Australianwoodsmith62BlockPlane.pdf

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on-line extra

brass-body

on how to do this in the Work-

ing with Brass article on page

49 of issue No. 62.)

KnoB & Handle. After removing any

excess solder from the box joints

and cleaning up the brass body,

you’re ready to make the wooden

parts of the plane — the front knob

and the rear handle. Both of these

are made from glued up blanks.

You can cut the blanks to rough

shape based on the patterns pro-

vided. Then use rasps, iles, and

sandpaper to inish shaping these

pieces.

Brass Pin. The handle and knob

will get glued into the body of the

plane with epoxy. Before doing this

however, I added the brass cross

pin for the lever cap (see Figure 1).

This pin is installed by turning

the plane on its side and drill-

ing a 1 / 4 "-dia. hole through both

sides. Then after inserting the

pin, the ends are peened over to

rivet the pin in place. Then ile

the ends lush with the sides of

the plane. (This is covered in

2

DRILL1/4" - DIA. HOLE FOR

200

Block

80

1/8"(3.17mm) - THICK

50

6

42

Plane

178

a.

48

8

If you’ve already made the jack

plane featured on page 44 of Aus-

tralian woodsmith. 62, this block

plane will be a piece of cake. The

construction is very similar to the

jack plane, only simpler. (Take a

look at the exploded view draw-

ing below to see what I’m talking

about.)

Brass Body. Just like the jack plane,

the irst step in building the block

plane is to make the brass body

of the plane. I started by cutting

blanks for the sides and sole of the

plane from 1/8"(3.17mm)-thick

brass stock. Figure 2 shows the

dimensions for the blanks as

well as the layout for the box

joints. (You can also download

full-size patterns for the brass

parts of the plane, as well as the

knob and handle that are added

later.)NOTE-check the dimen-

sions on your download. The

printer that you use may distort

the template.

The box joints are cut on the

table saw, using a jig and a spe-

cial carbide-tipped blade that

is designed to cut non-ferrous

metals. Since the box joints on

this plane are the same size as

55

115

the box joints on the jack plane, you

can use the same jig to make them.

(Refer to page 52 in issue No. 62 for

more information on making and

using the box joint jig.)

Once you’ve cut the box

joints, go ahead and cut the

sides of the plane to shape on

the band saw. Then cut the

sole in two pieces to create the

mouth of the plane (see Figure

2). Now you’re ready to solder

the brass pieces together. (You

can ind detailed instructions

depth in the Working with Brass

article.)

When it comes to gluing the

knob and handle into the body of

the plane, no matter how neat you

try to be, you’ll probably wind up

with a little bit of epoxy squeeze-

out to clean up. You can scrape and

sand this off once it’s dry.

The blade will rest on the

handle, so you want to make

sure that the face of the handle is

lush with the bevelled edge of

the throat opening in the sole of

the plane. If it’s not, a small ile

and some sandpaper can ix the

problem.

The last step is to add the

blade and lever cap.

W

1

making the cap

1/4"

1/4" Whit

28mm

The lever cap is nothing more than

a hardwood wedge with a knob at

one end. The cap slips underneath

the cross pin in the body plane. By

tightening the knob, the edge of

the cap is forced down against

the blade, holding it in place.

The trick to making the

lever cap is to start with an

extra-long, squared-up blank

and drill all the holes irst.

Then you can taper the blank

to create the “wedge” shape

of the lever cap.

Start by drilling a counter-

bored hole for the T-nut (see

drawing at left). To create the

rounded groove in the front

of the lever cap for the brass

cross pin, drill a hole through

the edge of the blank.

Using a band saw, stand

the blank on edge and

cut the cap to its wedge

shape. Now just cut the

curved proile at the top

of the blank and sand it

smooth. Finally, add the

T-nut and knob.

!/4"

14mm

19mm DIA.

2mm DEEP

5mm

8mm DIA.

55

1/4"

1/4"

28mm LONG

Hardware

13

•(1) 1 / 8 "(3.17mm)x50mmFlatBrassBarStock(600mm)

•(1) 1 / 4 "(6.35mm)-dia.BrassRod(48mmlong)

•(1)StainlessSteelKnurledKnob(1/4"Whit)

•(1)1/4"-dia.WhitThreadedRod(28mmlong)

•(1)1/4"T-Nut

•(1)38mm-widePlaneBlade

11

25

2

70

38

www.australianwoodsmith.com.au

Australian Woodsmith

No. 62

www.australianwoodsmith.com.au

Australian Woodsmith

No. 62

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