OFFICE_CREDENZA_2.pdf

Office Credenza

The cross grain walnut top with black inlay is the signature of a high-

end custom piece, as are the solid-maple dovetailed drawers on full-

extension slides. As with the main desk, we used walnut-veneer MDF

(medium-density fiberboard). Order the stock "sequence matched and

numbered" so that you can piece panels together to the best effect.

Because veneer matching plays a major part in the overall appearance

of the finished piece, it's important to carefully plan your material use

with this detail in mind.

The Drawer Case

Begin by cutting the case parts (E1, E2, G) to size. Cut edge band strips

(F) from solid walnut and glue them to the front edges of the panels. Use

a router with an edge guide to cut the rabbet along the back edge of the

exposed side of the base.

Lay out the joining-plate slots in the case parts and use a plate joiner to

cut the slots. Apply glue to the slots and joining plates, install the plates

and assemble the case. Use bar or pipe clamps to pull the joints tight

and check that the assembly is square by comparing opposite diagonal

measurements. Adjust the clamps if necessary and allow the glue to

cure for at least 30 minutes before removing the clamps. Cut the 1/4-in.

back panel (I) to size, bore pilot holes and install it on the case with 3/4-

in. No. 5 fh wood screws.

Cut solid-maple stock to size for the base (A, B1, B2, C), and cut the

3/4-in. plywood base top panel (D) to size. Join the maple pieces to the

panel and to each other at the corners with 4d finishing nails and glue.

Make sure that the miter joint on the exposed corner is tight. Set and fill

the nail holes. When the filler is completely dry, sand the base smooth

with 120-, 180- and 220-grit sandpaper. Bore pilot holes in the base top

and fasten the base to the case.

The Legs And Rail

Cut walnut panels to size for the legs (O). Apply glue to a pair of panels

for each leg, then clamp them together until the glue sets. Cut a walnut

with 120-, 180- and 220-grit sandpaper. Bore pilot holes in the base top

and fasten the base to the case.

The Legs And Rail

Cut walnut panels to size for the legs (O). Apply glue to a pair of panels

for each leg, then clamp them together until the glue sets. Cut a walnut

edge band (F) for each leg assembly. Apply glue to one of the strips and

the front edge of one of the legs, then clamp the strip in place. Repeat

for the other leg. After the glue sets, scrape off any excess. Use a router

and chamfer bit to cut the bevels along the front edges of the legs.

Cut the back rail to size and glue the walnut edge band (R) along its

bottom edge. Lay out and cut the joining-plate slots in the ends and top

edge of the rail and also in the leg panels and inner case side. Set these

parts aside until the top is complete.

The Top

Cut the panels to size for the desktop. The top is formed by sandwiching

together two pieces of 3/4-in. stock. The grain of the top panel (S) runs

across the top, so the upper panels must be joined in the center. Pay

close attention to matching the grain. Since the bottom panel (T) is not

visible, cut it in one piece with the grain running along its length.

Use the router with a slotting cutter to cut the spline grooves in the

mating edges of the top panels. Cut a maple spline to fit the groove,

apply glue to the grooves, edges and spline and assemble the panel.

Pull the joint tight with clamps and allow the glue to set. Spread glue on

the desktop panels and stack them together with all edges perfectly

flush. Use enough clamps and cauls to distribute even pressure across

the top. Let the glue set for at least 1 hour.

Use a router and edge guide to cut the rabbet around the front and ends

of the top. Trim the black inlay strips (V1, V2) to size. Since the strips

come in 3-ft. lengths, there will be joints along the front edge of the top.

To keep these seams hidden, use 45 degree scarf joints instead of butt

joints. Apply glue to the rabbet and install the inlay strips. Use masking

tape spaced 2 in. apart to hold the inlay while the glue sets. After 30

minutes, remove the tape and scrape off excess glue.

Cut the solid-walnut edge (W1, W2) to size from 2-in. stock. Spread glue

on both the panel edge and one of the solid edge pieces, and clamp the

piece in place. Be sure to keep the top surfaces of the veneered panel

and walnut edging perfectly flush. Repeat the process for each edge.

Assembly

Lay out the joining-plate slots on the bottom side of the desktop and use

the plate joiner to cut the slots. Sand the desk parts with 120-, 180- and

220-grit sandpaper.

Spread glue in the joining-plate slots at the ends of the back rail and in

the mating slots at the case and right leg. Spread glue on the joining

plates, install the plates and join the rail to the case and leg. Use bar

clamps to pull the joints tight. While the glue sets, bore and countersink

pilot holes through the left case side to attach the left leg and fasten the

leg with screws.

the mating slots at the case and right leg. Spread glue on the joining

plates, install the plates and join the rail to the case and leg. Use bar

clamps to pull the joints tight. While the glue sets, bore and countersink

pilot holes through the left case side to attach the left leg and fasten the

leg with screws.

Apply glue to the slots in the desktop and on the top edges of the base

parts. Spread glue on the joining plates, install them and place the top on

the base. Be sure to use pads under the clamp jaws when pulling the

joint tight.

Drawer Construction

Cut maple to size for the drawer parts. We used a Leigh dovetail jig and

a router to cut the drawer joints. If you use another type of jig, or decide

to cut the joints by hand, the layout may vary. Follow the directions that

come with your jig for cutting the joints.

Use a dado blade in the table saw to cut the drawer-bottom grooves in

the other drawer parts. Cut the bottoms from 1/4-in. maple or birch

plywood. Sand the inside surfaces of each drawer part with 120-, 180-

and 220-grit sandpaper, but be careful to not sand the joint surfaces or

the dovetails will not fit properly.

Use a small brush to spread glue on the dovetail-joint surfaces, then

assemble one of the sides to a front and back. Slide the drawer bottom

into position, then join the remaining side. If the joints fit properly, you will

not need to clamp the drawer together. Just compare opposite diagonal

measurements to be sure that the drawer is square and set it aside until

the glue sets. When the glue is fully cured, sand the exterior of all

drawers.

Cut the drawer faces from a single walnut panel so the grain will run

continuously when the drawers are in place. Number the faces on the

back side so that you can keep them in the proper order and apply

walnut-veneer tape on all edges. The tape comes with hot-melt glue

applied to its back side so you can use a household iron to adhere it.

Sand the drawer faces, then attach them to the drawer boxes with 1-in.

No. 8 screws. Note that the position of the bottom face, relative to the

drawer box, is different from that of the other faces. Install the drawer

slides according to the instructions that come with them. Bore pilot holes

for the drawer pulls and install them with the appropriate screws.

Remove the drawers and sand the credenza to eliminate any scuffs and

scratches and thoroughly remove all dust. Wipe all surfaces with a tack

cloth.

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