gingerbread: Glue the remaining brass decorative mouldings along the sides and on the bow transom as shown in figs 1 and 2, and on Plan 4. Bow Support Rails. Glue the scroll heads to the cathead davits and bitts as shown in Part 6. Make the bow support rails from the brass moulding supplied and form them to shape using fingers rather than pliers. File a flat area on each end and drill a 01 hole in each flat to take a fixing nail. Fix the rails in place with a nail and a drop of glue on each end. Three cast figurines are fitted to the support rails on each side of the bow. Mark the positions of the three support rails on each figurine in turn and cut notches in the back with a round needle file to take the rails. Fix the figurines in place with glue.
Part 8: Anchor. File the two plywood anchor stocks supplied to achieve the desired tapers on three faces at each end. File square the opening into which the upper shank of the anchor will fit to match the size of the anchor shaft. Caution: the anchor castings are brittle and will snap if bent.
Secure the stocks on the anchors, and paint the assembly matt black acrylic. When dry, wind 5 or 6 turns of medium black rope in four places on each stock as shown, fixing the thread with a little glue. Insert a 06 brass ring through the tail of each anchor. Tie a 500mm length of large thread to each anchor ring and bind it with thin thread as shown. Put to one side as the anchor is fitted to the ship when everything else has been assembled. Part 9: Chain-wales.
Foremast Chain-wales. Identify the two plywood chain-wales with five holes. Check that the curved edge of each chain-wale fits the curve of the hull where it is to be fixed. Paint the outside edges of the chain-wales matt black. Refer to the overhead view on Plan 2 for the horizontal positioning of these chain-wales, and refer to Plan 4 for the vertical positioning on the ship's sides. Make the triangular support brackets from 2x10 Walnut plank. The trapezoidal support (fluke) is made from 3x22x22 Walnut board. The support base (or clog) on which the fluke sits is made from 6x6 Walnut block.
Mainmast and Mizzenmast Chain-wales: Identify the appropriate chain-wales from the overhead view on Plan 2. Check that the curved edge of each chain-wale fits the curve of the hull where it is to be fixed. Paint the outside edges of the chain-wales matt black. Make the triangular support brackets from 2x10 Walnut plank. Refer to the overhead view on Plan 2 for the horizontal positioning of these chain-wales, and refer to Plan 4 for the vertical positioning on the ship's sides. Part 10: Chain-plates and Dead-eyes. Fit dead-eyes and chain-plates into the chain-wales as shown. Note that the one-hole and two-hole chain-wales are fitted with the smaller size of deadeye. Fix the stirrup plates to the hull with long, brass nails and drops of glue, noting from Plan 4 how the chain-plates are angled towards the mast caps.
Part 11: Capstan. Cut the 22x22 capstan base from 0.5 Walnut sheet supplied. Make the capstan bars from 02 dowel. Fix the assembly onto the deck. Part 12: Scupper Ports. Make them from 2x8 plank. Glue them in place on the hull and carefully drill the 05 drainage holes when the glue has set. Part 13: Sea Gangway. Make the risers of the bulwark steps from 2x2 Walnut blocks, surmounted by treads made from pieces of 0.5x3 strip. Part 14: Ladder. Use the side pieces supplied. Use 1x6 strip for the treads. After gluing, cut the side-pieces down level with the top step. Put to one side. Part 15: Lanterns. Cut out all lantern components from the photo-engraved brass sheet in the kit. Using a 010 dowel, fold the three lantern grilles to make them perfectly circular so they will fit into the end-caps. File a small flat on the end of each lower lantern knob. Drill a 01.5 hole, 4mm deep, to take the support arm. Make the support arms from 01.5 brass wire.
Paint the decorative rosettes azure-blue. To make the lantern support brackets proceed as shown. Form the 01.5 brass wire around a 06 dowel using a pair of pliers to make the right-angle bends. After having cut off the excess wire, enlarge the ring as necessary to insert it over the knob and close the ring with pliers to pinch the knob tight. Important Note. The centre lantern has a double support arm, while the two side ones have only a single arm. Carefully drill the stern transom and fit the lanterns in place.
Part 16: Flag-staff Support. Position the two stanchions n.161 against the stern transom in turn, marking the points where the stanchions must be notched with a small file to fit around the handrail. Make the 4x12x12 flagstaff blocks from birch plank and drill a 02 hole through each. Chamfer the front and rear edges of the blocks to matches the slope of the stern transom. Paint the edges of the two stanchions matt black. Make the flag-staff from 02 dowel, and the flagstaff cap from 03 dowel.
Part 17: Companionway Hatch Cover. Make the sides from 2x3 strip glued onto plywood part n.171 and round off the four top corners. Notch the underside to fit the hatch onto the slide-rails. Paint the hatch matt white. When the paint is dry, glue a trimming piece of 0.5x20x20 walnut in the centre of the hatch. Glue the hatch in place on the slide-rails. Part 18: Falconet Supports. Make these from 3x3 Walnut plank, and notch them to fit around the handrail and against the parapet wall. Part 19: Cabin-deck Railing. Make the top handrail from 2x4 Walnut strip and fix it temporally to the lower rail with tape or pins. Carefully drill 02 holes through the rails as shown in the plan. Remove the tape or pins, and then insert the five pieces of 02 dowel. Lift up the handrail to the right height and fix the dowels in place with instant glue. File the dowels level with the rail, and glue the 0.5x3 finishing strip along the rail. Part 20: Royal Cabin. The diagrams give step-by-step instructions how to make the doors and windows of the Royal Cabin from 0.5x3 strip, pieces of 1mm and 2mm thick Walnut sheet, 1x1 Walnut plank and clear plastic window material. Take the dimensions from the 2:1 scale diagrams for the door and windows. The drips will be made sections cut from 020x15x4 Walnut rings. Paint the rear side of the windows light blue to simulate reflected sky, and glue the wooden parts together and not to the glass. The small panel containing the royal coat-of-arms is made from plywood part p.20. Paint it azure-blue on one side, and frame it with pieces of 1x1 mm walnut strip. Glue the brass coat-of-arms casting in the centre when dry, and fix the assembly on the cabin wall. Part 24: Eyebolts. Refer back to Fig.16 on Plan 2. Make and fit eyebolts into the deck around the masts, and around the foredeck as shown. Fit small brass rings through the heads of the brass pintles supplied, drill 01 holes in the deck and secure the pintles in place with a drop of instant glue. Part 25: Bitts. Make these from 3x5 strip. Insert tenons made from 01 brass wire. Drill the deck for the tenons and fix the bitts in place with glue.
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