Picture Frames.pdf

PICTURE FRAMES

Painted Pine Frames

Our first two frames are made from pine and

are great candidates for a paint finish. They

feature standard moldings available at well-

stocked home centers (below we give the

molding's reference number in addition to its

common name). For all the frames, it's best

to cut the rough materials about 2 or 3 in.

longer than necessary before ripping to width

or machining.

Frame 1 uses base cap molding (No. WM

166) and flat pine stock. Rip four 3/4 x 1-1/4-

in. pine pieces and glue lengths of 1/4 x 1-

5/8-in. lath to each. Place them face to face

with the edge of one piece flush with the

adjoining piece. Use spring clamps to hold

the assembly while the glue sets. Then,

spread glue on the back of the molding and

clamp it to the top of the lath (Photo 1). Make

sure that the outer edge of the molding

aligns with the flush edge of the flat-stock

assembly.

Next, cut the four laminated frame members

to size with a miter saw (Photo 2). Use a

small brush to spread glue on the mitered

ends and assemble the frame in a miter

clamp (Photo 3). Check that all corner joints

remain tight as you tighten the clamp. After

the glue has cured, remove the frame from

the clamp and drive small brads into the

corners to reinforce the joints.

Next, rip pieces of 1 x 2 to 1/2 in. thick and

miter them to fit around the perimeter of the

frame. Apply glue and clamp them to the

frame with spring clamps (Photo 4).

After gluing a 1/4-in.-thick lath to a 3/4-in. backer, add the molding to

the lath. Use spring clamps to apply pressure.

Use a miter saw to make the 45° cuts at both ends of each piece. Make

sure opposite pieces are the same length.

Spread glue on the mating surfaces and assemble the sides in a

frame clamp. Use brads to strengthen joints.

Cut banding strips of 1/2 x 1-1/2-in. pine to length with mitered ends.

Glue these to the outside of the frame.

Frame 2 features a panel molding (No. WM

8174) and a 5/8-in. half round (No. WM 123),

glued to 1 x 3 pine. After cutting the stock to

rough length, spread glue on the back of the

molding and use spring clamps to hold it to

the 1 x 3 until the glue sets. Keep the panel

molding flush to one edge and the half round

flush to the opposite edge. When the glue is

dry, use a dado blade in your table saw to

cut the rabbet along the inner edge of the 1 x

3 (Photo 5). Then, miter the frame stock to

exact length.

Since this frame is wider than the first, you

can use No. 0 joining plates to reinforce the

corners and eliminate the need for brads.

Mark centerlines for the plate slots in the

mitered ends of the frame stock and cut the

slots (Photo 6). Spread glue on the mitered

faces, in the plate slots and on the plates,

and assemble the pieces in the frame clamp

to pull the corners tight. After about 20

minutes, use a small chisel or putty knife to

remove any glue that has squeezed from the

joints.

To finish these painted frames, first lightly

sand with 150- and 220-grit sandpaper. Then

apply an aerosol spray finish, following the

manufacturer's instructions. We used Rust-

Oleum Hammered Gold (No. 7210) and

Hammered Silver (No. 7213) for our frames.

Frame 2 uses two moldings glued to 1 x 3 stock. Cut the frame rabbet

with a dado blade and table saw.

Reinforce the corners of wider frames with plate joints. Mark the

centerlines and cut slots for No. 0 plates.

Hardwood Frames

Another approach to building frames is to use

hardwood with either a clear or stained finish.

In each of the following designs, we've

combined different woods to create patterns

of contrasting colors and textures. After

building four oversize pieces of frame stock

for each design, use a dado blade or router

table to cut the 3/8-in.-wide frame rabbet on

the inner edge of each piece. Then, use a

miter saw to cut the pieces to precise length

and join the corners with plate joints.

Frame 3 is constructed of mahogany with

wenge inlay. Begin by ripping 13/16-in.

mahogany to 2-1/4 in. wide. Crosscut the

stock to rough length, then readjust the saw

blade and cut two 1/8-in.-deep kerfs in the

face of each piece. Use a band saw to rip 1/8

x 1/4-in. inlay strips of wenge. Run a bead of

glue into each saw kerf and press the inlay

strips into place. Use spring clamps to hold

them while the glue cures (Photo 7). When

the glue is dry, use a plane or sharp cabinet

scraper to trim the wenge flush to the

mahogany surface. Then, install a chamfer bit

in your router table and bevel the two top

edges of the frame stock.

Frame 3 has two inlaid strips. Cut the slots on a table saw. Glue the

strips in place and rout a chamfer on the edges.

Frames 4 and 5 are variations on the same

theme. For the first design, rip curly maple

strips to 1/2 x 1-1/16 in. and glue them to the

edges of a 13/16 x 1-1/2-in. walnut field

(Photo 8). Keep all pieces flush on the back

side of the frame.

For the second variation, rip 1/2-in.-thick

cherry stock to 2-1/2 in. wide. Use a router

table with a chamfer bit to shape all four

edges of the cherry, then rip the molded stock

into 15/16-in. strips (Photo 9). Glue these

strips to both edges of a bird's-eye maple

field.

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: