Miniature Mantle Clock.pdf

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Miniature Mantle Clock
ometimes, when I am sitting alone in my workshop,
Itake up one or more pieces of choice wood and feast
my eyeson thevarious colors that makeupthe character
of thegrain.Tohold thewoodup to the lightand see the
way thegrainshimmers andglows, to seehow twopieces
of wood lookwhen they are held side by side—and then
to imagine how the wood might be used for a special
project—these are unique quality-time experiences that
should not be missed.
This project draws its inspiration from one of my alone -
inthe workshop musings.The problem was how to bring
together three relatively small pieces of choice exotic
wood—ascrap of ebony salvaged from an old long-gone
piece of furniture, a sliver of silver sycamore veneer left
overfrom a marquetryproject, and a short lengthofdark
woodthat I've been usingto prop openthe door. Anyway,
I tossed all sorts of ideas around in my head—a small
piece of laminated jewelry? a turning? a handle for a knife?
a drawer pull? And thenitcametome . . . why not make
asmall clock case!
MAKING THE CLOCK CASE
First things first. Before you do anything else, you need
tosearchout a miniaturewatch-clock and a Forstnerdrill
bit sized to fit. For example, as my clock (described in
the catalog asa "watch-clock miniature suitableforblock
and drilled recess mounting") measures slightly under
1 5/16" diameter across the span of the back and about
1/4" in depth, I reckoned that I needed a drill size of 1
3/8".
When youhave obtained the clock-watch and thedrill
size to suit, take your chosen pieces of wood and plane
andsandthe mating faces down toa true finish. This
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done, smear white PVA glue on the mating faces and
clamp up.
Having waited for the glue to cure, set the compassto
a radius of 1 1/4", spike it on the center veneer at a point
about 1 3/8" down fromtop-center, and then strike off a
2 1/2"-diameter half-circle. When you are happy with
the way the lines of the design are set out on the wood,
move to the band saw and cut out the curve that makes
the top of thecase.
Use a square to mark out the baseline, double-check
that it is absolutely true, and then cutoffthewastewith
a small-toothed backsaw. It's important that the baseline
is square to the center line of the block, so spend time
getting it right.
Whenyou are sure thatthe block sits square and true,
move to the drill press and bore out the recess for the
clock. Bore down to a depth of about 3/8".
Having bored out the recess, take a scrap of sandpaper
and rub down the inside of the recess, so that the clock-
watch is a tight pushfit.Ifnecessary, use a straightgouge
to cut a little scoop for the hand-setting knob that sticks
out at the side of clock case. When you have achieved a
good fit of the clock-watch in the recess, rub the whole
block down on a sheet of fine-grade abrasive paper. Fi-
nally, burnish the block with beeswax, slide the clock-
watch mechanismin place, and the project is finished.
SPECIAL TIP: LAPPING
The best way of rubbing the faces of the block down to
a smooth, true finishistouse a technique known as lap-
ping. Allyou doismount a sheet ofmedium-gradeabra-
sivepaper to a slabof1/2" - thick plywood sothatthe grit
side is uppermost. Then clamp the slab in place on the
bench, In use, the workpiece is rubbed in the direction
of the grain, backwards and forwards. The procedure is
rerunwithfinerand finer gradesof paper.
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STEP-BY-STEP STAGES
1 . pass radius to 1 1/4 " and strike off the arc that
makes the top of the case. Make sure that you spike the
compasspoint on the middle of thefine black laminate.
3. Having selected a Forstnerbitsized to fit the diame-
terof your clock, sink a recess to the appropriate
depth.The success of the project hinges on the hole being
perfectly placed, so spend time getting it right.
2. laving cut the curve on the band saw, run the faces of
the block down on a series of lapping boards. Work
through the grit sizes, from a medium-fine through a
super-line flour grade. Only work in the direction of
the grain, and be careful that you don't blur the sharp
corners.
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