200006_48_Kitchen_Island.pdf

Kitchen island

kitchen but you also need floor space so

everyone can help wash-up. This island bench is

the solution. It has a laminated benchtop solid

enough for the heaviest task and it rolls away

when not required.

Here’s how

Step 1 Prepare the legs (A) by

squaring lines 15 and 55mm from

the top and 75 and 115mm from the

bottom on two adjacent faces. Set a

dowelling jig to drill 10mm diameter

by 23mm deep dowel holes at the

centre of each line. Measure 335 and

375mm from the top on the inside

side faces and bore dowel holes for

intermediate side rails.

What you will need

Step 2 Measure 15 and 55mm

across the end grain of the long rails

(B) and square across. Bore dowel

holes at the midpoint of each line.

Apply a little glue to the dowel holes

in the sides of the legs with four

holes; spread glue with a nail and

push in dowels. Apply glue to holes

in the long rails, then join to

legs. Assemble both front and back

frames. Clamp until set.

Item Part Size Material

A Legs (4) 70 x 70 x 770mm Pine

B Long rails (4) 70 x 35 x 1220mm Pine

C Bottom shelf (2 to make 1) 240 x 19 x 1325mm Pine

D Side rails (6) 70 x 35 x 360mm Pine

E Side shelves (2) 290 x 19 x 465mm Pine

F Dividers (4 to make 2) 240 x 19 x 625mm Pine

G Top side cleats (2) 30 x 19 x 360mm Pine

H Top centre cleats (2) 30 x 30 x 395mm Pine

I Side panels (2) 360 x 710 x 5mm Plywood

J Back panel 1220 x 710 x 5mm Plywood

K Horizontal beading (total) 42 x 12 x 210mm Maple

L Vertical beading (total) 12 x 12 x 4200mm Maple scotia

M Castor blocks (4, see step 9) 70 x 60 x 40mm Pine

N Benchtop 630 x 35 x 1535mm Laminated

brushbox

A laminated brushbox top will cost about $345. You will also need a set of 75mm

heavy-duty castors (Fallshaw brand, two with brakes), they’ll cost around $80;

about forty 10mm dowels; tea towel hooks. Total cost about $630.

Step 3 To make wide boards

for the bottom shelf and dividers

(C, F), join two 240mm-wide boards

by partly driving small nails about

200mm apart into the edge of one

board. Nip off nail heads. Apply glue

along both edges, cramp the two

halves together ensuring they remain

aligned. Alternatively, use dowels or

a biscuit joiner. As the unit is to be

painted, you could also use sheet

MDF to avoid edge-joining the timber.

Splash out on a stunning benchtop –

here it’s beautiful brushbox

Step 4 Cut the main shelf (C),

making sure it is 480mm deep. In

the back corners cut out a 52.5mm

square notch to fit around the legs. As

the front overhangs the rail, the front

notch is 70 x 52.5mm wide. Measure

290 and 309mm from each end and

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This roll-away island bench provides oodles of kitchen storage

Y ou can’t have enough bench space in the

Kitchen island

40mm from the front. Set a router

to run along a batten to cut two 19 x

5mm deep grooves parallel to the ends

and stopped 40mm from the front.

Step 7 Rip dividers (F) to a width of

465mm. Cut a 70 x 35mm notch in both

top corners and a 30 x 5mm notch in the

bottom front corner. Fit into groove in

bottom shelf, align back edges. Screw in

place. Ensure shelves are level.

Step 10 Sand surfaces and round

sharp edges. Paint with an undercoat

and two gloss topcoats. Round top and

edges of benchtop (N) and paint with

three coats of gloss polyurethane on all

sides. To fit to cabinet, lay benchtop

face down on a blanket; place cabinet

upside on top. Drill 2mm oversize holes

through top cleats to miss glue joints in

the timber. Screw on from the underside

with non-countersunk screws and a

washer to allow for timber expansion

and contraction. Add hooks for tea

towels as required.

Step 5 Bore dowel holes in ends of

side rails (D) as you did on long rails.

Join front and back frames with three

rails at one end without drawing the

joints fully together. Fit the bottom

rail at the other end, then install the

shelf. Fit the remainder of the rails and

draw the front and back together using

cramps. Reinforce joints by driving

screws at a skew from rails into legs.

Step 8 Cut top side and centre cleats

(G, H) and screw to side rails and

dividers. Cut out side and back panels

(I, J); tack to rails and edges of small

shelves and dividers. Nail horizontal

beading (K) to bottom edges of sides

and back. Add vertical beading (L).

Step 9 Invert cabinet and trial-fit the

castors. If their fixing plates are not fully

supported by the legs, cut castor blocks

(M) to suit. Glue and screw to legs and

side rails. Screw on castors.

Step 6 Cut two 52.5mm square

notches in the outside corners of the

side shelves (E). Screw the shelves to

the middle side rails.

Cramp with clamps

As an alternative to holding

dowelled assemblies with sash

cramps until glue sets, try this

inexpensive idea. Screw a 75

x 50mm batten to one end of

a worktop to act as a stop for

one end of the frame. Screw

a similar piece 20mm from

the frame at other end. Cut a

couple of wedges and gently

drive them between frame and

batten to tighten the joint.

A Use a dowelling jig to make sure

dowel holes are accurately drilled.

B If you’re short on cramps,

use wedges to hold frame while

the glue sets.

C Leave the frame joints

slightly open while dropping in

the bottom shelf.

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