Square Planter Box.pdf

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Decorating a garden is much like decorating a room in your
home-it's nice to have pieces that are adaptable enough that
you can move them around occasionally and create a
completely new look. After all, most of us can't buy new
furniture every time we get tired of the way our living rooms
look. And we can't build or buy new garden furnishings every
time we want to rearrange the garden.
That's one of the reasons this trio of planter boxes works so
well. in addition to being handsome especially when flowers are
bursting out of them they're incredibly adaptable. You can
follow these plans to build a terrific trio of planter boxes that
will go well with each other and will complement most gardens,
patios, and decks. Or you can tailor the plans to suit your
needs. For instance, you may want three boxes that are exactly
the same size. Or you might want to build several more and use
them as a border that encloses a patio or frames a terraced
area.
Whatever the dimensions of the boxes, the basic construction
steps are the same. If you decide to alter the designs, take a
little time to figure out the new dimensions and sketch plans.
Then devise a new cutting list and do some planning so you can
make efficient use of your wood. To save cutting time, clamp
together parts that are the same size and shape, and cut them
as a group (called gang cutting). When your planter boxes have
worn out their welcome in one spot, you can easily move them
to another, perhaps with a fresh coat of stain and new
plantings. You can even use the taller boxes to showcase
outdoor relief sculptures-a kind of alfresco sculpture gallery.
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Other related projects in this chapter include:
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This planter is large enough to hold a potted shrub, mixed
flowers or even a miniature herb garden. The "tiered"
construction process makes it both easy to build and sturdy
enough for years of use.
Everything You Need:
Materials:
2 1/2" gold-colored deck screws (120)
10d casing nails (10)
Directions: Box Planter
CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS
Quantity
Lumber
8
2 × 4" × 6'
cedar
3
2 × 2" × 6' cedar
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Cutting List
Key Part
Dimension Pcs. Material
A
Side
1 1/2 × 3 1/2 ×
16 1/2"
24 Cedar
B Stringer
1 1/2 × 1 1/2 ×
21 1/2"
4 Cedar
C
Bottom
cleat
1 1/2 × 1 1/2 ×
12"
4 Cedar
D Bottom
1 1/2 × 3 1/2 ×
14 3/4"
3 Cedar
E
Frame
1 1/2 × 3 1/2 ×
18 3/4"
4 Cedar
F Top cleat
1 1/2 × 1 1/2 ×
13 1/4"
4 Cedar
Note: Measurements reflect the actual thickness of
dimensional lumber.
This planter is assembled upside down. The rows of side pieces, or
tiers, are constructed independently, then stacked on top of each
other and fastened together from the inside through the stringers.
1. Measure, mark and cut the side pieces (A) to length from 2 × 4"
cedar stock.
2. Drill a pair of 1/8" pilot holes through each side piece, about 3/4"
from one end.
3. Form each of the six tiers by screwing four side pieces together
with deck screws driven through the pilot holes.
4. Measure, mark and cut the stringers (B) to length.
5. Lay the first tier on a flat work surface, then position a stringer
upright in one corner using a scrap of 2 × 2" lumber as a spacer to
raise the stringer off the work surface.
6. Drill 1/8" pilot
holes and attach the
stringer to the tier
with 2 1/2" deck
screws. Attach the
other three stringers
in the same fashion
(photo A).
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7. Add the remaining tiers one at a time, positioning each tier so the
butt joints do not line up with those of the previous tier. Drill 1/8"
pilot holes and attach each tier to the stringers with deck screws as
you go.
8. Measure, mark and cut the bottom cleats (C) to length from 2 × 2
" cedar stock.
9. With the planter box still upside down, position a bottom cleat
between two stringers, so the edge of the cleat is flush with the edge
of the side.
10. Drill angled 1/8"
pilot holes, and attach
the bottom cleat to
the side using deck
screws. Attach the
remaining bottom
cleats in the same
fashion (photo B).
11. Measure, mark and cut bottom pieces (D) to length from 2
× 4" cedar stock.
12. Turn the box assembly right-side-up, and set the bottom
pieces into the planter so they rest on the cleats and are
evenly spaced.
13. Attach the bottom pieces by drilling pilot holes and driving
deck screws through the bottom pieces into the cleats.
14. Measure, mark and cut the frame pieces (E) from 2 × 4"
cedar stock, mitering the ends at 45°.
15. Dry-fit the frame pieces together, with the miter joints
tight. Join the frame pieces with casing nails.
16. Cut top cleats (F) to size from 2 × 2" cedar stock. Position
the cleats on the assembled frame so the edges are flush with
the inside edge of the framing pieces. Drill pilot holes through
the cleats and attach by driving deck screws through the cleats
into the frame.
17. Position the frame on the planter so the cleats fit tightly
inside box. Attach the frame by drilling pilot holes and driving
deck screws through the inside face of the top cleats.
18. Soften the corners and edges of the box planter with a
rasp, then apply a finish of your choice; our planter is
protected with a coat of clear sealant-preservative.
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