kitchen-cabinet.pdf

itchen Cabinet

Does anyone ever have enough kitchen cabinets? Here is one you can build for your

kitchen with just a modest knowledge of woodworking techniques. It contains two good-sized

drawers above, extra storage space below, and a wooden countertop. Place it against a wall, or

use it as a free-standing island. The

finished cabinet is 25 inches deep, 37

inches wide, and 37-1/2 inches tall.

This project is a little more advanced than

many of the others and requires you to

make several dadoes. You can avoid some

of the dadoes, by purchasing pre-made

cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Step-by-

step instructions for the doors and drawer

fronts are included if you want to make

them yourself.

Materials List

Lumber:

• 1 sheet ¾” plywood, 4’ x 8’*

• ½ sheet ¾” plywood, 4’x 4’*

• 1 piece ¼” clear plywood, 2’ x 2’

• 41 linear feet 1 x 4 pine*

• 5 linear feet 1 x 1 pine

• 1 piece Laminated 1 x 4 pine, 24” x

36”

• (OR 21 linear feet 1 x 4 pine)

• 2 drawer fronts, 5” x 13-1/2”

• 2 cabinet doors, 23-1/2” x 13-1/2”

(OR, to make your own doors and drawer fronts:

• 16 linear feet 1 x 2 pine*

• 4 sq. ft. ¼” plywood*

• 16 linear feet decorative molding, ½” wide x ¼” thick

Hardware:

• 1 lb. 3d finishing nails

• small wire brads

• 4 cabinet door hinges*

• 2 sets of drawer guides and rollers

• 2 drawer pulls

Special Tools and Techniques:

• web clamp

• 2 or 3 bar clamps (optional)

• dadoes

• miters

*See “Notes on the Materials,” below.

Cutting List

Code

Description

Qty.

Material

Dimensions

A Cabinet Side

2 ¾” plywood

23-1/2” x 36-3/4”

B Cabinet Back

1 ¾” plywood

34” x 36-3/4”

C Cabinet Shelf

2 ¾” plywood

23” x 34-1/2”

D Back Support

1 1 x 4 pine

34” long

E Top Rail

1 1 x 4 pine

35-1/2” long

F Side Stile

2 1 x 4 pine

30-1/4’ long

G Center Rail

1 1 x 4 pine

28-1/2” long

H Upper Center Stile

1 1 x 4 pine

4” long

Lower Center Stile

1 1 x 4 pine

22-3/4” long

J Bottom Base

1 1 x 4 pine, ripped 35-1/2” long

K Shelf Trim

4 1 x 1 pine

12-1/2” long

L Cabinet Top

1 Laminated pine

23-1/2” x 35-1/2”

M Long Top Trim

2 1 x 4 pine, ripped 37” long

N Short Top Trim

2 1 x 4 pine, ripped 25” long

O Drawer Front/Back

4 1 x 4 pine

12” long

P Drawer Side

4 1 x 4 pine

20” long

Q Drawer Bottom

2 ¼” plywood

11” x 20”

Notes on the Materials

If you want a natural finish on your cabinet, you need to buy stain-grade plywood, which is more

expensive. Otherwise, purchase paint-grade materials for all of the plywood specified. If you

opt for stain-grade plywood, make sure to choose wood with a matching grain for all of the parts

specified in pine in this materials list.

The top of the cabinet is constructed of laminated 1 x 4 boards. Most building-supply stores sell

sections of pine that have already been laminated. If you want to laminate the boards yourself,

you need 21 linear feet of 1 x 4 pine and at least two bar clamps.

To attach the doors, I used a decorative semi-concealed hinge. The visible side is attached to the

cabinet and the concealed side is attached to the back of the cabinet door. Other styles are also

available

Constructing the Cabinet Frame

1. Cut two cabinet sides (A) from ¾”-thick plywood according to the dimensions given in

Figure 1

2. Cut one cabinet back (B) from ¾”-thick plywood according to the dimensions given in

Figure 2.

3. Cut two cabinet shelves (C) from ¾”-thick plywood, each measuring 23 x 34-1/2”.

4. Inspect each face of the two cabinet sides (A), and choose the better ones to face outward

on the finished cabinet. On the inner faces of the two cabinet sides (A) and the cabinet

back (B), cut two dadoes, each ¾”-wide and ¼” deep, at the heights indicated in Figures 1

and 2 . These provide support for the shelves (C).

5. Assemble the two sides (A), back (B), and two shelves (C), as shown in Figure 3 . Note that

the shelves (C), slide into the dadoes. Check to make sure that all of the parts are square

and level. Use glue and 3-penny finishing nails spaced about 5 inches apart to secure the

pieces together, and fasten a web clamp around the assembly for added strength. Leave the

cabinet clamped overnight. (If you are unsure about how to use clamps for this assembly,

consult “Tips and Techniques” on our home page.

Figure 2

6. Cut one 34”-long back support (D) from 1 x 4 pine. Measure and draw a line 4 inches

down from the top across the cabinet back (B). Nail and glue the back support (D) to both

sides (A) and to the back (B). Place one nail every 6 inches. This strengthens the cabinet

and is used later to brace the metal drawer glides that support the drawers.

Adding the Rails and Stiles

The front of the cabinet consists of rails

(horizontal members) ad stiles (vertical

members). These members fulfill two

functions: they support the cabinet doors, and

they form the finished front. A diagram of

their placement is shown in Figure 4 . It is

very important that you install each of the

stiles and rails so that they are all exactly

square, or your drawers and cabinet doors will

not fit properly.

Figure 3

1. Cut one 35-1/2”-long top rail (E) from 1

x 4 pine. Using glue and two finishing

nails on each end, attach the top rail (E)

flush with the top edges of the cabinet

sides (A), as shown in Figure 4.

2. Cut two side stiles (F) from 1 x 4 pine, each 30-1/4” long, and attach them to the cabinet

sides (A) below the top rail (E). Use glue and 3-penny finishing nails, spacing the nails

about 6 inches apart. As shown in Figure 4 , the stiles should be flush with the outer edges.

3. Cut one 28-1/2”-long center rail (G) from 1 x 4 pine, and attach it 4 inches below the top

rail (E), between the two side stiles (F). After applying glue, toenail the center rail (G) into

the side stiles (F) using two finishing nails on each end.

4. From 1 x 4 pine, cut one 4—long upper

center stile (H) and one 22-3/4”-long

lower center stile (I).

5. Attach the upper center stile (H)

between the top rail (E) and the center

rail (G), as shown in Figure 4 . Apply

glue, and toenail the center stile (H) into

the top rail (E) and the center tail (G),

placing two finishing nails at each end.

The lower center stile (I) is attached to

each of the shelves (C). Make certain

that both of the shelves (C) are perfectly

level in the center. Use glue and two

finishing nails to attach the lower center

stile (I) to each of the shelves (C). Glue

and toenail the lower center stile (I) to the center rail (G).

Figure 4

6. Cut a 35-1/2” length of 1 x 4 pine. Rip the length to 3 inches in width, and attach the

resulting bottom base piece (J) across the bottom edge of the assembled cabinet so that it

covers the raw, bottom edges of the cabinet sides (A), as shown in Figure 4 . To secure the

attachment, first glue all of the exposed joints. Then use two 3-penny finishing nails to

toenail the bottom base piece (J) to the lower center stile (H). Next, with two finishing nails

on each end, attach the bottom base piece (J) to the edges of the cabinet sides (A). Finally,

nail through the lower cabinet shelf (C) into the bottom base piece with finishing nails

placed about 6 inches part.

7. Cut four shelf trim pieces (K) from 1 x pine, each 12-1/2” long. Use glue and finishing

nails placed every 6 inches to attach the shelf trim (K) to the exposed fronts of each of the

shelves (C) between the stiles (F and I).

Making the Top

1. If you purchased material already laminated, trim the piece to 23-1/2 x 35-1/2 inches to

make the cabinet top (L). Then skip down to Step 4.

2. To do the lamination yourself cut seven lengths of 1 x 4 pine, each 35-1/2” long. Before

gluing the wood lengths together, it is a good idea to rip a minuscule amount from each

edge to ensure a solid bond in the lamination process. Then spread glue on the adjoining

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