MS2240-Niagara-Instructions.pdf

Niagara

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

U.S. BRIG, 1813

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

SCALE: 3/16" = 1' (1:64)

Overall length: 43"

Overall height: 27"

Overall width: 11"

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2240

HIST OR

ORY

HIST

The original Niagara was Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry’s second flagship during the Battle of Lake Erie on September 10,

1813. His victory over the British secured the Northwest Territory, opened supply lines, and lifted the nation’s morale.

Six ships in Perry’s fleet of nine, including Niagara , were built in Erie, Pennsylvania. To accomplish the task, shipwrights, block

makers, caulkers, boatbuilders, and laborers were recruited from Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, and elsewhere. Material was brought

in from all over the country.

The Navy assigned ship master Daniel Dobbins of Erie to direct construction until experienced builders arrived. In February

1813, Noah Brown, a New York shipbuilder, was hired to complete the construction. He also designed two of the four

schooners and the brigs, Niagara and Lawrence .

On March 27, 1813, Commodore Perry took command of the American naval forces at Lake Erie. When the famous battle began

six months later, Perry was aboard Lawrence , his flagship. He was soon engaged in a tremendous battle with the main strength of

the British line. However, for more than two hours Commander Jessie Elliott kept Niagara well removed from the action, content

to lob shots at his adversary with two 12-pound long guns. After two-and-three-quarter hours of murderous gunfire, Lawrence was

"one confused heap of horrid ruins." Perry gave up his flagship and was rowed to Niagara where he continued to attack. Two-and-

a-half hours later, Perry returned to the shattered Lawrence , went to his cabin, and penned a quick message to General Harrison:

"We have met the enemy and they are ours — Two Ships, two Brigs, one Schooner and one Sloop."

After the War of 1812, Niagara served as a station ship in Erie until 1820. Then she was scuttled in Misery Bay. For the centen-

nial of the battle, Erie citizens raised the hulk and rebuilt the ship. Another restoration began in 1931, but the Depression

slowed progress. The hull was completed in 1943 and masts installed in 1963. By 1988, Niagara was again deteriorating. The

Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission hired Melbourne Smith, a world-famous naval architect, to redesign the

entire ship and direct construction. Niagara was relaunched on the battle’s 175th anniversary. Only a few original timbers

remain in the hull, and these are used in non-structural locations. The reconstruction was completed in 1990.

The new Niagara hull length is 123 feet with a 32 foot beam. Draft at the stern is 10 feet 3 inches, and she displaces 297 tons.

The tons burthen (old measure) is 492 60/95 tons. In 1813, the ship carried 155 officers and men, and was armed with eigh-

teen 32-pounder carronades and two long 12-pounders. Today, 40 professionals and volunteers man Niagara and four replica

carronades comprise her ordnance.

Niagara is operated by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission, with the assistance of the Flagship Niagara

League, a non-profit associate group. The ship sails daily and serves as the Commonwealth’s goodwill ambassador. She is the

centerpiece of a new maritime museum in Erie, Pennsylvania.

For more history on Niagara and the War of 1812, refer to the bibliography.

T ABLE OF C

ABLE OF C ONTENTS

ONTENTS

14.

Eyebolts and Cleats

Brief History

Introduction and Credits

15.

Cannons

16.

Rudder and Tiller

Before You Begin

Tools Needed To Start Construction

17.

Boat Davits and Slides

18.

Ship’s Boats

22,23

How to Work With Plans And Parts

6,7

Painting and Staining The Model

8,9

19.

Ship’s Name

20.

Hammock Rails and Stanchions

Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull

21.

Channels

22.

Sweeps

Bending Wood

Center Keel Assembly

Stage 6: Mast and Spar Construction

Installing the Keel, Stem, and Sternpost

Cutting the Rabbet

Shaping and Tapering Masts and Spars

Building and Installing the Masts

24,25

Installing the Bulkheads

10,11

Installing the Stern Blocks

and Transom Framing

Building and Installing the Bowsprit,

Jibboom, Flying Jibboom, Spritsail Yard,

and Dolphin Striker

Installing the Bow Filler Blocks

25,26

4. Building the Yards

Covering the Mast Slots

Installing the Waterway and Planksheer

Building the Spanker Gaff and Boom

10.

Installing the Knightheads

and Forward Timberheads

Stage 7: General Rigging and Sailmaking

27,28

Rigging Options

11.

Installing the Main Rail and Chock Rail

12.

Framing Around the Gunports and Sweep Ports

Rigging Plans

Rigging Line and Block Sizes

Stage 2: Planking the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull

Treating the Lines

Belaying Pins, Cleats and Their Lines

1. Getting Started

Planking Battens and Belts

Rigging Tools

Blocks, Hearts, Bullseyes, and Deadeyes

Planking Butts

Spiling

Sailmaking

29,30

Rigging the Model with No Sails or Furled Sails

Fastening the Planks

6. Outer Hull Planking

16,17

Stage 8: Installing Standing Rigging

Ceiling (Inboard) Planking

Deck Planking

Shrouds

Backstays

31,32

Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Stucture

Fore and Aft Stays

32,33

Bowsprit Rigging

Stage 4: Mounting the Hull

Footropes, Fixed Lifts, and Cranelines

Mounting Board with Two Pedestals

Launching Ways

Stage 9: Installing Sails and Running Rigging

Fore Staysails (Head Sails)

34,35

Stage 5: Adding Hull Details

Main Staysails

Spanker

Locating Deck Fittings and Structures

Deck Structures

Fore and Main Course Yards

Fore and Main Topsail Yards

Hatches, and Grating

Boarding Ladders

Fore and Main Topgallant and Royal Yards

Spritsail Yard

Galley Stack

Capstan

Miscellaneous Rigging

Fife Rails and Riding Bitts

8. Pin Rails

Final Touches

Bibliography

Bilge Pumps

10.

Scuppers

Scale Conversion Table

Rigging Line Diameters

11.

Catheads and Anchors

12.

Mooring Cleats

Other Kits from Model Shipways

39, 40

13.

Hawse Pipes

Instruction Manual

U.S. Brig

Niagara

1813 –1990

Plans and Instructions

by Ben Lankford

Model by William Hitchcock

Model Shipways developed the Niagara kit in 1996. Plans are based on the 1990 reconstruction drawings,

research sketches, and specifications prepared and supplied by the designer, naval architect Melbourne Smith,

International Historical Watercraft Society, Annapolis, Maryland. Many as-built features deviating from the

plans are incorporated. These are based on visits to the brig and photographs. In addition to providing invalu-

able design information, Smith reviewed Model Shipways’ plans for accuracy.

Modern features, such as engines and a housing over the exhaust system, are not included to maintain Niagara’s

1813 configuration.

Photo Courtesy

of Melbourne Smith

Hollywood, FL 33020

Before You Begin

Niagara is a beautiful, interesting ship and makes a splendid model. Assembling the plank-on-bulkhead hull develops an understanding

of how real ships are built, while laser-cut parts assure an accurate shape. The kit contains more than 150 laser-cut wood parts.

Although britannia, brass, and wood fittings facilitate construction, many require final finishing prior to installation. This is especially

true for the britannia castings and is discussed later.

Take your time building this model. It has a fair amount of detail and small parts. Furthermore, the rigging is fairly complicated. Complete one

stage before moving to the next. When things go awry, consider doing them over. A second attempt usually surpasses the first. Practice does

make perfect.

Tools Needed To Start Construction

The following items are recommended. Those who have modeled before may have their favorites.

A. Knives and Saws

1. Hobby knife

2. #11 blades

3. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw

H. Sandpaper

1. Fine and medium grit

garnet or #100 to #200

aluminum oxide

2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper

Note: White or woodworker’s glue in yellow or

tan will suffice for most of the model. Five-minute

epoxy provides extra strength for affixing fittings.

Cyanoacrylates, such as Kroxx, Jet, or Zap,

produce quick adhesion. For most applications,

the medium viscosity, gap-filling variety is best.

The thin type is recommended for filling a narrow

crack and tacking bulkheads to the keel or

planking to the bulkheads.

B. Files

1. Set of needle files

I. Sail cloth

Light weave cotton or linen cloth for

sails. Model Expo sells a suitable

cotton cloth.

C. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Wooden spring-type clothes pins

(craft shops have small versions)

3. #16 and #33 rubber bands

J. Finishing

1. Paintbrushes

a. Fine point for details

b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull

D. Carving Tool s

Small woodcarving set, or individual

gouges and chisels for carving keel

rabbets, bow and stern filler blocks,

ship’s boats, and tapering the stem

and rudder.

K. Supplies

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. Stains and varnish

4. White (polyvinyl acetate or PVA) or

woodworker’s glue (aliphatic resin)

5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is

Super Glue)

6. Five-minute epoxy

7. Wood filler

E. Sharpening Stone

Keeps tools razor sharp.

F. Boring Tools

1. #60 to #80 miniature bits

2. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" bits

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small, fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. round nose

b. flat nose

5. Small bench vise

6. Soldering iron or torch

a. solder

b. flux

7. Sewing thread for seizing

(other rigging in kit)

a. black

b. tan

8. Beeswax block

(for treating rigging lines)

9. 1/2" or 3/4" wide masking tape

10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire

and strip metal)

BELFRY AT BOW

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