Pancernik Yamato.pdf

Digital Navy

Battleship

Yamato

With one of the best known names among naval enthusiasts, Yamato was the biggest battleship ever built. Together

with her sister ship Musashi, they were the last attempt by the Japanese navy to dominate the seas by classical means of

firepower and armor. The ship was laid down on 4 November 1937 and commissioned on 16 December 1941. Her

short carrier ended on April 7, 1945 during suicidal mission to defend Okinawa, and here

sinking was the final act of transition of naval warfare from gun power to airpower.

During her career the ship underwent a series of modernizations, the most extensive taking place in 1944, when her

two broadside 155mm turrets were removed, and replaced by six twin 127mm anti-aircraft mounts. Numerous smaller

aa guns were also installed, virtually changing the ship into a floating anti-aircraft battery. The model represents Yamato

in her original configuration in 1941.

Characteristics of Yamato after commissioning in 1941.

Length - 263.0m (862.8’)

Beam - 38.9m (127.6’)

Displacement - 72,809 tons (full)

Speed - 27.5 kts

Armour

side belt max - 410mm (16.14”)

main turrets max - 650mm (25.6”)

Armament

9 x 460mm (18.1”)

12 x 155mm (6.1”)

12 x 127mm (5”)

24 x 25mm MG

4 x 13mm MG

The model was designed in scale 1:250 and the primary reference was “The Battleship Yamato” by J. Skulski, from

the Anatomy of the Ship series.

It is not an overly complicated model, it is simply big, and the large number of sheets (44) is due to the size of the

ship, not large number of parts. The main guns of the ship, when fired, created such an enormous blast that all fragile

equipment - rangefinders, gun directors, observation posts - was housed in closed blast shields. In the “battle ready”

configuration, all the ship boats were stored in a closed compartment on the lower deck. All this made Yamato look

“empty” and makes for a relatively simple model. These instructions provide general directions for the construction of

the model and, combined with 60 assembly diagrams, should suffice to build a satisfactory model. The above referenced

book by J.Skulski is highly recommended as an additional source of information.

An exstensive photo journal of the test model construction is available at http://www.digitalnavy.com/Yambuild/

index.html. This model was built as a waterline (table) model, but the kit includes all the parts necessary to

build a full hull version.

Printing

Sheets #1 to #12 and sheet #29 can be printed on regular, thin, 24lb paper, as all of them have to be lami-

nated on cardboard to achieve a total thickness of 1mm. The quality of the printing is not crucial in this case since the

sheets contain mostly black and white line graphics. But it is very important (as with all other sheets) to keep proper

scale of the prints. In general, never use the “fit to paper” feature of your printer. All the sheets contain

“crop marks” at their corners which define the proper size of the “graphic box” - 260mm x 190mm. Print a test page

and check if the printing scale is correct. This size for the files was chosen so the sheets will print without cropping on

either US letter size (11”x8.5”) or international A4 paper.

Most of the remaining sheets should be printed on “card stock” or “cover stock” - a paper in the range of

110lb to 64lb. Experiments with different kinds of papers are highly encouraged, as different sizes of particular parts

may be easier to form with different card stock used. It is recommended though that major parts of the hull - sheets #17

to #22 and #26 to #29 - are printed on heavy, 110lb card stock as this will help to achieve the proper shape of the hull.

Sheets #38 and #43 should be printed on good quality, thin paper (24lb or less) as they contain mostly parts which

have to be tightly rolled or are very small.

Even though all the sheets (files) have 300dpi resolution, it is recommended that you print all of them using

“high quality printing” or “high quality paper” modes of your printer. In most cases, this means that your printer will print

with 600dpi or higher resolution, and this is very desirable.

The hull

All parts of the frame should be laminated on card board to the total thickness of 1mm and assembled accord-

ing to Fig.1. It is important to keep all the bulkheads square with parts 22 and 23. There are “tabs-like” elements on

parts 27 - these should be bent down at 70-90deg and their purpose is to make parts 27 stiffer between bulkheads -

see section in Fig.4. Before installing the main deck, assemble the airplane hangar (parts 30,31 and 32) and elements of

the boat deck (34, 34a to 34f ) - see Fig.2 and 3. Glue parts 37 to the underside of the main deck and install the deck

to the frame. Note that there is a sharp bend between deck elements 24b and 24c.

Start installing hull plating from parts 47 - the flat portion of the hull bottom. The parts should rest on longitu-

dinal frame reinforcements 26, with 3mm tabs extending outwards. Next install all double numbered (0-1to 0-

20) plates. Important - when cutting out the plates from the sheets, cut along inside of the part outline. All

those parts were designed with our Catepilar algorithm and represent a theoretically ideal outline of the parts. Since

cutting along curved lines inevitably introduces some “weaviness” to the part edges, small mistakes can add up and

create excess in the total length of hull plating. Control the placment of the parts by comparing with marks on parts 47.

Start assembly of the hull sides by installing parts 46. Note: there are two sheets numbered 28 - Sheet 28 and Sheet

28A. Use parts from sheet 28 for a waterline model, and parts from sheet 28A for a full hull model. Next, install parts

38 as they will be partially covered by part 44. There are some “alligments” points along the edge of the main deck that

will help in correct placement of the hull sides - the “break” in the deck for part 43 or sharp edge at the end of the “boat

hangar” for part 44. Take care in proper shaping of the ship bow - part 41. Finally - it is highly recommended that you

install propeller shafts, rudders (Fig.7), brackets 61 and boat crane rails 60 (Fig.8) before proceeding to superstructure

construction.

Superstructure

Drawings 9 to 19 illustrate assembly of the bridge structure. The most difficult part in this stage of construc-

tion is proper forming and installation of complex sponsons supporting 127mm aa gun mounts. I suggest install-

ing completed turrets 171 first and then assembling all the sponson (114, 115 and 116) before attaching the superstruc-

ture to the deck.

Gun barrels for the 127mm mounts should be made from 1mm wire according to templates on sheet 41.

Funnel

Figures 20 to 23 illustrate assembly of the funnel structure. There are numerous steam pipes attached to both sides of

the funnel and those should be made from soft 1mm (20 gage) wire according to template in Fig.22. Brackets 132a

supporting cover 132 are numbered 1 to 13 counting from the rear of the funnel. Brackets 1 and 13 are center line

brackets.

Armament

Assemble main gun turrets according to Fig.43 to 46. All three turrets are identical and can be placed in any one of

three positions on the deck. The elevation mechanism (parts 218 and 219) was designed to allow independent elevation

of each barrel. To achieve this, three tubes 219 have to be placed inside one tube 218. Part 219 should fit tightly inside

tube 218, but still be able to rotate. Next, each gun barrel has to be glued inside corresponding tube 219. Be careful not

to allow glue to get between parts 219 and 218. Finnaly, cylinder 218, with three barrels installed, can be glued to the

supporting brackets 217c. Now, each barrel can independently elevate in the range set by the oval openings in cylinder

219. It is also possible to install gun barrels directly into part 218, discarding parts 219, so all barrels elevate together.

Do not cut out oval openings in this case but a circular one, large enough to hold the barrel. In this configuration, part

218, with all barrels installed, has to be “trapped” inside the turret by face plate, roof and brackets 217c. Finally, you

can install barrels as fixed, for example in the case when you want to model the turrets with blast covers over gun ports

(like I did in turrets A and B on my test model).

To simulate blast covers, I used white toilet paper for its softness and high water absorption. Cut out an approximate

shape of the bag according to the template provided on sheet 36. The key to achieving a nice look for the covers is to

glue them from the inside of the turret face. This way one can achieve a sharp and accurate transition from a turret face

to the covers, almost impossible to realize any other way. With covers in place, I prepared a solution of white glue and

water and with a small brush gently applied the liquid to the covers. The paper soaks the solution and becomes a kind of

papier-mache that one can form to the desired shape - make sure that the end of the cover wraps tightly around the

barrel. After the white glue solution dries, the covers will form tough shells, with a nice, canvas-like apperance. You can

paint them, if necessary, with watercolors.

A simmilar procedure applies to the secondary, 155mm turrets, with the exception that these guns can only be made

to elevate together (or fixed with blast covers, for which templates are provided on sheet 40). Two turrets have small

white circles on parts 169a and 169h which mark mounting locations for the tripods of the aerial masts installed on two

centerline turrets. Both masts are almost identical, and can be made of thin wire according to the template provided on

sheet 43. The mast installed on rear 155mm turret is a bit lower than the one on the front turret.

Main mast

A large part of the main mast has to be scratch-build from wire. There are “in scale” drawings of the mast

elements provided on sheet 43 and assembly diagram Fig.27.

Equipment details

The assembly of numerous equipment details - range finders, observation posts, ground tackle, etc.- is illustrated on

attached diagrams. A fine jewelery chain can be used to simulate the anchor chain. Refer to Fig.60 for basic rigging

layout. Four observation planes are included. You can pose them with open or folded wing tips, placed on the rear deck

and in the hangar. Sheet 43 also provides templates for bow and stern flagstafs and aerial mast on airplane and boat

crane platform.

I recommend applying a protective coat of clear matte laquer to the ready model.

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